Official Samsung UNXXES6500 Owner's Thread - Page 9

I got my 2nd 60" es6500 today, after returning the 1st one due to horrible flashlighting and clouding. I am happy to report that the 2nd tv is significantly better than the 1st - only very slight clouding at the corners, barely noticeable. I think I can live with it. I've been reading this thread and others and am still on the fence about keeping it. The 1st I had to return but this one is decent, I have no big issues with the PQ except the usual blacks are not as black as can be complaint but that I can get adjusted to. No green halo so far.

So I'm still debating whether to return it and get a 60 inch Panasonic GT50. I'll get better PQ but at the expense of more glare (which could be a problem in my environment as I already have some from the es6500, which I've read is less reflective than the GT50), potential buzzing and losing on the great deal I got from FS on the Samsung - a package, which for the price of the TV plus $200 includes a stand, 5.1 HTIB and a camera, a value of about $1200. The GT50 will cost me the same as the whole Samsung package. Still trying to decide if the improvement in PQ is worth it. The thing is, I haven't actually compared the two to know the difference first-hand, I've only read the reviews, so I'm not sure that it would matter to me. I'd hate to "borrow" one from FS and return one of it or the Samsung package when I decide which one I like. Doubt that doing the comparison in store will give me the info I need. I'll try but am not that optimistic about it.

I actually returned my Samsung and got the Panasonic Gt50. Incredibly happy with the Panasonic. It has an anti-glare filter, so the glare isn't bad at all (at least in my living room). I think the extra $900 was well spent. I am now officially a plasma convert.

I bought the UN60ES6500 and they delivered it today. I've been putting it through its paces all day. I've been almost completely happy with it. There's only one thing that's worrying me. I'm a little concerned about the 3d. I am coming from a panasonic plasma viera 50" gt30, and went LCD/LED this time because of my experience with burn-in and image retention. I was afraid to play videogames on the tv. Anyway, that's besides the point. The 3d was good on the gt30.

I'm learning more about all these terms, and like I said, I'm concerned about the 3d on the new set. While watching Avengers 3d this afternoon, I felt there was too much shadowing/ghosting, which I guess is the term for crosstalk. Should I have gone 240hz instead of 120hz? I wasn't even paying attention to that when I went into Best Buy shopping for a set. I just gave them a list and a price range of what I wanted. Will 240hz have significantly less crosstalk than a 120hz set of the same model? Or is there anyway to lessen this with the current set? What's the price difference between the two? The Best Buy clerk went towards the real low end of the price range I gave him.

The next model up from the ES6500 is the ES7100, which has 240Hz and is $500 more at Best Buy. Not sure if going 240Hz will fix the crosstalk, I'm curious too what other members have to say about it. I've only watched How to Train your Dragon in 3D (oh and the Explore 3D shorts) and thought it was fine but I don't have any previous 3D experience to draw upon.

You paid an extra $900 for the GT50? I guess you had a smaller Samsung? Cause at Best Buy and Future Shop the GT50 is only $300 more than the ES6500 of same size.

Hey , i can help you with that,

first of all, as you know, the picture settings in 2D mode and 3D are different, so i want you to go into 3D Mode and tell me what you have the settings set to (backlight, sharpness etc etc), include the settings under the ADVANCED settings menu as thats the most important thing.

I've been changing settings all day trying different things. The manual that comes with the tv SUCKS, and the online PDF manual is pretty useless as well. So I've been trying just about every menu option out.

I eventually figured out that 3d has its own settings, but I'm not sure if this is what was the settings while watching The Avengers this afternoon:

Picture mode: Dynamic
Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 55
Color: 55
Tint (G/R): midway between G50 and R50

3d perspective: 0
L/R Change: L/R image
3D-2D: off
3D optimize: 0

Color tone: Standard
Digital Noise Filter: off
MPEG: Noise Filter: off
Auto Motion Plus: Smooth

The advanced settings is unselectable in 3d.

Previously owning a plasma, high contrast and any setting that's max'd out usually frightens the crap out of me, but for a 3d movie I'm willing to let that pass because its only for 2 hours at a time inbetween regular viewing.

advanced settings is available for 3D, just not under DYNAMIC mode,

so first of all change Dynamic to STANDARD in 3D mode, now, do the following changes to the picture in 3D MODE:

lower the backlight to 10 instead of 20,

lower sharpness to 20

contrast should be 100

brightness is fine at 45

color should be 50

tint should stay on default setting between 50 and 50.

dont change any of the specific 3d settings such as 3d optimize etc, leave these on default,

,color tone should be standard, digital noise reduction to OFF,, mpeg noise filter OFF, Auto Motion plus should be on STANDARD,

now under advanced settings, set DYNAMIC CONTRAST to HIGH, Black Tone to DARKEST,


now give some 3D Movie a go, you should have nice deep blacks and a great overall picture, try it out and let me know. be sure that ECO SENSOR is OFF under energy savings.
Edited by lamonsasa - 10/6/12 at 7:01pm

Going to give that a try. Thank you!

I was hoping the manual would shed some light on the differences between dynamic, standard, movie. When should and shouldn't they be used? I had no idea dynamic took options away from 3d.

That does look pretty good. Watching John Carter 3D(underrated movie, btw) with those settings now. I don't have Avengers in my possesion to see if this fixes what I noticed there. The problem that I was noticing was that things in the background seemed to be doubled, which I assume is a crosstalk problem.

Is it worth tweaking any of the 3d options? What's the optimization do or don't do?

u can play with the 3D settings to see what it changes, but i wouldn't recommend to do so..

Now, you can alternative between a few settings to see if it gives u a picture that you prefer and thats Changing DYNAMIC CONTRAST from HIGH to either Medium or Low and same for Black Tone, changing it from DARKEST to darker or dark and see whichever combanation you like.

i personally like dynamic contrast on HIGH and Black tone on DARKEST because it gives the picture great Pop and really good INKY black.

another thing i forgot to mention above, COLOR SPACE, you can set it to NATIVE or AUTO, by default its on Native i believe, thats what i have it set to..

Let me know which combo is best in your opinion when playing with DYNAMIC contrast and Black Tone.

sadly, after a few days of using the 3D settings on the 2D to eliminate the green halo problem in my 6500, the green halo has returned, still no where near as bad as in the first 6500 i got, but still, i think it boils down to that's to much money to pay for an imperfect picture. i dont think im going to bother with a calibration for this set, and i'll just exchange it. i was thinking of exchanging it for thE UN55ES6820. I REALLY WANT A 60", 3D, LED TV, and the 6500 samsung was the best deal out there, to keep those three criteria it seems i have to go down to a 55", which i imagine will be just fine.
sorry i couldnt have been more help to everyone.

Ok, what are some good normal blu-ray settings any some gaming settings? I have the motion set to smooth for gaming, which I *really* like, but is there any offset to it? I'm not noticing any lag with Borderlands 2 or Earth Defense Force 2017(both shooters). Should I be using dynamic for gaming instead of standard?

I've been extremely happy with videogames so far with the set even without knowing what does what, but I would like to squeeze out every bit of graphic goodness I can..

Alpha,i know i told you yesterday to set black tone to darkest, its actually if you turn black tone OFF, dynamic contrast you can leave on HIGH.

Watching Transformers Dark of the Moon, and everything looks pretty good. I really need to get the Avengers 3d bluray back to really know if this is making a true difference. I was changing settings left and right while watching that.

Edit: I'm noticing that the set remembers the Auto Motion setting from 2d to 3d.

Yes but i recommend you turn OFF black tone, did you do that? it will give you better shadow details and no crushed blacks.

Yep, did that after you recommeneded it, then I popped in Transformers Dark of the Moon to test it out. Looks good, but I need to buy my own copy of Avengers 3d so I can see if this helps what I saw there.

When is a good time to use the dynamic mode? And is there anything that gets turned off/on or is inaccessible if you use one of the picture modes?

when you use dynamic a bunch of settings are un changeable thats why i dont use dynamic, besides with dynamic clouding and flashlights are visible more than on other modes.

I bought a UN55ES6500 TV a few months back. I just recently noticed on movies or TV shows that have any prominent low end sound in them the TV speakers cause the chassis of the TV to vibrate. I ran the simple diagnosis sound test on the TV and of course the sound test has mid-high end sounds in the test and no low end. Is this normal for thin LED TV's? I didn't notice this when I first bought the TV. It's extremely noticeable if you choose "amplify", "music" or "movie" for the sound mode. I put the TV in "standard" (leaving the equalizer completely flat which is the preset setting )because it doesn't seem to be as bad in that mode most of the time. Today the TV was only on a volume of 30 in "standard" mode and while watching X-FACTOR some low end sounds in a song made the chassis vibrate. To me this doesn't seem normal. I had a Panasonic Plasma for years (bigger chassis) and never had a problem like this. Does this sound like the TV needs servicing? Thanks in advance for any help.

why would you use amplify? you cant use the SRS HD and TruDialog unless you are in the STANDARD sound mode anyway, i use the STANDARD mode for sound with the SRS features enabled, i also have auto volume enabled and set to NORMAL

do you have AUTO Volume Enabled? if so, what is it set to? NORMAL or NIGHT?

What is dynamic good for then? When I originally saw it as a selection, I figured it would be my go to for everything.

I always use "standard" and not "amplify". I just tried the various settings to see if the problem was common to all the settings or not. My settings are...


Sound mode - Standard

Sound effect - SRS TruSurround HD (OFF)
- SRS TruDialog (OFF)

Speaker Settings- Speaker Select (TV SPEAKER)
- Auto Volume (NORMAL)

Funny thing is that I just started using "Auto volume" recently, but I don't see where that could cause the problem.

why arent u using the srs sound effects?

i have auto volume on the same setting as you, it makes the volume louder and better i think.

My wife doesn't care for Surround sound at all. That's why I have them shut off.

Anyone else planning or has purchased the UN32ES6500FXZA?
I am making a purchase tonight to replace my old Samsung 22" TV in my room.
Any tips or suggestions would be awesome!

Thaks!

Hey guys, just joined the forum after my purchase of a returned open item 40es6500 from Best Buy for $300! It is missing the stand and has a broken coaxial input(who needs that). I strongly suggest always checking out the returned item aisle and offer a low ball price, this was listed at $700. Even gave me a 5 year warranty for only $60 extra on it.

I must say I am very pleased so far! Going to try out a few of the settings listed in this forum.

Anyone have a stand they no longer need and would like to sell via paypal?

Also anyone having trouble with HBO GO? Says I need to update system, tried that still not working?

Thanks,

Sam

Can anyone tell me the difference between the ES6800 and the ES6710 ????

Thanks

I have the stand from my UN55ES6500 which, assuming fits your model, you can have for free but for the cost of shipping.
It only weighs a pound or two, so depending where you are in the USA that might be around $5-$8 total for shipping.

Wrooster

Bought my own copy of Avengers 3d and watched it last night. I understand the options a little more now, and was able to get a better picture than my first view, but I'm still seeing some odd shadowing going on with the background in a lot of the scenes even with the suggested settings(again, thank you for that, it helped me learn more about how the set works). I'm starting to wonder if this is just how 3d is on an LED/LCD set. I re-iterate my original question, will 240hz make a difference? I'm not noticing any flicker, it's just I think that while the 3d wasn't anywhere near as vibrant on my GT30 plasma, the 3d effect on it seemed a bit more....cohesive? than it does here on the Samsung.

If that's the way it is with this type of set, and that's an advantage of plasma, I'm ok with it because I have vowed to never own another plasma set after the burn-in and image retention issues I had with the GT30. I'd just like to know if upgrading the set will address what I'm seeing before the return policy runs out.

No, 240hz would not have anything to do with that " shadowing" you are seeing, if you saw motion blur then yes 240hz would help but otherwise no.

Let me ask you think, what do you have the backlight set to in 3D Mode? is it still at 10 or you changed it? is black adjust enabled or disabled, whats dynamic contrast set to in 3D mode?

make sure sharpness is no more than 20.