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Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build - Page 3

post #61 of 291
post #62 of 291
Thread Starter 
Finished the framing of the theater. I am now finishing framing the adjacent office space. Looks like the finished theater dimensions will be 18.5'x29.5'x9'.
post #63 of 291
not done without posting pics cool.gif
post #64 of 291
Thread Starter 
Here are some of the pics. Took them with my iphone. I'll try to get some better pics with my camera soon.

post #65 of 291
Thread Starter 
I don't know why it did that.
post #66 of 291
Thread Starter 
Need electrical help! I have an electrician coming to give me a bid tomorrow. I am trying to figure out how much light I need in the theater. My room will be 18.5'x30'x9'. I was thinking 8 cans in the ceiling with backer boxes, a fake soffit around the room with some 2" puck lights, pendants in the bar area, track lights behind the AT screen, 4 sconces on the side walls, step lights and LED rope in the soffit. What size should I use for the 6-8 cans? Will the 2" pucks give me enough of a screen wash or should I put three cans right in front?
post #67 of 291
Thread Starter 
No comments? Come on guys. I've searched and looked at all of the threads I just need some clarity.
post #68 of 291
Hello wraunch,

I really like the size and layout of your space, it will be a great theater. On the can lights, were you thinking of going with 4 rows of 2, like pairs in front of the first row, above each row and two in the bar? I would go with cans at least 5 inches and maybe 6. I just installed 5 inch cans in my small bar and they put out alot of light but, in the theater and at 9 feet you may want a larger size. I used 12 puck lights on my fiber optic sky box and am impressed with how much light they put out. I've seen others use them in soffits and they look great. Whether they would be sufficient to wash your screen would probably depend on how close your soffit is. Most people seem to be using can lights for that. At 120 inch screen size I would put in at least 3 cans. I used 6 sconces in my theater which is only 17 feet deep. They don't put out as much light as I expected, of course that is affected by the sconce glass and room colors too. Pendant lights would look great above your bar. I hope this helps.

post #69 of 291
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking maybe 3 6" cans at the screen. I was thinking maybe a row of 4 6" cans above the first and second rows of seating and one more row of maybe 4 above the bartop seating with pendants above the actual bar. I don't really need a soffit in the room as all ductwork is in the ceiling. I have to box in around a header for one ceiling joist. I have thought about starting a soffit off of that to allow me to mount some Led rope lights inside of some crown. I am getting electricians to bid out the work this week so I have to nail down my lighting setup fairly soon.
post #70 of 291
Thread Starter 
All, I have some questions about the soffit. I am going to build it during construction. I have an angled ceiling for about 16 inches down from the rafter on one side of the room. I figured I would just build the soffit 16 inches down and out from the wall about 16 inches. Does anyone have some good instructions or pics for building a soffit as part of new construction? I'm not going to extreme lengths on the soundproofing so please save those recommendations. Any ideas?
post #71 of 291
Thread Starter 
Ok, so trying to do some more planning work. How do I best determine the size screen I will need? I plan on buying a projector in the $2K-$3K range most likely. My first row will be about 11.5' from the screen. My screen wall will be about 15' wide and I plan on doing a false wall with the speakers behind it. The room is 30' long and I will have a second row on a riser and additional bar top seating behind the riser.
post #72 of 291
Thread Starter 
Any clue why I get tons of views on my questions and no responses? I can't be the first to ask these questions. What gives?
post #73 of 291
Thread Starter 
Here are some more pics. Maybe this will drum up some comments.

post #74 of 291
Looks pretty cool! I remember those slopes in the ceiling! You're just about ready for wiring now!
post #75 of 291
Thread Starter 
Thanks Tobe. I think I will drop my soffit down to where you never know the angles were even there. The only framing I have left is the soffit, headering (is that a word) off where the av rack will go and finishing framing in my dormer in the new bedroom/office.
post #76 of 291
Something to think about: where you might attach something to the wall now or later, put up some blocking. Basically, some 2x4's between the studs to make it easier to attach something. Of course, you have a lot of access, like me, behind your walls, so that might not be as imperative right now. Still, helps to do it from this side versus inside the spaces. Also add at least a utility light to each of your closed off spaces (which is code anyway, depending on the size of your "attic" spaces). Stuff you probably already know about, but doesn't hurt to mention while I'm thinking about it!

Good luck, can't wait to see more!
post #77 of 291
Thread Starter 
Thanks Tobe. Here is an updated floorplan that shows some of my lighting ideas.

layout.pdf 445k .pdf file

What do you think, too many cans, not enough? I plan on putting keyless light fixtures on switches in the various storage areas. I'm debating what type of light to put in my AV closet. It's going to be cramped so I'm thinking maybe a LED can or two since they won't generate heat.
post #78 of 291
Looking pretty cool! I know you're excited! For my own preferences, I'd have the lights over the bar and nearest the screen adjustable, to be able to pinpoint on the screen or top of the bar. I hid lighting track behind a soffit-like ledge for the screen spotlights, and just used a tracklight that had fixtures that looked like old movie lights for the bar. The rest of the area is lit up by sconces in the columns, and a bit from the rope lights in the lowered crown. Those two sets of lights can be pretty small, as they don't have a lot to light, with the middle set for when you want to light up the whole place.

Also, it might be a good idea to run an A/C duct to your equipment closet, with a vent at the bottom of the rack to return the air, kind of like a door with a wide gap at the bottom. It can be screened, of course, but experiement to make sure you don't have a rush of sound! Position it over the rack and that will help with cooling, too. Any light will be fine in there, even a couple of lamps pointed at the rack, since you shouldn't be spending an inordinate amount of time there. However, fluorescents are going to be extinct soon, so LED's, though expensive are the wave of the future.

You may already have a way, but consider an access to behind your screen, to get to your speakers. From the office would be fine, witha small access panel perhaps.. That way you won't have to move the screen to get to your speakers if and when you do!

Those rear surrounds seem a bit far back, perhaps consider ceiling mounted or in-ceiling types that can be pointed forward and down a bit. Just an observation!

Keep at it!
post #79 of 291
Thread Starter 
I could always do something like this on the screen and bar.
or this

As far as access, I plan on doing removable panels on my screen wall like you did. I should be able to shimmy back there.

I am in complete agreement about the rear channels. I will probably end up going in ceiling as a result.

I am still debating the supply line into the rack. I guess if I damper it to where I can completely shut it off in the winter to avoid heat being blown in there it should be ok. I plan on putting a grate in the bottom of the door to the back of the rack to allow for a good air exchange and I will have a 4" supply line going to the sitting area just outside of the av room.

Keep the thoughts coming!
post #80 of 291
Exactly! I like the recessed ones for the screen washes (by the way, you can get different levels of "focus" for the bulbs, like 15 degrees, etc. And 1000bulbs.com is another great source for all things lighting) and the other ones for the bar, or use the recessed ones for both. Also, just a thought, but with the amount of lights you have in the soffits, you might not even need those middle can lights. That would reduce the amount of holes in the room, save you room for some ceiling acoustic treatments if you like, and still keep it pretty cozy.
post #81 of 291
Thread Starter 
I might cut down the ceiling lights to about 6 total and probably do fewer pucks in the soffit.
post #82 of 291
Thread Starter 
Small update, after a few insane bids I have decided to do my own electrical with the help of a guy I know that has done electrical work for 10+ yrs. also I picked up two global cache gc100s of the bay for $29/each.
post #83 of 291
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Small update, after a few insane bids I have decided to do my own electrical with the help of a guy I know that has done electrical work for 10+ yrs. also I picked up two global cache gc100s of the bay for $29/each.

i did the same thing i had friend hock up the wire that goes from the main panel to my sub panel and then he showed how to wire a switch and how to do a circuit breaker .... take our time in if our wiring make it nice a neat
i was lucky i only had to wire normal switches and outlets no two or 3 way switches ... that is where i think it gets complicated ....
good luck
post #84 of 291
You can do it! Just take your time and you'll find you do a cleaner, neater installation. Just plan, plan, plan the circuits, draw them out, then plan again. Do one circuit at a time, use quality materials, and label everything! Don't use those wire staples, use the plastic, white ones, much nicer, less pressure on the wire, and easier to remove for re-do's. Keep it neat and consistent, plan for possible upgrades now, as it's the easiest time.

Get some knee pads, and a little stool/tool box you can sit on when you do the final install after inspection and drywall. A good pair of wire strippers, one of those wire cover cutters, pair of wire cutters are essential. Also, in many instances, I used the push in type of wire connectors (they come in different sizes from 2 wire to 5 wire) instead of wire nuts (though they definitely have their place. Make sure you connections are tight, and recheck the work to see if it makes sense.

Good luck!
post #85 of 291
Thread Starter 
Tobe, do you have any resources you used for local code questions? Also, did you do backer boxes for your cans?
post #86 of 291
I talked to Mike (last name?) at CMC Electric, and also bought a simplified code book. I mostly used Mike!

The only cans I used were in the bathroom, and they were rated for fully enclosed use, where they were sealed and the insulation could touch them. A bit more expensive, but it was only a couple.
post #87 of 291
Thread Starter 
I need to give him a call. I am going to use all airtight, IC (insulation contact) cans. I went to Ferguson and met their lighting guru today. She said for me to scrap the soffit puck lights. She said do LED tape in the crown on the soffit and then put LED tape on the baseboard bottom edge so that it lights up the walls and floor. It's a unique idea and I don't know that I have seen anyone using LED tape around the bottoms of their walls. Anyone seen that? I'm intrigued. Also, she said my cans should be spaced about 6' apart with a 9' ceiling, so I need another row.
post #88 of 291
Could be interesting! Sounds like the washes they use in some instances, but I'd have to see it first. Maybe get a couple of samples and try it first. I have standard ropes in the crown so I can dim them, so check to see if the LED's are dimmable first, if that's what you desire. They are also pretty expensive, but maybe cheaper in longer lengths.

Good luck!
post #89 of 291
Thread Starter 
Quick question, I am building my soffit now during framing. Should the soffit start at the front wall abd come out past the false wall in the front or should it just start in front of the false wall?
post #90 of 291
I don't know the specifics of your build, but I think it would be easier just to run the soffit all the way to the front wall. Then just place your false wall wherever it needs to go under the full-depth soffit. That's what I did.
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