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Need a screen paint for an Optoma HD200x

post #1 of 20
3/27/12 at 1:43am
Thread Starter 
Got a 5x10 Sintra (6mm) board that I'm going to cut down for a 112" 16:9 screen. It will be 100% for movies and sports. Room is white (cannot be changed) and there is decent light control from outside, but not absolute.

I will be rolling and the frame is 1x3 molding, velvet-wrapped.

I'm in Canada so we have Home Depot, Rona, Canadian Tire, and Home Hardware.

Any suggestions? Looking to do better than a simple white screen for this setup.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 20
3/27/12 at 4:31am
I used Behr paint from home depot, color was "silver screen" with 2 standard primer coats, lightly sanding in between. If you look around the forums there are thousands of posts debating what paint is best.

Personally I think this looks great especially for $10.
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post #3 of 20
3/27/12 at 9:06am
Hello Favelle!

It's been a while!

RS-MaxxMudd LL if you gotta roll yet want performance superior to a basic White or a OTS paint like SS

Try to have the Sintra cut so as to leave at least 2" additional material around the edges past the 112" screen area. This extra area will both allow you to mount the Sintra easily via screws shot through the extra area into the wall, as well as let you have the ability to cover those screws with an overlay of trim. Also, by rolling out past the prescribed Screen area, you assure yourself of a completely uniform coverage out to the edges of the actual Screen area, where the Trim them overlays that edge.

Of course you can just stick the Sintra to the wall with adhesive, and simply "Butt" the edges of the Trim against the specified perimeter of the screen, but let me pass this bit of experienced-based advice along.

It's far more easier to simply miter cut the trim to the exact size lengths to create the Frame, wrap the peices, and overlay on top the Sintra...attaching the trim to the Sintra by driving 1- 1/4" Finish nails through the Trim / Sintra and setting the Finish nails below the surface of the Velvet with a Nail Punch. If you try "Butting", your measurements must be absolutely precise, or you could wind up having issues getting the pieces to fit completely flush against the edges of the Sintra.
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post #4 of 20
3/27/12 at 9:54am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Hello Favelle!

It's been a while!

RS-MaxxMudd LL if you gotta roll yet want performance superior to a basic White or a OTS paint like SS

Try to have the Sintra cut so as to leave at least 2" additional material around the edges past the 112" screen area. This extra area will both allow you to mount the Sintra easily via screws shot through the extra area into the wall, as well as let you have the ability to cover those screws with an overlay of trim. Also, by rolling out past the prescribed Screen area, you assure yourself of a completely uniform coverage out to the edges of the actual Screen area, where the Trim them overlays that edge.

Of course you can just stick the Sintra to the wall with adhesive, and simply "Butt" the edges of the Trim against the specified perimeter of the screen, but let me pass this bit of experienced-based advice along.

It's far more easier to simply miter cut the trim to the exact size lengths to create the Frame, wrap the peices, and overlay on top the Sintra...attaching the trim to the Sintra by driving 1- 1/4" Finish nails through the Trim / Sintra and setting the Finish nails below the surface of the Velvet with a Nail Punch. If you try "Butting", your measurements must be absolutely precise, or you could wind up having issues getting the pieces to fit completely flush against the edges of the Sintra.

Hey Man, its been a while...I know! Last screen you helped me build was for my Sanyo PLV Z2! We went neutral grey on that one....worked great for 5 years!

For mounting, I'm doing your french cleat trick as this will be mounted over top of a slate fireplace.

I'm cutting the 5x10 Sintra to 60 x 103. The border will actually mount to the front of the screen and its a 1x3 (0.75" x 2.5") border, so my effective screen area is 55 x 98. I'll 45 degree mitre for sure. I'm a mitre master.

I'll roll the screen prior to mounting the border, that way I can roll right to the edges like you say. Good idea.

Can I get all the RS-MaxxMudd LL ingredients in Canada? I thought there was some problems with some of the stuff Michaels carried (or doesn't carry?)?

Thanks!
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post #5 of 20
3/27/12 at 10:10am
Thread Starter 
Just for clarification...this is the formula I'm using, right?:

Quote:


RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1
(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
20 oz. distilled/tap water**
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post #6 of 20
3/27/12 at 10:39am
Yes. The Rustoleum is the bugger.

It's gotta come from either an online source:
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Met.../dp/B003EELN1Y

or from Menards

Being that your way out west and above the "line" on that "Island"....an On-Line source is about your only choice.

Possibly I might have a gallon of Dutch Boy Pearl Luster lying about that isn't being used, and I could send you some (20 oz.) to help out. Otherwise, getting a full 32 0z. bottle of the "Rusty" on-line is your only other option. And that route may or may not be any more...or less expensive. Honestly....I don't know.

But I'm glad to do so if that would help. Just for the USPS postage costs, of course. I've had that paint for a while, unopened. After we made the choice of using the Rustoelum (...in 32 oz bottles...) instead of having to suggest whole Gallons of the DB-PL, it's sorta just going unused and unloved.

PM me if it can help get you going.
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post #7 of 20
3/27/12 at 3:00pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yes. The Rustoleum is the bugger.

It's gotta come from either an online source:
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Met.../dp/B003EELN1Y

or from Menards

Being that your way out west and above the "line" on that "Island"....an On-Line source is about your only choice.

Possibly I might have a gallon of Dutch Boy Pearl Luster lying about that isn't being used, and I could send you some (20 oz.) to help out. Otherwise, getting a full 32 0z. bottle of the "Rusty" on-line is your only other option. And that route may or may not be any more...or less expensive. Honestly....I don't know.

But I'm glad to do so if that would help. Just for the USPS postage costs, of course. I've had that paint for a while, unopened. After we made the choice of using the Rustoelum (...in 32 oz bottles...) instead of having to suggest whole Gallons of the DB-PL, it's sorta just going unused and unloved.

PM me if it can help get you going.

Thanks dude! I'll take a trek out this week and see what ingredients I can rustle up and then what I can't. I do know Canadian Tire has a swackload of Rustoleum stuff, but its mostly in aerosol form.
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post #8 of 20
4/7/12 at 3:11pm
Thread Starter 
Hey MM, still searching high and low for the Rustoleum....no luck. Is there a local substitute that I could swap in, or is that a no-no?

Thanks.
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post #9 of 20
4/8/12 at 6:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Favelle View Post

Hey MM, still searching high and low for the Rustoleum....no luck. Is there a local substitute that I could swap in, or is that a no-no?

Thanks.

Pretty much a "No-No" because using the wrong Pearlescent could introduce granularity, color shifts, etc. The only thing close enough I know of to substitute is the aforementioned Dutch Boy Pearl Finish...and that is just as hard to locate (...excepting my lonely supply...)

Here it is...I found it again...just a'waiting fer ya......at the link I provided above.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Met.../dp/B003EELN1Y

You simply are not gonna find it at a local Store on the Island.
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post #10 of 20
4/8/12 at 12:21pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Pretty much a "No-No" because using the wrong Pearlescent could introduce granularity, color shifts, etc. The only thing close enough I know of to substitute is the aforementioned Dutch Boy Pearl Finish...and that is just as hard to locate (...excepting my lonely supply...)

Here it is...I found it again...just a'waiting fer ya......at the link I provided above.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Met.../dp/B003EELN1Y

You simply are not gonna find it at a local Store on the Island.

Damn, that really sucks. Am I better off going with a different formula then?
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post #11 of 20
4/8/12 at 12:22pm
Thread Starter 
Materials bought. Wood, screws, L and T-brackets, glue, molding...less than $25:



Vertical bracers cut (65"):



Because the screen is 122" I needed longer wood (ha!). Being the cheapo that I am, I ended up just splicing the extra length onto a standard 1x3x8' piece.





The outside frame assembled. Right side had a bow in it....fixed it in the next step.

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post #12 of 20
4/8/12 at 12:24pm
Thread Starter 
Vertical bracers fitted into place but not secured:



Corner brackets glued and screwed into place:




Pic for scale. Should be a beaut! Sintra sign board ordered (5x10' piece), velvet coming in Tuesday, and paint being mixed on Wednesday. Should be up in time for hockey playoffs! Then the hard work begins!

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post #13 of 20
4/8/12 at 2:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Favelle View Post

Damn, that really sucks. Am I better off going with a different formula then?

No.

Anything current and worth considering is going to require "Pearl".
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post #14 of 20
4/8/12 at 8:04pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No.

Anything current and worth considering is going to require "Pearl".

Dammit. I don't think I'll be satisfied with just a neutral gray either...
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post #15 of 20
4/8/12 at 9:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Favelle View Post

Dammit. I don't think I'll be satisfied with just a neutral gray either...



Have you tried a neutral gray?

And nice work on the frame.
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post #16 of 20
4/8/12 at 9:54pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

Have you tried a neutral gray?

And nice work on the frame.

Thanks man!

Yes, I currently have a "Winter Mist" 98-inch screen. I was hoping to do better this time around...plus I'll have gobs more ambient light than my last situation...
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post #17 of 20
4/8/12 at 9:54pm
Thread Starter 
Molding for the border. 1x4. I always go molding for the borders because its straighter than regular lumber, so no matter what you did for the frame or screen, a perfectly square border will frame your image perfectly, everytime:

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post #18 of 20
4/9/12 at 7:16am
With 3/4" trim, you'll have a pretty steep and tall edge. I always suggest 1 half inch base molding that has a tapered edge on 1 side.

You won't find it a manufactured screen that has a 3 quarter inch deep inside edge on the trim. People only use such bevause it seem easy, and a obvious choice.
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post #19 of 20
4/9/12 at 9:05am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

With 3/4" trim, you'll have a pretty steep and tall edge. I always suggest 1 half inch base molding that has a tapered edge on 1 side.

You won't find it a manufactured screen that has a 3 quarter inch deep inside edge on the trim. People only use such bevause it seem easy, and a obvious choice.

I can run it through the table saw at a 45-degree angle quite easily if I find it distracting.
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post #20 of 20
4/9/12 at 10:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Favelle View Post

I can run it through the table saw at a 45-degree angle quite easily if I find it distracting.

You will. The biggest issue is "shadowing" within the image area along 1-2 edges where the projected beam clips the high edge. Unless your PJ is mounted directly centered on, and in front of the screen...it a'gonna happen. Ceiling mounting always creates a top shadow edge. Frustrating. Don't go there.

But if you rip the Trim, rip at a shallower angle than 45 degrees, coming up short before the edge, and leave a small 1/8" flat edge on the inside. Or, sand the sharp 45'er until its more rounded along the edge...lest you risk separating the Nap on the velvet when you tug it snug across that edge.
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