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Official Marantz NR1602 Owner and Buyer Thread - Page 4

post #91 of 218
I just got a message for a new firmware update today. I'm 99.9% sure I had had the most recent, since I remember checking not too long ago. Anyway, I'm not too sure if the US updates are the same as EU, but I found a change log (which doesn't have todays update) here http://firmware.marantz.eu/
Changelog of NR1602
Main: 001170036

When AV receiver connects with Toshiba DBR-Z150 via HDMI, and BD playing is stopped and plays it again, the level of the sound pressure increases 6dB.
AirPlay doesn't operate, when a particular router is used.
When turn on the "Pure-direct" by the RDS broadcast of FM, the display is flickering.
Missing of 1 vertical line of pixel.
Update notification in English is wrong.

Main: 001150034

The firmware update is impossible via DPMS. And the error message of "Connection Fail 25" is displayed.
Incorrect network behavior reported by Control4 programmer.
When iPod is replaced, the product has the possibility of not outputting the video of NET/USB. The screen becomes a display of the black.
The video signal of 0-255 doesn't do Pass-through by connecting HDMI.
HDMI-interoperability with HUMAX Set Top Box
Coding in XML document with wrong Symbols.
Improvement of download time in DPMS.
Countermeasure of the Podcast play defect in Internet radio.
Countermeasure of language code perception defect in Internet Radio. (Icy metadata with UTF8).
Changed the default Internet radio station of PRESET CHANNEL3 from "1.fm Classical Musik" to "98.1 Klassik Radio FM".

Main 01090031

The problem of MFi (Made For iPod/iPhone) test has been improved. Requesting related to MFi was not filled.
An unnecessary display might occur temporarily in the FL tube at the time of the "Power OFF" and "AC/OFF".

post #92 of 218
Firmware Changelog Update - Nov 3

1) IR command addition to AV receiver.
2) Problems when controlling by WEB GUI_II
3) When external instrument (Apps, C4 Controller) is used for a long time, there is a possibility not to be able to control from the external instrument.
Edited by jdsmoothie - 11/5/12 at 12:02pm
post #93 of 218
Originally Posted by Diverge View Post

I just got a message for a new firmware update today. I'm 99.9% sure I had had the most recent, since I remember checking not too long ago. Anyway, I'm not too sure if the US updates are the same as EU, but I found a change log (which doesn't have todays update) here http://firmware.marantz.eu/

Were you able to obtain this using your USA unit's serial number?
post #94 of 218
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Were you able to obtain this using your USA unit's serial number?
I was too lazy to look at my unit so i just entered something like 12345678 biggrin.gif
post #95 of 218
Ah, I see, as generally it only permits European model serial numbers.
post #96 of 218
When you are using a synthetic surround sound mode (one of the options that creates multichannel sound out of a 2-channel signal) does the receiver first convert an analog signal to digital, then process the surround sound effect, then reconvert it back to analog again?
post #97 of 218
post #98 of 218

Another question just to see if I'm missing something. I've had the 1602 for a year or so now (and the 1601 before that). I'm typically at a 30 volume when watching TV and trying to be fairly quiet. 50 would be the level I don't care if others hear me and I'd watch action movies at about 75 (when I want to hear full effects of explosions etc). Certainly not crazy load or even close to hearing effects loud but still pretty loud.

I did some minor moves of equipment last week and reran the sound check and now I'm at a quiet listening level at 50! I rerun it again today and I'm still at 50. Music listening could be upto 70 but haven't watched a movie yet. I even got a power amp today, hooked it up, ran it again and no changes (I was surprised at that (with a 150 watt power amp added) but that's just my ignorance of never using a power amp before). When I check the settings it has all attenuation value's set to between -2.5db and -9.5 db. The relative values seem valid for my setup (I'm very close to one speaker when I sit). But should they all be so attenuated? I'd think one should be set at 0 as a reference and the others attenuated from that. Does this seem right? Should I be listening to quiet music at 50% volume?

post #99 of 218
I checked the manual so I'm sure the answer is no, but is there a way to use a trigger off of this? (just trying to find away to have my power amp come one)
post #100 of 218
12v triggers are only featured on the 6006; however, you can use a smart power strip to power the amp on.
post #101 of 218
Help. Error connecting Marantz NR1603 to Comcast Arris TG862 G/CT modem/router
I am getting error connecting Marantz NR1603 to Comcast Arris TG862 G/CT modem / router / wireless. The Marantz is showing the connection with IP address, MAC address, gateway etc correctly. The Router is showing it as well, but as an offline computer with a MAC address as host name. I have tried resetting microproccessor on NR1603 by pressin ON, InternetRadio and Zone2 buttons simultaneously and resetting router; IP control set to "Always ON"; disabling all firewall and security; manually setting up Marantz (without DHCP) and adding into the router as Static IP computer but it still shows asoffline computer and Marantz can not connect to internet. I have searched for the solution around here and google but nothing comes up. I'd appreciate if someone can help me solve this issue.

P.S. Owners manual on the end of pg.22 NOTE is confusing can't figure out wheather NR1603 can or can not work with PPoP type modem. Also, does anyone know if comcast broadband is using PPPop or not?
Edited by Nakaav - 11/18/12 at 3:56pm
post #102 of 218
I have been enjoying my NR1602 with my old speakers and wish to try to match some speakers to this receiver. Ideally, it would be a surround system but also, good for playing stereo music. Are there any brand/models that would be a good starting point for me to review? I would have no problem with FR and FL being floor standing but I don't want to spend a fortune. Most of my music is stereo CD and uncompressed copies of these CDs in AAC format. My movies are nearly all blu ray now. My goal is a good 5.1 system that is played at medium audio levels (I live in a flat) and also serve up good quality music from the NR1602.

Room - receiver is placed with large screen on a "short wall" and the opposing wall is long. Room is not really enclosed as it is long. The TV wall is slightly recessed and is about 11 feet long. I would use 11' of the opposing wall as the rest of the space for rear speakers and of course in front of that the chair/sofa/chair combo.

Anyone have suggestions for starting points for my search for matching the NR1602 ? Thanks in advance and yes, I know this is very subjective but then again, from the talk in this forum, seems both "sound" and efficiency count and not just sound alone.
post #103 of 218
I've been searching for a new AVR for my living room. Currently sorely outdated Yamaha with some old Bose 301's (don't laugh) it's just casual listening. I have a 50" plasma that it's hooked up to as well. I have no intention of using anything more than a 2.0 or 2.1 setup in this room. I wanted something that would offer the network connectivity to access my media server in the basement and hdmi switching. I also wanted the ability to have pre-outs to use an external amp to drive larger speakers down the road. After a lot of searching I think this model will fit the bill. The small size is not important.

I can get a good deal on a brand new 1602, or should I get the 1603? Are there any major differences in the networking abilities of the two, besides spotify from what I've read? I know there are fewer hdmi's, not important. Or could someone recommend something else that would work for me that may be normal size?
post #104 of 218
Hey guys. Just grabbed a 1602 off a lighting deal for 349.00. Pretty excited.

Quick question. I need two opticals in. I see this has one optical and one coax in. Can both of these ports be used?
post #105 of 218
I see that lightning deal now - I see that it's about 200 off from the normal Amazon price. Sounds like a deal I shouldn't pass up? Been tentatively looking to replace my onkyo that's been dying on me (won't pass video anymore through HDMI unless I let it 'warm up'.
post #106 of 218
Yeah i think 350 is hard to beat for what you are getting.
post #107 of 218
^^Damn, wish I had seen this lightning deal! Picked one up for 400 on ebay.
post #108 of 218
Hey I snagged what I think was a good deal on a Marantz NR1602. I didn't have time to do the homework before I bought it, but i bought it anyway. Now I can return it, but since it was a good deal i thought i'd see if anyone was interested. I know this isn't the classified thread, but i'm posting none the less. It is new in box and if you had to have it i could provide the original receipt. The only reason why i'm offering it for sale is because it according to the specs it's not really offering me anything I would use over my Pioneer Elite VSX23-TXH.

PM if you're intersted
post #109 of 218
Got mine today and hooked it up. Can anyone tell me if their volume knob is really stiff? Doesn't seem right to me. It works fine, just very stiff and never had a stereo like that. I was little disappointed with the plastic knobs. Any idea why the media center info doesn't show up on the iphone app? Everything else works except that. Can see the 1602 on my pc and it plays the songs on the unit, just not with the iphone app.
post #110 of 218
Just pulled the trigger on a Marantz 1602. Will it work well with the Pioneer SP-BS21 (Link) and the SP-C21 (Link) speakers?
post #111 of 218
They should work okay, although as they are fairly inefficient speakers and only 6-ohm, you'll likely have to turn the master volume up a little higher than with more efficient 8-ohm speakers.
post #112 of 218
Hi. I am having trouble with my Marantz NR1602. I purchased it 2 days ago and played my Playstation 3 through it through the HDMI 'Game" port. Last night I played a DVD on my PS3 through the 'DVD' port. Both were fine.Now the A.V will not play through either the 'GAME' port OR the 'DVD' port. I tried the 'BD' port as well and still no luck. I plugged my PS3 directly into my TV and it works fine so it's the A.V not the PS3 or my T.V What could be wrong with the AV?
post #113 of 218
Perhaps just an HDMI handshake issue. To mitigate these issues, always power on in this order, TV, wait a few seconds for it to fully power up, AVR, wait a few seconds for it to fully power up, and then finally the source device. When changing inputs, you may have to power all devices off first and then power on again as described above. These types of issues tend to only be problematic with certain source devices. Also try setting the "Deep Color Output" setting on the PS3 to OFF.
post #114 of 218
how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking? i have a new one for sale and am surprised by the lack of interest.
post #115 of 218
yes, note you can't just plug things in (I have no idea if that's what you are doing), the required handshake only happens when powered on.
post #116 of 218
picked this up during the lightning deal and liking it so far. one question, though. i've got an audio-only input set up via coax as 'CD'. no video input/output set for it. when i turn the receiver on without the TV on, the PCM/DIG icons on the display seem to flash like it's not locking onto the signal. it's standard 96/24 PCM. if i turn on the TV, it locks and i get audio right away.
is there a setting somewhere that will allow this to play without turning the TV on first?
post #117 of 218
odd thing i found, is that switching to "PURE DIRECT" will cause it to lock and output to the front speakers, even without turning on the tv.
switching from pure direct to "DIRECT" or any of the surround modes cause pcm/dig icons to start flashing again. firmware bug? frown.gif
post #118 of 218
Try changing the power on order (ie. AVR, source) and ensure the cable connection is securely fitted at each end. You may also want to try an optical connection.
post #119 of 218
Hi all; I´ve just bought this receiver in a deal, and I´m trying to get it to work right.

Is there a way to select the "Pre-Out" to work as a Zone 2?

I´d like to use my 7.1 speaker configuration as default, and for music just use FLAC from the PC, through unprocessed sound card, and pure direct in a different set of speakers (therefore needing the PRE-OUT; I have an old amp + speakers set for this).

I don´t really care if I don´t get 7.1 while I´m listening to music; furthermore, I would need for the 7.1 direct speakers to be completely turned down.

Any ideas on how to set this up?

Thanks in advance!

post #120 of 218
I tried using the preout to power a subwoofer (Pioneer SW-8 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117402) but the Audyssey calibration never detects it. Do I need to connect it to the SW output?
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