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100 Year Old House Theater Build - Page 2

post #31 of 50
4/17/12 at 7:42pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCableMan View Post

Sorry I must have missed that about the return. I though you where talking about having the joist space as part of the return. You should consider yourself lucky you have a return. Around here the 100 year old houses have 1 Return. In the basement next to the filter. If you have a 2 story house No ducts to the 2nd floor. The have a vent cover on the ceiling of the 1st level and a vent cover on the floor of the 2nd floor as a pass through for heat to rise. Unless you got money and had a remodel done. As far as your contractor going MIA. Sorry to hear about that but life gets in the way sometimes. Sounds like its a perfect opportunity to slap on the belt and get some brownie points from the wife.

Unfortunately it's drywall time and I have no way of getting it to my place. Hopefully he'll start up this week so he can finish early next.
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post #32 of 50
4/18/12 at 5:47pm
Thread Starter 
Has anybody here lit their room with only sconces? We already have can lights up, but it wouldn't be too difficult to just switch over to sconces to prevent dealing with backer boxes.
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post #33 of 50
4/19/12 at 2:06pm
Love to see some outside pics of the 100 year old house! Live in a historical district myself.
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post #34 of 50
4/26/12 at 8:32pm
Thread Starter 
Ok, my guy is back. We ditched the can lights, wired everything for sconces and all the prewiring is finished. He's insulating and starting drywall tomorrow.

My question is, the drywall on one wall will be up against the main beam for the ceiling at the top 8" or so. is there anything I can do(or put between it) to isolate it a bit from the drywall. Example is this pic, the studs are flush with the beam.

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post #35 of 50
4/27/12 at 11:35am
Check out AirBenji's thread. He had a similar situation regarding the beam and wall placement. I think the way he tackled that problem was the best solution I've seen.
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post #36 of 50
4/27/12 at 1:19pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

Check out AirBenji's thread. He had a similar situation regarding the beam and wall placement. I think the way he tackled that problem was the best solution I've seen.

Thanks. He did his in a way that won't work for me. Appreciate the idea tho.

Would felt or anything behind the drywall help at all?
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post #37 of 50
4/27/12 at 1:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shuasha View Post

Ok, my guy is back. We ditched the can lights, wired everything for sconces and all the prewiring is finished. He's insulating and starting drywall tomorrow.

My question is, the drywall on one wall will be up against the main beam for the ceiling at the top 8" or so. is there anything I can do(or put between it) to isolate it a bit from the drywall. Example is this pic, the studs are flush with the beam.


Would putting GG on the beam help? It might be better than nothing.
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post #38 of 50
4/27/12 at 1:34pm
Unfortunately you're in a bit of a predicament here.

I believe your best option would be to add a row of whisper clips and hat channel along the top of the beam. Then move your stud wall in so that it is flush with the piece of channel. Attach the top of the drywall sheet to the channel only and then the rest of it to the stud wall.

Green Glue on the beam won't decouple the drywall. You'll still be rigidly attached.

You could always pm Ted White or call the soundproofing company directly. They'd be more than happy to give you advice.
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post #39 of 50
4/27/12 at 1:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Unfortunately you're in a bit of a predicament here.

I believe your best option would be to add a row of whisper clips and hat channel along the top of the beam. Then move your stud wall in so that it is flush with the piece of channel. Attach the top of the drywall sheet to the channel only and then the rest of it to the stud wall.

Green Glue on the beam won't decouple the drywall. You'll still be rigidly attached.

You could always pm Ted White or call the soundproofing company directly. They'd be more than happy to give you advice.

You are right I didn't think about the coupling. Adding a very small soffit attached with clips may be another option, but I know you didn't want to add one. It would look almost like a small bumpout.
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post #40 of 50
4/27/12 at 2:18pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Unfortunately you're in a bit of a predicament here.

I believe your best option would be to add a row of whisper clips and hat channel along the top of the beam. Then move your stud wall in so that it is flush with the piece of channel. Attach the top of the drywall sheet to the channel only and then the rest of it to the stud wall.

Green Glue on the beam won't decouple the drywall. You'll still be rigidly attached.

You could always pm Ted White or call the soundproofing company directly. They'd be more than happy to give you advice.

Heh, that's not gonna happen. I'll live with the small area of coupling.
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post #41 of 50
4/27/12 at 2:45pm
I'm not trying to tell you what you have to do or anything, but keep in mind that you'd only need seven clips and a length of channel so it wouldn't be a huge investment.
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post #42 of 50
4/27/12 at 5:42pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

I'm not trying to tell you what you have to do or anything, but keep in mind that you'd only need seven clips and a length of channel so it wouldn't be a huge investment.

It's not that, it's that it's up, conduit run, speaker wires run and insulation up!
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post #43 of 50
4/27/12 at 9:43pm
Thread Starter 
Updated pics!

Room as it sits. It's all insulated and electrical is run. Just waiting on some more IB-1 clips, my builder went every 32" instead of 48" like I told him to.


The wall with the main beam on it. We'll figure something out.


Where the equipment is all going to sit.

LL
LL
LL
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post #44 of 50
5/4/12 at 9:36pm
Thread Starter 
The drywall got installed today.

Also, I ordered lots of the electronic bits:

Epson 5010 + Mount
2 Pairs of Epson Glasses + 2 pairs of PS3 Glasses (for guests)
Two new/older model Monitor Audio Silver RS-CX's for the rear surround
Hot Link XL Cat5 IR repeater system

After these pics were taken I caulked most of the open cracks. I still need to get the bottoms of the walls.




LL
LL
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post #45 of 50
5/6/12 at 1:09pm
Thread Starter 
Ok, now for the screen question. The room is 97.5" wide. If I go with a 106" screen, it comes out to 96" wide with the frame + velvet surround. Is 3/4" not enough space to the wall?

If I drop down to 100", that gets me around 2" per side. I'll do the viewing distance tests with both once I get my projector in.. I'm guessing that 6" isn't enough to worry about.
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post #46 of 50
5/6/12 at 1:43pm
Will this be an acoustically transparent screen with a false wall and the speakers behind it?

If not then you will need room on each side for your left and right speakers as well as enough room below for your center channel.
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post #47 of 50
5/6/12 at 3:02pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Will this be an acoustically transparent screen with a false wall and the speakers behind it?

If not then you will need room on each side for your left and right speakers as well as enough room below for your center channel.

Yep, AT screen with a false wall.
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post #48 of 50
5/23/12 at 8:19pm
Thread Starter 
Ok, the room is now pretty much ready for me to do whatever I want. I'll probably go with GOM covered walls, but the thought of spending $600+ just for the Fabricmate track drives me up the wall, so I'll probably tear down some 2x4's into 1" furring strips. I found a local supply the carries 100' rolls of Linacoustic for ~$250 so at least that's covered.

The final room is:
D: 19' 7"
W: 8' 2"
H: 6' 4"

The ceiling is painted, the walls are primed, and the Epson 5010 is hung. It looks pretty decent on a primed wall!





Here's where the equipment will go, just outside the room.

LL
LL
LL
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post #49 of 50
6/26/12 at 4:06pm
Thread Starter 
Ok, I'm pretty much at the finish line. The last piece I'm stuck on is the wall coverings and absorption. I have a 100' roll of 1" thick Linacoustic that I can easily use on the bottom 4' of the wall. Where I'm stuck is how to do the fabric. I did the math and it's about $1400 for just the Fabricmate track and GOM fabric, most of that being the track. I can also just make some frames out of 1" furring strips. After that, it's making a window plug then carpet and seating.

Does anybody make fabric track that isn't extremely overpriced for what it is? I know it's a specialty product, but $13 for 5 feet is a bit much to swallow. smile.gif

Here's the current state of the room:

700


700


700
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post #50 of 50
7/29/12 at 3:59pm
Any updates?
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