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Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 105

post #3121 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

Sorry, who's Jeff? The CNET guy?
Is he still in California?

Jeff Meier. He's not the CNET guy. His username on AVS forum is "UMR". His expertise is highly regarded on this forum.

Here's more info http://www.accucalhd.com/about.htm
Edited by ferl - 12/17/12 at 9:47am
post #3122 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

How it looks is all that matters. Visual observation by a certified, experienced calibrator is the most solid evidence. It didn't look right to him so he chose 60 hz instead Makes sense to me. The Kuro does a true 24 fps which I do have engaged per Jeff's calibration. He saw a difference between the two sets in that regard.
You are still missing the point. THERE IS NO INTERPOLATION. Increasing the refresh rate (in multiples of the source refresh rate) produces smoother motion and less flicker. The Kuro at 24hz will be less smooth than the E at 96hz. That does not imply that the source material has been altered at all. If you prefer 60hz with 3:2 pulldown, then more power to you; but please don't misinform people.
Edited by Icon13 - 12/17/12 at 4:16pm
post #3123 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cahn2126 View Post

I have a friend that has an 60es8000. I went over a few months ago with my PC to test the input lag. I tested Marvel vs Capcom 3 (PS3), Starcraft 2, and BF 3 (PC). Picture is amazing for games, however if you are an ultra competitive gamer I would suggest trying to find a Sammy Plasma that works for you. I can definitely feel the lag. However, it is better than last years models.
I'm about to go for the 51pne7000 and I honestly don't care how many times it takes for me to return. I cannot game on LED/LCD with their current input lag.

When you say you tested the input lag, are you talking about just eyeballing it to compare the feel? Or did you actually run tests with comparable results? I'm curious about the input lag for FPS games on this set as well as the LED's. I haven't ran the HDMI from my PC to this e8000 yet, but I will be here in the near future. Just need to get my hands on a >12' HDMI cable.
post #3124 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

How it looks is all that matters. Visual observation by a certified, experienced calibrator is the most solid evidence. It didn't look right to him so he chose 60 hz instead Makes sense to me. The Kuro does a true 24 fps which I do have engaged per Jeff's calibration. He saw a difference between the two sets in that regard.
You shouldn't put much weight on certification, but a lot of weight on skill, experience, and art.

After the technical work is done, with the best tools available, talented calibrators, including UMR and D-Nice, always look at source material that they are very familiar with. They know what their test sources are suppose to look like. If they need to, they make adjustments based on their subjective impression. That's the Art of Calibration. biggrin.gif
post #3125 of 4279
Just saw the "Smart Hub" appear for a fraction of a second while watching Directv. I have the latest firmware. Pn64e7000.
Hopefully this is a software glitch.

CD
post #3126 of 4279
Hey guys. I'm curious about how to use break in slides on the E7000. I found this set of slides on a post by D-Nice called Evangelo2's Thumbdrive Files. Are these the right ones to use? It seems to use these I simply calibrate my E7000s settings and then run the slides at a certain interval? Advice on how to proceed is much appreciated smile.gif

Edit: or would something like pixel jogger be better? On his thread it says the colored slides are dangerous. But his flashes white to black at 30 fps, almost gives me epilepsy lol. That seems harsher on the screen but what do i know. Also heard of just a plain white screen.

I just want to do this right with my first high end tv PN60E7000 so id like to get info on the proper procedure.
Edited by Bluemustang - 12/18/12 at 4:00am
post #3127 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

You are still missing the point. THERE IS NO INTERPOLATION. Increasing the refresh rate (in multiples of the source refresh rate) produces smoother motion and less flicker. The Kuro at 24hz will be less smooth than the E at 96hz. That does not imply that the source material has been altered at all. If you prefer 60hz with 3:2 pulldown, then more power to you; but please don't misinform people.

The goal is for the display to look like film in the theater - to show exactly the image as shot on the set. To be smooth per se is not the goal. Per Jeff, the Sammy at 96hz fails to recreate film correctly. You prefer smooth - super.
post #3128 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

The goal is for the display to look like film in the theater - to show exactly the image as shot on the set. To be smooth per se is not the goal. Per Jeff, the Sammy at 96hz fails to recreate film correctly. You prefer smooth - super.

This is quite funny because if you follow that logic all TV sets would have to operate at 24p....none do. Only cameras operate at 24fps. The Kuro uses processing algorithms in its 24hz mode (Pure Cinema) and up converts a 24fps signal to 72hz. It's native rate is 60hz.
CD
Edited by Cattledog - 12/18/12 at 10:03am
post #3129 of 4279
Anyone have a 7000 or 8000 that has pinkish/purplish hue on the two sides of the screen and kind of greenish in the middle on grey/white slides? Mine is like that and then I looked at another one at the store today and it was pretty much the same too. Both of them buzzed pretty good too.
post #3130 of 4279
I have a 64e8000 & it really doesnt have that. Obviously the whites are not the brightest but we know that already. But no hue that I can see.
post #3131 of 4279
Also I am a bit concerned that the TV's settings for brightness/cell/ and contrast have to absolutely maxed out and the picture still isn't overly bright. On say batman or something it is just barely bright enough to see. So besides it not being pure bright white it isn't coloured at all hey. Maybe I have just seen to buzzers with defective screens too then. Man I have bad luck with TV's.
post #3132 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluemustang View Post

Hey guys. I'm curious about how to use break in slides on the E7000. I found this set of slides on a post by D-Nice called Evangelo2's Thumbdrive Files. Are these the right ones to use? It seems to use these I simply calibrate my E7000s settings and then run the slides at a certain interval? Advice on how to proceed is much appreciated smile.gif
Edit: or would something like pixel jogger be better? On his thread it says the colored slides are dangerous. But his flashes white to black at 30 fps, almost gives me epilepsy lol. That seems harsher on the screen but what do i know. Also heard of just a plain white screen.
I just want to do this right with my first high end tv PN60E7000 so id like to get info on the proper procedure.

What he (or she) said. My 51e7000 is supposed to be delivered on Wednesday the 19th. Thanks. . .
post #3133 of 4279
I have been having problems with my pn60e8000 powering off/on repeatedly or sometimes getting in a state where the remote doesn't work nor the button on the lower left edge of the TV. If I unplug it for a while, I might get 20 minutes of viewing before it starts the off/on cycle. I am thinking it is most likely a mother board since it sometimes just locks up as opposed to cycling on and off. I have the latest firmware update which is 1041.1. Has anyone else had issues like this? I have already put in a service request.
post #3134 of 4279
I didn't bother with the break in slides on mine. Been using it for three weeks. No problems and the picture is great. A friend of mine followed the d nice break in procedures, and there is no discernible difference between the two. Glad I didn't waste my time.

And I like the 96hz cinema smooth. It's not soap opera effect smooth. Just less abnormal judder and the regular frame rate non-smoothness. smile.gif
post #3135 of 4279
I used Pixel Jogger for the first 5 days (8 hours each day) while I was at work. I watched TV and Blu-rays (with black bars) in between with no IR. I refuse to be that person who babies their TV every day. I am enjoying it as it should be.
post #3136 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by morpheus200 View Post

I have been having problems with my pn60e8000 powering off/on repeatedly or sometimes getting in a state where the remote doesn't work nor the button on the lower left edge of the TV. If I unplug it for a while, I might get 20 minutes of viewing before it starts the off/on cycle. I am thinking it is most likely a mother board since it sometimes just locks up as opposed to cycling on and off. I have the latest firmware update which is 1041.1. Has anyone else had issues like this? I have already put in a service request.

My TV started powering off and on a couple times just after it's been turned on. And the SMART hub flashes really quick. Good news it stops around 10 minutes after the TV has been on. My guess it's firmware related, since this crap started after the last update.. Anyway I might place a call to the extended service plan people soon.
post #3137 of 4279
Update on the cycling off/on issue. I did the manufacturers troubleshooting instructions. Unplug the display while it is on, leave unplugged for 30 seconds, then plug back in. Seems to work for now. I'll post any changes.
post #3138 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by slumpey View Post

I used Pixel Jogger for the first 5 days (8 hours each day) while I was at work. I watched TV and Blu-rays (with black bars) in between with no IR. I refuse to be that person who babies their TV every day. I am enjoying it as it should be.

I've owned my TV for 15 months, and I still seem to baby it. In other words, I refuse to fall asleep to a screen that will potentially have a static logo. Whether that means finishing up a movie and going to the menu screen or SportsCenter coming on within the hour on ESPN, I'll have to put on a sleep timer with a time that would not affect it.

I use "HD Zoom" a lot with my cable box so a bottom line ticker isn't showing up when my focus isn't primarily on the television. I just don't find the need to have IR on my screen if I'm going to own this puppy for a long time.

Then again, I'm getting ****ing sick of the buzzing! mad.gif
post #3139 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

I've owned my TV for 15 months, and I still seem to baby it. In other words, I refuse to fall asleep to a screen that will potentially have a static logo. Whether that means finishing up a movie and going to the menu screen or SportsCenter coming on within the hour on ESPN, I'll have to put on a sleep timer with a time that would not affect it.
I use "HD Zoom" a lot with my cable box so a bottom line ticker isn't showing up when my focus isn't primarily on the television. I just don't find the need to have IR on my screen if I'm going to own this puppy for a long time.
Then again, I'm getting ****ing sick of the buzzing! mad.gif

I have owned this set for a month and I'm doing the same thing at night with sleep timers and during the day with tickers. I am so hesitant to return this and exchange it for an es7100 LED, in fear of noticeably worse PQ. I'm just as hesitant to exchange it for the same model in fear of another buzzer. I can't win, lol. Stupidly long lines at BB make it that much more fun.

Do you notice every once in a while the buzzing is completely gone? I had a buzz free night last night.
post #3140 of 4279
Hey guys, looking for some calibration info..... I have a 64 D8000 and at my advice a friend of mine just went out and bought a new 64 E8000. I just scrolled through 105 pages looking for people who had calibrated their sets and am surprised at how little info there is on here.

All I am seeing is CNET settings which everyone agrees are too BLUE and a recent post from someone who used a Disney WOW blu-ray.

Does anyone have any feedback on what settings are working best for them? With the D8000 there were a ton of professionals sharing advice daily which made it easy to tweak my set. I can't believe no one has had their E8000 professionally calibrated after they've been out for this long???

Thanks in advance for the help!

-Jason
post #3141 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbris84 View Post

I have owned this set for a month and I'm doing the same thing at night with sleep timers and during the day with tickers. I am so hesitant to return this and exchange it for an es7100 LED, in fear of noticeably worse PQ. I'm just as hesitant to exchange it for the same model in fear of another buzzer. I can't win, lol. Stupidly long lines at BB make it that much more fun.
Do you notice every once in a while the buzzing is completely gone? I had a buzz free night last night.

Nope. It is a directional buzzing. If you draw a line orthogonal from a point on your television screen, and your ears intersect that line (in other words, if you are in front of the TV lol), then you will hear this buzz. The lower and more centered you are on the screen, the louder it gets. It doesn't sound like a normal plasma buzz, either. It sounds like... like an active bug-zapper. It sounds like there's something wrong with it. Sometimes I do my best to pretend it doesn't exist, or set the volume loud enough, sit high enough or off to the side, etc. to try and avoid having to hear it. I would personally feel much better if I was the only one in the world to hear it and not others; it's almost embarrassing if someone else were to bring it up. Fortunately, no one else has... but they can probably hear it.

My sister and her husband own the 64" version of my set, and there is zero directional buzzing. Just a normal, very quiet buzz coming out from the back of the TV that is essentially inaudible from viewing distance, no matter your positioning.
post #3142 of 4279
A hu
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

I did and his only explanation is that it looks too smooth. That is not based on any measurements, but a hunch. I think it is unfair to misinform prospective buyers on this forum that these sets interpolate frames without any solid evidence of it. Perhaps the 96hz 4:4 pull down is done so well that it looks very smooth. However, not once has anything that I viewed on my plasma had the smooth "soap opera" effect of 120hz/240hz LCDs.

An observation by me is far more than a hunch. It is a mistake to dismiss an experienced persons observations so cavalierly.
post #3143 of 4279
MuffinMcfluffin, I have the directional buzz, the same as you. If you stand and slowly crouch down you will intersect the buzz. It is a pretty precise line of sound coming out of the front. It sometimes changes frequency but just slightly to more of a slower zapping/fizzling sound for me.
post #3144 of 4279
Don't take this the wrong way UMR, but as a person who's watched many movies and tv shows over the last 40 years, went to film school for a bit and worked with a guy who got a degree from RIT in color sciences (who spent a lot of time teaching me color theory, I prefer LAB, thanks, smile.gif ).

What do you not like about Cinema Smooth? Looks good to me. Is it a personal preference? Something specific I'm not seeing?

Not trying to take away from your experience calibrating TVs, but as a scientist of sorts and an amateur astronomer who's done a lot of studying on how light works, I'm curious what it is you don't think is good about it. Just an honest question. I'm honestly curious.

I had a job color correcting images in the pre-press industry during college so I understand it isn't a color issue, is it a motion/smoothness issue?

Thanks for your thoughts.
post #3145 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

ISF by UMR (Jeff Meier) last night of my 64PN7000.. Pre-calibration settings were Movie mode defaults with contrast lowered to 17 cell light and 85 contrast for break in, color at 49 and brightness at 47. On/off contrast was a little over 1000. Temperature was avg of 6200. Colors = spot on except cyan (undersaturated) and green (hue too yellow).

Post-calibration = 6550 avg, temp. on/off contrast = 5088 (with contrast on low/night settings, closer to 6000 for day settings). Gamma is 2.23. MLL = .0006. Colors all perfect except a bit of extra saturation on cyan and green but foliage and sky values are perfect so no biggie. In comparison, my 8G Kuro measured at 9069 (with somewhat larger color deviations) and the 9G at 28000 (with almost identical color performance). There are no 2D problems except cinema smooth doesn't work correctly but interpolates, so we turned it off. Jeff was very impressed with 3D performance. Can't wait to watch some films this weekend and enjoy the now superior look to an already great display!

Jeff also claibrated my new NHT ATs/Two C and Infinity PS10 system. I will say that I listened to/watched Prometheus last night and it was fantastic in the audio department Football and a streaming episode of Frings also were perfectly balanced as to voice versus ambient sounds.

Could you please share those calibrated settings? For the sake of other owners, who doesnt have the priviledge to get their sets professionally cqlibrated?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
post #3146 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by TommmyJ View Post

Anyone have a 7000 or 8000 that has pinkish/purplish hue on the two sides of the screen and kind of greenish in the middle on grey/white slides? Mine is like that and then I looked at another one at the store today and it was pretty much the same too. Both of them buzzed pretty good too.

This is a "panel uniformity issue", and totally unacceptable for a display of this cost. Contact Samsung, and be prepared to spend 30 minutes with an idiot describing the problem. After the discomfort of the conversation (be polite and persistent) Samsung will replace the panel at no charge to you. I have had this done previously, and have another panel arriving Friday because I have minor pink discoloration (which REALLY messes up my calibration meters!). Panel replacement takes about half an hour and is covered by your warranty. Virtually painless.

On a completely separate note, these panels SHOULD NOT BUZZ in spite of what "the monkey" states. Yes, there is some barely audible electrical hum (similar to CRT) you can hear if you put your head on the panel. "Buzz", especially directional, is totally unacceptable. From the few reports I've read on this forum, it sounds like MOST directional buzz comes from panels mounted on the supplied stand (and it seems to originate in the lower front section where the stand is attached). I've had 2 E8000 panels with NO detectable BUZZ, even when scanned with an SPL meter. NOTE: my panels have been WALL MOUNTED. If I had a "directional buzzer" mounted on a stand, I think I'd try to put some thin rubber insulating material on the mounting screws and the back of the stand to see if the issue disappears. If that didn't resolve the issue, I'd insist that Samsung replace the panel, and continue doing so until you get one that doesn't buzz because THEY'RE OUT THERE!!!! I don't recall any reports of wall-mounted buzzers, so if they buzz on the stand but not the wall it's not the panel.

Dan
Edited by ellisda1 - 12/20/12 at 3:40am
post #3147 of 4279
Thanks very much for the information Dan. I phoned Samsung and the guy tells me to turn the tv up to 15 and see if I can still hear it over the tv volume. I am like that is pretty loud for a benchmark, what about quiet scenes in movies and stuff? Then I tell him about the discoloration and he tells me to go to panel diagnostic which all that is, is a picture of a beach with a blue sky. He asked me if I could still see it and I said ya. What kind of diagnostic is that?

Get this when I told the rep about the greenish tint he said something about the TV leaking or something. I can remember exactly what he said but I am pretty sure the tv isn't leaking gases or anything just discolored for some reason.

The store manager has forwarded this issue to a Samsung rep and they are supposed to be calling me here. I am willing to see what they say as I am tired of returning Panasonic's due to defects and then now the Samsung. I just don't think they really care what is going out the door to the consumer anymore, how could they?

Here is what the screen looks like. It is hard to capture on camera. Mine is wall mounted though and the sound is really directional as there is a wave of sound at a certain height. My Tv is within 30 days so I could just exchange it to the store as well but not sure if I should just let Samsung try something first or not.


Edited by TommmyJ - 12/19/12 at 7:09pm
post #3148 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchaou View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

ISF by UMR (Jeff Meier) last night of my 64PN7000..

Could you please share those calibrated settings? For the sake of other owners, who doesnt have the priviledge to get their sets professionally cqlibrated?
The settings from one display moved to another display of the same model will not give the same results. There is too much set to set variation for that to work. There was a guy selling his basic setting on the Internet with phone support to tweak the settings for each customer's display. He didn't last long.

If you want to try other settings and maybe try modifying them with a calibration disk you can probably find someone who has posted their own setting in this thread. You might be better off getting a calibration disk and just doing what those disks make possible.

If I were a professional calibrator, I wouldn't want the calibration settings for one of my customer's display being evaluated on a forum like AVS after those settings had been applied to another display.
post #3149 of 4279
I have a PN51E8000 still under warranty. I was wondering if I have a issue and have have to send my TV back samsung what process do I have to go through. Do they send UPS to pick it up or do I have to drop it off some where etc.?
post #3150 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksigdawg View Post

Hey guys, looking for some calibration info..... I have a 64 D8000 and at my advice a friend of mine just went out and bought a new 64 E8000. I just scrolled through 105 pages looking for people who had calibrated their sets and am surprised at how little info there is on here.
All I am seeing is CNET settings which everyone agrees are too BLUE and a recent post from someone who used a Disney WOW blu-ray.
Does anyone have any feedback on what settings are working best for them? With the D8000 there were a ton of professionals sharing advice daily which made it easy to tweak my set. I can't believe no one has had their E8000 professionally calibrated after they've been out for this long???
Thanks in advance for the help!
-Jason

Same problem here I have the PN51E8000. And I cant find any caliberation settings excepts cnet's. I've had my TV since may and I keep it on Dynamic for playing video games bluray etc. pm me if you find anything.
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