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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 134

post #3991 of 9047
10/9/12 at 8:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billabongi View Post

Need a quick answer on this and I apologize if this is a stupid question. Just bought a 65GT50 itll be here on Thursday. I am coming from a DLP where I always had to "rig" my connections to make them work like I wanted because it was older technology (lack of inputs)
Anyway I only do OTA "no cable tv" and it's running to a Tivo. I want to make it where I can have just my Tivo & TV on and that'll work fine or turn on my Receiver for better sound when I want it. To do this can I run HDMI from my Tivo to TV and a Optical cable from the TV (Digital Audio Output) to my Receiver? This seems easy and self explanatory but want to check as I was never able to do this with my DLP.
Thanks in advance!

Similar to my situation, moving from a DLP that had analog out to a PDP that doesn't, except that my preamp is ancient and doesn't do digital or optical. As I understand it if your receiver decodes Dolby than you should be fine with the hookup as presented.

Chris
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post #3992 of 9047
10/9/12 at 8:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

Thanks all.
The Gefen product seems expensive for what it is but I guess the Dolby license adds to the cost (and it does seem to the least inexpensive of those such devices that actually work). At this point I'm wondering wether or not something like a discontinued pre-pro with audiophile grade (or at least as good as my Carver C-1) analog that can decode the Dolby from the TV would not be the smarter choice. I really wouldn't miss the Sonic Holography (as cool as it is to demonstrate) and my only outboard gear is an Oppo BDP-93 (which I purchased for it's analog audio quality) and a Sony XDRF1HD tuner.
As I wouldn't need HDMI switching, etc. maybe something like the Emotiva UMC-1 (now $499 from the manufacturer) would be a good choice (but I know little of it's analog quality at this point and am only assuming it can decode the optical feed from the TV) - plus I wouldn't have to get up to change sources.
Please add any additional input or thoughts you may have along this line.
Chris

With my old TV I took the analog audio output directly from the cable box or the DVD player via switch--but I got tired of getting up to change sources. That is why I bought the decoder. The reason the model I suggested costs more is that it can handle 5.1 audio; the cheaper one cannot.
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post #3993 of 9047
10/9/12 at 9:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

The reason the model I suggested costs more is that it can handle 5.1 audio; the cheaper one cannot.

Right. My previous research (mostly reviews on Amazon) had determined that your recommended model was pretty much the lowest price point of those that actually worked. But there were also some use issues reported which had me rethinking the best way to solve the problem is to throw a bit more change ($) at it.

I do have an old Outlaw 950 (in fact a whole outdated 7.1 channel system) that I could use but just don't think its analog section sounds as sweet as the Carver and where I'm at there is just no room for surround plus I don't even find it necessary. IMO two good channels are better than multiple ones of lesser caliber.

Also have a Pioneer DV-59AVi and could add that back in if it would solve my decoding issue but it has no Toslink input, although it does have Pioneer's proprietray iLink which is theorectically a two way interface but I have no idea if Toslink can interface with iLink.

Chris
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post #3994 of 9047
10/9/12 at 9:40am
Another idea! Add the new Oppo BDP-103 which has HDMI in and use a Toslink to HDMI converter.
Although if it (and its predecessor) had Toslink in they would have solved such issues for many users.
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post #3995 of 9047
10/9/12 at 1:50pm
THANK you for reply, when you say C-Net settings, what exactly is that
THANKS
New to all of this, this is my first Flat panel TV [ hard to believe I know ]
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post #3996 of 9047
10/9/12 at 2:04pm
Here is the link for CNET Picture Settings http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-566046/panasonic-tc-p55gt50-picture-settings/
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post #3997 of 9047
10/9/12 at 3:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post


This is the picture I had on display.

I wouldn't mind if this was burned into my display. biggrin.gif
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post #3998 of 9047
10/9/12 at 5:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billabongi View Post

Need a quick answer on this and I apologize if this is a stupid question. Just bought a 65GT50 itll be here on Thursday. I am coming from a DLP where I always had to "rig" my connections to make them work like I wanted because it was older technology (lack of inputs)
Anyway I only do OTA "no cable tv" and it's running to a Tivo. I want to make it where I can have just my Tivo & TV on and that'll work fine or turn on my Receiver for better sound when I want it. To do this can I run HDMI from my Tivo to TV and a Optical cable from the TV (Digital Audio Output) to my Receiver? This seems easy and self explanatory but want to check as I was never able to do this with my DLP.
Thanks in advance!

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

Similar to my situation, moving from a DLP that had analog out to a PDP that doesn't, except that my preamp is ancient and doesn't do digital or optical. As I understand it if your receiver decodes Dolby than you should be fine with the hookup as presented.
Chris

Yes and No rolleyes.gif

HDMI into the TV and optical audio out will give digital audio out BUT down-mixed to a 2 channel PCM stream (digital stereo). Because of digital copy protection, only signals that "originate" from within the TV are output with DD 5.1 on the optical jack (like OTA from the TV's tuner and Netflix from the on-board app) HDMI sources are external sources and are output as 2 channel PCM. ((Yes the GT-50 can output PCM; you just don't have the ability to force it to do so when you want.))

Hook it up as you indicated + add an audio connection from the TiVo to the receiver to maintain the full DD 5.1 audio that is provided with most OTA broadcasts.

If your receiver is pretty "new" and has HDMI connections with support for ARC, you can connect the receiver to the TV's HDMI-ARC channel and get the full multi-channel audio without using the optical connection at all.
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post #3999 of 9047
10/9/12 at 5:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHIFTADVISOR View Post

THANK you for reply, when you say C-Net settings, what exactly is that
THANKS
New to all of this, this is my first Flat panel TV [ hard to believe I know ]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALIAS360 View Post

Here is the link for CNET Picture Settings http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-566046/panasonic-tc-p55gt50-picture-settings/

So what you want to do is push the MENU button then set the Picture mode to "CUSTOM"

There are a series of settings and sub-menus that have values that can be changed to the ones provided by the TV review folks at C-Net.com (thats the link above provided by Alias360). They used calibration equipment to adjust a GT50 and got what they thought was the "best" picture. Those are the values that they ended up with.

Your TV is not going to be exactly the same as theirs was; but it will very close. After you have watched the TV with those settings for few weeks feel free to make "tweaks" to those settings that better suite your personal taste or you may be happy with the settings as they are.
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post #4000 of 9047
10/9/12 at 6:43pm
Just a heads up for those in the market, I popped into BB yesterday and they price matched amazons $1899.00 price for the 60GT50.
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post #4001 of 9047
10/10/12 at 4:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

Yes and No rolleyes.gif
HDMI into the TV and optical audio out will give digital audio out BUT down-mixed to a 2 channel PCM stream (digital stereo). Because of digital copy protection, only signals that "originate" from within the TV are output with DD 5.1 on the optical jack (like OTA from the TV's tuner and Netflix from the on-board app) HDMI sources are external sources and are output as 2 channel PCM. ((Yes the GT-50 can output PCM; you just don't have the ability to force it to do so when you want.))
Hook it up as you indicated + add an audio connection from the TiVo to the receiver to maintain the full DD 5.1 audio that is provided with most OTA broadcasts.
If your receiver is pretty "new" and has HDMI connections with support for ARC, you can connect the receiver to the TV's HDMI-ARC channel and get the full multi-channel audio without using the optical connection at all.

Crap! I was trying to avoid the tivo to av receiver link, but guess that's not going to work, oh well! Thanks for the help
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post #4002 of 9047
10/10/12 at 4:32pm
Anybody know why Amazon suspended it's sales of the GT50 series? It currently has a message saying "While this item is available from other marketplace sellers on this page, it is not currently offered by Amazon.com because customers have told us there may be something wrong with our inventory of the item, the way we are shipping it, or the way it's described here. (Thanks for the tip!)

We're working to fix the problem as quickly as possible."
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post #4003 of 9047
10/10/12 at 5:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebadooo View Post

Anybody know why Amazon suspended it's sales of the GT50 series? It currently has a message saying "While this item is available from other marketplace sellers on this page, it is not currently offered by Amazon.com because customers have told us there may be something wrong with our inventory of the item, the way we are shipping it, or the way it's described here. (Thanks for the tip!)
We're working to fix the problem as quickly as possible."

It appears to be just the 50". On checking the other sizes I do not see that mentioned.
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post #4004 of 9047
10/11/12 at 1:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

I listen to the TV via wireless headphones and use a Gefen TV Digital Audio Decoder GTV-DD-2-AA to convert the optical audio output, which is always on, to left/right analog output. It can be bought for $83 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=660218&is=REG&A=details&Q=. Do not be tempted to buy the cheaper model since it won't handle 5.1 audio output. I discovered that if the power pack that is plugged into AC and provides DC power to the decoder loses AC power for more than a brief interval, you lose the audio output unless you unplug it from AC and plug it back in. It works very well; regardless what you are watching any audio that would come out of the speakers can be heard via my headphones, even if I mute the speakers. Great for watching TV without bothering my sleeping wife. The headphones also eliminate arguments about the volume setting of the TV.

Would this converter allow me to adjust volume when hearing through my headphones?
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post #4005 of 9047
10/11/12 at 6:17am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterLive013 View Post

Would this converter allow me to adjust volume when hearing through my headphones?

No, the TV doesn't have a variable audio output - just line-level - so any device or headphone setup etc that you connect to the Optical Audio Output has to have it's own volume control whether you use a D-A audio converter or not.
Edited by RandyWalters - 10/11/12 at 6:22am
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post #4006 of 9047
10/11/12 at 7:00am
After reading all the glowing reports of this year's Pansonic plasma series, I am seriously thinking of purchasing the 60GT50. I have a few questions to share...

1. I just bought a LG5600 a year ago. While the picture in general and the black levels are good for an edge-lit TV, the bleed of this TV is driving me nuts. Do you think there will be a difference in PQ between these two sets?

2. Considering number 1 above, any ideas how to ''sell'' this to my wife? (A chronic 'battle' for many of us!)

3. In terms of break-in I was thinking of running a full screen TV series (blu-ray) at lower contrast / brightness settings. Is this OK?

Thanks in advance for any comments / suggestions.
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post #4007 of 9047
10/11/12 at 8:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

No, the TV doesn't have a variable audio output - just line-level - so any device or headphone setup etc that you connect to the Optical Audio Output has to have it's own volume control whether you use a D-A audio converter or not.

Randy is correct. I use Sennheiser RS120 wireless headphones. It costs $100 online. It has its own volume control, uses rechargeable batteries, and being RF it allows the signal to be heard even in an adjacent room. You can go to the kitchen or bathroom and still hear the audio.
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post #4008 of 9047
10/11/12 at 11:22am
UPDATE: I ended up returning this TV. While the picture was awesome, the pulsating flickering whites issue literally gave me headaches. I wish there was a PLASMA that didn't exhibit this issue but I am in a small minority it seems. I ended up purchasing an LCD instead. Of course the GT50 is a difficult TV to live up to. Good luck to all!
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post #4009 of 9047
10/11/12 at 1:05pm
Just received my 60" GT50 yesterday from Amazon. Ordered on the 8th. No problems. Can't wait to hook everything up and start breaking it in tonight. smile.gif
(stepping up from a burnt-in 50-inch TC-P50V10)
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post #4010 of 9047
10/11/12 at 2:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

USB: Well, I gave up on the USB simply because there is no support for DTS audio. I initially just connected an external HDD and ran movies from it. Got tired of dumbing-down all the audio to AC3 so just dumped the on-board player. Replaced the HDD with an AIOS media player + the HDD. Player is set to up-convert everything to 1080p; video looks great. Player supports every audio format I have thrown at it so audio is now great. Could Panasonic have done a better job with the USB, yes but none of the manufacturers have USB capabilities that will match a dedicated media player. So, just accept the USB capability for what it is and move on.
IR: I have never cared for the Bright Room mode. Its just too "hard" for my taste. I have been running the C-Net settings on all the inputs and have not seen any indication of IR The last 3 Sundays have seen about 20 or so hours of football and I have no IR from FOX or NBC and the full time graphics they display. All I can suggest is to switch to a more screen friendly mode when there are potentially IR elements present. Should it be this way ? No, but it is nevertheless.
.

I don't care about much the audio formats and video formats yet as I'm still building my system and surround system has not been added yet. I'm just worried about the quality of ports as HDD is detected at times and not at others, also its only detected in 1st usb port not in rest 2 ports.

I would have tried CNET settings but I can't as I'm from India and Asian tvs and American tvs come with different set of settings. I think American tvs have more options than Asian ones. As no one here even know what calibration is. As tv is in very bright room, THX bright room settings is pretty much best option for me seeing I can't get my tv calibrated.

I've attached picture I took while running scroll bars, that is IR I got after watching a Chanel with white logo for just 30 mins. It seems pretty bad to me, I've to run scroll bar for like 4-5 hours to get them dim they don't even go away completely. Please can you check in your tv if you are getting anything like that and suggest if this is normal or not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

Well, last weekend was my wife's birthday house party and I had a 4 hr megamix of music playing through my surround system and displaying this image on xbmc on my GT 50. I was curious if I would get some IR since I never had any. Anyways I woked up the next morning and guess what? NADA, nothing, NO IR. The picture was perfect as usual. I didn't run the scroll bars either. It makes me wonder how some owners get minor IR from watching sports with logos for a couple of hours when I have a still image for 4hrs and I also watch sports all the time and they all have logos and nothing.
SD always look like crap anyway but I never watch them. Only HD for me. Other than my son watching some cartoons on sd but they look pretty good. As for USB have never use them since I have a HTPC so I have really no need to use them.

I think you are lucky or I've ended up with bad TV which is more prone to IR, Colored logos are not leaving IR just White logos are,anything white on tv leave IR even texts do, if its left there for 15-20 mins. Though IR is only visible while running scroll bars but I'm worried if I won't run scroll bar IR might turn into Burn-in in long run. would really appreciate if you would check your tv and suggest if you are getting something like this or not.

Thanks


Edited by alljunkie - 10/11/12 at 2:10pm
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post #4011 of 9047
10/11/12 at 3:02pm
Went to the magnolia theater and recorded the vt50 next to the e8000 plasma and sharp elite next to the e7000..there not in the best quality kuz I recorded on my phn but if u wana see the comparison, go to YouTube and search Panasonic vt50 vs Samsung e8000 or Samsung e7000 vs sharp elite..my YouTube I'd is checarlos956214
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post #4012 of 9047
10/11/12 at 4:12pm
Here some Pictures:





























TCP60GT50/Samsung LED TV Picture Quality Demo
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post #4013 of 9047
10/11/12 at 4:24pm
Where did u get that demo disc man
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post #4014 of 9047
10/11/12 at 4:29pm
i download the file here: http:// www. demo-world. eu/trailers/high-definition-trailers. php
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post #4015 of 9047
10/11/12 at 5:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoenixLev View Post

UPDATE: I ended up returning this TV. While the picture was awesome, the pulsating flickering whites issue literally gave me headaches. I wish there was a PLASMA that didn't exhibit this issue but I am in a small minority it seems. I ended up purchasing an LCD instead. Of course the GT50 is a difficult TV to live up to. Good luck to all!

I saw it at first and I almost decided to pack it up. I followed some web advice and just tried to adjust to it; I did. If I actively look for it I can still see it but at this point its 100% gone and the only time I even think about it is after I read posts like yours (thanks tongue.gif). Most people can't see it at all, some people (like me) can see it but have the ability to ignore it, other people (you) just can't tune it out.

Have you looked at the VT series; I think it has a faster refresh rate ???
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post #4016 of 9047
10/11/12 at 6:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by abba1 View Post

After reading all the glowing reports of this year's Pansonic plasma series, I am seriously thinking of purchasing the 60GT50. I have a few questions to share...
1. I just bought a LG5600 a year ago. While the picture in general and the black levels are good for an edge-lit TV, the bleed of this TV is driving me nuts. Do you think there will be a difference in PQ between these two sets?
2. Considering number 1 above, any ideas how to ''sell'' this to my wife? (A chronic 'battle' for many of us!)
3. In terms of break-in I was thinking of running a full screen TV series (blu-ray) at lower contrast / brightness settings. Is this OK?
Thanks in advance for any comments / suggestions.

1. I can't comment on the 5600 but I tried out an LM7600 for about a month before I got the GT50. The PQ on the 7600 was OK during the day but was atrocious at night due to the poor black level and flashlights and bad off-axis viewing and poor sound and on and on ...

During the day, the LCD will win simply because of the higher brightness. In the evening and night the contrast level on the GT50 (because of the much better black level) produces a PQ dramatically better than the LM7600.

2. Ain't gonna happen biggrin.gif

3. Fine, I just ran the THX Cinema mode until I switched to the C-Net settings. I don't think anything else is needed.
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post #4017 of 9047
10/11/12 at 7:00pm
Panasonic GT50 /BDT220/ THX Cinema Mode/ Avengers Blu ray
Lumix FH8 iso 100 & 200

















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post #4018 of 9047
10/11/12 at 7:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by alljunkie View Post

I don't care about much the audio formats and video formats yet as I'm still building my system and surround system has not been added yet. I'm just worried about the quality of ports as HDD is detected at times and not at others, also its only detected in 1st usb port not in rest 2 ports.
I would have tried CNET settings but I can't as I'm from India and Asian tvs and American tvs come with different set of settings. I think American tvs have more options than Asian ones. As no one here even know what calibration is. As tv is in very bright room, THX bright room settings is pretty much best option for me seeing I can't get my tv calibrated.
I've attached picture I took while running scroll bars, that is IR I got after watching a Chanel with white logo for just 30 mins. It seems pretty bad to me, I've to run scroll bar for like 4-5 hours to get them dim they don't even go away completely. Please can you check in your tv if you are getting anything like that and suggest if this is normal or not.
I think you are lucky or I've ended up with bad TV which is more prone to IR, Colored logos are not leaving IR just White logos are,anything white on tv leave IR even texts do, if its left there for 15-20 mins. Though IR is only visible while running scroll bars but I'm worried if I won't run scroll bar IR might turn into Burn-in in long run. would really appreciate if you would check your tv and suggest if you are getting something like this or not.
Thanks

Well, you will begin to care about the audio and video formats when you try to play a movie and the TV just says "incompatible format" for some of the most widely used formats available. I can't tell you why 2 of the 3 USB connectors do not work, they should all work.

Regardless of what settings are shipped on your TV, you should have at least one mode that will allow you to change the settings. Specifically which settings are you not able to access ? Panasonic is a Japanese company. I wouldn't be surprised if there are regional differences to work with ATSC, NTSC, PAL, 60 Hz power, 50 Hz power, etc. but not having basic parameters for set-up is odd.

I put a 50% grey screen on the TV and it is completely uniform and has no indication of any IR. My set certainly has no horizontal zebra stripes and visible words like your photo shows. From what I have read about IR, white elements are the primary offenders, color elements don't create IR. So, what you are seeing with white letters giving IR is consistent with other reports from people who see IR.
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post #4019 of 9047
10/11/12 at 7:34pm
Thread Starter 
All those screen shots look like standard definition, especially when viewed on our LCD PC monitors. They're not doing the TV's actual picture quality any justice at all.
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post #4020 of 9047
10/11/12 at 7:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

All those screen shots look like standard definition, especially when viewed on our LCD PC monitors. They're not doing the TV's actual picture quality any justice at all.

It's true but i prefer to post some pics instead to make critics...some people want to see pics, others no...
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]