Official Marantz NR1602 Owner and Buyer Thread - Page 6

The AVR should be able to power any 6 or 8-ohm speakers with at least 87db or higher sensitivity/efficiency rating without issue.

I'm replacing my Polk RTI's with the Sierra's, probably the towers, but I haven't heard them yet.

I've never had an issue with the low wattage though the volume does get high sometimes. Realize there really isn't any difference between 80 and 100 watts. But the unit also has preout's so if you feel it isn't enough you can use a power amp in the future too.

I'm having a bit of a headache with my Marantz NR1602... One day I can play my PS3 no problem and then today suddenly it loses signal and I can't get it back on. Everything else hooked up to it has no problem (Mac Mini HDMI for Plex and Cable box).

Can anyone with this AVR help a newbie? Thanks.

Try setting the "Deep Color Output" setting on the PS3 to OFF.

Anyone else have theirs get stuck on "Update Retry >>>>" for hours on end?

I left it to sort itself out while shopping, came home to my router shutting off the connection. ha.

Any help appreciated. Every once in a while it'll go to "ESBL >>>>" and give a countdown in minutes. I'm about to start scouring the manual...

Nothing in the manual so far. And it's still going. I've tried hard resetting it, and it will still go back to the Update Retry screen... help? Anyone? Have until Jan 24th to take it back, don't really want to though...
Edited by hopeles117 - 1/1/13 at 5:19pm

Found the culprit.. it's a bad Sony HDMI cable. Those things are just expensive but poorly built

Try connecting it without ANYTHING else in the network. This usually does the trick vor marantz and denon avrs.

So no wifi enabled on the router, all devices unplugged etc

Called Marantz a couple of times. First time the dude wasnt too nice, but helped. It didnt fix the issue nor did he wait with me to see if his solution worked. Called back a while later, was told its probably got a bad network card. I reset it again (network card too) and if I don't update it'll stay just fine. I just don't want to keep something I know to be broken. Picking up a 1603 and if it works I'll return the 1602. Oh well!

I have an almost new 1602 in Alex, Va that works fine but I've decided to try something else in case you're interested...

I'm interested in an NR1602 if you are looking to sell. Will be in Northern Virginia this Wednesday.

tme110 - i am still interested but it might be Thursday instead of Friday. I can't pm you because i have reached my daily allotment. Am i permitted to give you my email address in the forum? If so, let me know and we can communicate that way.

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Edited by tme110 - 1/22/13 at 5:45pm

Thanks for the response; been travelling and I´m checking old posts.

I do believe I cshould have bought another one, but it was an opportunity and didn´t do much research. For now, I´m using the second amp connected directly to the computer, and using the computers volume control (volume control on the remote was the main -and probably only- reason why I would need the amp for having a zone 2, since my second amp is an analog one).

Another doubt regarding this amp. I´m having some trouble using the remote to operate a cable box decoder.

It´s a PACE DC550D; I´ve tried all of the SAT codes, but none of those worked. Is there any could that I could use?


Thanks in advance!

Regards,
Marcos

are you having the remote 'learn' the codes using the original remote?

Yes, but I couldn´t get it to learn the source power button. Though you´ve given me an idea, and I just used another button for it (the STOP button in my case) and it works just fine .

By the way, the "channel" buttons are horribly placed; I´ve had to use the fast forward buttons for that, but still aren´t that comfortable. Any ideas on this?

Buying a Logitech, or using the dedicated source remote...

I have Marantz 1602 for sale. Bought new and used for 2 weeks or so. I am willing to sell. I'm in Atlanta.

You may want to place it in the Classified section of this forum.

I just got mine and love it so far. I know it's last year's model, but Best Buy has them on clearance (where in stock) for $299 new. Mine was open box, was missing the mic (I have the Audessey mic from my Onkyo), and didn't have the crappy OEM antennas, so they dropped it to $225. They were doing 10% off all open box items and I had a balance on a gift card, so I got out of there for about $170.

I have it setup running the Def Tech ProCinema60 5.1 speakers and have no complaints. It did an update for the firmware as soon as I got it online, and I've used Airplay several times w/o issue. We needed a smaller AVR, but I didn't want to give up the powered zone 2 or network capability and this really fits the bill.

I'll update more after I've had a little more time with the whole setup.

I recently bought a new pair of KEF LS50s which replaced the NHT Superzeros that were matched with this receiver. The only thing I made though was change crossover settings for the front speakers from 120hz down to 80hz. After almost half day of listening in stereo mode at moderate volume level, I seem to have developed some ear fatigue with this speaker...and something didn't appear right to me.

Do you think I should have run Audyssey and improvements would’ve been more apparent? I forgot all about it. I know other factors come into play but my question has more to do with what other corrections would’ve Audyssey done, besides changing my front’s crossover.

It would have EQ'd the new speakers as setting the crossover is a function of the AVR not Audyssey.

Ah cool...I'll run it this weekend then. As always, thanks for the tip

I see some of you have posted about changing the crossover for front speakers on the 1602. I have the instruction manual cd and "think" I have found how to change cross over but I'm doing something wrong. I want to set the front from full range to 80hz as I have just gotten a SVS PB-1000. When I run Audyssey it reverts back to full range and I get little output from the SW. I'm running a single cable from LFE out to the SVS LFE in. What am I missing. Thanks in advance.

Is your subwoofer appearing in the speaker setup menu? I'm pretty sure you have to enable it in there. I think you are also attempting two contradictory settings. Won't Audyssey override any manual settings? If you switch from stereo mode to direct or pure direct, do you get more subwoofer involvement?

The AVR will set the FL/FR speakers to LARGE if they are capable of handling low range frequencies < 50Hz or so (regardless of whether there is a sub in the setup or not). Any settings made prior to running Audyssey are ignored, so after running Audyssey again, you can manually change the speakers to SMALL/80Hz @ System Setup --> Speaker Setup (p. 87 OM).

Note that using either DIRECT or PURE DIRECT will disable bass management (ie. no sub involvement with a stereo signal).

Owned the NR1602 for a year or so. Initially setup in main system, but moved down with the limited AV cabinet to the office at this point. That system has the following: LG DVD/VHS Recorder, ATT DVR, Apple TV, Technics SLQ300 TT, NAD Phono PreAMP. I used to have my Denon DCM-444 in the setup, but pulled it to put the TT in. Now, wanting to insert the Denon back in, I cannot figure it out. It appears that there are only 4 inputs to the receiver. Is this correct or operator error. I would probably bring it in via the digital COAX.

Thanks for help in advance.

d

Just purchased a new TV (Samsung ES7000) and I have the NET/USB channel on HDMI. This didn't work on my old TV, assume either my old TV was not fully compatible or the NR1602 requires a very tolerant TV.

Cannot get the sound from the TV to come through the NR1602 (using HDMI lead). I think the lead is fine because changing the volume on the TV changes the volume on the receiver but no sound from the receiver. Can anybody help?

Doh!. Had the lead in the wrong port - On the TV only HDMI2 has ARC.

Now have an issue with very low volume through ARC.