or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build - Page 6

post #151 of 286
post #152 of 286
What's the difference in a 3006 and a 3106? Glad you finally found one!
post #153 of 286
Thread Starter 
Lutron tells me the 3106 is just the newer version. No difference other than that.
post #154 of 286
Thread Starter 
For the GE owners out there. I know you can run Cat6 to the GE to wire in the IR. My question is this, from a code standpoint I know you aren't supposed to mix high and low voltage wiring. How do I run the Cat6 to my GE and not have it violate code?
post #155 of 286
I think the last few posts in the GE thread mention using 3M heat shrink tubing that's appropriately rated. It's also mentioned to use a piece of the outer jacket form a piece of Romex to cover the LV cable. It's really going to depend on what makes your inspector happy, though.
post #156 of 286
Thread Starter 
Update: HVAC was roughed in last Friday. I have a few odds and ends left them we'll be ready for rough in!!!
post #157 of 286
more pictures please smile.gif
post #158 of 286
Thread Starter 
I will update pics tomorrow.
post #159 of 286
post #160 of 286
Thread Starter 
Ha! I took them just didn't upload them. Here you go. Not much to look at but the duct work and the unit is installed!

Took them with my iphone so I apologize for the lack of clarity in some.
post #161 of 286
Thread Starter 
Ok, time to start making some more decisions. If I am looking at the front wall of my theater there will be a 36" door opening to the left of the screen. I plan on building my false wall adjacent to that door casing. So if my wall is 18'6" and I subtract the 36" door opening and account for some moulding I should have about 15' of false wall to build. If I take the golden rule of staying 18" away from the wall with my speakers that give me 12" of space for my screen.

My question is this, 144" seems like a massive screen with my front row being somewhere around 10'6" - 11'. I had been thinking 120-130" all along. I ran my wires for my projector to mount at about 17'.

What am I missing?
post #162 of 286
My first row viewing distance is 9' 6" with a 120" screen. I don't think I'd want any larger so 120"-130" I think would be a good range for your distance. Of course it depends on what you like. Most of my family actually prefers the back row, I find that less immersive except for shaky movies like Cloverfield
post #163 of 286
Thread Starter 
Design1st, do you know the distance for your projector?

I am getting close to drywall so I am also trying to narrow down my projector choices and finalize my screen size so I can decide where to run my power and LV wires to the projector. Currently I have them at about 17' from the screen.

I was looking on Projectorcentral.com and it seems like based on budget and needs the Epson 8350 would be a great choice for me and based on their calculator for a 130" screen that would be mounted at about 20'.
post #164 of 286
I think your screen size and viewing distance will be fine. My plan is for a 144" wide 2.35:1 screen, with the first row at about 11 feet away.

My last theater had a 120" diagonal 2.35:1 screen with the first row at about 10 feet.

The issue I am worrying about is the projector to use to get the picture quality I want, as well as sufficient light output to achieve at least 12 foot-Lamberts (hopefully more like 16) on the screen, real word (they all lie about their projector lumens output.) The room is totally light controlled (no windows) so there is that, but the projector throw is about 20 feet.
post #165 of 286
Thread Starter 
Based on the Calculator on Projectorcentral I can get 14 foot-Lamberts if I leave the projector alone at 17' but that would be an image width of only 111". How does that change if I leave it at 17' but I want a 130" image?
post #166 of 286
Yes. A Foot-Lambert is essentially lumens per square foot, for this purpose. So if you spread the available light over a larger area, the brightness is reduced. One way to overcome this is to use a screen with some "gain". A gain of 1.3 over reference white is a typical HT screen, and they go as high as 2.0 or 2.5. The higher gains tend to have hotspotting, directionality problems, etc.
post #167 of 286
Thread Starter 
I plan on using the Centerstage XD AT screen material from Seymour. They state a gain of 1.2 so with that in mind do you see a flaw in my plan of getting the Epson 8350 or something similar and mounting it at 17' with a 130" screen resulting in 11fL? Or would I be better served to do a 120" screen, mount the projector at 18'6" which would give me 13 fL?
post #168 of 286
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Design1st, do you know the distance for your projector?

I'd have to measure to be certain but I'd say the lens is about 13' back from the screen.
post #169 of 286
Here is a comparison of screen materials

Note the they measured CenterStage XD at 0.93 gain, "real world",

Typicaly, you find similar results when you read projector reviews where they have measured the light output.
post #170 of 286
Thread Starter 
Any thoughts on my question?
post #171 of 286
My concern would be the 13FL is based on the full power, max brightness setting which may not give you the colors or black level you are looking for. Then again depending on what you prefer 13FL may be too bright if you plan on keeping the theater bat cave dark.

I currently run my PJ in eco mode on normal setting which with the bulb new would output 646 lumens. In my theater that is plenty bright for me. If I use projector central’s calculator it says I’d have 15FL for my distance/size but I’m betting that is with full power in the highest setting (Dynamic). I also bet my screen isn’t close to 1.0 gain, I’d say 0.8 as it is darker than my old painted wall. Add into it that I'm on the shorter throw for my PJ and it probably adds some brightness back in.

I’m pretty sure if I jacked it up that high it would wash out my blacks and be way too bright for me. I guess I could always try that however, I find the dynamic setting has poor color reproduction.
post #172 of 286
Thread Starter 
So based on that do you think I need to move the projector forward? I'm a noob when it comes to projectors but what are the issues with moving the projector forward and maintaining the image size?
post #173 of 286
When you move the projector forward, you need to check that your screen size is within the limits of the zoom lens on the projector at that throw distance. Use the calculator at http://projectorcentral.com to determine that.

Also, if you are using an anamorphic lens for side screen, there are limitations on how close your projector can be to the screen.
post #174 of 286
If you're still set on the 8350 and are concerned about brightness, you can move way forward as it has a wide and usable range. Going to 15' would give you 16-17fl max for a 130" 16:9 screen, and still be well in the zoom. This distance is also comfortably within the focus and throw ratio recommendations for something like a Panamorph a-lens.

I have the 8350 and will be using it to throw a 115" 2.35 image from about 10.5' back, through a Panamorph CineVista. The lens hasn't arrived yet, but so far all good with 16:9.
post #175 of 286
Thread Starter 
I'm not set on any projector. I plan on using a 130" Seymour screen. I have my wires run to the 17' location now but I don't have drywall up so now is the time to change anything if needed. I mentioned the 8350 because it seems to fit in the budget and the specs look good.
post #176 of 286
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Have you considered the refrigerator will raise the noise floor of the room?

I have mad.gif
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

I have and I'm going to look for the quietest one I can find.

Wondering if you have made any progress on this front ? I too will have the same issue and looking at alternatives or solutions.
post #177 of 286
Thread Starter 
There is one I found from wine enthusiast. We'll see on that though. I bought a four year old GE glass door beverage center that needs a new compressor for $50 recently off of CL that a friend is going to fix for me. If that works I will deal with any noise it makes for the low cost.
post #178 of 286
re: fridge. I have a small wet-bar refrigerator in my room. My room is pretty big and it's a good ways away from the seating position but I still worried about it. Generally the PJ is louder than it is. But, I use the Lutron RadioRA2 lighting control system. I like it very much. They make a in-line module capable of carrying the load of the small fridge. If the noise bothered me, or raised the noise floor too much I was going to add the module to the fridge and add it to my remote system's control logic. e.g. press "play" and it will cut power to the fridge. Stop or system off, etc. turn the power back on. My fridge has an icemaker so having it turned off for a couple of hours isn't a big deal. But all that said, its noise has not compelled me to implement.
post #179 of 286
I bought an under counter wine fridge and its so noisy that I can hear in the next room when it comes on. It's a U-Line. Not recommended. I need to get right up close to the big 48" fridge to hear it and never notice it when I'm in the room. Love the big fridge, although it would be overkill for a HT / lobby Be careful with the small fridges when it comes to noise.
post #180 of 286
Yes, and if it's for wine, note that wine fridges that I looked it didn't get cold enough for drinks (coke, beer)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build