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Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 114

post #3391 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdwardLHall View Post

I recommend avoiding the 1046.2 update. It trashed my smart hub. Long delays, lockups and other bad behavior. I can hardly get Amazon instant video to work at all. Netflix seems to have survived though.
Mine works fine and is showing 1046.2. Amazon instant works flawlessly too.
post #3392 of 4279
Quote:
I'm about to purchase this TV (7000) in the next day or two, I've researched it to death and read this whole thread.

Are there any overwhelming negatives that would prevent you from recommending this TV? Like the lack of brightness recently discussed, or anything like that I may have missed.

Basically I'm down to this TV, or a Samsung LED like the 6500/7100, or waiting for next year. And I'm assuming most of you would recommend plasma over LED correct?

Thanks
I've had mine a little over a month now and I really like it. First, I should point out my previous tv was a crt. I never thought I'd buy a plasma until I started looking, again, at the leds. They have always looked harsh to me and I was never sure if it was the store setup or inherent in the design. One of the Magnolia employees was helpful (amazing, I know) in comparing both kinds, leds and plasmas, with the same (or at least as close as you can get just swagging in a store) setup. My biggest concern about the plasma, well two, were the image retention and how they deal with windows in the room. Our house has a lot of windows and there's no getting away from them. There's no doubt that a big slab of glass will reflect light, but it's a lot less than the crt and because it's flat it has one reflection point as opposed to the scattered reflection of a curved crt. I have a big window (6 ft wide) directly opposite the tv screen. If I watch in the day AND I must have the drapes open, I just angle the screen a bit and the light is bounced away from me. It's really far less an issue than I thought and I doubt the led would handle it any better. The magnolia guy claimed that the 7000-8000 and the high end panasonics had less reflective glass, but I was never able to corroborate that. They certainly appeared to reflect less of the light fromt the spotlights at the store.

On the IR front, I have seen some image retention. The most obvious was just recently and was cause by the tv itself while I was playing music over the wifi connection from the computer. The ALLSHARE graphic was still there after about 30 minutes of having the music playing. It didn't take very long watching other regular tv programs for the image to disappear, but it was concerning. I did not do any special slides etc to break in the tv, but I have been keeping the grey bars etc off by stretching 480 programs to the edges as much as possible. If only everything was 1080 16:9.

One more thing I will share because I was delighted when it worked. I have a Panasonic mt90 hd video camera. I have used the panasonic software that came with the camera to convert the native mt2s video to avchd mt2s video and then put it on a portable Transcend hard drive and then plugged that into the usb port (with auxiliary usb power) and had the video play on the tv.

I'm very picky about how things look and I think this has an awesome picture. I have it in Movie mode. I don't have a plethora of tvs in my house to do side by sides, but I have not been disappointed with my purchase up to this point. (Holding off on that firmware update smile.gif)
post #3393 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterG View Post

OK, here goes. Now I want to preface the following two links that I am well aware that European Samsungs (and Panasonics) are different in many ways to the US models. The following 2 reviews show the maximum luminance for the 51" :

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ps51e8000-201209042144.htm?page=Performance

To quote from this "In terms of brightness, the 51E8000 didn’t disappoint. Measuring a full 100% white window pattern, we managed to meet our target of 120 cd/m2 in the “Movie” mode, which is some 20 cd/m2 better than what we managed on the larger PS60E6500 (no doubt this is a size vs power consumption issue). That is 35 fL.

http://www.avforums.com/reviews/Samsung-E8000-PS-51E80000-64E8000-3D-Plasma-Smart-TV-Review_332/Review.html

"The E8000 can also boast a considerably higher maximum light output and we were comfortably able to get around 140cd/m2 in movie mode, without clipping." That is 40.86 fL

Now to a review from a North American site. I mention this site last as it is not a good site at all with some very strange ideas how to "calibrate" (they don't actually calibrate but merely use the normal user controls of contrast, brightness etc). However, they do allege that they use a colorimeter and a spectro.

http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/Samsung-PN51E8000-3D-Smart-Plasma-HDTV-Review/Picture-Quality.htm

From this page they show they obtained 166.53 cd/m2 which is equivalent to 48.60 fL.

Here are the settings they used:

http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/Samsung-PN51E8000-3D-Smart-Plasma-HDTV-Review/Calibration.htm

Edit: I removed a statement here talking about the panels coming from the same factory in Japan as I was thinking of the Panasonics. I assume Samsung have 1 or more factories in Korea for panel manufacturing.

Thanks PeterG. Your response was very detailed, that was very nice of you. Appreciate everyones responses, thanks guys.
post #3394 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

I calibrated a 51" NA e540 and it could do 50 ftL on a 10% area window. The primary knock on the e-series has been that it can not achieve the full field luminance level that either the d-series can or the 2012 panasonics.

zoyd, I know you read this thread since you posted in it. As a matter of interest, how much worse was the e540 compared to Chad's GT50 when trying various window sizes (full window as opposed to say 10% window size was reduced a bit over 50% with the GT50).

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1446386/abl-effects-measured-for-comparison/0_60
post #3395 of 4279
Does anyone know how to check how many hours the panel has been played. I have a gt50 but sold it to buy the e8000. hopefully i didnt make a wrong decision because i love my gt50 and the blacks on the gt50 is incredible. at the store i can tell the comparison of blacks and to me the gt50 had deeper blacks. i didnt really read through the thread because there was to much to read so if anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciated because this buy was a last minute thing and couldnt really take time to consider it because i got the tv for such a great deal. If anyone thinks im making the wrong choice from going to the gt50 to e8000 please explain thanks.
post #3396 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by j0hnnyyyy View Post

Does anyone know how to check how many hours the panel has been played. I have a gt50 but sold it to buy the e8000. hopefully i didnt make a wrong decision because i love my gt50 and the blacks on the gt50 is incredible. at the store i can tell the comparison of blacks and to me the gt50 had deeper blacks. i didnt really read through the thread because there was to much to read so if anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciated because this buy was a last minute thing and couldnt really take time to consider it because i got the tv for such a great deal. If anyone thinks im making the wrong choice from going to the gt50 to e8000 please explain thanks.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1426719/samsung-plasma-did-i-purchase-a-new-or-refurbished-set#post_22360050
post #3397 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterG View Post

zoyd, I know you read this thread since you posted in it. As a matter of interest, how much worse was the e540 compared to Chad's GT50 when trying various window sizes (full window as opposed to say 10% window size was reduced a bit over 50% with the GT50).

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1446386/abl-effects-measured-for-comparison/0_60

Full size 100% stimulus window on the e540 measured 12 ftL maximum.
post #3398 of 4279
I got my 60e7000 last week. I have some crazy buzz going on. I understand that a slight hum should come for the set but when I can get a loud directional buzz 15 feet away is crazy. It is so loud and noticable at ear level sitting down.
post #3399 of 4279
post #3400 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by j0hnnyyyy View Post

doesnt work i tried it

It works on my E8000. It doesn't work if you start with the TV volume at 0. The volume needs to be at 1 or 2 before you start with the mute. I never use my TV speakers so my TV remains at 0.
post #3401 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by j0hnnyyyy View Post

doesnt work i tried it

It does. I have done it with the 2 E8000s I had, others on this forum have done it and several in the UK with avforums.com have done it too. Is your TV on when you have done this?
post #3402 of 4279
okay i finally got it to work. does anyone recommend a certain break in slide because i downloaded dnice slides and evangelo slides and certain slides say they can not display on my e8000. so far i have had my e8000 for about two hours and definitely my gt50 had better blacks but hopefully by aging the panel and using settings from cnet itll get better in pq and blacks like my gt50. or does anyone know of any good calibrated settings i can use on my display? my room is pretty dim and only have one lamp on that i turn down to about half the lighting
post #3403 of 4279
one other question is my plasma buzzes should i worry because ive seen a lot of threads of people saying that their panels buzzes
post #3404 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by j0hnnyyyy View Post

one other question is my plasma buzzes should i worry because ive seen a lot of threads of people saying that their panels buzzes

Why worry. Not everyone has a buzz problem. Just call Samsung, your TV is still under warranty. You talk about your old TV like a hot ex. How about if you miss your old panny, return the samsung and get another panny? That's what I would do. cool.gif
post #3405 of 4279
just got pn51e7000..... my first plasma and LOVE it biggrin.gif !!! have a couple questions may be answered somewhere in here but my eyes are bleeding trying to weed thru all the BS hockey crap!!!
anyway, break-in period 100 to 200 hrs... big difference there! so what is best, 200? or more??? settings; movie mode, cell lt 5, contrat 38, bright 40, sharp 5, warm 2.... have these as low as possible as i assume the lower the better for break in?
please forgive me i am a bit in the dark ages here with BASIC Direct tv connected only thru antenna in... nothing connected via hdmi. so far no blu ray etc.. question is i can only set pict. size to zoom, not screen fit or wide fit. is this cuz i don't have HD Direct tv? I've tried all the other modes that i could find suggestions for, i.e. pixel off, movie mode, blah blah.... no luck. including changing set box at 4:3 & 16:9..... only thing i can think of is it is basic box, no HD and no hdmi connection.
any and all help is really appreciated smile.gif

p.s. zoom is sooooooo freaking annoying! direct tv basic box is not my choice, not my house, told by owner satellite dish would have to be changed to get HD box.....
Edited by ljmart - 2/1/13 at 12:50pm
post #3406 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljmart View Post

just got pn51e7000..... my first plasma and LOVE it biggrin.gif !!! have a couple questions may be answered somewhere in here but my eyes are bleeding trying to weed thru all the BS hockey crap!!!
anyway, break-in period 100 to 200 hrs... big difference there! so what is best, 200? or more??? settings; movie mode, cell lt 5, contrat 38, bright 40, sharp 5, warm 2.... have these as low as possible as i assume the lower the better for break in?
please forgive me i am a bit in the dark ages here with BASIC Direct tv connected only thru antenna in... nothing connected via hdmi. so far no blu ray etc.. question is i can only set pict. size to zoom, not screen fit or wide fit. is this cuz i don't have HD Direct tv? I've tried all the other modes that i could find suggestions for, i.e. pixel off, movie mode, blah blah.... no luck. including changing set box at 4:3 & 16:9..... only thing i can think of is it is basic box, no HD and no hdmi connection.
any and all help is really appreciated smile.gif

p.s. it's so freaking annoying! direct tv basic box is not my choice, not my house, told by owner satellite dish would have to be changed to get HD box.....

I'm not sure if you're serious here or not. If you're serious, you bought the wrong TV. If you are not providing an HD feed to the TV you might as well go down to walmart and buy the cheapest Vizo you can get.
post #3407 of 4279
yes i am serious... i didn't know the situation with direct tv until after getting this tv! sucks but not planning on staying here forever. so it seems i need to change the satellite? or live in the dark ages until i can move?! i am connected wirelessly, any recommendations for netflix or hulu or??? thx
post #3408 of 4279
Well, you may want to try some sort of HDTV Antenna (for free channels) and just use the Basic Direct TV for channels you don't get.

You can get a decent indoor HD TV antenna for less than $50 more or less depending on your location and distance to channels.

http://hdtv-antenna-review.toptenreviews.com

tvfool.com

I'd skip all of the cell light at 5, contrast at 38 etc. You're not really accomplishing anything that watching normal TV etc. wouldn't accomplish. Might even be aging slower since the phosphors are barely being pushed.

I've got Amazon Prime. Works fine. Similar to Netflix. Never had Hulu.

Good luck. We're all counting on you. smile.gif
post #3409 of 4279
If the OP is in a decent location relative to the broadcast towers, $10 rabbit ears will do. The 2nd best quality I ever got on my TV, after Blu-ray, was OTA with 20 year old rabbit ears.
post #3410 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljmart View Post

yes i am serious... i didn't know the situation with direct tv until after getting this tv! sucks but not planning on staying here forever. so it seems i need to change the satellite? or live in the dark ages until i can move?! i am connected wirelessly, any recommendations for netflix or hulu or??? thx

Sorry for my attack. I just couldn't imagine anyone these days not knowing the difference between an SD and HD feed. As Boondongle mentioned, try the antenna and base your decisions in the future compared to the quality of the OTA signal. I think you will find a standard definition signal from any provider is just unacceptable. If you're stuck with an SD signal for regular viewing, you might as well forget about tweaking any settings. If you have a BluRay player,enjoy the quality as it's as god as it gets.
post #3411 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by boondongle View Post

Well, you may want to try some sort of HDTV Antenna (for free channels) and just use the Basic Direct TV for channels you don't get.

You can get a decent indoor HD TV antenna for less than $50 more or less depending on your location and distance to channels.

http://hdtv-antenna-review.toptenreviews.com

tvfool.com

I'd skip all of the cell light at 5, contrast at 38 etc. You're not really accomplishing anything that watching normal TV etc. wouldn't accomplish. Might even be aging slower since the phosphors are barely being pushed.

I've got Amazon Prime. Works fine. Similar to Netflix. Never had Hulu.

Good luck. We're all counting on you. smile.gif

awesome, i can't thank you enough for this info!! i really appreciate it. i love the tv and trading it in for a piece o junk vizio (per someone elses response) is just not an option!
the settings advice makes perfect sense. cool, now i can actually see whats on!
good to know you have amazon prime. was checking that out and considering that one.
as a newbie, this thread was a bit intimidating, but found considerable useful info. thank you so very much for your help and advice.... on to checking out antennas!!
have a great weekend:)
post #3412 of 4279
[
Edited by ljmart - 3/29/13 at 10:47pm
post #3413 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieconway View Post

If the OP is in a decent location relative to the broadcast towers, $10 rabbit ears will do. The 2nd best quality I ever got on my TV, after Blu-ray, was OTA with 20 year old rabbit ears.

thank you very much for your response. i appreciate this info and will be checking out the antenna options. very good to know i might actually have a cheap option!
post #3414 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferl View Post

Sorry for my attack. I just couldn't imagine anyone these days not knowing the difference between an SD and HD feed. As Boondongle mentioned, try the antenna and base your decisions in the future compared to the quality of the OTA signal. I think you will find a standard definition signal from any provider is just unacceptable. If you're stuck with an SD signal for regular viewing, you might as well forget about tweaking any settings. If you have a BluRay player,enjoy the quality as it's as god as it gets.

thank you, i appreciate your updated response! i do know there is a night and day diff. just wasn't aware what dtv set up was here until i went to connect to it. needless to say, i was rather shocked to discover hd boxes aren't standard protocol! (i thought satellite was diff. than regular cable) my bad, just assumed it would be hd! i plan on getting bluray soon... then i can truly enjoy my beautiful new tv!! thanks again for the help....
Edited by ljmart - 2/2/13 at 11:19am
post #3415 of 4279
Hey all I am thinking about getting this TV (e7000). It seems like a great buy in the 60' category. Right now everyone seems to have it priced at 1595. Is that a smoking deal for this TV or is it generally about this price? I want to know if I need to jump on it or if I can wait a week or two. Thanks!
post #3416 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

Hey all I am thinking about getting this TV (e7000). It seems like a great buy in the 60' category. Right now everyone seems to have it priced at 1595. Is that a smoking deal for this TV or is it generally about this price? I want to know if I need to jump on it or if I can wait a week or two. Thanks!

I wish I could've got that deal. I paid over $300more back in November. Gotta love Superbowl deals.
post #3417 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdub5 View Post

I wish I could've got that deal. I paid over $300more back in November. Gotta love Superbowl deals.

So your saying jump on it? smile.gif Who do people recommend for online dealers? Crutchfield, amazon, etc? They all seem to be about the same price
post #3418 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterG View Post

OK, here goes. Now I want to preface the following two links that I am well aware that European Samsungs (and Panasonics) are different in many ways to the US models. The following 2 reviews show the maximum luminance for the 51" :

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ps51e8000-201209042144.htm?page=Performance

To quote from this "In terms of brightness, the 51E8000 didn’t disappoint. Measuring a full 100% white window pattern, we managed to meet our target of 120 cd/m2 in the “Movie” mode, which is some 20 cd/m2 better than what we managed on the larger PS60E6500 (no doubt this is a size vs power consumption issue). That is 35 fL.

http://www.avforums.com/reviews/Samsung-E8000-PS-51E80000-64E8000-3D-Plasma-Smart-TV-Review_332/Review.html

"The E8000 can also boast a considerably higher maximum light output and we were comfortably able to get around 140cd/m2 in movie mode, without clipping." That is 40.86 fL

Now to a review from a North American site. I mention this site last as it is not a good site at all with some very strange ideas how to "calibrate" (they don't actually calibrate but merely use the normal user controls of contrast, brightness etc). However, they do allege that they use a colorimeter and a spectro.

http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/Samsung-PN51E8000-3D-Smart-Plasma-HDTV-Review/Picture-Quality.htm

From this page they show they obtained 166.53 cd/m2 which is equivalent to 48.60 fL.

Here are the settings they used:

http://www.televisioninfo.com/content/Samsung-PN51E8000-3D-Smart-Plasma-HDTV-Review/Calibration.htm

Edit: I removed a statement here talking about the panels coming from the same factory in Japan as I was thinking of the Panasonics. I assume Samsung have 1 or more factories in Korea for panel manufacturing.

The only thing I'd like to add here is the brightness levels claimed are confusing and should be taken with a grain of salt..

Plasmas use dynamic drive systems and different size full white patterns will read different. So one calibrator/reviewer might use 10% sized patterns while another uses 1%. These will produce different numbers even though they are both the same peak white.

Then to make matters even more confusing. You can't cross compare. A vt50 calibrated to 30fl with 10% patterns will appear dimmer than a e8000 calibrated to 30fl using the same patterns. Why you might ask? It's due to the programming of the ABL and the dynamic drive systems. All of the manufacturers are different. Thus cross comparing is a bit more difficult than it might seem. Now if plasmas were actually very accurate with gamma across a wide range of APL this wouldn't be an issue, but they're not.

So when looking at these things from fellow board members or professionals... if the max brightness on a plasma is stated and they don't say what size pattern was used the data is almost worthless. As you can't compare it to other measurements without knowing this.
Edited by SiGGy - 2/2/13 at 12:57pm
post #3419 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

Hey all I am thinking about getting this TV (e7000). It seems like a great buy in the 60' category. Right now everyone seems to have it priced at 1595. Is that a smoking deal for this TV or is it generally about this price? I want to know if I need to jump on it or if I can wait a week or two. Thanks!

See if you can get it locally. It should be the same price. This television is under Samsung's 'Unilateral Pricing Protection'... authorized sellers agree not to go below the price they set. Buying locally supports jobs where you live.

B.T.W. The price on this TV has primarily ranged between 1997 and 1797. It only recently dropped to 1597. The problem now is availability. Get it while you can.
post #3420 of 4279
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

Hey all I am thinking about getting this TV (e7000). It seems like a great buy in the 60' category. Right now everyone seems to have it priced at 1595. Is that a smoking deal for this TV or is it generally about this price? I want to know if I need to jump on it or if I can wait a week or two. Thanks!
best buy has it for 1599 with free delivery
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