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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 84

post #2491 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnicolette View Post

Can someone explain (to this noob) how to turn 3:2 Pulldown on? I used Katz's calibration settings (adapting Custom), but 3:2 Pulldown is grayed out. Thanks!

Try feeding it a 24p source like a blu-ray then you will have that option.
post #2492 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit View Post

Try feeding it a 24p source like a blu-ray then you will have that option.
The option is only available for interlaced sources. Feeding it 24p will only make the 24p direct in option available.

Don't worry if it's grayed out. It's grayed out because you're feeding your set a progressive source where 3:2 pulldown isn't needed.
post #2493 of 9713
Thanks!
post #2494 of 9713
Can any GT50 users out there recommend 3d glasses? I was looking at the Monstervision 3d glasses reviews and they sound good. Not sure how they compare to the Panasonic TY-ER3D4MU pairs. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
post #2495 of 9713
Lance7 - I use the Panny glasses and find them to be comfortable and light. Got them through Amazon...
post #2496 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATC7 View Post

Well my 60GT50 is going back, this time not for an exchange. cool.gif
The buzzing reared it's ugly head last night and this morning and it was bad. ... panasonic rep ... thinks it's due to the thinness of the 2012 models, in that there's hardly any sound insulation ... It's a shame as I love the panel and the PQ is the best I've seen but I just can't live with this buzzing. Maybe I have to settle for an LCD.

I've lost track of prior posts; are you indicating that it had been OK before but then just suddenly started, or that you just had your final dose of it ?

As you also suggested the thinness of the set has nothing to do with the buzzing or blocking it with insulation. A good customer service rep will be aware of complaint trends but in my experience, are completely ignorant of engineering factors. When they say things like that its usually just a repeated coment from another customer who was equally wrong. I have to agree with the other posters who indicate that loud buzzing can be caused by several things but is probably from "bad" power supplies. I don't want to say "faulty" or "defective" because they obviuosly work. The problem is that the manufacturers aparently consider "some" buzzing "within acceptable limits".

My set is nearly buzz free. I can hear it but only if i kill all sound in the room and stick my head behind the panel on the left side. Its there and it gets louder / softer with bright / dark screen content, but its not audible in front of the set. Its not my hearing, its just not there. I can hear the buzz from a transformer on a power pole 1/4 mile away, I can hear street lights, and I can hear most fluorescent lights.

I don't know Future Shop but if you can find a "small" customer service oriented store that will either test a set before they ship it or a local shop that will let you test a set in-store before its delivered you may be able to get a quiet set next time around. Depending on your viewing position and room lighting, you may not be happy with the PQ from LCD. I tried two of LG's newest models that had hundreds of rave reviews and couldn't stand the aweful black-level, low contrast, and poor off-axis viewing. This is what drove me to plasma. Durring the daytime LCD looks fine (even excellent) but there is no comparison to plasma in the evening.

Unless I had no other choice, I would not buy an LCD today knowing how much better the PQ on plasma is and how much more expensive LCD has become. I might just wait a year and see if OLED is taking over the industry.
post #2497 of 9713
Can any GT50 users out there recommend 3d glasses?

I have only tryed the Panasonic glasses ($53-$80) and the Samsung glasses ($20).

The Panasonic glasses work great and are light and comfortable. I like that they have wide sides to block out ambient light and the fact that you can switch from 3D to 2D on the glasses.

The Samsung glasses (which i was hoping would be just as good because they are alot cheaper) do work, but not very well. The PQ was actually almost as good but there was a constant intermitent flicker. Not like the 48hz flicker but more like a faint flash every second or so. Too bad...oh well it was worth a shot.
post #2498 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

I've lost track of prior posts; are you indicating that it had been OK before but then just suddenly started, or that you just had your final dose of it ?
As you also suggested the thinness of the set has nothing to do with the buzzing or blocking it with insulation. A good customer service rep will be aware of complaint trends but in my experience, are completely ignorant of engineering factors. When they say things like that its usually just a repeated coment from another customer who was equally wrong. I have to agree with the other posters who indicate that loud buzzing can be caused by several things but is probably from "bad" power supplies. I don't want to say "faulty" or "defective" because they obviuosly work. The problem is that the manufacturers aparently consider "some" buzzing "within acceptable limits".
My set is nearly buzz free. I can hear it but only if i kill all sound in the room and stick my head behind the panel on the left side. Its there and it gets louder / softer with bright / dark screen content, but its not audible in front of the set. Its not my hearing, its just not there. I can hear the buzz from a transformer on a power pole 1/4 mile away, I can hear street lights, and I can hear most fluorescent lights.
I don't know Future Shop but if you can find a "small" customer service oriented store that will either test a set before they ship it or a local shop that will let you test a set in-store before its delivered you may be able to get a quiet set next time around. Depending on your viewing position and room lighting, you may not be happy with the PQ from LCD. I tried two of LG's newest models that had hundreds of rave reviews and couldn't stand the aweful black-level, low contrast, and poor off-axis viewing. This is what drove me to plasma. Durring the daytime LCD looks fine (even excellent) but there is no comparison to plasma in the evening.
Unless I had no other choice, I would not buy an LCD today knowing how much better the PQ on plasma is and how much more expensive LCD has become. I might just wait a year and see if OLED is taking over the industry.

I'm starting to lean towards the idea that each set is different buzzing-wise. I may just have been unlucky with the two I received. Assuming our hearing is similar, my set definitely sounds much worse than yours. I certainly don't have to put my ear to the back of the set to hear it, I can hear mine from across the room. It's not that the issue wasn't there and all of a sudden it is, it's really all based on content. Under most content I never hear it, but about 10% of the time it's definitely there and quite bad. The question for me was whether I can live with it and I don't think I can.

I could try another exchange but I'm working a lot these days, had 2 days off all month so far. The sets come straight from the warehouse so nothing can be tested at store-level before delivery, at least that's what I'm told. And just to put things in perspective, I'm quite familiar with plasma buzz. My PZ77 and G15 had it but like I said earlier you could never hear it outside 3-4 ft away. I wish my GT50s were the same but both sets sound like a running fridge compressor. It's not defective according to Panasonic, at least everything is functioning as it should, but for sure I think the buzzing on my two sets was beyond normal.

If I do go down the LCD road, I know I'm going to compromise. Even if I get an Elite it's going to be a compromise. Off-axis viewing is one big concern of mine which is why I'm going to take my time before I make any decisions. To me it's quite disappointing, assuming every set buzzes differently and some are near silent as some have suggested, that Panasonic didn't address this issue in manufacturing QA. There has to be a quantifiable variable that causes some sets to be near silent while others are like mine. cool.gif
post #2499 of 9713
Happy to say I finally bit the bullet and ordered my 65GT50 yesterday.....really looking forward to getting this set up on my wall smile.gif Think i'm gonna actually put a little more time and effort in to getting my decent home theater sounding perfect.

Currently....
Panasonic 50PZ77u
Yamaha RXV 863
Energy CF 50 Mains Bi-amped
Energy C 10 Center
Energy CR 10 Surrounds
Paradigm 3400 sub
Sony PS3
Motarola DCX3400 PVR
Harmony One and PS3 adapter

On order....
Panasonic 65GT50
Pioneer VSX 1122
Edited by nucl3arboNg - 6/26/12 at 10:01pm
post #2500 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

Same here. I have three Panasonics and the buzzing isn't audible beyond a few feet, and none of the more than a dozen Panasonics i've set up for others buzz either. There are other components besides the transformer/power supply that can cause a louder-than-normal buzz - in all cases it's a defect - not an inherent issue with Plasmas......
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1387144/panasonic-tcp-54s2-buzzing-zzz

Glad to see to you agree . . you do know your 'stuff' . . . plasmas do NOT normally buzz (can be heard 5 - 10ft away) and if it does, it is defective. A post (in another thread) detailed that the "screws" were loose on internal boards.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATC7 View Post

I saw that thread, it's definitely interesting but who knows if the buzzing in my case is from the same component, let alone if the fix is at all applicable to the GT50 (that thread dealt with the V20). I'm also not comfortable fixing this myself, and frankly on a brand new set, I shouldn't have to. Sadly, even Panasonic's own service tech didn't want to bother with it, recommending an exchange.

Yes, that was a FIX dictated by "owner-ship" . . . ie, he HAD to fix it since it was out of warranty. It's actually a great writeup complete w/ pictures showing that the ferrite core was cracked.

BTW, his fix was about the BEST that could be attempted; the reason is that the cable ties close the crack and make the core ALMOST as good as new, permeability wise..

For you, I would not keep it under any circumstances and by all means, send it back.
post #2501 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

The option is only available for interlaced sources. Feeding it 24p will only make the 24p direct in option available.
Don't worry if it's grayed out. It's grayed out because you're feeding your set a progressive source where 3:2 pulldown isn't needed.

Thanks rahzel.
post #2502 of 9713
450Got my TCP55GT50 from amazon yesterday......running setup slides.....today turned tv on and have vertical line 12 inches from left side.....shows as red line on tv picture,,,,,will this dissipate with aging of the tv???????
Edited by dchet - 6/27/12 at 7:46am
post #2503 of 9713
Did you turn on the tv before accepting the tv? I believe that panel is defective and it won't go away with aging.
post #2504 of 9713
Yesterday this line was not visible......ran setup slides all night........shut down tv to cool and when I started with slides this morning line was visible......shows with pc..dvd...and cable
post #2505 of 9713
I'd send it back.
post #2506 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchet View Post

450Got my TCP55GT50 from amazon yesterday......running setup slides.....today turned tv on and have vertical line 12 inches from left side.....shows as red line on tv picture,,,,,will this dissipate with aging of the tv???????

That's definitely defective. I've had more than a normal person's share of the same issue with my previous plasmas, techs were never able to fix it, a panel replacement was the only cure.
post #2507 of 9713
I have owned (at least teporarily) 5 different Panasonic Plasmas (p85u, GT25, Two ST30's and a GT50). EVERYONE of them had a buzz of some sort. I actually received my GT50 from Panasonic as a replacement for my ST30 which had a horribly loud buzz that they could not figure out after numerous repair attempts (They technician attributed it to a bad ground somewhere in the set, whatever that means).

The GT50 I have has a mild buzz on bright scenes, and is virtually silent on darker scenes. The only time I can notice it is if I browse the web with my PC that is hooked up to it. My ST30 was loud all of the time, not matter what the scene.

You need to determine what you can live with. I can certainly live with the level of buzz from GT50, especially comning from the set I previously had.
post #2508 of 9713
In terms of calibration and presets, I have an Onkyo TX NR-818 which has ISF calibration. Could I or better yet, should I make use of this for a daytime/nighttime toggle? I already prepped my panel with the 100 hour slides, and plugged in Katz's settings (I found DNice's to be a bit too dim), as well as make use of THX bright room (and occasionally THX normal).

I don't even think the GT can be ISF calibrated, so would this be a good idea?

Thanks!
Jason
post #2509 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason370 View Post

In terms of calibration and presets, I have an Onkyo TX NR-818 which has ISF calibration. Could I or better yet, should I make use of this for a daytime/nighttime toggle? I already prepped my panel with the 100 hour slides, and plugged in Katz's settings (I found DNice's to be a bit too dim), as well as make use of THX bright room (and occasionally THX normal).
I don't even think the GT can be ISF calibrated, so would this be a good idea?
Thanks!
Jason

GT cannot be ISF calibrated, it doesn't really need it. You're going to have to play with that new avr to find out what it's really good at but before that I suggest that you get to know your tv very intimately first- it will make trouble shooting much easier.
post #2510 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JForge View Post

Glad to see to you agree . . you do know your 'stuff' . . . plasmas do NOT normally buzz (can be heard 5 - 10ft away) and if it does, it is defective. A post (in another thread) detailed that the "screws" were loose on internal boards.

I'm surprised more people have not mentioned that other thread. What it tells me is that this is a manufacturing problem. This would also explain why some sets have it and others don't.

As to plasma's being more susceptible, I would think so due to higher voltages, frequencies and power. But if LEDs (O or otherwise) start scanning at higher rates (480hz?) they may also start buzzing along.

But it also means that it is 'fixable', perhaps by a tech who knows what s/he is doing. And maybe Panasonic can get better QC at their production line.
post #2511 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

GT cannot be ISF calibrated, it doesn't really need it. You're going to have to play with that new avr to find out what it's really good at but before that I suggest that you get to know your tv very intimately first- it will make trouble shooting much easier.

While it doesn't have a CMS or 10-pt grayscale adjustments, the GT can still yield improved PQ with ISF calibration of the custom mode.
post #2512 of 9713
Stupid question but if you watch a football game on ESPN loaded with graphics, scores, stats, and all this clutter for 3 hrs+ could that result in burn-in?
post #2513 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by jessebobcat View Post

Stupid question but if you watch a football game on ESPN loaded with graphics, scores, stats, and all this clutter for 3 hrs+ could that result in burn-in?
I sometimes watch three NFL games on a Sunday. I don't check for image retention. Recently I did check, after over four years of NFL and NHL games, and found no sign of image retention. I expect that over that four year period there was some image retention that came and went. What you ask about was burn-in, which once it comes it never goes away. There is no way you can get burn-in from one football game.

Keep in mind that I also watch a lot of other types of sources, some with fixed images and some without. A good mix is your best protection. It also helps to avoid checking for image retention (IR) any more often than every four years. biggrin.gif

NOTE: I'm not a gamer.
post #2514 of 9713
People really worry about IR too much. Throw your stupid slides away once you are done 'breaking in' your TV. If you ever want to check IR after that, just turn off the lights and put it on an input that's not being used (black screen). But seriously, unless you can see it when you are watching normal programming and it stays there for a significant period of time there is no reason to worry about it. Seriously.
post #2515 of 9713
How many new GT50 users are coming from a Kuro? I have an 8th generation 60 inch Pioneer Elite and the video card is / has gone out. I have a repair tech coming over tomorrow afternoon to check it out and see how much it costs to fix, etc.

If it is costly to fix, it appears the Panasonic 65GT50 would be an upgrade in that the overall picture would be brighter and the black levels a bit darker with color accuracy a bit better ( not to mention about 17% more viewing area )...

Any Kuro owners have any remorse upgrading to the GT50 series? Any happy camper upgraders out there?
post #2516 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by slb View Post

While it doesn't have a CMS or 10-pt grayscale adjustments, the GT can still yield improved PQ with ISF calibration of the custom mode.

Thank you for setting that straight. wink.gif
post #2517 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by djPerfectTrip View Post

People really worry about IR too much. Throw your stupid slides away once you are done 'breaking in' your TV. If you ever want to check IR after that, just turn off the lights and put it on an input that's not being used (black screen). But seriously, unless you can see it when you are watching normal programming and it stays there for a significant period of time there is no reason to worry about it. Seriously.
Agreed... I understand IR freaks out first-time Plasma users. I often see mild retention on an all black screen if I shut the lights out. It's not perfect, but I'm astonished something like this, which is "slightly annoying" at best, actually stops some people from buying Plasma displays.

There is no Plasma in the world that gets retention more visible than the average LED LCD's lighting non-uniformity!
post #2518 of 9713
So it seems I have a stripped screw on my 55GT50's stand. I was trying to level it out cause there was a noticable dip (yep a little OCD) to the left. i was able to finally level it and get the stripped screw out. Now I only have 3 screws in the stand. Do you think I could call Panny to get more screws or just go to Home Depot or Lowes to get a matching one?

I'd really hate to hear them say send it back to where you bought it for a replacement.
post #2519 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by melio111 View Post

So it seems I have a stripped screw on my 55GT50's stand. I was trying to level it out cause there was a noticable dip (yep a little OCD) to the left. i was able to finally level it and get the stripped screw out. Now I only have 3 screws in the stand. Do you think I could call Panny to get more screws or just go to Home Depot or Lowes to get a matching one?
I'd really hate to hear them say send it back to where you bought it for a replacement.

Good grief, man, go to the hardware store with one of the good scews and get a few that match.....biggrin.gif
post #2520 of 9713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by melio111 View Post

So it seems I have a stripped screw on my 55GT50's stand. I was trying to level it out cause there was a noticable dip (yep a little OCD) to the left. i was able to finally level it and get the stripped screw out. Now I only have 3 screws in the stand. Do you think I could call Panny to get more screws or just go to Home Depot or Lowes to get a matching one? I'd really hate to hear them say send it back to where you bought it for a replacement.

Is it the threads on the screw itself that got stripped? Or did you strip the threads in threaded insert that's inside the TV? If it's just the screw's threads then take it to a hardware store and buy a matching metric screw (test for correct size by threading it into a metric hex nut). But if you stripped the threads in the insert inside the TV (as a few people here have) then the TV needs to be replaced.

You should ALWAYS thread a screw by hand so as not to strip the threads. If it needs more force to the point that you need to use a screwdriver then you run the risk of stripping the threads. A screw should turn fairly easily by hand if things are lined up properly. If not, then wiggle things till you can turn it by hand.
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