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Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build - Page 2

post #31 of 286
What speakers? With the room's size growing, speaker selection is going to be important with the second row being around the seventeen foot mark.

+1 for centering the screen, and multiple subs...

Is the screen also growing in size, with the room? Will the projector be able to properly light up the screen?
post #32 of 286
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Are you thinking I should put in-wall subs in the unfinished spaces to even out the bass?

You would use regular in-room "big box" subwoofers, but put the "big boxes" in the unfinished space, with openings in the walls for the subs to fire into the room. You would essentially frame and drywall cubby-holes that are open to the theater and extend back into the unfinished space. Probably need to be front-firing subs. Installed, the front of the subs will be flush with the theater wall, but the bulk of the subs' cabinets will be in the unfinished space.

Is that understandable? It's hard to describe this with words instead of just sketching it.
post #33 of 286
Thread Starter 
I haven't picked out components at all. I have contemplated a 120" screen. As far as speakers and such I figure I need to finalize the layout before I worry about it. I could always do a 9.2 or add additional amps to fill the space.
post #34 of 286
Thread Starter 
Here are my updated plans. I have been away for a few weeks. My wife totalled her car so my free time has been spent looking for a new one. She is ok, just a sore back.

Attachment 245202
post #35 of 286
Glad to know your wife is ok, that had to be scary!

New version looking better! Just a quick look, but one thing I'd think about is the area behind the bar, and the wet bar itself:

Maybe bring the platform construction all the way back, but not against the wall (1/4" gap). The stepup behind the bar seats looks a tad dangerous! You can bring it in a bit to clear the door at the entrance.

A wet bar is something I wanted, too, but to get a really nice, QUIET, fridge, is difficult to do cheaply. And the dimensions will be a bit wider than what I see there (just eyeballing and rough guestimating). Not to mention plumbing into the space, which adds more areas for sound to escape, come in. That's one part I'd definitely think hard about , and do some mockups with dimensions of items you might have in mind.

Other than that, looking great!
post #36 of 286
Thread Starter 
Thanks Tobe. I still want to take you up on that invite to see your theater.

The only reason I have avoided bringing the platform all the way back was to keep the door to the HVAC on the left on ground level. I guess I could always cut that door down. I too am a bit worried about the step down being behind the bar seating. I think it could spell disaster if someone rocks back or moves their chair back too much and falls. I thought about putting a wall behind the riser there to avoid the falling backwards risk.

I was thinking about using a mini fridge in the bar. I will definitely look into some specs on them. The other possibility would be to put a wall up to the ceiling after the 2nd row and having the bartop in an opening about midway up that wall. The only issue there is that the seats still need to be at riser height I think.

Did you isolate your floor from the joists below? If so how? If not, what did you use to dampen the floor?
post #37 of 286
Absolutely, just give me a head's up!
For the access to the AC area, you can still keep that "aisle" on either side of the platform, it would just be a step-down on both sides of the bar. That way the doors on both sides can remain standard doors-to-the-floor.

I didn't really do much flooring isolation, it was too cost prohibitive for me. What I did do was isolate the stage, the riser, and the steps around the riser via Auralex Uboats, and filled with the SoftTouch insulation. Then, I had the carpet guy put in the denser underlayment (similar to what's used in apartments) to help deaden the sound. It helps quite a bit, but not to 100% sound isolation from the first floor.

For the fridge, if you go that route (I was also looking at the mini-fridges), there's some really nice ones that can be built into a wall, flushmounted as it were. That's another option, albeit rather expensive. Does look neat, though, with blue indicator lights...

Keep at it!
post #38 of 286
Thread Starter 
Thanks. Did you look into using Sheetblock on the floor from Auralex? I was thinking about possibly putting it down and then doing another sheet of OSB on top. I like the idea of using the U boats on the stage and riser steps. I will definitely do that for the cost, it's well worth it.
post #39 of 286
Actually, I did, but at the time it was cost prohibitive, especially since I (reluctantly...!) had to build the rest of the second floor, too. Since you're bare bones at the moment, it might be worth looking into, for a bit more isolation. Check out the acoustics thread(s) and see if anyone had good luck with second floor sound isolation using that. If I remember, there's a couple of versions of it, according to thickness. I think it will help, but also may be more for isolation of footsteps, "thumping", etc. Keep in mind weight considerations, plus thickness for your door jamb clearances, too. Although, if you use exterior grade doors, the threshold will be pretty high to begin with, so that might be a non-issue.

post #40 of 286
Thread Starter 
I'm trying to think through the issues regarding my rack placement in this layout. The rack will be mounted in the wall facing into the back of my theater. The room the rack will be in is a dormer that is currently unfinished but I plan on insulating it and putting up drywall. Should I put a HVAC vent in that room or should I just put a temp controlled exhaust fan? There will be a door on the rack room because it will face out into unfinished storage. I worry with the door on the rack room that there won't be enough airflow into the room to cool the components. I would like the keep the noise from the rack at a minimium in the theater if possible.

One alternative would be to finish out the dormer and also finish the area where the dormer window is and put a vent near the window so the whole area gets some airflow and then just put the exhaust fan above the rack.

post #41 of 286
Thread Starter 
Tobe I sent you a PM.
post #42 of 286
Thread Starter 
Here is my most recent floorplan revision. It is starting to take shape (in my mind at least). I met with an electrician yesterday that says he can run me a new 60 amp subpanel into the unfinished space for only $400. Sounds great to me.

1. I have moved the door accessing the HVAC because it is being relocated to the end closer to the screen so that the refridgerant line won't cost as much when they run the new one. So now I have more space on the back half of my riser. Should I curve the bar or tie the wet bar into the bar top seating somehow?
2. I am going to place my rack in a dormer that is roughly 3' wide. I plan on putting a thermostat controlled exhaust fan in that area. Is there anything I should build into the plans to ventilate that area?
3. Will it be a huge inconvenience to have to open a door and go into the rack every time I want to put in a blu ray?
4. I have decided I will not be pulling up the existing OSB so the floor sound isolation issues are still present. What should I do beyond a second layer of OSB with GG in between? Should I do MDF instead of OSB with GG in between? What about roofing felt or MLV on top of second layer?
5. Lighting - for those of you that did not do cans in the ceiling, do you wish you did? I have thought about removing all cans and just doing some LED puck lights in the soffit like I have seen on here. My worry is that won't be enough light to clean up in there. Any issues with doing dimmable pendant lights over the bar top table in the back?
6. Should a 60amp subpanel be enough? I also have a 15 amp overhead light and a 20 amp GFI in that area already.

We should be pulling permits in the next 2-4 weeks. It's go time!
post #43 of 286
Thread Starter 
post #44 of 286
Thread Starter 
post #45 of 286
I suspect that a 60 Amp subpanel will be more than enough - remember that is 60 A @ 240 Volts, or 120 A @ 120 Volts. I used a 60A in my last theatre (that is really the smallest size panel easily available) and also ran an electric strip heater off it.

The other big advantage of the separate subpanel is that it give you a good common ground for the room. Make sure that all outlets in the room are fed from it -- this will help avoid ground loops.
post #46 of 286
Thread Starter 
Thanks Lebon. I thought it would be good enough. Good point on the ground loop also. Thoughts on the revised floorplan or possibly tying the bar into the bartop table?
post #47 of 286
I think tying the seating bartop into the wet bar would be too restrictive -- I like it the way it is.

Your rack room may be too small to get behind the rack (unless you are planning a pull-out rack). Also, remember to provide for cooling of the equipment room.

I would go for a wider screen than what you have drawn, also.
post #48 of 286
Thread Starter 
I don't own any of the equipment for this room yet. I would like to build the room and then buy the equipment. I will decide on the screen size after I buy my PJ. As of now I'm thinking 120" or larger and possibly a scope but I won't be using an anamorphic lens unless they get cheaper. I could mount the rack so it is accessible from the theater and then the room would only be used to get behind it.
post #49 of 286
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

I could mount the rack so it is accessible from the theater and then the room would only be used to get behind it.

That would be my preference.
post #50 of 286
Thread Starter 
Ok, quick update. I just got the draft back from my engineer last night. Looks like the room will be 17.5'x27' with 9' ceilings. Any reason to change that? Now is the time to do it if so before he finalizes the drafting. Also, I got 5 Berkline 13175's for $800 delivered today! Sweet deal on a local closeout. I got 4 left arms and the last two arm they had. I will need atleast one more two arm later but I can wait. When I get a final draft I will upload a floorplan pic then I will start framing.
post #51 of 286
Thread Starter 
Ok time for some updates. I have my plans now from the engineer. I also have my supply list for framing and should be ready to frame this in the last week of October. Here are some pics of what it looks like now and what the plans are.
post #52 of 286
Thread Starter 

post #53 of 286
Thread Starter 
Any thoughts on the plans?
post #54 of 286
Have you considered the refrigerator will raise the noise floor of the room?
post #55 of 286
Thread Starter 
I have and I'm going to look for the quietest one I can find.
post #56 of 286
Thread Starter 
Planning on moving that air handler to the area above it on Columbus day. Time to make some progress!
post #57 of 286
Thread Starter 
Air handler is now moved on top of the back wall seen in the picture. I have to put down a few sheets of OSB and then we are ready to frame it. Question for the construction guys out there. Do you know any reason why I can't/shouldn't remove the horizontal bracing seen in the next to last picture and move it up one foot? That brace is currently at 8' and I am running my ceiling joists at 9' for my 9' ceiling. I essentially just want to pull that brace off and reinstall it one foot higher.
post #58 of 286
post #59 of 286
Thread Starter 
All, when I place by 2x4" stud walls should I put anything under them or should I anchor them directly to the OSB below? It was cost prohibitive for me to do double layer of OSB with GG in between and it will also be too much for DD with GG. I'm just wondering if there is any benefit to putting some type of roofing felt or rubber product in between the studs and the OSB layer?
post #60 of 286
Thread Starter 
Let the fun begin!
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