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Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 103

post #3061 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

Actually, I found cinema smooth to cause flicking during 24p blurays, so I leave it off. I could see the difference. CS was bad for 3D. I use Movie for live action and Standard for CG movies in 3D.

I just had mine ISF'd and the calibrator agreed Cinema Smooth should be off for blu-rays.
post #3062 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morangus View Post

Ok, so I've been trying to read through this thread... I think my eyes are bugging out a bit... anyway, I have a fairly quick question... I'm about to get my PN51E8000 delivered this Saturday, and in the mean time I'm looking at Audio Receivers and I think I'm set on picking up an Onkyo... The question I'm having is, do I need a receiver with 2 HDMI outputs for this TV or can I get away with one HDMI input on the TV and still play both 2D and 3D signals as well as run apps from the TV? The HDMI cable I picked up has ARC capability so I'm hoping I can do everything with one HDMI input (or is 2 needed for 3D signals)? This TV will send ARC back the same HDMI cable to the receiver correct?
Thanks!
- Mo

Correct. You only need 1 HDMI cable between the TV and the receiver. Be sure that the receiver supports both ARC & 3D. I don't have the 51" , but on the 60" only 1 HDMI port on the TV supports the ARC feature. Just be sure to use that port for the cable between the TV and the receiver.
post #3063 of 4279
ISF by UMR (Jeff Meier) last night of my 64PN7000.. Pre-calibration settings were Movie mode defaults with contrast lowered to 17 cell light and 85 contrast for break in, color at 49 and brightness at 47. On/off contrast was a little over 1000. Temperature was avg of 6200. Colors = spot on except cyan (undersaturated) and green (hue too yellow).

Post-calibration = 6550 avg, temp. on/off contrast = 5088 (with contrast on low/night settings, closer to 6000 for day settings). Gamma is 2.23. MLL = .0006. Colors all perfect except a bit of extra saturation on cyan and green but foliage and sky values are perfect so no biggie. In comparison, my 8G Kuro measured at 9069 (with somewhat larger color deviations) and the 9G at 28000 (with almost identical color performance). There are no 2D problems except cinema smooth doesn't work correctly but interpolates, so we turned it off. Jeff was very impressed with 3D performance. Can't wait to watch some films this weekend and enjoy the now superior look to an already great display!

Jeff also claibrated my new NHT ATs/Two C and Infinity PS10 system. I will say that I listened to/watched Prometheus last night and it was fantastic in the audio department Football and a streaming episode of Frings also were perfectly balanced as to voice versus ambient sounds.
Edited by Trackman - 12/17/12 at 8:38am
post #3064 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

I just had mine ISF'd and the calibrator agreed Cinema Smooth should be off for blu-rays.
Cine Smooth should be on for 24p blurays. I was referring to turning it off for 3d movies only.

Also, cine smooth does not interpolate frames. It repeats each frame 4 times to acheive 96hz. This is known as 4:4 pulldown. You want to leave this on for 24p content.
Edited by Icon13 - 12/13/12 at 11:05pm
post #3065 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by coupey View Post

I'm on the fence between the es7100 and the e7000. I watch a ton of espn and I'm absolutely terrified of having espn logo burn into the screen. the last plasma I had was a Vizio probably 7 years ago and it definitely burnt in. I've read some of the IR thread but nothing really specific in regards to this tv. I've also seen the cnet accidental burn in test but honestly I'm just looking for personal experience from people that own the tv. is this something I should be concerned about? have you experienced any burn in or severe IR? I know Samsung tested higher than Panasonic but I'm still scared.

I have a Samsung D7000 . Been watching ESPN for the past 2 years with no IR. Just be careful during your first 2 weeks. I just ran 3 or 4
16:9 full screen Blurays to acclimate the set then switched games etc when watching. Just have the remote handy and change channels
A lot.

CD
post #3066 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

I just had mine ISF'd and the calibrator agreed Cinema Smooth should be off for blu-rays.

From Home Theatre Mag:


All Samsung plasmas refresh at a rate of 60 hertz. With a 24-fps, 2D source and Cinema Smooth selected in the film mode control, the refresh rate increases to 96 Hz, and the set displays 24 fps at four times its original refresh rate, with no 3:2 pulldown conversion. Cinema Smooth isn’t a motion-interpolation feature; the set neither has one nor needs one. The added frames are merely repeated.

If you have selected Cinema Smooth and feed the set a non-24-fps source, the refresh rate reverts to 60 Hz and the set defaults to one of the auto film mode settings. However, 3D playback always uses 3:2 pulldown on 24-fps sources.
post #3067 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Take a look at the top of the page you posted on or a page or so back there was discussion on this...Known issue....

Thanks. I should have written Smarthub instead of browser, and it's not just the logo but the entire Smarthub flashes for such a microsecond that when I first saw it I wondered if it was my imagination.

What it did today convinces me that the other poster was correct. It flashed and went back to live TV but then appeared the box in the top right hand corner that a download was occurring. It seems that either always or occasionally the set looks for updates on being turned on and whether it should or is a bug or is just my set, the hub flashes to begin the process.

Could anyone answer the question on whether it's possible to use the pointer while browsing [and how to move it] in the e7000?
post #3068 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Opinionated View Post

Could anyone answer the question on whether it's possible to use the pointer while browsing [and how to move it] in the e7000?

According to the manual, the pointer is for LED7500 and above and PDP 8000 series. It doesn't list the 7000. I guess that doest mean it wont work though. The pointer incorporates voice control, so the 7000 software may not support the device. When you first attempted to use it, did it pair to the TV? If it doesn't pair, it can't work.
Have you checked out the e-manual on your TV and if so does it have information on the smart touch remote.
post #3069 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

Spent the last 4 hours going over the same threads and review sites for the Panny 60GT50 and Sammy 60E7000 that I've done for the past few weeks, stuck on not making a decision.
After having to return 2 large LED's to BB already, I'm so over having to return. Although I feel like I saw somewhere they will pickup returns if the TV is over 46" but now I can't find that info anywhere.
Anyways, seems like the cons for Sammy are buzzing, line bleed, lighter blacks compared to Panny, and the hockey brightness thing. I don't watch hockey, the blacks will still probably be blacker than anything I've had before, line bleed doesn't seem to be reported that much (right?), so it all comes down to buzzing.
Pros over GT50, better video processing for Uverse's crappy HD signals, not as many reports of banding, and seems like there is no IR.
Since I'll be using it as a PC monitor 37% of the time, my biggest worry is IR. Since I'll watch Uverse about 41% of the time, I want whatever will help make it look the best.
So... I'm just thinking back to that Samsung 60E7000 vs Panasonic ST50 thread where the OP, along with a few repliers, stated the E7000 blacks were very poor compared to the Panasonic. I wish I could erase my memory of viewing that thread, because it seems like that, along with the buzzing, is holding me back. It's just weird since other review sites say they are comparable.
But what are my other options... dealing with IR of the Panny, or downgrading to a 55" Sony HX850 or waiting for a 2013 plasma, no spanks.
That's all I got. No real purpose to this comment, just thinking out loud, since I can't sleep.
I was going through same thoughts as you for over two months finally pulled the trigger on the 51e7000 for $800 all the worries I had ( IR PQ BUZZING...) not one problem everything is great this coming from a person that really wanted a panny not saying panny is bad just saying love this tv feel foolish for two months of worrying.
post #3070 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by ncted View Post

My PN64E7000 buzzes, but so did my LN55C750 that it replaced, and the LNS-4696D in the bedroom, and the LN32A450 in the workout room, and the 36XBR800 I used to own. Every TV I have ever owned has made some buzzing noise if I got close enough to the set. At normal viewing distances, I don't notice it.
-Ted

Consider yourself lucky. My set buzzes so ****ing loudly if you're low and centered enough to it. I don't know if it's my ears or not; I've never asked anyone else about it to save embarrassment in case they haven't noticed it before, but it's so easily noticeable. Doesn't matter how far away you are, either.

D7000 here.
post #3071 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cattledog View Post

From Home Theatre Mag:
All Samsung plasmas refresh at a rate of 60 hertz. With a 24-fps, 2D source and Cinema Smooth selected in the film mode control, the refresh rate increases to 96 Hz, and the set displays 24 fps at four times its original refresh rate, with no 3:2 pulldown conversion. Cinema Smooth isn’t a motion-interpolation feature; the set neither has one nor needs one. The added frames are merely repeated.
If you have selected Cinema Smooth and feed the set a non-24-fps source, the refresh rate reverts to 60 Hz and the set defaults to one of the auto film mode settings. However, 3D playback always uses 3:2 pulldown on 24-fps sources.

In theory yes but in practice not correctly implemented. There's no point in debating it. Many people are fine with 60hz. I'm not judder-sensitive, so leaving it at 60hz is better than an incorrectly done 96. If the look of 96 works for you, then you are set!
post #3072 of 4279
Could we try to set up a chart on the first post where people share their calibrated settings for E8000 plasma?

Where I live there is no calibrators and it is very hard to find some settings online :-(
post #3073 of 4279
Yea going thru 136 pages for some picture settings is very time consuming. I have been trying to get some game mode picture setting and just can't seem to find them. Have you tried CNET picture settings ? I use those for movies and looks pretty good.
post #3074 of 4279
Any 3D calibrations settings. ??
post #3075 of 4279
Hi Guys,

When you watch 720p video do you force your media device to 720p? I find watching 720p on the set to be grainy when upscaling to 1080p.
post #3076 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferl View Post

According to the manual, the pointer is for LED7500 and above and PDP 8000 series. .

From the e7000 e-manual:

"Link Browsing / Pointer Browsing: You can change the cursor to Link Browsing mode or Pointer Browsing mode.

Enable Grabbing / Disable Grabbing:

You can move to the direction you want a current web page. To move a web page, select a web page. Then move to direction you wish using your remote.

Available only when cursor is set to Pointer Browsing."

But it doesn't say how to use the remote to make the pointer move .
post #3077 of 4279
Don't know if you plan to use the Smart Hub/Browser much, but if you do, get a cheap bluetooth mouse. It makes the whole experience far, far easier than using the remote.

I thought I'd use the Smart stuff, more but so far have not found it to be very useful (I've had accounts on the premium streaming sites and cancelled them all, not enough value in them for me). Still, the bluetooth mouse makes it easier.
post #3078 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Opinionated View Post

60e7000
Is this normal?
I have noticed that within the first seconds to minute after I turn on the set often the web browser flashes on-screen for less the a micro second, and then vanishes.

I'm having this too, a few minutes after turning it on. Just happens once. It started after the last firmware update.
post #3079 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanD12 View Post

Any 3D calibrations settings. ??

The only real difference between 3D and 2D re settings is to max out cell light and contrast (after break in). The rest is just personal preference as no standard for 3D exists to calibrate to! I've got the depth and pop out on the default levels.
post #3080 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Opinionated View Post

From the e7000 e-manual:
"Link Browsing / Pointer Browsing: You can change the cursor to Link Browsing mode or Pointer Browsing mode.
Enable Grabbing / Disable Grabbing:
You can move to the direction you want a current web page. To move a web page, select a web page. Then move to direction you wish using your remote.
Available only when cursor is set to Pointer Browsing."
But it doesn't say how to use the remote to make the pointer move .

On the 8000, after you launch the browser, there are options listed at the bottom of the screen. The "yellow C button" selects the pointer browsing option. After selecting the pointer option you slide your finger or thumb around on the black part of the remote like a touch pad on a laptop. After you have positioned the pointer you push the black portion of the remote like you are depressing a mouse button.
Did your remote pair with the TV? There is a recessed "pairing" button on the back of the remote to reset and pair the remote. It has to pair with the TV to function. The information for the smart touch remote on the e-manual is accessed by---menu--support--e-manual---other information---using the smart touch remote.

I tend to agree with boondongle as far as the Bluetooth mouse. A mouse would be better than the smart touch remote. The smart touch remote is the same as a touch pad on a laptop and I hate those things. I played with this remote and the web browser at first and don't use either now.
Edited by ferl - 12/14/12 at 1:40pm
post #3081 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferl View Post

On the 8000, after you launch the browser, there are options listed at the bottom of the screen. The "yellow C button" selects the pointer browsing option. After selecting the pointer option you slide your finger or thumb around on the black part of the remote like a touch pad on a laptop.

The 8000 has a different remote then the 7000.

How strange that it seems to be a feature of the 7000 too, but with the standard remote there is no way to make it work.

I will try the bluetooth mouse approach, I'm thinking it should work well-if it works- with an apple magic mouse.


Added: It would not pair with the magic mouse. It did pair with an old Dell bluetooth mouse.

Not ideal but a world better then attempting to browse by moving link by link.
Edited by Opinionated - 12/14/12 at 3:00pm
post #3082 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

The only real difference between 3D and 2D re settings is to max out cell light and contrast (after break in). The rest is just personal preference as no standard for 3D exists to calibrate to! I've got the depth and pop out on the default levels.

I do some things to remove the "green" tint that the glasses slightly give everything though, too.
post #3083 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Opinionated View Post

The 8000 has a different remote then the 7000.
How strange that it seems to be a feature of the 7000 too, but with the standard remote there is no way to make it work.

True. I incorrectly assumed that you were attempting to use a smart touch remote with the 7000, as there is no way to use the pointer without that remote. I thought you wanted to get the 8000 remote to work with the 7000.
As Roseana Roseanadana would say, "Never mind" biggrin.gif
post #3084 of 4279
Same as my experience. Tried to pair it with a Magic Mouse, Magic Trackpad and Apple BT Keyboard - none of them were successful. Used an el cheap Dell mouse and it works. rolleyes.gif

You'd think these guys were having Patent disputes or something. smile.gif
post #3085 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by boondongle View Post

Same as my experience. Tried to pair it with a Magic Mouse, Magic Trackpad and Apple BT Keyboard - none of them were successful. Used an el cheap Dell mouse and it works. rolleyes.gif
You'd think these guys were having Patent disputes or something. smile.gif

Exactly! I've been suspicious of those rounded corners since day one wink.gif
I guess you could say, "Dell, It just works"
post #3086 of 4279
I just got an ARC compatible home theater receiver. Does anybody know how to enable ARC on this TV?
post #3087 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanD12 View Post

Yea going thru 136 pages for some picture settings is very time consuming. I have been trying to get some game mode picture setting and just can't seem to find them. Have you tried CNET picture settings ? I use those for movies and looks pretty good.

Yes I tried the cnet settings and the image is way to bright! blacks are whiteish grey :-(
post #3088 of 4279
Just got my 64E800 and am wondering about running slides. When I run them when it changes slides it shows a bunch of colored bars sliding across the screen(left to right or top to bottom). Is this normal or the only way to run the slides or am I doing something wrong? Is there a way to set them up so they just change without displaying the moving bars? Thanks
post #3089 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by TommmyJ View Post

Just got my 64E800 and am wondering about running slides. When I run them when it changes slides it shows a bunch of colored bars sliding across the screen(left to right or top to bottom). Is this normal or the only way to run the slides or am I doing something wrong? Is there a way to set them up so they just change without displaying the moving bars? Thanks
yes, press tools and then turn effect off.
post #3090 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

In theory yes but in practice not correctly implemented. There's no point in debating it. Many people are fine with 60hz. I'm not judder-sensitive, so leaving it at 60hz is better than an incorrectly done 96. If the look of 96 works for you, then you are set!
Can you explain what aspect is incorrectly done? In 60hz mode it does the first frame 2 times, the second one 3 times, the third 2 times, the fourth 3 times... (3,2,3,2,3,2,3,2 AKA 3:2 pulldown). Each frame is not shown for an equal amount of time, and thus 60hz is incorrectly done.

Cine Smooth just repeats each frame 4 times. 4:4 pulldown; which equals 96hz (24fps x 4 = 96hz). Each frame is shown for an equal amount of time and thus CS is done correctly.

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