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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 157

post #4681 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by swizzchard View Post

where are blackops day & night settings? the first post on this thread only links to one set of settings
Not sure if I can link to them, so I'll just paste them here for you;

BlackOps "Day" (bright room) settings.

(updated 12/11/2012)

I calibrated these to achieve 45fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +56
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: 0
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -2
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: 0
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.

Quote:
***Previous settings (10/2012)***

I calibrated these to achieve 45fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +59
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +2
W/B low R: +6
W/B low G: -5
W/B low B: +2
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.


BlackOps "Night" (dark/dim room) settings.

(updated 12/11/2012) Please note that the "Gamma adjustment" setting HAS been changed.

I calibrated these to achieve 35fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +84
Brightness: +55
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -1
W/B low R: +7
W/B low G: -2
W/B low B: -3
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.

Quote:
***Previous settings (10/2012)***

I calibrated these to achieve 35fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +84
Brightness: +59
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: 0
W/B low R: +8
W/B low G: -2
W/B low B: +1
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.
post #4682 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminallyOdd View Post

Not sure if I can link to them, so I'll just paste them here for you;
BlackOps "Day" (bright room) settings.
(updated 12/11/2012)
I calibrated these to achieve 45fL.
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +56
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A
Pro Settings
Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: 0
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -2
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: 0
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
Advanced picture
Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.
Quote:
***Previous settings (10/2012)***
I calibrated these to achieve 45fL.
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +59
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A
Pro Settings
Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +2
W/B low R: +6
W/B low G: -5
W/B low B: +2
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
Advanced picture
Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.
BlackOps "Night" (dark/dim room) settings.
(updated 12/11/2012) Please note that the "Gamma adjustment" setting HAS been changed.
I calibrated these to achieve 35fL.
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +84
Brightness: +55
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A
Pro Settings
Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -1
W/B low R: +7
W/B low G: -2
W/B low B: -3
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
Advanced picture
Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.
Quote:
***Previous settings (10/2012)***
I calibrated these to achieve 35fL.
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +84
Brightness: +59
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A
Pro Settings
Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: 0
W/B low R: +8
W/B low G: -2
W/B low B: +1
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
Advanced picture
Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.

thanks
post #4683 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminallyOdd View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by swizzchard View Post

where are blackops day & night settings? the first post on this thread only links to one set of settings
Not sure if I can link to them, so I'll just paste them here for you;

BlackOps "Day" (bright room) settings.

(updated 12/11/2012)

I calibrated these to achieve 45fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +56
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: 0
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -2
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: 0
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.

Quote:
***Previous settings (10/2012)***

I calibrated these to achieve 45fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +59
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +2
W/B low R: +6
W/B low G: -5
W/B low B: +2
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.


BlackOps "Night" (dark/dim room) settings.

(updated 12/11/2012) Please note that the "Gamma adjustment" setting HAS been changed.

I calibrated these to achieve 35fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +84
Brightness: +55
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -1
W/B low R: +7
W/B low G: -2
W/B low B: -3
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.

Quote:
***Previous settings (10/2012)***

I calibrated these to achieve 35fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +84
Brightness: +59
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: 0
W/B low R: +8
W/B low G: -2
W/B low B: +1
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.

Thanks! These look great!
post #4684 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminallyOdd View Post

I'm sure I have Eco mode off (or on "Standard"). I even tried putting it on to see what it would do, much like I've done with every other setting.
...and those dark stripes/bars are not in the actual game. Here are a couple of more pics without the bars. The difference in brightness when the menu pops up shows the heavy influence of ABL.


Unfortunately, Pic 1 is basically the best I can get the game to look in action. Does this look abnormally dark/washed out to anyone?


This is the same difference I got when I brought the menu up on the xbox360 splash screen, honestly I cant say if it a safety feature, or as someone else had sad something about a higher load on the power supply. But most likely its the ABL preserving the phosphors.
post #4685 of 9714
I purchased my Panny a month or so ago, and I wanted to let you know my thoughts on the set.

I love my Panny, and can't say enough good things about it. I have no buzzing at all that I can tell, but I have not put my ear up to the TV. I have also watched a great deal of content in 4:3 and with the black bars at top and have noticed no burn-in. I did not break in my set or use slides as others on the forums suggested. I simply started using it like a TV.

I have u-verse and this is only 1080i, but I have become addicted to streaming Netflix.

I don't know how the 3D looks, but I have some glasses and a 3D Bluray player coming for Christmas.

A month or so is still a short time in the life of a TV, but I love this purchase. The 'smart' features are nice as I do Pandora, Netflix, and soon VUDU with great frequency. I would recommend the purchase, and am quite happy.

I am not a video purist, just a normal viewer. My set has not been calibrated and probably won't be. I am using the THX setting and my room is dark.
post #4686 of 9714
Doesn't screen burn fade? Ie, isn't it temporary? If not, is disabling to mode the best way to prevent it?
post #4687 of 9714
I have one concern, I was on the YouTube app and was trying to show off the 3d of the tv and every video I chose had a split screen effect to it therefor I was unable to watch it in 3d. I was able to watch these videos on my Sammy with no doubling effect. Any solution? Thanks
post #4688 of 9714
I have one concern, I was on the YouTube app and was trying to show off the 3d of the tv and every video I chose had a split screen effect to it therefor I was unable to watch it in 3d. I was able to watch these videos on my Sammy with no doubling effect. Any solution? Thanks
post #4689 of 9714
I have one concern, I was on the YouTube app and was trying to show off the 3d of the tv and every video I chose had a split screen effect to it therefor I was unable to watch it in 3d. I was able to watch these videos on my Sammy with no doubling effect. Any solution? Thanks
post #4690 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneyhouston View Post

I have one concern, I was on the YouTube app and was trying to show off the 3d of the tv and every video I chose had a split screen effect to it therefor I was unable to watch it in 3d. I was able to watch these videos on my Sammy with no doubling effect. Any solution? Thanks

Didn't a message come on the screen asking if you want to switch to 3D? Go to Menu/Setup/3D Settings, Auto detect 3D should be Auto 1, 3D signal notification should be On.
post #4691 of 9714
I was on. Can you confirm that this works when you have a chance? Thanks
post #4692 of 9714
Set "Auto detect 3D" to "Auto 2" rather than "Auto 1"

Auto 1 will only trigger 3D by a 3D signal indicator. Auto 2 will trigger 3D by a 3D signal indicator and by image analysis. With Auto 2, it will realize the image is 3D even if there is no signal trigger imbedded in it.
post #4693 of 9714
As far as image retention (unsure if its screen burn), I have many HUDs from many games ghosted all around the corners of my screen. Only visible in light colored scenes or one color screens, like white background, sky , etc. Ive had this set about 2 and a half months and it is only used for heavy gaming and basically nothing else.

I have a best buy warranty so when it gets bad enough to really annoy me I can swap out. Im willing to go thru this inconvenience because the image quality is pretty amazing overall. I cant say if its permanent or not. I havent had any of them fade out yet, as far as Ive noticed. They are very faint but noticable in certain scenes. Im hoping OLED will fix this by the time I upgrade in 2-4 years.

As far as image quality is concerned: The only complaints I have compared to my old sony xbr960 CRT, 34 inch tube tv, is that there is some pixelation (not sure the term) with fast motion that occurs for like a split second but is noticable. Not a huge deal though. The motion otherwise is pretty damn good. Atleast I dont see yellow and pink flashes with fast camera movement as I did on older plasmas. I would have to really look for the yellow flashes now. I dont notice them otherwise.

Incredible black levels though and super sharp and uniform. Unlike a crt which has overscanning issues, and alignment issues which cause blur, bowing lines, etc. It almost reminds me of a giant 55 inch CRT screen at times.

My viewing distance is 4-5 feet. The foot rest of my recliner is almost right up to the tv stand. I play fully reclined. As far as the dithering issue. Yes its there. My g20 plasma had this really bad and it really killed my immersion. Too many dancing dots in any shadow areas or dark areas. Looks like static or image noise but its part of plasma tech. I was very happy with the reduction in dithering on this set however. Its MUCH reduced. That along with the awesome black levels is what sealed the deal for me. I figured I will just put up with the retention since I want the best picture available, even at the cost of some annoyance. If the burn in becomes very dark then its time to exchange. It hasnt gotten to that point yet.

There are good ways to reduce this dithering. For gaming , here is what I did. Go into the advanced settings and set the panel brightness to MID. I was running it on high since I like a punchy picture thats super colorful, as opposed to realistic. Mid really reduced the dithering. Low is WAY too dark. Mid was perfect to me. I also use custom setting for gaming. Basically I set the main settings like so

contrast 100

brightness 50

color 100

sharpness 0

The rest you can manipulate and play with. Ive had a few of these tvs while exchanging so these settings should be pretty consistant to how I like to play. The PS3 does have an issue on this tv with games, where it gives an oil painting like look with the colors. Not sharp like the 360. Apparently this is due to the ps3 having poor image processing and the panasonic tvs do not have good image processing. So that is just how it is with PS3. Though Blu rays on the ps3 look amazing. Downloaded movies on the ps3 seem to have this nasty oil painting look as well. Atleast the one movie I tried did. There are image processing units like the darbee that MAY help with this issue. I just dont know and I dont want extra lag that may come with that. COntroller input lag is never good to increase for gaming. If you havent played the ps3 on a tv that doesnt have this oil painting issue (posteriation?) then you likely would not notice. They still look pretty damn good, it just annoys me somewhat.

So if you are having this dancing pixel issue, try playing with panel brightness. Try mid and maybe some of the settiings I mentioned. I also use THX bright room for some games which looks awesome. I just set color to 100 on that setting and maybe leave the rest the same. I may have also put brightness to 50 and 100 contrast, cant remember, but it has a nice natural look that looks WAY better then my custom settings, on particular games. My custom setting looks damn good to me on most games. I always use thx cinema or thx brightroom for blu rays. The main reason I paid the extra for the GT over the ST was the THX options for certain content. The pc input didnt hurt either since I run emulated games onto my tv. Super nintendo, sega genesis, etc, through the pc.

See if setting that panel brightness helps, it solved the problem for me. There will be some dithering but I hardly notice it anymore.
post #4694 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneyhouston View Post

I have one concern, I was on the YouTube app and was trying to show off the 3d of the tv and every video I chose had a split screen effect to it therefor I was unable to watch it in 3d. I was able to watch these videos on my Sammy with no doubling effect. Any solution? Thanks

Its not your TV, its youtube. You have to go to the bottom right where it says 3D in red, on the border, to tell it what type of 3D system you are using. Then you put your TV into 3D mode.
Edited by size14d - 12/12/12 at 8:57am
post #4695 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walking Beast View Post

As far as image retention (unsure if its screen burn), I have many HUDs from many games ghosted all around the corners of my screen. Only visible in light colored scenes or one color screens, like white background, sky , etc. Ive had this set about 2 and a half months and it is only used for heavy gaming and basically nothing else.
I have a best buy warranty so when it gets bad enough to really annoy me I can swap out. Im willing to go thru this inconvenience because the image quality is pretty amazing overall. I cant say if its permanent or not. I havent had any of them fade out yet, as far as Ive noticed. They are very faint but noticable in certain scenes. Im hoping OLED will fix this by the time I upgrade in 2-4 years.
As far as image quality is concerned: The only complaints I have compared to my old sony xbr960 CRT, 34 inch tube tv, is that there is some pixelation (not sure the term) with fast motion that occurs for like a split second but is noticable. Not a huge deal though. The motion otherwise is pretty damn good. Atleast I dont see yellow and pink flashes with fast camera movement as I did on older plasmas. I would have to really look for the yellow flashes now. I dont notice them otherwise.
Incredible black levels though and super sharp and uniform. Unlike a crt which has overscanning issues, and alignment issues which cause blur, bowing lines, etc. It almost reminds me of a giant 55 inch CRT screen at times.
My viewing distance is 4-5 feet. The foot rest of my recliner is almost right up to the tv stand. I play fully reclined. As far as the dithering issue. Yes its there. My g20 plasma had this really bad and it really killed my immersion. Too many dancing dots in any shadow areas or dark areas. Looks like static or image noise but its part of plasma tech. I was very happy with the reduction in dithering on this set however. Its MUCH reduced. That along with the awesome black levels is what sealed the deal for me. I figured I will just put up with the retention since I want the best picture available, even at the cost of some annoyance. If the burn in becomes very dark then its time to exchange. It hasnt gotten to that point yet.
There are good ways to reduce this dithering. For gaming , here is what I did. Go into the advanced settings and set the panel brightness to MID. I was running it on high since I like a punchy picture thats super colorful, as opposed to realistic. Mid really reduced the dithering. Low is WAY too dark. Mid was perfect to me. I also use custom setting for gaming. Basically I set the main settings like so
contrast 100
brightness 50
color 100
sharpness 0
The rest you can manipulate and play with. Ive had a few of these tvs while exchanging so these settings should be pretty consistant to how I like to play. The PS3 does have an issue on this tv with games, where it gives an oil painting like look with the colors. Not sharp like the 360. Apparently this is due to the ps3 having poor image processing and the panasonic tvs do not have good image processing. So that is just how it is with PS3. Though Blu rays on the ps3 look amazing. Downloaded movies on the ps3 seem to have this nasty oil painting look as well. Atleast the one movie I tried did. There are image processing units like the darbee that MAY help with this issue. I just dont know and I dont want extra lag that may come with that. COntroller input lag is never good to increase for gaming. If you havent played the ps3 on a tv that doesnt have this oil painting issue (posteriation?) then you likely would not notice. They still look pretty damn good, it just annoys me somewhat.
So if you are having this dancing pixel issue, try playing with panel brightness. Try mid and maybe some of the settiings I mentioned. I also use THX bright room for some games which looks awesome. I just set color to 100 on that setting and maybe leave the rest the same. I may have also put brightness to 50 and 100 contrast, cant remember, but it has a nice natural look that looks WAY better then my custom settings, on particular games. My custom setting looks damn good to me on most games. I always use thx cinema or thx brightroom for blu rays. The main reason I paid the extra for the GT over the ST was the THX options for certain content. The pc input didnt hurt either since I run emulated games onto my tv. Super nintendo, sega genesis, etc, through the pc.
See if setting that panel brightness helps, it solved the problem for me. There will be some dithering but I hardly notice it anymore.


First off, how many hours does you TV have on it? Second, using the Day setting just posted by Black Ops, I find my TV, with hundreds of hours on it, has only minimal IR. I played Battlefield 3 last night for hours and there is just a small amount of IR on the bottom right of the screen. Running the wipe, which is under Settings, reduced it to nothing after 1 15 minute session. If I were you, on heavily laden channels with lots of bars, just use the zoom on either your cable/sat box or the one for the TV. That info loops anyway.
post #4696 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walking Beast View Post

As far as image retention (unsure if its screen burn), I have many HUDs from many games ghosted all around the corners of my screen. Only visible in light colored scenes or one color screens, like white background, sky , etc. Ive had this set about 2 and a half months and it is only used for heavy gaming and basically nothing else.

I have a best buy warranty so when it gets bad enough to really annoy me I can swap out. Im willing to go thru this inconvenience because the image quality is pretty amazing overall. I cant say if its permanent or not. I havent had any of them fade out yet, as far as Ive noticed. They are very faint but noticable in certain scenes. Im hoping OLED will fix this by the time I upgrade in 2-4 years.

As far as image quality is concerned: The only complaints I have compared to my old sony xbr960 CRT, 34 inch tube tv, is that there is some pixelation (not sure the term) with fast motion that occurs for like a split second but is noticable. Not a huge deal though. The motion otherwise is pretty damn good. Atleast I dont see yellow and pink flashes with fast camera movement as I did on older plasmas. I would have to really look for the yellow flashes now. I dont notice them otherwise.

Incredible black levels though and super sharp and uniform. Unlike a crt which has overscanning issues, and alignment issues which cause blur, bowing lines, etc. It almost reminds me of a giant 55 inch CRT screen at times.

My viewing distance is 4-5 feet. The foot rest of my recliner is almost right up to the tv stand. I play fully reclined. As far as the dithering issue. Yes its there. My g20 plasma had this really bad and it really killed my immersion. Too many dancing dots in any shadow areas or dark areas. Looks like static or image noise but its part of plasma tech. I was very happy with the reduction in dithering on this set however. Its MUCH reduced. That along with the awesome black levels is what sealed the deal for me. I figured I will just put up with the retention since I want the best picture available, even at the cost of some annoyance. If the burn in becomes very dark then its time to exchange. It hasnt gotten to that point yet.

There are good ways to reduce this dithering. For gaming , here is what I did. Go into the advanced settings and set the panel brightness to MID. I was running it on high since I like a punchy picture thats super colorful, as opposed to realistic. Mid really reduced the dithering. Low is WAY too dark. Mid was perfect to me. I also use custom setting for gaming. Basically I set the main settings like so

contrast 100

brightness 50

color 100

sharpness 0

The rest you can manipulate and play with. Ive had a few of these tvs while exchanging so these settings should be pretty consistant to how I like to play. The PS3 does have an issue on this tv with games, where it gives an oil painting like look with the colors. Not sharp like the 360. Apparently this is due to the ps3 having poor image processing and the panasonic tvs do not have good image processing. So that is just how it is with PS3. Though Blu rays on the ps3 look amazing. Downloaded movies on the ps3 seem to have this nasty oil painting look as well. Atleast the one movie I tried did. There are image processing units like the darbee that MAY help with this issue. I just dont know and I dont want extra lag that may come with that. COntroller input lag is never good to increase for gaming. If you havent played the ps3 on a tv that doesnt have this oil painting issue (posteriation?) then you likely would not notice. They still look pretty damn good, it just annoys me somewhat.

So if you are having this dancing pixel issue, try playing with panel brightness. Try mid and maybe some of the settiings I mentioned. I also use THX bright room for some games which looks awesome. I just set color to 100 on that setting and maybe leave the rest the same. I may have also put brightness to 50 and 100 contrast, cant remember, but it has a nice natural look that looks WAY better then my custom settings, on particular games. My custom setting looks damn good to me on most games. I always use thx cinema or thx brightroom for blu rays. The main reason I paid the extra for the GT over the ST was the THX options for certain content. The pc input didnt hurt either since I run emulated games onto my tv. Super nintendo, sega genesis, etc, through the pc.

See if setting that panel brightness helps, it solved the problem for me. There will be some dithering but I hardly notice it anymore.

That color setting is...unique! smile.gif
post #4697 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyStr View Post

whats everyone's thoughts on extended warranties? Pauls TV give me the best price for the TV and warranty, but Best Buy's warranty is the only one that covers burn in...

I am getting this one, http://dtvexpress.com/xpresserv/extended-warranty-terms.html. Its owned by A+ rated insurance companies, HQ in Atlanta, few BBB complaints, good reviews when it comes to comparison of overage, the price is much less and its for 5 years, you have up to 6 months to purchase it.
post #4698 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by size14d View Post

First off, how many hours does you TV have on it? Second, using the Day setting just posted by Black Ops, I find my TV, with hundreds of hours on it, has only minimal IR. I played Battlefield 3 last night for hours and there is just a small amount of IR on the bottom right of the screen. Running the wipe, which is under Settings, reduced it to nothing after 1 15 minute session. If I were you, on heavily laden channels with lots of bars, just use the zoom on either your cable/sat box or the one for the TV. That info loops anyway.



Keep in mind I do not watch tv. Despise it. So the tv is used purely for gaming basically. I do not even have any channels hooked up. Your black ops day setting is pretty similiar to what I posted. 100 contrast, 50 brightness,MID panel brightness etc. There are some minute differences but nothing that should effect retention. I did not break in the tv at all. I never did it with my G20 and from what ive read it does not help reduce retention. My G20 had minimal retention issues. The shotgun logo from gears of war mainly. It faded to mostly nothing when I played other games for a few months. I dont know if this tv will fade out the logos over time. I havent had it long enough. So far the gears shotgun has not faded out, and ive been playing other games for some time. I do not run the set as heavily as someone who runs tv all day on it though. It may be for 4 to 8 hours in a session playing games, but not every day either.

With black ops 2 I have some huds retained as well. I havent played that as much as halo 4 and gears 3, so its not as prevalent. I run the wipe again and again many times and it doesnt do anything for my retention at all. Id like to run it for a day but it shuts off every 15 mins.

The zoom I would not want to use for gaming as it makes everything more grainy and cuts off parts of the HUDS but still does not remove them. Plus I am not looking to have a worse experience with the games but play them the right way. If its not permanent then I can deal with it, if it is then Ill have to swap out at some point. Certain games are staples for me. Gears 3 for example is the only online game that I play consistantly. When the new one comes out the trend will continue for a few more years. So that shotgun logo will probably never fade in my case. Hopefully some of the other HUD icons will . Otherwise I will have a massive collection of HUD icons ghosted on my screen. I already have HUD icons from just about any game ive played at decent length. If not for an exchange program with best buy Id be less likely to tolerate this issue. Picture quality is super important to me though so Im willing to put up with some inconvenience. Atleast its not visible during most moving content.
post #4699 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

That color setting is...unique! smile.gif

For some reason I like the color set really high. Super unrealistic but maybe it reminds me of how my old sony CRT used to look. I tried to get this tv to match that old crt look as much as possible.

Just for gaming though. It looks horrible for movies. So I use the THX modes for those
post #4700 of 9714
I forgot to mention my gamma settings. I think it is set to either 2.2 or 2.4, If you play with those settings you can see what looks best without looking too washed out, and with too much dithering
post #4701 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by size14d View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneyhouston View Post

I have one concern, I was on the YouTube app and was trying to show off the 3d of the tv and every video I chose had a split screen effect to it therefor I was unable to watch it in 3d. I was able to watch these videos on my Sammy with no doubling effect. Any solution? Thanks

Its not your TV, its youtube. You have to go to the bottom right where it says 3D in red, on the border, to tell it what type of 3D system you are using. Then you put your TV into 3D mode.

No, that is not how it works on these displays. That is how 3D via YouTube works while on a computer. You can choose different formats. On the 2012 Panasonic PDP's, you simple set the 3D settings in the TV's menu to "Auto 2" and play a 3D video. It does everything else automatically.
post #4702 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

No, that is not how it works on these displays. That is how 3D via YouTube works while on a computer. You can choose different formats. On the 2012 Panasonic PDP's, you simple set the 3D settings in the TV's menu to "Auto 2" and play a 3D video. It does everything else automatically.

I will follow your advice. My setting was Auto 1, which worked when I was recording the Olympics in 3D. I was not aware that it may not work in some other situations.

Thanks
post #4703 of 9714
Well I returned the TV to Best Buy.... Went to Pauls Tv since their prices were lower and was going to get the 55WT50 LED but decided to give the GT50 one more shot figured different retailer, different lot of TV's from the MFG. The new GT50 arrived this morning and I noticed the model number is different. Its TCP55GT50-2. Anyone know the difference or what the "-2" designates?
post #4704 of 9714
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyStr View Post

....The new GT50 arrived this morning and I noticed the model number is different. Its TCP55GT50-2. Anyone know the difference or what the "-2" designates?

According to the Panasonic insider it was an internal designation change only - there is no functional difference from the units without the -2 suffix.
post #4705 of 9714
so probably a second lot/stage of production units?
post #4706 of 9714
My GT50 also has the -2 ,it was built in September..never thought anything of it
post #4707 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by feedthemachine View Post

My GT50 also has the -2 ,it was built in September..never thought anything of it

any issues with buzzing or picture quality? Thats the issue I had with the two returned sets.
post #4708 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyStr View Post

any issues with buzzing or picture quality? Thats the issue I had with the two returned sets.

No,,nothing ..I see all the recent threads/post about people getting buzzers and then return it only to get another !!I'd be upset too..Makes you wonder though,,are the people that don't get a buzzers just lucky or is it the people getting multiple buzzers just very unlucky..I mean ,what are the odds
post #4709 of 9714
Before I calibrate my 65GT50 with the Disney WOW disc, should I make sure that the Pro Setting numbers are all at zero? I just realized that when I first used the WOW disc, my Pro Setting numbers were from C-net since I used their setting.
post #4710 of 9714
Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal33 View Post

Before I calibrate my 65GT50 with the Disney WOW disc, should I make sure that the Pro Setting numbers are all at zero? I just realized that when I first used the WOW disc, my Pro Setting numbers were from C-net since I used their setting.

Those are white balance settings and effect your grayscale so they are unlikely to apply to your set anyway, really can't adjust white balance without a meter and software otherwise you have no way of knowing whether they are good or not.
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