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Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 83

post #2461 of 4151
8/31/12 at 11:20am
New PN60E7000 owner!! biggrin.gif
Very pleased with it. No buzz or anything wrong (that I can tell)
I used the Cnet's calibration.
I just changed the sharpness to 25.

I keep my tv offline. I use my PS3 for netflix ans such!

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post #2462 of 4151
8/31/12 at 3:24pm
So, I just received my "new" (used) PN60E7000 as well. And I ...want... to love it. I took a chance on the Amazon Warehouse deal for it. Budget price, used set. It is cosmetically perfect on the front with only a minor scratch on the back, not an issue.

However, mine is BUZZING. I have the buzz that emits straight from the panel. It is clearly audible when sitting directly in front of the TV, and greatly reduced as you move away from the center. Is this something that may reduce in time, or are there any settings to reduce it? I'm already watching it with the cnet configuration. It looks great, but the buzzing... it's too bad I like to sit in front of the TV when I watch it.

Since returning must be done via online RMA and shipping, I'd love to keep the TV and not go through the hassle, but before my 30 day window is up this has got to be mitigated.

On another note: how do I check the hours used on this set? I'm curious as to exactly how used it is.
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post #2463 of 4151
8/31/12 at 3:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reach View Post

So, I just received my "new" (used) PN60E7000 as well. And I ...want... to love it. I took a chance on the Amazon Warehouse deal for it. Budget price, used set. It is cosmetically perfect on the front with only a minor scratch on the back, not an issue.
However, mine is BUZZING. I have the buzz that emits straight from the panel. It is clearly audible when sitting directly in front of the TV, and greatly reduced as you move away from the center. Is this something that may reduce in time, or are there any settings to reduce it? I'm already watching it with the cnet configuration. It looks great, but the buzzing... it's too bad I like to sit in front of the TV when I watch it.
Since returning must be done via online RMA and shipping, I'd love to keep the TV and not go through the hassle, but before my 30 day window is up this has got to be mitigated.
On another note: how do I check the hours used on this set? I'm curious as to exactly how used it is.

This kind poster gave me the directions and it will work for you as it worked on my E8000:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1426719/samsung-plasma-did-i-purchase-a-new-or-refurbished-set/0_60#post_22360050
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post #2464 of 4151
8/31/12 at 6:22pm
Can anyone that went from a D7000 or D8000 to an E series model tell me your impressions of the brightness of the E when compared to your old D series? I am experiencing the return of Fbr on my 59D7000 and am trying to figure out if it's worth going through the pain in the rear it is to try to get Samsung to offer me an exchange. My main concern is that a new E7000 will appear much dimmer than my previous set and in that case it may not be worth my effort to try to correct the Fbr.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2465 of 4151
8/31/12 at 7:28pm
Went from a D8000 to an E8000 and I don't perceive any difference in overall brightness. Meters may say otherwise but subjectively to me, no disappointment.
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post #2466 of 4151
8/31/12 at 7:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by swillis55 View Post

Went from a D8000 to an E8000 and I don't perceive any difference in overall brightness. Meters may say otherwise but subjectively to me, no disappointment.

Just curious, did Samsung swap out your set for some reason or did you just exchange or sell it?
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post #2467 of 4151
8/31/12 at 8:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterG View Post

This kind poster gave me the directions and it will work for you as it worked on my E8000:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1426719/samsung-plasma-did-i-purchase-a-new-or-refurbished-set/0_60#post_22360050

Thank you very much. I was pleasantly surprised that my MRT value was at 12, after I have used it for at least 6 hours myself today. I got basically a new TV from the used deal. Now the question is... what to do about this buzzing? I hate to think it was returned after only 3 hours use by the previous owner because of buzzing, and now I'm the one with it. I have 30 days to return, so I'm trying not to be too hasty.
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post #2468 of 4151
8/31/12 at 9:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reach View Post

Thank you very much. I was pleasantly surprised that my MRT value was at 12, after I have used it for at least 6 hours myself today. I got basically a new TV from the used deal. Now the question is... what to do about this buzzing? I hate to think it was returned after only 3 hours use by the previous owner because of buzzing, and now I'm the one with it. I have 30 days to return, so I'm trying not to be too hasty.

Really no need to thank me as it was Avid Hiker who told me this today (in a thread I started about my original TV) and the people in the thread "Samsung D series FBr fix discussion" who discovered this in June on last year's models.

I am also happy for you that your used set had only roughly 6 hours of time on it when you received. I have had two "brand new, factory sealed" E8000s this week and my first which I only checked today had 100 hours on it despite my only using it for about 55 hours since Monday evening, 60 maximum. My second "new" set which arrived early this evening had 94 hours on it when I checked within minutes of unpacking and hooking it up.

As regards your buzzing, did you try the toroidal chokes that came with your TV, putting them at either end of the power cord? I do believe that some people, more knowledgeable than I am, don't think they help much but it definitely is worth trying.

Edit: I do want to thank you as you have shown me and perhaps others that the display time as shown by MRT must be pretty close to zero - no more than a couple of hours or so at most. This helps my case a lot to know this.
Edited by PeterG - 8/31/12 at 9:19pm
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post #2469 of 4151
9/1/12 at 4:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by swillis55 View Post

Went from a D8000 to an E8000 and I don't perceive any difference in overall brightness. Meters may say otherwise but subjectively to me, no disappointment.

Just curious, did Samsung swap out your set for some reason or did you just exchange or sell it?

I exchanged it. They were both the same price so why not get the newer model.
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post #2470 of 4151
9/1/12 at 8:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterG View Post

As regards your buzzing, did you try the toroidal chokes that came with your TV, putting them at either end of the power cord? I do believe that some people, more knowledgeable than I am, don't think they help much but it definitely is worth trying.

Yes, I did install the ferrite cores on either end of the power cord. They made no difference.
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post #2471 of 4151
9/2/12 at 6:56am
I have just purchased and set up a 64E7000 and using they initial settings recommended by cnet and others the picture looks very nice, and no buzzing. I also updated to the most current firmware.

In the past, I have ways used 16/9 picture size but I see the recommendations are for screen fit. I only watch HD cable and bluray content and I was curious
about why screen fit is recommended.

I did read a magazine review that recommended setting the dynamic contrast to low. Anybody else try that setting?

Thanks

Dave
Edited by david12 - 9/2/12 at 7:02am
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post #2472 of 4151
9/2/12 at 9:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by david12 View Post

I have just purchased and set up a 64E7000 and using they initial settings recommended by cnet and others the picture looks very nice, and no buzzing. I also updated to the most current firmware.
In the past, I have ways used 16/9 picture size but I see the recommendations are for screen fit. I only watch HD cable and bluray content and I was curious
about why screen fit is recommended.
I did read a magazine review that recommended setting the dynamic contrast to low. Anybody else try that setting?
Thanks
Dave

Turn on screen fit and you will see, your missing part of the whole picture or movie. 16:9 will be zoomed in quite a lot sometimes just depends on the program. The main reason some people like to leave it on 16:9 is so they can keep the pixel orbiter in use if your worried about burn-in. But in my experience these E-series are very immune to it. I play PS3 with games that have logo's all the time and I still haven't seen any hint of it.
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post #2473 of 4151
9/2/12 at 11:28am
david12

Leave it on 'screen fit'.
You enable pixel orbiter when you use 16:9 or 'wide fit' mode,
For pixel orbiter to work it applies 'over-scan'
to give it enough room to shift the image around.
Over-scan and cropping the picture is a no no.
The pixel orbiter is a placebo.
It does nothing to prevent IR, it just blurs the edges by 4 pixels
or whatever the orbit radius is set to.

Try this as a starting point.

Dynamic Contrast - off
Black Tone - Darkest

Movie - Mode
Cell Light 20
Sharpness 0
Screen Fit - Size
Brightness 50 daytime / 40 for evening and 35 to 30 for a dark room
Contrast 100 daytime / 97 for evening and 95 to 90 for a dark room
Color 52
R/G Tint 50/50
Color Space - Native
Gamma 0 for daytime ( -1 for night
Flesh Tone - 0
Color Tone - Warm1
Digital Noise Filter - Off
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post #2474 of 4151
9/2/12 at 11:52am
sonyfan,

Really? Black tone at darkest?

I really don't understand the advice you give on this forum. It flies directly in the face of what every other knowledgeable poster seems to recommend.
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post #2475 of 4151
9/2/12 at 12:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

sonyfan,
Really? Black tone at darkest?
I really don't understand the advice you give on this forum. It flies directly in the face of what every other knowledgeable poster seems to recommend.

Care to explain or post your own settings please.
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post #2476 of 4151
9/2/12 at 12:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

sonyfan,
Really? Black tone at darkest?
I really don't understand the advice you give on this forum. It flies directly in the face of what every other knowledgeable poster seems to recommend.

yeah, doesn't black tone just end up crushing the blacks?
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post #2477 of 4151
9/2/12 at 1:00pm
Setting black tone to anything but off will enhance blacks at the expense of shadow detail. IMO, while it can look impressive, it aggressively destroys detail in dark areas. Even when set to off, these sets need a little extra tweaking to bring out all the shadow detail.

But, whatever floats your boat.
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post #2478 of 4151
9/2/12 at 7:48pm
Hey has anyone had any sound cutouts? It seems like once an hour or do audio will drop for about a second and come back in. I am using optical out for sound. Ow until I get a new receiver. But I am wondering of its the tv or receiver.
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post #2479 of 4151
9/3/12 at 3:16am
I tried cnet's settings for my 64E8005, only to find out that with those tweaks, shadow detail and blacks are even worse than they were on my old 63C8000.

Is there anu specific settings for the 64" beast? Or has someone calibrated one?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
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post #2480 of 4151
9/3/12 at 4:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by djtoodles View Post

Hey has anyone had any sound cutouts? It seems like once an hour or do audio will drop for about a second and come back in. I am using optical out for sound. Ow until I get a new receiver. But I am wondering of its the tv or receiver.

Sorry, you're going to have to clarify your setup. I don't understand why you think it's the television if the sound is dropping out from the receiver to your speakers.
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post #2481 of 4151
9/3/12 at 6:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchaou View Post

I tried cnet's settings for my 64E8005, only to find out that with those tweaks, shadow detail and blacks are even worse than they were on my old 63C8000.
Is there anu specific settings for the 64" beast? Or has someone calibrated one?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
You should take his setting as "suggested" settings. In most cases especially with plasma displays which generally age differently and the environment which they are calibrated can't be exactly reproduced lend to less than accurate settings in real world conditions. Dave Katzmaier is one of my favorite online tech heads, so I love hearing his opinion on display technology. I also notice that whether it be his calibration tools or his color perception something always seems slightly off on his calibration setting. I don't have 20/20 vision or perfect color perception, but something always feels a little off.
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post #2482 of 4151
9/3/12 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by swillis55 View Post

Sorry, you're going to have to clarify your setup. I don't understand why you think it's the television if the sound is dropping out from the receiver to your speakers.
I never experienced the issue before. I had the same problem when i briefly used the samsung soundcbar that came with the system. I since returned the sound bar. I have the 64 e8000 and a opitcal out cable going to a technics receiver. and a cox cable box via hdmi to the tv. I have the tv sound disabled and only using the receiver. and it seems like once an hour the sound will stop for about 1 second and then keep playing. using the netflix app there was a few times the sound and video dropped for a second then came back in. Not sure if it was a internet buffer issue or the tv.

Just curious if anyone else had these problems and if there is anything I can do to check if its the tv or not. TV is about 2 weeks old. Other than that its been perfect.
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post #2483 of 4151
9/3/12 at 4:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by swillis55 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by djtoodles View Post

Hey has anyone had any sound cutouts? It seems like once an hour or do audio will drop for about a second and come back in. I am using optical out for sound. Ow until I get a new receiver. But I am wondering of its the tv or receiver.
Sorry, you're going to have to clarify your setup. I don't understand why you think it's the television if the sound is dropping out from the receiver to your speakers.

I agree,... more information of your setup is needed. Are you using a fiber optic cable from the TV's Digital Optical Output to your Receiver? Are you utilizing the 'ARC' functionality of the appropriate HDMI input on your TV (of course this would require that your receiver's HDMI output be 'ARC' capable)? If one of these is the case, it could be a problem with your TV, but I doubt it. More often the audio drop outs are due to the source.

Note: if you are utilizing the Digital Optical Output of your television to feed your receiver, you will not get full 5.1 channel audio unless you are utilizing the TV's internal tuner. As I understand it, Samsung TVs do not output 5.1 audio unless the source is the tuner. If the source is HDMI or Component Video, the Samsungs only output 2 channel stereo via the fiber optic. Of course, I may be wrong and all of you are free to correct me if this is not accurate.

As for myself I do not now, nor since about 1995, use any of my television's audio outputs unless the TV itself is the source of the audio (i.e. streaming through the TV's apps or from an over the air channel which is tuned via the TV's internal tuner). Doing so just adds one more link in the chain which could add unwanted artifacts or noise in the audio. What I do is use HDMI or Component from each individual source to the television for video only. I then use fiber optic (or coaxial digital) from each individual source to the receiver. My receiver is capable of having individually set delay times to accommodate audio/video sync.
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post #2484 of 4151
9/3/12 at 5:39pm
If the 5.1/2.1 thing is true about Samsung optical out, my theory falls apart...

My old setup had a similar issue, where audio would cut out when the optical cable was used. I found it was the receiver's fault, as it was a cheap one without any output modes...

The audio would cut out mostly during commercials/changing channels when the source would switch from surround to stereo... It would take the receiver 2 seconds to decode the change in audio...
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post #2485 of 4151
9/3/12 at 7:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlmax63 View Post

I agree,... more information of your setup is needed. Are you using a fiber optic cable from the TV's Digital Optical Output to your Receiver? Are you utilizing the 'ARC' functionality of the appropriate HDMI input on your TV (of course this would require that your receiver's HDMI output be 'ARC' capable)? If one of these is the case, it could be a problem with your TV, but I doubt it. More often the audio drop outs are due to the source.
Note: if you are utilizing the Digital Optical Output of your television to feed your receiver, you will not get full 5.1 channel audio unless you are utilizing the TV's internal tuner. As I understand it, Samsung TVs do not output 5.1 audio unless the source is the tuner. If the source is HDMI or Component Video, the Samsungs only output 2 channel stereo via the fiber optic. Of course, I may be wrong and all of you are free to correct me if this is not accurate.
As for myself I do not now, nor since about 1995, use any of my television's audio outputs unless the TV itself is the source of the audio (i.e. streaming through the TV's apps or from an over the air channel which is tuned via the TV's internal tuner). Doing so just adds one more link in the chain which could add unwanted artifacts or noise in the audio. What I do is use HDMI or Component from each individual source to the television for video only. I then use fiber optic (or coaxial digital) from each individual source to the receiver. My receiver is capable of having individually set delay times to accommodate audio/video sync.
I thought I did say it...

COX Cable box HDMI goes to HDMI 1 on the samsung tv.
optical out on samsung tv goes to optical in technics receiver.
samsung tv is set to use external speakers so the internals are not even on.

it is a cheap old receiver I am currently looking for one to buy, but I am just wondering if you guys think its the tv or the receiver. Maybe I will use internal speakers for a week to make sure... Also the HDMI cable is probably 4years old. not sure if that is any issue.
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post #2486 of 4151
9/3/12 at 8:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gizzygone View Post

If the 5.1/2.1 thing is true about Samsung optical out, my theory falls apart...
My old setup had a similar issue, where audio would cut out when the optical cable was used. I found it was the receiver's fault, as it was a cheap one without any output modes...
The audio would cut out mostly during commercials/changing channels when the source would switch from surround to stereo... It would take the receiver 2 seconds to decode the change in audio...

True enough, most low-cost receivers (especially older ones) don't have the processing power to switch efficiently when the program material changes.

It seems to me that with the cost of the TVs that are the subject of this thread that we would all do good to try to invest equally in the sound that we use to achieve a 'theater' illusion.

Receiver: Denon AVR-3805

Main Speakers: B&W P6

Center Speaker: B&W Matrix HTM

Surround Speakers: Infinity Beta ES250
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post #2487 of 4151
9/3/12 at 8:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by djtoodles View Post

I thought I did say it...
COX Cable box HDMI goes to HDMI 1 on the samsung tv.
optical out on samsung tv goes to optical in technics receiver.
samsung tv is set to use external speakers so the internals are not even on.
it is a cheap old receiver I am currently looking for one to buy, but I am just wondering if you guys think its the tv or the receiver. Maybe I will use internal speakers for a week to make sure... Also the HDMI cable is probably 4years old. not sure if that is any issue.

Does the Cox cable box also have an optical out? If it does, try going from it directly to your receiver and give it a try for a while. Besides, this way you'll get full 5.1 when the program material supports it (this is of course assuming the cox cable box supports DD). I don't know if your receiver has an adjustable time delay function. Typically you'll only find this on A/V receivers. Because of this, the sound & video being out of sync will probably drive you up the wall, but I'm sure you can deal with that long enough to rule out the TV as the source of your dropouts.
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post #2488 of 4151
9/4/12 at 5:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonyfan View Post

david12
Leave it on 'screen fit'.
You enable pixel orbiter when you use 16:9 or 'wide fit' mode,
For pixel orbiter to work it applies 'over-scan'
to give it enough room to shift the image around.
Over-scan and cropping the picture is a no no.
The pixel orbiter is a placebo.
It does nothing to prevent IR, it just blurs the edges by 4 pixels
or whatever the orbit radius is set to.
Try this as a starting point.
Dynamic Contrast - off
Black Tone - Darkest
Movie - Mode
Cell Light 20
Sharpness 0
Screen Fit - Size
Brightness 50 daytime / 40 for evening and 35 to 30 for a dark room
Contrast 100 daytime / 97 for evening and 95 to 90 for a dark room
Color 52
R/G Tint 50/50
Color Space - Native
Gamma 0 for daytime ( -1 for night
Flesh Tone - 0
Color Tone - Warm1
Digital Noise Filter - Off
Why do you recommend settings to people as you don't have clue what you are talking about. Black tone shouldn't be set to darkest and the brightness levels you recommend are from another planet. Maybe these settings work for you but don't mislead people with your recommended settings.
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post #2489 of 4151
9/4/12 at 8:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchaou View Post

I tried cnet's settings for my 64E8005, only to find out that with those tweaks, shadow detail and blacks are even worse than they were on my old 63C8000.
Is there anu specific settings for the 64" beast? Or has someone calibrated one?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

AFAIK, on Samsungs at least, full calibrations will never look quite right when copied to another set (they can actually look worse than default movie mode). Those settings are correct for the spcific TV that cnet calibratied, not for your TV.

For maximum shadow detail without creating a custom gamma curve (which requires a meter and advanced techniques), you can try increasing the gamma setting to +1 or +2. You will then need to recalibrate the brightness with a test disc such as AVS HD 709. A good test disc is a necessity if you care about your picture quality - don't just use someone's posted settings. 5 minutes with a test disc and I can always do better - all the basic adjustments can be done by eye.
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post #2490 of 4151
9/4/12 at 3:04pm
Despite this being a UK review (and certain elements of the UK version will be particular to viewers there) here is an excellent one by David Mackenzie. Echoes everything that I have experienced with my two PN51E8000s, namely not the greatest black levels (but still good) and somewhat less than perfect IR resistance (although nothing bad at all).

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ps51e8000-201209042144.htm
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