Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build - Page 3

updates?

not done without posting pics

Hello wraunch,

I really like the size and layout of your space, it will be a great theater. On the can lights, were you thinking of going with 4 rows of 2, like pairs in front of the first row, above each row and two in the bar? I would go with cans at least 5 inches and maybe 6. I just installed 5 inch cans in my small bar and they put out alot of light but, in the theater and at 9 feet you may want a larger size. I used 12 puck lights on my fiber optic sky box and am impressed with how much light they put out. I've seen others use them in soffits and they look great. Whether they would be sufficient to wash your screen would probably depend on how close your soffit is. Most people seem to be using can lights for that. At 120 inch screen size I would put in at least 3 cans. I used 6 sconces in my theater which is only 17 feet deep. They don't put out as much light as I expected, of course that is affected by the sconce glass and room colors too. Pendant lights would look great above your bar. I hope this helps.

Dale

Looks pretty cool! I remember those slopes in the ceiling! You're just about ready for wiring now!

Something to think about: where you might attach something to the wall now or later, put up some blocking. Basically, some 2x4's between the studs to make it easier to attach something. Of course, you have a lot of access, like me, behind your walls, so that might not be as imperative right now. Still, helps to do it from this side versus inside the spaces. Also add at least a utility light to each of your closed off spaces (which is code anyway, depending on the size of your "attic" spaces). Stuff you probably already know about, but doesn't hurt to mention while I'm thinking about it!

Good luck, can't wait to see more!

Looking pretty cool! I know you're excited! For my own preferences, I'd have the lights over the bar and nearest the screen adjustable, to be able to pinpoint on the screen or top of the bar. I hid lighting track behind a soffit-like ledge for the screen spotlights, and just used a tracklight that had fixtures that looked like old movie lights for the bar. The rest of the area is lit up by sconces in the columns, and a bit from the rope lights in the lowered crown. Those two sets of lights can be pretty small, as they don't have a lot to light, with the middle set for when you want to light up the whole place.

Also, it might be a good idea to run an A/C duct to your equipment closet, with a vent at the bottom of the rack to return the air, kind of like a door with a wide gap at the bottom. It can be screened, of course, but experiement to make sure you don't have a rush of sound! Position it over the rack and that will help with cooling, too. Any light will be fine in there, even a couple of lamps pointed at the rack, since you shouldn't be spending an inordinate amount of time there. However, fluorescents are going to be extinct soon, so LED's, though expensive are the wave of the future.

You may already have a way, but consider an access to behind your screen, to get to your speakers. From the office would be fine, witha small access panel perhaps.. That way you won't have to move the screen to get to your speakers if and when you do!

Those rear surrounds seem a bit far back, perhaps consider ceiling mounted or in-ceiling types that can be pointed forward and down a bit. Just an observation!

Keep at it!

Exactly! I like the recessed ones for the screen washes (by the way, you can get different levels of "focus" for the bulbs, like 15 degrees, etc. And 1000bulbs.com is another great source for all things lighting) and the other ones for the bar, or use the recessed ones for both. Also, just a thought, but with the amount of lights you have in the soffits, you might not even need those middle can lights. That would reduce the amount of holes in the room, save you room for some ceiling acoustic treatments if you like, and still keep it pretty cozy.

i did the same thing i had friend hock up the wire that goes from the main panel to my sub panel and then he showed how to wire a switch and how to do a circuit breaker .... take our time in if our wiring make it nice a neat
i was lucky i only had to wire normal switches and outlets no two or 3 way switches ... that is where i think it gets complicated ....
good luck

You can do it! Just take your time and you'll find you do a cleaner, neater installation. Just plan, plan, plan the circuits, draw them out, then plan again. Do one circuit at a time, use quality materials, and label everything! Don't use those wire staples, use the plastic, white ones, much nicer, less pressure on the wire, and easier to remove for re-do's. Keep it neat and consistent, plan for possible upgrades now, as it's the easiest time.

Get some knee pads, and a little stool/tool box you can sit on when you do the final install after inspection and drywall. A good pair of wire strippers, one of those wire cover cutters, pair of wire cutters are essential. Also, in many instances, I used the push in type of wire connectors (they come in different sizes from 2 wire to 5 wire) instead of wire nuts (though they definitely have their place. Make sure you connections are tight, and recheck the work to see if it makes sense.

Good luck!

I talked to Mike (last name?) at CMC Electric, and also bought a simplified code book. I mostly used Mike!

The only cans I used were in the bathroom, and they were rated for fully enclosed use, where they were sealed and the insulation could touch them. A bit more expensive, but it was only a couple.

Could be interesting! Sounds like the washes they use in some instances, but I'd have to see it first. Maybe get a couple of samples and try it first. I have standard ropes in the crown so I can dim them, so check to see if the LED's are dimmable first, if that's what you desire. They are also pretty expensive, but maybe cheaper in longer lengths.

Good luck!

I don't know the specifics of your build, but I think it would be easier just to run the soffit all the way to the front wall. Then just place your false wall wherever it needs to go under the full-depth soffit. That's what I did.