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Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 120

post #3571 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

1046.2 was available for download before Samsung reflected it on their website too.

On another note, I just udated to 1047 without a hitch. This is unlike 1046.2, which still showed 1041 after the update. During this period my TV was glitching. Ex: volume bar not showing, laggy response. It was not until the following morning the issues were resolved, and it showed 1046.2.

1047 showed the current FW immediately after the update. No known issues thus far; no glitches. 1047 is looking to be more stable already.

Is good to have test monkey for new FW, no?

I can't get 1047 to download it starts and gets to about 97% then I get error message it says it's not available on the server yet. I went to Samsung web site and its not there????
post #3572 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by theos2 View Post

FYI, I was updated to 1047 either last night or the night before.

Did you get it to download or did it do it automatically
post #3573 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

I have 1046.2 and have used a wired and wireless connection. I have never had this problem, so I doubt it is FW related or mine would do it too. Did you ever get the new mainboard? The wifi adapter is on the mainboard and might be bad. I suspect it could be the culprit. If it is FW related, perhaps there was an issue with your installation. Good luck.

If you can get your TV to stay on with an internet connection, try updating to 1047 and see if that helps.

It was triggered by the firmware update, but it's likely that there's some other contributing factor. (If not there would be more than a half-dozen or so such instances in this forum.) In my case, the motherboard was replaced & the issue remained so either I'm uniquely unlucky -- with spectacular consistency, on motherboards, or that's not where my trouble lies.

I can easily live another week or two with no Internet on my TV (my viewing content is pretty-much all networked through my Oppo anyway), so I'll let some of the other lab rats test 1047. smile.gif I'm fairly sure that Samsung will try to get to the heart of this problem and if it's not the firmware, they've already shown that they're more than willing to send techs to keep replacing parts until the matter is resolved.
post #3574 of 4151
Ran 1047 on my 51E7000 tonight. So far so good.

edit: touch wood...
Edited by boondongle - 2/16/13 at 12:37am
post #3575 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by boondongle View Post

Ran 1047 on my 51E7000 tonight. So far so good.

edit: touch wood...

I can't get the update to down load I get to about 95% then I get an error 0 saying the latest update is not available on server then I turned off my av receiver tried it again still doing the same thing then I unplugged my LAN then tried wireless still the same thing, is anyone else having this issue. I chatted with some one at Samsung they said there was no 1047 firmware update but if there is an issue with your firmware your tv will try to update a fix???? Is this true because I can't find firmware 1047 on the web site.
Edited by bargervais - 2/16/13 at 4:48am
post #3576 of 4151
I assume there is a way to load subtitles (.srt, .sub/idx) when playing videos off the usb ports.

On external media players there is usually a button on the remote, does anyone know how to show them in the e7000? TIA
post #3577 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by bargervais View Post

I can't get the update to down load I get to about 95% then I get an error 0 saying the latest update is not available on server then I turned off my av receiver tried it again still doing the same thing then I unplugged my LAN then tried wireless still the same thing, is anyone else having this issue. I chatted with some one at Samsung they said there was no 1047 firmware update but if there is an issue with your firmware your tv will try to update a fix???? Is this true because I can't find firmware 1047 on the web site.
Strange. What region are you in? Also, always take what a Samsung reps says with a grain of salt unless you have escalated the issue to ECS. They are pretty much under qualified and only bases their answers on what it says online at samsung.com. Only once your problem is escalated to ECS can you get actual answers from my experience.

Once the FW is posted online you should have no trouble updating via USB.
post #3578 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

Strange. What region are you in? Also, always take what a Samsung reps says with a grain of salt unless you have escalated the issue to ECS. They are pretty much under qualified and only bases their answers on what it says online at samsung.com. Only once your problem is escalated to ECS can you get actual answers from my experience.

Once the FW is posted online you should have no trouble updating via USB.

Thanks I'm in Florida Tampa bay area I will keep trying to update the firmware the only reason I want an update is my amazon app doesn't load all the time and hoping a new firmware will fix it it was working fine before the last update 1046.2
post #3579 of 4151
Just got a PN64E7000 home and set it up. I've watched a few blurays and I'm seeing something weird with motion. I'm admittedly not an expert, so you might have to help me find the right words to describe it.

The faster things pan, the more ghost-like the image looks. In one particular scene (Blow Out Criterion bluray, the scene where Travolta is in his editing room and the camera pans around the room several times from the center of it), I saw props in the scene look like they were flickering as they moved, kind of stair stepping across the screen. Other times it's a bit smoother, but still very ghost-like, like the screen isn't updating fast enough or something. It's hard to describe.

I have a 60GB PS3 connected to the screen via HDMI. Movie mode (with a few color tweaks based on the calibration disc I downloaded from this site), Game Mode is off, Cinema Smooth mode is on. The TV reports it's receiving 1080 24p signal.

It's very frustrating. Have to wonder if I, being a newb to home theater stuff, have simply screwed up some setting somewhere. I also wonder if maybe this is just normal and I'm not used to it.

Any advice on how to correct this?

I've noticed this behavior in every film I've watched, the most recent being three Criterion blu rays: Blow Out, Rushmore and The Game.

Thanks!
post #3580 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdwardLHall View Post

Amazon not loading after firmware update? Cycle power to the TV. Done.

I did that

I would choose amazon app it gets as far as a gray screen and locks up. I turned off the tv then turn it back on and it works, then later in the day it locks up again. if I unplug the tv after I power off the tv it works fine, but then it will do it again later. What a pain.

Here is An update when I select amazon app most times it will freeze so I wait about a min. Then I hit exit relaunch smart hub choose amazon app and then it will load without any trouble
Edited by bargervais - 2/17/13 at 12:10pm
post #3581 of 4151
Hello,
New owner went with Samsung E8000 over the Panny GT just because I already have a Panny and thought this thing looked fantastic (not that the Panny didn't). Anyway, couple questions.

How the heck can I check the hours on this thing? An internet search left me with try while on stand by it info-menu-mute power and try as might that doesn't work.
How for the love of god can I erase some of the memory to install some additional apps? It looks I have over 500mb of the 770? already filled and I have only downloaded two kids apps? What the heck?

I used the cnet settings for my picture Directv h24 source. If someone could point me in a new direction that would be great. Anything else I should look at do?

This community is always so helpful to people and people are significantly more knowledgeable than just some random posts on line.

THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
post #3582 of 4151
Had a friend who works in broadcast come over and take a look at my problem. Turns out I'm just seeing the judder caused by bad panning in 24fps. Nothing in my signal flow, nothing that can really be fixed. We forced the PS3 to convert output to 60fps and it's a little less jarring, but the frame interpolation also looks weirder, so I'll just stick with true 24p.
post #3583 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by introv3rt View Post

Had a friend who works in broadcast come over and take a look at my problem. Turns out I'm just seeing the judder caused by bad panning in 24fps. Nothing in my signal flow, nothing that can really be fixed. We forced the PS3 to convert output to 60fps and it's a little less jarring, but the frame interpolation also looks weirder, so I'll just stick with true 24p.

Are you using the 96hz mode on the E7000?
post #3584 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by introv3rt View Post

Had a friend who works in broadcast come over and take a look at my problem. Turns out I'm just seeing the judder caused by bad panning in 24fps. Nothing in my signal flow, nothing that can really be fixed. We forced the PS3 to convert output to 60fps and it's a little less jarring, but the frame interpolation also looks weirder, so I'll just stick with true 24p.
That is exactly as I suspected. You like the look of frame interpolation, like on lcd TVs. These TVs do not interpolate frames, it repeates them in 96hz mode. Also, these TVs will only show 24p if you PS3 is set for 24p output and CS must be turned on. If CS is off the TV will covert 24p back to 60hz, adding 3:2 pulldown despite the fact the TV says 24p in the upper left. With this in mind, you will never need to disable 24p mode on your PS3 because turning of CS will have the exact same effect. This is because these TVs only shows what the incoming signal is and not what is being displayed on the screen.

I highly recommend CS on so you can see your films in their native frame rate. It makes motion smoother. Turning off CS will not have a positive effect against motion judder. It introduces 3:2 pulldown. Judder will always be present due to movies being filmed at 24fps. It is in the source.

If any of this confuses you, Google 4:4 pulldown, 3:2 pulldown and frame interpolation.
Edited by Icon13 - 2/18/13 at 11:02am
post #3585 of 4151
I just pulled the trigger on a 60" Sammy E7000 (coming from an ST50, looking for a sharper image). I read that there were some issues with firmware updates on these TVs. Do these updates improve the picture quality of the set? I still haven't received my E7000, but was planning on waiting to update its firmware if some of you are having issues with that.

Does the TV automatically install the update when connected to the internet? Also, what picture settings do you guys think would be the best for this plasma? I've only found a few (CNET, flatpanelshd, etc). I'm assuming that settings for the E8000 and E7000 can be the same, correct? Thanks in advance!
Edited by lyrrad721 - 2/18/13 at 3:10pm
post #3586 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

That is exactly as I suspected. You like the look of frame interpolation, like on lcd TVs. These TVs do not interpolate frames, it repeates them in 96hz mode. Also, these TVs will only show 24p if you PS3 is set for 24p output and CS must be turned on. If CS is off the TV will covert 24p back to 60hz, adding 3:2 pulldown despite the fact the TV says 24p in the upper left. With this in mind, you will never need to disable 24p mode on your PS3 because turning of CS will have the exact same effect. This is because these TVs only shows what the incoming signal is and not what is being displayed on the screen.

I highly recommend CS on so you can see your films in their native frame rate. It makes motion smoother. Turning off CS will not have a positive effect against motion judder. It introduces 3:2 pulldown. Judder will always be present due to movies being filmed at 24fps. It is in the source.

If any of this confuses you, Google 4:4 pulldown, 3:2 pulldown and frame interpolation.

As a new 60E7000 owner, and one who also uses a PS3 as their BR source, I just want to make sure I understand the required setup for Cinema Smooth to work properly. I need to make sure the PS3 is set to output a 24progressive signal and I need to set the Sammy CS to on?

Another related question that I have, does CS have any effect on 3D sources? If so is it recommended for 3D?

Edit....
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyrrad721 View Post

I just pulled the trigger on a Sammy E7000 (coming from an ST50, looking for a sharper image). I read that there were some issues with firmware updates on these TVs. Do these updates improve the picture quality of the set? I still haven't received my E7000, but was planning on waiting to update its firmware if some of you are having issues with that.

Does the TV automatically install the update when connected to the internet? Thanks in advance!

I've had my TV for just over a week and haven't experienced any hassles at all with updating the firmware. However I do have my TV directly connected via ethernet to my DSL modem/router. Personally I did not have to fiddle with opening ports and setting things to a DMZ mode to get the internet related features to work as expected. The only issue I have, and I imagine it is simply bandwidth related, is that when trying to stream sample material from the 3D Content application it tends to hang up every few seconds.
Edited by icelt - 2/18/13 at 3:08pm
post #3587 of 4151
Yep, that's how I'm running it. PS3 outputting 24p, TV has CS turned on.

I'm an audio engineer, so my understanding of it is very much like sampling audio: I only want to resample between rates that are multiples of each other. So I record source content at 96kHz or 192kHz because my delivery target is 48kHz (and therefore the math is simple). CS mode on this TV is the same concept in reverse: source is 24fps, so refresh at 96 Hz, a multiple of 24.

I'll get used to the source judder. I'm starting to notice that it varies by film. I watched The Crow last night (good looking BR btw), and only noticed it in a few spots, it was very minor. I'm terrified of going to the theater again, worried I'll notice it there too smile.gif
post #3588 of 4151
I've been through most of this thread over the 4ish months I've owned this set and I thought I saw my issue mentioned but can't seem to find it. Sound keeps cutting out, only for a second, but it happens about 3-4 time an hour. I have everything hooked up to the receiver via hdmi, with one hdmi out to TV. It's happened using two different avrs and it never happened on my old TV. Just trying to eliminate if it's another piece of my home theater. It almost always happens when watching my DirecTV, but has occurred a few times watching BR movies. Anyone else have this issue. I've tried to ignore it but it's even starting to annoy my wife which is hard to do.
post #3589 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdub5 View Post

I've been through most of this thread over the 4ish months I've owned this set and I thought I saw my issue mentioned but can't seem to find it. Sound keeps cutting out, only for a second, but it happens about 3-4 time an hour. I have everything hooked up to the receiver via hdmi, with one hdmi out to TV. It's happened using two different avrs and it never happened on my old TV. Just trying to eliminate if it's another piece of my home theater. It almost always happens when watching my DirecTV, but has occurred a few times watching BR movies. Anyone else have this issue. I've tried to ignore it but it's even starting to annoy my wife which is hard to do.
Try a different HDMI input. Does the problem persist? Have you tried bypassing the avr and connecting your source directly to the TV?

I do recall one other poster with this issue burried somwhere in this thread.
Edited by Icon13 - 2/19/13 at 12:18am
post #3590 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by icelt View Post

As a new 60E7000 owner, and one who also uses a PS3 as their BR source, I just want to make sure I understand the required setup for Cinema Smooth to work properly. I need to make sure the PS3 is set to output a 24progressive signal and I need to set the Sammy CS to on?

Another related question that I have, does CS have any effect on 3D sources? If so is it recommended for 3D?
1) Yes.

2) CS on in 3d mode lowers the refresh rate from 120hz to 96hz through removing 3:2 pulldown. However, this reduction in refresh rate causes more flicker in bright areas of the scene IMO. I prefer it off for 3d. Some people have reported less crosstalk with CS on in 3d, but I have yet to witness any evidence of this.
post #3591 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdub5 View Post

I've been through most of this thread over the 4ish months I've owned this set and I thought I saw my issue mentioned but can't seem to find it. Sound keeps cutting out, only for a second, but it happens about 3-4 time an hour. I have everything hooked up to the receiver via hdmi, with one hdmi out to TV. It's happened using two different avrs and it never happened on my old TV. Just trying to eliminate if it's another piece of my home theater. It almost always happens when watching my DirecTV, but has occurred a few times watching BR movies. Anyone else have this issue. I've tried to ignore it but it's even starting to annoy my wife which is hard to do.
You may just be having handshake errors that cause multiple tries. Does the video cut out at the same time? Any cable or device in a HDMI chain can cause trouble. Which AVRs have you used, which TV do you have, and which source devices are you using.You might also have a minor contact problem with the HDMI cables. The fact that it sometimes happens rather than it happens every time, make me want to check cable connections first.

I'm assuming that DirectTV is either outputting 1080i or 720p. Does the DirecTV box have an option to send you the native resolution of the material that you watch -- 480i, 720p, or 1080i?

I'm also assuming that your Blu-ray player is outputting 1080p at 60 Hrz. Are you using your AVRs to convert the DirecTV input to 1080p 60 Hrz? Are your HDMI cables high speed? What gage are they? Sometimes the heavy gage cables will pull slight out of their port just from the weight of the cable. How long are the cables you're using?

That's a lot of questions, but they can all have a bearing on forcing HDMI handshake retries.

By the way, there is very little chance your TV is causing this problem on it's own.
post #3592 of 4151
I received my pn60e7000 last Thursday. Honestly its bugging the heck out of me.

The black levels seem to look the same as my old Samsung ln40a530.

How disappointing is that? I thought this TV based on extensive research would easily go deeper then my old low level LCD but I guess not.... Does your blacks look black? Maybe my set is defective? I'm confused
post #3593 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by lyrrad721 View Post

I just pulled the trigger on a 60" Sammy E7000 (coming from an ST50, looking for a sharper image). I read that there were some issues with firmware updates on these TVs. Do these updates improve the picture quality of the set? I still haven't received my E7000, but was planning on waiting to update its firmware if some of you are having issues with that.

Does the TV automatically install the update when connected to the internet? Also, what picture settings do you guys think would be the best for this plasma? I've only found a few (CNET, flatpanelshd, etc). I'm assuming that settings for the E8000 and E7000 can be the same, correct? Thanks in advance!
The odds are in your favor that an update will not hurt your TV. Just do it. There has not been a report of problems with 1047. Yes, it can improve PQ.

No, the settings are not the same for the 7000 and 8000. Furthermore, you should never borrow advanced settings anyways since each set varies.
post #3594 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

1) Yes.

2) CS on in 3d mode lowers the refresh rate from 120hz to 96hz through removing 3:2 pulldown. However, this reduction in refresh rate causes more flicker in bright areas of the scene IMO. I prefer it off for 3d. Some people have reported less crosstalk with CS on in 3d, but I have yet to witness any evidence of this.

Very good. Thanks for the feedback.


As a general FYI for others who are considering a near future purchase my 60E7000, ordered from Amazon in early February, was manufactured in Tijuana Mexico in October of 2012 and it does have a audible buzz that can be heard from 10 feet away in an otherwise quiet room. To be fair in my case the room is pretty bright acoustically, I don't have any drapes on the 4 nearby windows or a rug on the hard wood floor.
post #3595 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icon13 View Post

Try a different HDMI input. Does the problem persist? Have you tried bypassing the avr and connecting your source directly to the TV?
I do recall one other poster with this issue burried somwhere in this thread.

I'm gonna try suggestion 1 first. I'll see how it goes. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

You may just be having handshake errors that cause multiple tries. Does the video cut out at the same time? Any cable or device in a HDMI chain can cause trouble. Which AVRs have you used, which TV do you have, and which source devices are you using.You might also have a minor contact problem with the HDMI cables. The fact that it sometimes happens rather than it happens every time, make me want to check cable connections first.

I'm assuming that DirectTV is either outputting 1080i or 720p. Does the DirecTV box have an option to send you the native resolution of the material that you watch -- 480i, 720p, or 1080i?

I'm also assuming that your Blu-ray player is outputting 1080p at 60 Hrz. Are you using your AVRs to convert the DirecTV input to 1080p 60 Hrz? Are your HDMI cables high speed? What gage are they? Sometimes the heavy gage cables will pull slight out of their port just from the weight of the cable. How long are the cables you're using?

That's a lot of questions, but they can all have a bearing on forcing HDMI handshake retries.

By the way, there is very little chance your TV is causing this problem on it's own.

Lots of stuff here. Thank you. Appreciate your help. As I said above, gonna start with input change, hopefully it helps. Currently I have hdmi hooked up on my 60 e7000 into input 2, the ARC input. Hdmi is not heavy gauge. I've never put to much into hdmi cords. I always go pretty cheap, Amazon, since lengths are only about 6 ft. All my hdmi support 3d if that. means anything. I just switched to hdmi input 1. We'll see if that helps. Thanks to both of you for your help. Even you icon, considering you were a dick to me in the past. Haha
post #3596 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigchingan View Post

How long have you owned it, and did you just contact Samsung Support? Let me know how it goes. Basically, if the TV is as good as new. I live in the DC metro area, so I'm assuming they'd have someone come out.

Also, can you verify if the buzzing is the same afterwards? I'm assuming since they're only replacing the screen and not the internals that none of that will change.

Thanks!

Update: The first Samsung guy came out and took a picture of the dead pixel. Then they called me back and said they would replace it. Then the second guy came and said that they couldn't replace it for one dead pixel and the first guy was a moron.

So that was a huge waste of my time because I had to wait a week between appointments. I exchanged it for another E7000 through Amazon. The new TV looks good. It either buzzes less or I've grown used to it. I don't notice the buzzing on this one from my main seating when I have my speakers on, so I'm gonna keep this one.
post #3597 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle1234 View Post

I received my pn60e7000 last Thursday. Honestly its bugging the heck out of me.

The black levels seem to look the same as my old Samsung ln40a530.

How disappointing is that? I thought this TV based on extensive research would easily go deeper then my old low level LCD but I guess not.... Does your blacks look black? Maybe my set is defective? I'm confused

In a normally lit room, my blacks look pretty black. In a dark room, my blacks look dark, but definitely not black. I hear the Pannys are darker, but I don't want to deal with IR, so I'm just going to be happy with it.
post #3598 of 4151
Is anyone using ARC on this TV? My receiver supports it. Do I have to enable on the TV, or does it just work automatically? I don't see anything in the manual about it.
post #3599 of 4151
Quote:
Is anyone using ARC on this TV? My receiver supports it. Do I have to enable on the TV, or does it just work automatically? I don't see anything in the manual about it.

There is a setting under sound.

I don't remember the exact setting title, but it is towards the bottom of the sound sub menu. Read the description and you should catch it.

It is on by default out of the box.

You do have to have your HDMI cable in HDMI 2, as that's the only input that supports ARC.
post #3600 of 4151
Quote:
Originally Posted by ed3120 View Post

Update: The first Samsung guy came out and took a picture of the dead pixel. Then they called me back and said they would replace it. Then the second guy came and said that they couldn't replace it for one dead pixel and the first guy was a moron.

So that was a huge waste of my time because I had to wait a week between appointments. I exchanged it for another E7000 through Amazon. The new TV looks good. It either buzzes less or I've grown used to it. I don't notice the buzzing on this one from my main seating when I have my speakers on, so I'm gonna keep this one.

Where was your dead pixel? I was thinking of calling Samsung as I also have 1 dead pixel. I know they have some rule depending where it is. Something about it being right in the center of the tv being the decision maker of a replacement happening.
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