or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 133

post #3961 of 9713
I had my set professionally calibrated a couple of months ago. I had originally been using the CNET settings but the calibration resulted in changes to most if not all settings. I watch in a darkened cinema room so the calibration was specific to my environment. I added the Darbee after 2 weeks ago. I'm adding a Monoprice video switch so I can watch Blu-rays or my AVR output.
post #3962 of 9713
how much a difference did you notice after the calibration? and also how much difference in PQ have you noticed after you installed the Darbee?
post #3963 of 9713
Calibration reduced the contrast to 45 from the original 79 (if I remember). All the advanced settings changed significantly as we'll. I would say that the picture had better detail in contrast and color was more natural. It is easiest to see wren I switch between calibrated and Cinema since my CNET settings are gone.

BTW: the calibration took over 3 hours using a lot of computerized measuring gear.

The Darbee effect can be seen best (for me) on live shots in the detail-faces are better defined, for example. I would describe it as increased clarity and perceived depth in the picture. I have yet to try it on Blu-ray but I did last night on a 3D satellite channel and the difference was observable.

My conclusion is that it is worthwhile, at least for me, to get professional calibration. I will be keeping the Darbee since it has an observable benefit to my calibrated picture. Even my wife noticed a difference and she wouldn't know a Darbee from a hole in the ground smile.gif
post #3964 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALIAS360 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I'm not involved in the Darbee discussion, but I'd like to point out that I've maintained lists of links to reports about owner's calibrations that have been done by professionals who are active here at AVS since August 19, 2006.
I've linked all the reports that I've found, and I don't recall any that indicated that the owner didn't like the work done for him or her because of it's "reference" look.
If you are referring to owners who use other peoples settings or calibrate for themselves, than that's another matter. Even D-Nice, who is a well regarded professional calibrator, makes it clear that folks who use his posted settings are not getting reference picture quality, and that they should adjust those setting to their own taste.
If you would like to check for yourself just use the link in the signature area at the bottom of my post. wink.gif
For the record, I only include reports that include the professional calibrator's AVS user name.
Enjoy. tongue.gif

hey htwaits my comment wasn't to offend anyone and especially not calibrators.
I didn't think you offended anyone. tongue.gif

There are people who do say they don't want a professionally calibrated display, it's just that I haven't found any who said it after they had a display calibrated by a professional with a good reputation here at AVS. I've always wondered how they know they don't like what they haven't tried. wink.gif
post #3965 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesm1 View Post

Calibration reduced the contrast to 45 from the original 79 (if I remember). All the advanced settings changed significantly as we'll. I would say that the picture had better detail in contrast and color was more natural. It is easiest to see wren I switch between calibrated and Cinema since my CNET settings are gone.

BTW: the calibration took over 3 hours using a lot of computerized measuring gear.

The Darbee effect can be seen best (for me) on live shots in the detail-faces are better defined, for example. I would describe it as increased clarity and perceived depth in the picture. I have yet to try it on Blu-ray but I did last night on a 3D satellite channel and the difference was observable.

My conclusion is that it is worthwhile, at least for me, to get professional calibration. I will be keeping the Darbee since it has an observable benefit to my calibrated picture. Even my wife noticed a difference and she wouldn't know a Darbee from a hole in the ground smile.gif
If your calibration was done by someone here at AVS, pleas post his/her user name and I will include your report in the lists that are linked at the bottom of my post.
post #3966 of 9713
My calibration was done by a professional calibrator here in the Toronto area. He specializes in Panasonic and Samsung calibrations with a focus on Plasma. He personally owns an E8000 but says he doesn't find much difference between the 50 series and the E8000s once calibrated. He also said he didn't find much difference between the ST, GT and VT calibrations once completed. He was here well before "Darbee-izing". smile.gif
post #3967 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal33 View Post

Thanks for your input guys. As of right now I'm leaning towards getting the Darbee since I watch more Directv than blu rays. But I won't make a decision until the break-in period is over and after I calibrate it with my Disney WOW disc. The other side of me says to NOT get the Darbee and NOT get it calibrated. Instead, save the money and get more 3D blu rays since I'm already quite happy with the display.
On another note, I'm also thinking about getting some LED backlighting. I've read that it can improve the viewing experience, but what about for 3D content? Will the help 3D viewing as well?

You might want to try what I just did. I am in the break in period so I am zoomed watching football and the artifacts at 1080i were very distracting. I put the output to 720p and had a drastic improvement. You might want to check that out, its free.
post #3968 of 9713
BB came today and dropped off my 65GT today. Delievery guys were great and were happy to take it out of the box, attach the stand, and wait while I made sure it worked. Guys even had a flash light to make sure there were no small cracks or issues with the screen before we turned it on.

As for the TV all I can say is WOW. Popped in a copy of Planet Earth and sat back in amazment. Coming from a 42" DLP it is night and day the difference this set provide. Overall I couldn't be happy with my entire experience and will be enjoying this set for years.

Now my last question is about bias lighting. Does anyone currently do this with their GT and what do you use? Thanks!
post #3969 of 9713
Need some info on the GT50: I need to know if Intelligent Frame Creation can be turned on for 60Hz non-movie sources like a video game. If so, can it also be turned on for 3D mode video games? And does turning it on alleviate the flickering ghost afterimage you get when panning the camera in 30FPS console games? Thanks in advance!!
post #3970 of 9713
Does anyone who plays video games use the game picture setting? Or do you just keep it on custom? Is there much of a response time difference with game mode?
post #3971 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by 413X3 View Post

Does anyone who plays video games use the game picture setting? Or do you just keep it on custom? Is there much of a response time difference with game mode?

Yes there is a significant difference. Stick with Game mode.
post #3972 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrenheit View Post

Yes there is a significant difference. Stick with Game mode.

I concur 100% - game mode is sweet.
post #3973 of 9713
Come on, I see all this talk of Game mode, but no one can tell me if you can enable Intelligent Frame Creation in 2D games and in 3D games? I ask about both because sometimes you can enable this kind of motion interpolation for 2D games but not 3D games. No comments about how it will increase the lag, I know, I just want to know if it is possible or not! Thank you.
post #3974 of 9713
Is getting a panel with a handful of dead pixels still the norm? I'm about to buy another Panasonic plasma, my last being in 2009. Some of you might remember me.

Back in 2009, I went through two Panasonic 46PZ85Us before finally settling with the third, a 46PZ800u. My girlfriend thought I was crazy. There I was standing in front of our new plasma (inches away like a creep) watching slides of solid colors flicker through gradations, picking out pixels "stuck" on primary colors during the white screens, or stuck on blue/dark during the red slides. I literally had a migraine the next morning, and looking back on it now it's very comical to picture me sitting on the couch watching a pixel flickering DVD hoping the pixels would unstick themselves while I sat there with a headache watching this crazy pixel flickering program.

Could I actually see those dead pixels while watching TV? Hell no. Was I upset knowing that it wasn't absolutely perfect? Yes for some reason.

It became laughable - taking the time off work, my coworkers knowing I was about to go through another "exam". Finally, on the third set, it became so superstitious (I had heard everything: "don't turn it on at first because of the temperature change from the truck") I had my delivery guy put on my provided latex gloves before gripping the screen to put it on the stand, and after they left, I just sat there, staring at the TV, still not turned on. At this early stage of the third set, this was the best it was going to get. Once the set was turned on, that's when the inevitable dead pixels would be seen and my anxious obsession would set it. So I just stared, at my beautiful new set, refusing to plug it in.

When I finally turned it on, it too did have some dead pixels. But this time, all the dead pixels were literally on the very bottom horizontal row. It was impossible to look at the bottom row of pixels and watch content on the display, so I said "forget it, I'm not returning a third set and awaiting a fourth tv because this is INSANE". In the end, I'm glad I swapped out the first two, because in the time to get to the third set, the price came down on the flagship model, so I got a single-pane of glass and a THX mode out of the deal (and a free blu-ray player was a bundled deal of the month or something with that particular set) -- but having said that, I'm not sure if I'm willing to deal with the embarrassment of seeing the same delivery guy with the look on his face of ":hear we go again" (he not only delivered the sets, but came to pick each one up), the apologizing to my boss for his understanding of me leaving work early again, my friends cackling at the hysteria of the situation, the weeks without a TV, and the actual migraine headaches.

So what am I to do? The wiser person in me knows I should expect a handful of pixels to be dead when there's over 2 MILLION of them on the panel. The idiot in me is going to say "put in the JPEG SD card of the solid colors slideshow and find the dead pixels". It's like daring myself as a child to do something I know I shouldn't do, like picking a scab or something. Anybody relate to this nonsense?
post #3975 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

Come on, I see all this talk of Game mode, but no one can tell me if you can enable Intelligent Frame Creation in 2D games and in 3D games? I ask about both because sometimes you can enable this kind of motion interpolation for 2D games but not 3D games. No comments about how it will increase the lag, I know, I just want to know if it is possible or not! Thank you.

yes in both modes you can use IFC...thanks to no one to answer my question about IR...It faded away with 24 hours of Scrolling Bar...
post #3976 of 9713
fyi, Amazon's price on the 60GT50 has dropped back down to $1899
post #3977 of 9713
Please excuse my ignorance, hope someone can answer an "Old Man's" question.
On my GT50, when I watch netflix or Vudu, "Picture" options does NOT have the THX color settings, only Cinema -Vivid - std -game.
Is this NORMAL ?
THANKS in advance:)
post #3978 of 9713
Finally pulled the trigger on a P60GT50. It arrived today and I'm disappointed that there is no analog audio out. I'm a bit old school with a Carver C-1 Sonic Holography analog stereo pre-amp and now have no way to listen to the audio from OTA, net apps, etc. except via the TV speakers themselves.
post #3979 of 9713
Look for a converter for the audio I think I remember some one on here that did that.
post #3980 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

Finally pulled the trigger on a P60GT50. It arrived today and I'm disappointed that there is no analog audio out. I'm a bit old school with a Carver C-1 Sonic Holography analog stereo pre-amp and now have no way to listen to the audio from OTA, net apps, etc. except via the TV speakers themselves.

I listen to the TV via wireless headphones and use a Gefen TV Digital Audio Decoder GTV-DD-2-AA to convert the optical audio output, which is always on, to left/right analog output. It can be bought for $83 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=660218&is=REG&A=details&Q=. Do not be tempted to buy the cheaper model since it won't handle 5.1 audio output. I discovered that if the power pack that is plugged into AC and provides DC power to the decoder loses AC power for more than a brief interval, you lose the audio output unless you unplug it from AC and plug it back in. It works very well; regardless what you are watching any audio that would come out of the speakers can be heard via my headphones, even if I mute the speakers. Great for watching TV without bothering my sleeping wife. The headphones also eliminate arguments about the volume setting of the TV.
post #3981 of 9713
Yes its normal. The THX modes are not available for all sources. They are not available for the SD card slot and I don't think with the USB inputs either.

I have gotten the general feeling that most people (myself included) prefer the Custom mode with the C-Net settings plugged in. This mode is available for ALL the inputs although you will have to set it up for each different input since each input can be customized independently.
post #3982 of 9713
So its been almost 2 weeks now since I've this TV and I've mixed feelings about it. Firstly the Picture quality is top notch. Best I've seen. 3D is pretty awesome too. Things which are bothering me are Imagine retention, SD picture quality and USB ports function. When I watch some sports or same Chanel for 1-2 hours constantly. Chanel logo leaves IR there. I mostly uses THX Bright room settings and IR is really bothering me now as it makes me worry more instead of letting me enjoy the television. Its only visible in Scroll bar mode though not in general use. But i'm worried if I won't run anti image retention it might turn into a burn in after a long period of time. Even after running hours of Scroll bars IR only fades away don't go away completely. Secondly SD channels look crap.. Not sure if TV tries to upscale it automatically or I've to do something to upscale the PQ of SD channels. Also one of the usb port don't work properly at times it does and others it won't. Also HDD is only detected in first USB port. its not detected in rest of ports..

Basically PQ is too good to believe but IR is really bothering me now. Did I got the bad piece? or its suppose to be like that? any suggestions regarding IR, up-scaling and USB ports would be really appreciated.
post #3983 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

Finally pulled the trigger on a P60GT50. It arrived today and I'm disappointed that there is no analog audio out. I'm a bit old school with a Carver C-1 Sonic Holography analog stereo pre-amp and now have no way to listen to the audio from OTA, net apps, etc. except via the TV speakers themselves.

Yea, this kinda annoyed me initially but I got over it. It has become the industry standard to only provide optical audio output. As indicated above, there are dozens of converters that will dumb down the 6-channel optical output to simple stereo with 2 RCA jacks and/or a stereo mini-jack. You need one that has an AC3 (Dolby Digital) decoder since the GT-50 does not have an uncompressed PCM only mode.

I can't provide details, but you can also go with a Bluetooth adapter and bypass the wires altogether. Bluetooth will allow volume control from the TV's remote whereas the optical jack has no level control and volume must be controlled by whatever its connected to.

The GT-50's built-in audio is actually pretty good for a flat panel but simply can not deliver "theater quality" audio for movies or TV shows. If you are going to tie it into a receiver (and I think that is a good idea) I suggest you just update the receiver. Some of the "old" amps are truly wonderful, but ultimately they just give you stereo. The 5.1 and 7.1 high bit rate audio available on almost everything now is worth the upgrade to a new AV receiver that can provide a better audio match the great PQ of the TV.
post #3984 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by alljunkie View Post

.... .
Basically PQ is too good to believe but IR is really bothering me now. Did I got the bad piece? or its suppose to be like that? any suggestions regarding IR, up-scaling and USB ports would be really appreciated.

USB: Well, I gave up on the USB simply because there is no support for DTS audio. I initially just connected an external HDD and ran movies from it. Got tired of dumbing-down all the audio to AC3 so just dumped the on-board player. Replaced the HDD with an AIOS media player + the HDD. Player is set to up-convert everything to 1080p; video looks great. Player supports every audio format I have thrown at it so audio is now great. Could Panasonic have done a better job with the USB, yes but none of the manufacturers have USB capabilities that will match a dedicated media player. So, just accept the USB capability for what it is and move on.

IR: I have never cared for the Bright Room mode. Its just too "hard" for my taste. I have been running the C-Net settings on all the inputs and have not seen any indication of IR The last 3 Sundays have seen about 20 or so hours of football and I have no IR from FOX or NBC and the full time graphics they display. All I can suggest is to switch to a more screen friendly mode when there are potentially IR elements present. Should it be this way ? No, but it is nevertheless.

SD: I think there are more than enough reports now to indicate that the scaler in the latest Panasonic models is not as capable as it should be. I have no issue with any of my OTA broadcast signals (1080i, 720p, and 480i) but folks are reporting sub-par quality from cable sources, low res games, other. It's not your individual set, its the scaler in the xx-50 line. If you have the ability to upscale the signal before the TV, do it. 480i and 1080i may not change much but 720p can show improvement. If your source provides HDMI output, the Darblet is a unique option. It provides some kind of custom trans-dimensional video processor and scaling in a single box.
Edited by tpollagi - 10/8/12 at 6:50pm
post #3985 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by alljunkie View Post

So its been almost 2 weeks now since I've this TV and I've mixed feelings about it. Firstly the Picture quality is top notch. Best I've seen. 3D is pretty awesome too. Things which are bothering me are Imagine retention, SD picture quality and USB ports function. When I watch some sports or same Chanel for 1-2 hours constantly. Chanel logo leaves IR there. I mostly uses THX Bright room settings and IR is really bothering me now as it makes me worry more instead of letting me enjoy the television. Its only visible in Scroll bar mode though not in general use. But i'm worried if I won't run anti image retention it might turn into a burn in after a long period of time. Even after running hours of Scroll bars IR only fades away don't go away completely. Secondly SD channels look crap.. Not sure if TV tries to upscale it automatically or I've to do something to upscale the PQ of SD channels. Also one of the usb port don't work properly at times it does and others it won't. Also HDD is only detected in first USB port. its not detected in rest of ports..
Basically PQ is too good to believe but IR is really bothering me now. Did I got the bad piece? or its suppose to be like that? any suggestions regarding IR, up-scaling and USB ports would be really appreciated.

Well, last weekend was my wife's birthday house party and I had a 4 hr megamix of music playing through my surround system and displaying this image on xbmc on my GT 50. I was curious if I would get some IR since I never had any. Anyways I woked up the next morning and guess what? NADA, nothing, NO IR. The picture was perfect as usual. I didn't run the scroll bars either. It makes me wonder how some owners get minor IR from watching sports with logos for a couple of hours when I have a still image for 4hrs and I also watch sports all the time and they all have logos and nothing.

SD always look like crap anyway but I never watch them. Only HD for me. Other than my son watching some cartoons on sd but they look pretty good. As for USB have never use them since I have a HTPC so I have really no need to use them.

This is the picture I had on display.
post #3986 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrenheit View Post

Yes there is a significant difference. Stick with Game mode.

Okay thanks.

Do you use the cnet picture settings or leave it default?

I'm trying to find a good setting for video games and a different one for directv.
post #3987 of 9713
There is an option burried in the menus that can help stop IR. It says it moves the pixels around slightly so no image ever stays stationary. I've been sick the past week and have watched a bunch of sports on tv, played some video games, and no IR at all. Beautiful picture that I just need to tweak the picture settings. Not sure what changes need to be made from the cnet settings for my tv since it's a 65 inch.
post #3988 of 9713
Need a quick answer on this and I apologize if this is a stupid question. Just bought a 65GT50 itll be here on Thursday. I am coming from a DLP where I always had to "rig" my connections to make them work like I wanted because it was older technology (lack of inputs)

Anyway I only do OTA "no cable tv" and it's running to a Tivo. I want to make it where I can have just my Tivo & TV on and that'll work fine or turn on my Receiver for better sound when I want it. To do this can I run HDMI from my Tivo to TV and a Optical cable from the TV (Digital Audio Output) to my Receiver? This seems easy and self explanatory but want to check as I was never able to do this with my DLP.

Thanks in advance!
post #3989 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALIAS360 View Post

Look for a converter for the audio I think I remember some one on here that did that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

I listen to the TV via wireless headphones and use a Gefen TV Digital Audio Decoder GTV-DD-2-AA to convert the optical audio output, which is always on
Quote:
Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

Yea, this kinda annoyed me initially but I got over it. It has become the industry standard to only provide optical audio output. As indicated above, there are dozens of converters that will dumb down the 6-channel optical output to simple stereo with 2 RCA jacks and/or a stereo mini-jack. You need one that has an AC3 (Dolby Digital) decoder since the GT-50 does not have an uncompressed PCM only mode.

Thanks all.

The Gefen product seems expensive for what it is but I guess the Dolby license adds to the cost (and it does seem to be the least inexpensive of those such devices that actually work). At this point I'm wondering whether or not something like a discontinued pre-pro with audiophile grade (or at least as good as my Carver C-1) analog that can decode the Dolby from the TV would not be the smarter choice. I really wouldn't miss the Sonic Holography (as cool as it is to demonstrate) and my only outboard gear is an Oppo BDP-93 (which I purchased for it's analog audio quality) and a Sony XDRF1HD tuner.

As I wouldn't need HDMI switching, etc. maybe something like the Emotiva UMC-1 (now $499 from the manufacturer) would be a good choice (but I know little of it's analog quality at this point and am only assuming it can decode the optical feed from the TV) - plus I wouldn't have to get up to change sources.

Please add any additional input or thoughts you may have along this line.

Chris
Edited by darkphader - 10/9/12 at 8:17am
post #3990 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billabongi View Post

Need a quick answer on this and I apologize if this is a stupid question. Just bought a 65GT50 itll be here on Thursday. I am coming from a DLP where I always had to "rig" my connections to make them work like I wanted because it was older technology (lack of inputs)
Anyway I only do OTA "no cable tv" and it's running to a Tivo. I want to make it where I can have just my Tivo & TV on and that'll work fine or turn on my Receiver for better sound when I want it. To do this can I run HDMI from my Tivo to TV and a Optical cable from the TV (Digital Audio Output) to my Receiver? This seems easy and self explanatory but want to check as I was never able to do this with my DLP.
Thanks in advance!

Similar to my situation, moving from a DLP that had analog out to a PDP that doesn't, except that my preamp is ancient and doesn't do digital or optical. As I understand it if your receiver decodes Dolby than you should be fine with the hookup as presented.

Chris
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]