AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 89

post #2641 of 9042
7/6/12 at 3:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by backofthepack View Post

You can pick up a pair of Samsung 3D glasses (about $20) at Best Buy and they will work on the GT50.

Thanks. Picked up glasses today. They work great and looks like my old ones will sell on eBay and allow me to purchase at least 4 pair total!
Reply
Reply

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #2642 of 9042
7/6/12 at 6:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Don't bother with the expense and frustration of buying a Calman and trying to tune it in yourself. The two options would then be to use D-Nice's settings on the ST50 Custom mode or D-Nice's settings on the Custom mode plus make eyeball adjustments to the 2 THX modes of the GT50. D-Nice's settings are for the NA sets but they can get you pretty close. Another option would be to try the settings posted in the Flatpanelshd review- great EU tech review site.
I like the THX Bright Room settings so much that I'm in no hurry to get it professionally calibrated (if at all). Also, I've plugged in Cnet's settings for Custom, made a few eyeball changes and I'm very pleased (D-Nice has not yet posted the settings for the GT50).

I agree with you. I have tried suggested Custom settings but I like the THX Bright room settings best, for day and night. Perhaps when D-Nice posts his settings I will like his better.
Reply
Reply
post #2643 of 9042
7/6/12 at 6:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

I agree with you. I have tried suggested Custom settings but I like the THX Bright room settings best, for day and night. Perhaps when D-Nice posts his settings I will like his better.

I do too. biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #2644 of 9042
7/6/12 at 7:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

I agree with you. I have tried suggested Custom settings but I like the THX Bright room settings best, for day and night. Perhaps when D-Nice posts his settings I will like his better.
Plugging in settings isn't a calibration though. It might get you a little closer than THX mode, but nothing beats an actual calibration IMO.
Reply
Reply
post #2645 of 9042
7/6/12 at 7:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydeluce View Post

I have not watched that much 3D to confirm this but just got finished watching 'John Carter' in (fake) 3D and though not the best blacks they did not seem extraordinarily light ( though I have not compared with 2D version ).
Do you have a particular movie and scene to compare 2D with 3D?
I have observed that resolution seems to drop to extremely low when ever fast motion pans occur in 3D though...

The black level in 3D seems more or less the same with all movies I have watched. So far only Alice In Wonderland, Tron II, and an IMAX documentary. It isn't aweful but just a bit distracting now that i am used to the amazing black levels of this set in 2D.

I tryed adjusting a few settings like brightness, gamma, etc. but it didn't really help. My last Samsung was the same way. I am sure it has to do with how bright the panel needs to get to make 3D look good with the dark glasses on.

I haven't noted any loss of resolution with fast motion, but i do notice camera pans looking extra choppy with 3D. Even to the point where sometimes I put the motion smoother on "low"

Overall I am still happy with the 3D PQ.
Edited by wattheF - 7/6/12 at 7:57pm
Reply
Reply
post #2646 of 9042
7/6/12 at 7:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Plugging in settings isn't a calibration though. It might get you a little closer than THX mode, but nothing beats an actual calibration IMO.

I agree that nothing beats a professional calibration, however in this case, where he cannot get it professionally calibrated, his happiness is all that matters. First time calibrating isn't easy and no guarantee that he'd achieve anything that's any better than whats already available on the forums. I'd bet he'd be happier, avoiding the cost and frustration of trying to do it for the first time, and instead enjoying THX Bright room mode and choosing one of the settings for Custom that professionals have so graciously provided for free.
Reply
Reply
post #2647 of 9042
7/6/12 at 7:49pm
Everyone starts somewhere... I was 'new' at calibrating at some point. I know that it takes some time to learn, but personally I wanted to learn. If you don't have any interest in learning yourself, then you shouldn't. But he already has the equipment. It's not like it's hard, you just have to learn the basics before you start. Once you have the knowledge, it's just a matter of doing it. Sure a more experienced calibrator and better equipment will yield better results, but even a rookie calibrator should get better results than what THX mode has to offer.

My first calibration was using a 10pt white balance (which gets you tighter RGB tracking), but I was able to get dE uv under 2 (under 3 is the target). THX mode avg is 5.35 according to Chad B's review of the GT50 (see the calibration report in his review and look at the 'DeltaE UV" graph for before and after). I'm by no means an experienced calibrator, but I was able to get dE uv under 3 in just 20-30min on my ST50 (after the set has warmed up etc.).

One thing to be aware of though, is to make sure that your meter isn't too old if you have a budget meter like the i1 D2. Cheaper meters deteriorate and lose accuracy over time. An entry level budget meter can drift in just a year or two if you don't store it in ideal conditions. More expensive meters use glass filters and last much longer before needing servicing. The only way to guarantee accuracy is by comparing it to an accurate meter.
Edited by rahzel - 7/6/12 at 8:53pm
Reply
Reply
post #2648 of 9042
7/6/12 at 8:00pm
Does the pixel shifter really do anything as far as helping to prevent IR?
Reply
Reply
post #2649 of 9042
7/6/12 at 9:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

Does the pixel shifter really do anything as far as helping to prevent IR?
D-Nice thinks that it does. I don't know.
Reply
Reply
post #2650 of 9042
7/6/12 at 9:51pm
So the 65ST is very similarly priced to the 60GT. If the pricing difference is so small, would anyone on this thread consider going for a much larger ST over the GT? Hopefully this doesn't count as price talk...
Reply
Reply
post #2651 of 9042
7/6/12 at 11:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigchingan View Post

So the 65ST is very similarly priced to the 60GT. If the pricing difference is so small, would anyone on this thread consider going for a much larger ST over the GT? Hopefully this doesn't count as price talk...


Well they always say go bigger than what you intended to get. I know it sounds kind of petty but I chose the GT over the ST due to styling of the set. I just thought the ST looked a little on the cheap side and more intune to the Samsung LCD's from a couple years back. When I saw the GT at Magnolia my whole view on plasmas changed, it just looked so sexy and it gave off a beautiful image.
Reply
Reply
post #2652 of 9042
7/6/12 at 11:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Everyone starts somewhere... I was 'new' at calibrating at some point. I know that it takes some time to learn, but personally I wanted to learn. If you don't have any interest in learning yourself, then you shouldn't. But he already has the equipment. It's not like it's hard, you just have to learn the basics before you start. Once you have the knowledge, it's just a matter of doing it. Sure a more experienced calibrator and better equipment will yield better results, but even a rookie calibrator should get better results than what THX mode has to offer.
My first calibration was using a 10pt white balance (which gets you tighter RGB tracking), but I was able to get dE uv under 2 (under 3 is the target). THX mode avg is 5.35 according to Chad B's review of the GT50 (see the calibration report in his review and look at the 'DeltaE UV" graph for before and after). I'm by no means an experienced calibrator, but I was able to get dE uv under 3 in just 20-30min on my ST50 (after the set has warmed up etc.).
One thing to be aware of though, is to make sure that your meter isn't too old if you have a budget meter like the i1 D2. Cheaper meters deteriorate and lose accuracy over time. An entry level budget meter can drift in just a year or two if you don't store it in ideal conditions. More expensive meters use glass filters and last much longer before needing servicing. The only way to guarantee accuracy is by comparing it to an accurate meter.

Thank you very much to anyone that answer my question.

Seems ST50 + a good meter is a way to go. May need to save up a little for a better meter. It time for me to start reading again.
Reply
Reply
post #2653 of 9042
7/7/12 at 1:49am
+1 !!!!!!!! same experience .... styling had a big impact on my decision. I also ended up with the 60gt50 over the 55gt ... got a great deal on the 60 inch... delivery scheduled for monday wink.gif
Reply
Reply
post #2654 of 9042
7/7/12 at 4:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by amortized View Post

Thank you very much to anyone that answer my question.
Seems ST50 + a good meter is a way to go. May need to save up a little for a better meter. It time for me to start reading again.
The i1 display pro is a good option. It has sealed filters so it should last longer than the i1 display 2/lt and is more accurate. The ColorMunki Display seems to be the same meter, but it's slightly crippled and takes 5x longer to measure. The ColorMunki only works with HCFR or the bundled X-Rite software. The retail i1 Display Pro works with CalMAN and HCFR AFAIK, but the OEM one works with CalMAN, HCFR and Chromapure.
Edited by rahzel - 7/7/12 at 4:07am
Reply
Reply
post #2655 of 9042
7/7/12 at 6:21am
OKI need some advice, due to my current set starting to die (Sony lcd rptv optical block) I will probably be buying sooner than planned. When comparing the GT and VT at BB, the 65VT's black seemed darker than the 60GT, both in THX. Is that due to the VT being better than the GT or is it just because of the size difference? I am planning on either the VT or GT in a 65", just not sure if the difference I saw in black levels would be as noticeable if they are the same size. Anyone have a mll reading for a 65" GT would be very helpful! Thanks.
Reply
Reply
post #2656 of 9042
7/7/12 at 9:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by melio111 View Post

Well they always say go bigger than what you intended to get. I know it sounds kind of petty but I chose the GT over the ST due to styling of the set. I just thought the ST looked a little on the cheap side and more intune to the Samsung LCD's from a couple years back. When I saw the GT at Magnolia my whole view on plasmas changed, it just looked so sexy and it gave off a beautiful image.

I did the same thing, I was walking into BB and kept flipping between the 55" ST or the 50" GT, I ended up going with the GT for the extra features (4 HDMI's) plus since it's not being mounted made it easier for me to justify paying the "GT premium". Now I just need to find a good Blu ray player and a sound bar.
Reply
Reply
post #2657 of 9042
7/7/12 at 11:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Rex View Post

How warm do the 2012 Panasonic GT/VT series plasmas run? Do they still heat up a moderately sized room ie. a bedroom? I am considering the 60GT50.

Could someone please answer this question. Thanks.
Reply
Reply
post #2658 of 9042
7/7/12 at 11:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Rex View Post

Could someone please answer this question. Thanks.

This would be great to know. My current 50 Inch Panny from 2007 is very warm, but my seating is about 15 feet from it and the room is rather large. My new living room will only be 12 x 17, so I'm not looking for a space heater.
Reply
Reply
post #2659 of 9042
7/7/12 at 12:25pm
We've had 90+ degree heat here the past several weeks and 100+ the past couple days, and granted, we've I've been running the A/C, but my 55-inch GT50 hasn't warmed up our moderately sized family room (about 12X20) at all.
Reply
Reply
post #2660 of 9042
7/7/12 at 1:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by weedeater View Post

My guess would be that a calibrated ST will look better than an uncalibrated GT in THX mode.

Probably correct but that would depend how close a particular GT's THX mode is to HD standards. It is not likely that it would be as close to Rec.709 HD standards as a calibrated ST.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Don't bother with the expense and frustration of buying a Calman and trying to tune it in yourself. The two options would then be to use D-Nice's settings on the ST50 Custom mode or D-Nice's settings on the Custom mode plus make eyeball adjustments to the 2 THX modes of the GT50. D-Nice's settings are for the NA sets but they can get you pretty close. Another option would be to try the settings posted in the Flatpanelshd review- great EU tech review site.
I like the THX Bright Room settings so much that I'm in no hurry to get it professionally calibrated (if at all). Also, I've plugged in Cnet's settings for Custom, made a few eyeball changes and I'm very pleased (D-Nice has not yet posted the settings for the GT50).

It doesn't matter where you get settings from. If they are from another display you have a 50/50 chance of your TV's picture improving.
Reply
Reply
post #2661 of 9042
7/7/12 at 1:38pm
Where can I find a calibration report with mll of a 65" GT50?
Reply
Reply
post #2662 of 9042
7/7/12 at 2:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc View Post

Where can I find a calibration report with mll of a 65" GT50?
The GT50/ST50 seem to have more or less the same mll as the VT50. D-Nice said that he measured a 60ST50 @ 0.0022fL and the 65VT50 at the shootout measured 0.0021fL (@ 60Hz). My meter is too cheap to measure that low but I plan on buying a new one soon.

When you viewed the GT and VT, was it in a brighter area? If so, then the difference was probably due to the darker filter on the VT50.
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Probably correct but that would depend how close a particular GT's THX mode is to HD standards. It is not likely that it would be as close to Rec.709 HD standards as a calibrated ST.
I would say 100% correct. The ST50 can get dE uv under 2 on average in Custom mode (see Chad B or D-Nice's calibration reports of the ST50). I HIGHLY doubt ANY GT50 or VT50 is that accurate in THX mode out of the box. Chad's review panel measured 5.35 dE uv on average in THX mode.
Edited by rahzel - 7/7/12 at 2:36pm
Reply
Reply
post #2663 of 9042
7/7/12 at 2:32pm
OK thank you very much! I think you are right, it is probably the better filter of the VT. It was just a bit darker on the letterbox bars than the GT and also showed dimmer reflections. Since this will be going in a medium bright living room I think I will go for the 65VT50!
Reply
Reply
post #2664 of 9042
7/7/12 at 3:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post


I would say 100% correct. The ST50 can get dE uv under 2 on average in Custom mode (see Chad B or D-Nice's calibration reports of the ST50). I HIGHLY doubt ANY GT50 or VT50 is that accurate in THX mode out of the box. Chad's review panel measured 5.35 dE uv on average in THX mode.

Once grayscale is calibrated on the STs & GTs the Gamut color points fall into place. The 2012 color decoder is doing its job admirably.
Reply
Reply
post #2665 of 9042
7/7/12 at 4:04pm
Amazon/CEVA=fail.

I ordered a 65gt50 from Amazon on 7/2 for 2.5. Amazon tracking had delivery on Friday 7/6; well after sitting around I found it was delivered 1.5 hours away to a 3rd party. Apparently CEVA doesn't service my area. CEVA said not to worry that it would be delivered late in the day friday. Around 5pm I got a call from emerald coast shipping and they set up a time for next WEDNESDAY! Their site says they delivery 7 days a week but the rep said they were closed over the weekend. I would have driven to pick it up today if they were open. Anyways amazon was nice enough to refund ~$80 for the shipping "I would have paid" as I have prime. They also extended my 14 Price Match from they day I receive it. Oh well, the new Panamax PS, 3d glasses and HDMI cables will have to wait.

I sold my 5 year old 46pz80 and my 54v10 will be moved to the bedroom. I also have Dish upgrading me to the Hopper system in a few days.
Reply
Reply
post #2666 of 9042
7/7/12 at 5:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Once grayscale is calibrated on the STs & GTs the Gamut color points fall into place. The 2012 color decoder is doing its job admirably.
Ya, dE94 on Chad's panel was under 1 on avg after calibration. Panasonic did a very good job this year up and down the lineup.
Reply
Reply
post #2667 of 9042
7/7/12 at 9:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Rex View Post

Could someone please answer this question. Thanks.

My 55'' GT50 does not get very hot at all. I would say warm but it does not heat up my average sized living room. I think the bias lights I have behind it might throw more heat.
Reply
Reply
post #2668 of 9042
7/7/12 at 9:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Rex View Post

How warm do the 2012 Panasonic GT/VT series plasmas run? Do they still heat up a moderately sized room ie. a bedroom? I am considering the 60GT50.

My 60GT50 emanates quite a bit of heat. I can't really quantify it but while the set itself isn't too hot to the touch, when I place my hand within 1 ft from the screen, front or back, I can certainly feel the heat. My room is huge so I don't think it makes a noticeable difference but if my set was in a bedroom then my guess is after a few hours of use it would certainly raise the temp by a degree or two at the very least. But it's all normal as you have to remember this set is using close to 500W at peak so that heat has to go somewhere.
Reply
Reply
post #2669 of 9042
7/8/12 at 8:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATC7 View Post

My 60GT50 emanates quite a bit of heat. ... it's all normal as you have to remember this set is using close to 500W at peak so that heat has to go somewhere.

Interesting questions about heat. Yes, plasma sets generate more heat than LCD sets do. Some of the power is used to make light, some is used to make sound, some of it is given back to the power company from a "power factor" return due to the electronics / inductors, and the rest shows up as heat. My GUESTIMATE is that an LCD probably turns 1/2 of its consumer power into heat. Most of them are EnergyStar rated so they draw less than 100 watts. So thats about 50 watts of heat and 50 watts for the picture and sound.

Cnet's measurement for the 55GT50 after calibration showed about 250 watts power draw. If I use the same 50 watts for useable picture and sound, that leaves about 200 watts for heat. So lets put that on some kind of practical scale. A small plug in space heater maxes out at 1500 watts. It would take 7 or 8 55 inch plasma TV's to equal one small space heater. Light bulbs (old style) are very inefficient; they convert about 90% of the power into heat. So, a 55 inch GT50 makes less heat than 4 60 watt bulbs in the room. An "avearge" candle gives off about 70 watts of heat energy. So, 3 candles is close to one 55 inch GT50.

Bottom line, if 4 light bulbs or 3 candles would heat your room too much, then plasma is not for you. I estimate it would take about 146 GT50's to replace my furnace biggrin.gif
Reply
Reply
post #2670 of 9042
7/8/12 at 8:43am
Thank you for all the heat replies. My current 50" Panny plasma uses 645 watts and does heat up the air conditioned master bedroom by 2 to 3 degrees if on for several hours (and the master bedroom has a very tall cathedral ceiling with a supply and a return.) If the New 60 is using even close to 500w peak, then it appears that the 60GT would heat the room up a bit, but less than my current set. Maybe by 1.5 degrees.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays

Gear mentioned in this thread:

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]