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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 170

post #5071 of 9713
I'm convinced people who get any sort of serious image retention when the TV is new after just a few minutes have the Contast and Brightness way up to an unacceptably bright level.
post #5072 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

I'm convinced people who get any sort of serious image retention when the TV is new after just a few minutes have the Contast and Brightness way up to an unacceptably bright level.

I've been watching my Contrast and Brightness while gaming because my set it still young. That said, what do you consider "unacceptably bright" after the break-in period? The Black Ops settings seem to be pretty respected settings in the forums and even his "Night" mode has Contrast at 84 and Brightness at 55.
post #5073 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Sounds similar to some of the pink tint issues on the 2011''s ?

Oh, I didn't know they had an issue with this in 2011. I had a pink and green banding issue (which was widespread) on my 2010 Samsung C7000. One of the main reasons I switched to Panasonic (after going through 3 different Samsungs in a little over a year) is because I thought they were a bit more reliable. Maybe I'm just unlucky, but it seems that todays Plasma panels are not as stable as one would like. There is no way I switch to LCD/LED but it is just frustrating. Well looking on the bright side, at least at this rate i will get a brand new TV every year!
post #5074 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

Oh, I didn't know they had an issue with this in 2011. I had a pink and green banding issue (which was widespread) on my 2010 Samsung C7000. One of the main reasons I switched to Panasonic (after going through 3 different Samsungs in a little over a year) is because I thought they were a bit more reliable. Maybe I'm just unlucky, but it seems that todays Plasma panels are not as stable as one would like. There is no way I switch to LCD/LED but it is just frustrating. Well looking on the bright side, at least at this rate i will get a brand new TV every year!

I've seen a handful of posts indicating a tinting issue that has emerged after the set has aged for while cant remember who that poster was but perhaps they will see this and comment.
post #5075 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

You must have vision problems then or watch from very far away rolleyes.gif
No vision problems I'm aware of (wife and kid either) and I'm 12 feet away.
post #5076 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

A lot of people have done that, including me.
Some people are too literal, and assume that if they used the "anti IR slides", they no longer need to balance their viewing habits to counteract the effect of fixed images. In themselves, the slides are not protection against IR. All they do is age the phosphors. Any good 1.78:1 (16 x 9) aspect ratio movie will do the same thing, and in the case of high contrast vivid Pixar animation movies, they do a better job of removing any IR that might occur.

Thanks for the tip on high contrast Pixar animation movies; I'm definitely adding that to my arsenol. I'm actually at 175 hours now and I've been playing games today and I watched LOTR Two Towers Extended with the black bars and this IR seems to not be as scary to me like it was in the first hundred or so where it was glowing brightly after a little gaming. Today, when I got IR a little bit early in the day, it didn't last long at all but I'm still paying attention to brightness, contrast, and varying my viewing content. They say good things don't come easy and I'm glad I'm sticking with this set.
Enjoy. smile.gif
post #5077 of 9713
That was sarcasm and not directed at you jbdan :-)
post #5078 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrophoric View Post

I'd guess flat out lying, but yeah it could be one of the other two things. Add to that list, delusional and now we're talking.
I was stupid enough to ignore the few honest out there who realized this is still an issue, so just passing my own 2 cents along hoping others wont make my mistake. If you do, just have a decent return policy.
Lying, been there, not worth it. Delusional, sometimes maybe :-P. I have no IR. I watch TV and enjoy it. Stinks you had a bad experience with IR. Hope you can find a display you like, good luck.
post #5079 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

That was sarcasm and not directed at you jbdan :-)
Oops hehe understood :-)
post #5080 of 9713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I have about 1500 hours on mine and I never have to worry about IR.

LIAR !! biggrin.gif
post #5081 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

I'm convinced people who get any sort of serious image retention when the TV is new after just a few minutes have the Contast and Brightness way up to an unacceptably bright level.
After reading thousands of posts on several threads, including a couple dedicated to IR and Burn-in, I have concluded that some people have no problems with IR and have done absolutely nothing in screen prep. Rogo comes to mind. I have also read posts from long time plasma owners that are very seasoned in the break-in steps and yet these people are having minor to major IR problems. It seems that the buyer is at the mercy of the luck of the draw scenario. One self acclaimed expert ( I believe him) suggested running a pure white screen to get rid of IR. He also mentioned that it could take several hundred hours to remove stubborn IR. If I remember correctly he said that "sputtering" was the main culprit to IR.
post #5082 of 9713
So I bought a GT50 today and it is WAAAAAY better than the Samsung LED that I had her for a month... that thing sucked.

So far I really like it, picture is fantastic, set up a breeze, and it's nice and big (55").

But...... the web interface sucks. Can you hook up a keyboard?

Thanks in advance,
4
post #5083 of 9713
Thanks guys, I figured that was the problem. I get paranoid when I buy new TVs. I was def. too close. Looks fine when I sit in my normal spot. I'm having the owner of Tweakmytv calibrate it in a 10 days. I can't wait!!! This guy is sick. If you never heard of him, his name is Kevin Miller. Big movie studio's use him and he created this awesome site Tweakmytv.com I'm sure if they're is a problem, he'll notice it. I'll post an update during and after the calibration. Happy new year.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tvsonecup View Post

How close to the TV are you when you see the "noise"? I see some white "noise" on black but only from within a foot. I read that is normal for PDPs. Not an issue if you only see it when you're close to TV.
post #5084 of 9713
hey guys this is my first post....just bought the 55GT50 on saturday and have been reading alot about this D-nice setting and slides....is there any way somone can link me to them. i have searched but found nothing..

any help is appreciated
post #5085 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by fourringss6 View Post

So I bought a GT50 today and it is WAAAAAY better than the Samsung LED that I had her for a month... that thing sucked.
So far I really like it, picture is fantastic, set up a breeze, and it's nice and big (55").
But...... the web interface sucks. Can you hook up a keyboard?
Thanks in advance,
4

Yes, you can hook up a wireless USB keyboard such as the Logitech K400 but the touchpad doesn't work.
post #5086 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by imtjnotu View Post

hey guys this is my first post....just bought the 55GT50 on saturday and have been reading alot about this D-nice setting and slides....is there any way somone can link me to them. i have searched but found nothing..
any help is appreciated

They are on a forum called HDJ just google dnice 2012 gt50 settings
post #5087 of 9713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by imtjnotu View Post

hey guys this is my first post....just bought the 55GT50 on saturday and have been reading alot about this D-nice setting and slides....is there any way somone can link me to them. i have searched but found nothing....

D-Nice's settings aren't posted on AVS; they're posted on another forum that cannot be linked here.

Refer to the first post in this thread for how to find them wink.gif
post #5088 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

I've been watching my Contrast and Brightness while gaming because my set it still young. That said, what do you consider "unacceptably bright" after the break-in period? The Black Ops settings seem to be pretty respected settings in the forums and even his "Night" mode has Contrast at 84 and Brightness at 55.
Well you just answered the question to my theory. Understand the higher the contrast level the easier it is to achieve IR. So if 100 is max then 84 is definitely by any one's standards considered high. The member's settings might be respected but he's giving settings to achieve great looking pic, never once did any one say your panel will not get IR with these settings. By comparison my Contrast is at 52 and Brigtness below 50, and I never experience any sort of noticeable IR. I understand not many people can have them at this level because they need brighter. I definitely do not.
Edited by Semp1 - 1/1/13 at 8:01am
post #5089 of 9713
70 to 80 percent contrast is pretty normal after first 200 hours are you saying 52 is your permanent setting ?
post #5090 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

70 to 80 percent contrast is pretty normal after first 200 hours are you saying 52 is your permanent setting ?
No. I will raise it to about 60, once I hit 400 hours, I'm presently at 250. At that level I see all details. There is no need to go any higher for me. I don't have massive light in the room I'm using the set. And not for nothing the regular THX is at 60 and even that seems too bright to me. Some people like myself are lucky enough to have dark rooms. Or at least the understanding on how to achieve better lighting. My 65VT30 is at Contrast 52 and seems extremely bright. Also in a room with subdued lighting.
post #5091 of 9713
To each his own but defintely low light output. I guess my point would be its not necessary to keep contrast that low to avoid ir
post #5092 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

To each his own but defintely low light output. I guess my point would be its not necessary to keep contrast that low to avoid ir
You're right it's not necessary but at the levels they are at its almost impossible to get IR. If I needed to make them brighter I would with out hesitation do so, but like I said even when using the calibration disc in the environment I have the TV's at, all details are seen at the levels they're at. You got to figure THX has the contrast only at 60 for a reason, there really is not much need to go brighter especially if you're trying to achieve the darker look of the actual movie theater screen. Having Contrast at 84 no matter however which way you wanna slice it is definitely too bright for night time viewing. I have the GT in a slightly brighter room than the VT which is why it's brighter but still have no reason to ever bring the Contrast above 60 and if there was reason to, then curtains do wonders. Lol.
Edited by Semp1 - 1/1/13 at 9:44am
post #5093 of 9713
I myself like to play x-box Call Of Duty on my 60GT50 using it in custom mode with at first Black Ops settings and now D-Nice settings. Limited the time to 2 hour sessions at first with the set only having about 150 hrs on it. There was some IR from the game in the R/H lower corner that went away completely after about 1 hour of regular viewing and that was checking it with color slides. Now after over 200 hrs of use when I game there is no IR present anywhere on the screen after about 5 minutes.
post #5094 of 9713
Does any one have issues when testing your wirless speed using Vudu before renting a movie through the Smart Viera Vudu app. I keep getting "Speed testing could not be completed due to network problems." I know it's not my wireless network because when trying Vudu on Roku the speedtest works fine. I'm just wondering if anyone has tried it using wifi of course. Everything including Vudu works fine over wifi and the router which is giving an average of 35-55mb download speeds is directly under the TV on the wall it is hanging on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Edited by Semp1 - 1/1/13 at 9:48am
post #5095 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

Well you just answered the question to my theory. Understand the higher the contrast level the easier it is to achieve IR. So if 100 is max then 84 is definitely by any one's standards considered high. The member's settings might be respected but he's giving settings to achieve great looking pic, never once did any one say your panel will not get IR with these settings. By comparison my Contrast is at 52 and Brigtness below 50, and I never experience any sort of noticeable IR. I understand not many people can have them at this level because they need brighter. I definitely do not.

I definitely did not answer the question to your theory...at least not in MY case for a NEW set. During my first 100 hours, I tried to game once for 15 minutes with the Contrast at 60 and Brightness at 30 and I got IR that lasted 6 hours. Then at a 125 hours or so I gamed again (same game and you can read my previous post) for 10 minutes with contrast at 60 and brightness at 40. That time the IR lasted for only two hours. At about 175 hours, I gamed again for 40 minutes at the same contrast and brightness (60/40) and the IR didn't last nearly as long nor was it nearly as bright as the previous two sessions. All this may tell me so far, at least for my own set and experience, is that the IR does seem to be getting less aggressive with more panel usage and I'm very relieved by that observation. However, to say that low contrast and brightness will negate IR all together for a NEW set and anyone that gets it must have high constrast and brightness seems to be false information, at least in my case andI had to make note of that.

Now my question was: "What do you consider to be "unacceptably bright" AFTER the break-in period" and I mentioned black ops settings because they did seem to be a bit high in the contrast/brightness department and I want to continue to err on the side of caution becuase I do agree with you that having contrast and brightness too high probably doesn't help the IR situation if you like to game alot and will have these static images up for long periods. Some games seem to be better with not having really bright HUDs also which I never really took note of before but now I'm paying closer attention. I would however like to start taking my contrast and brightness up a notch because 60/40 seems a bit dark for my gaming.

Edit: I just read a later post by you and it looks like you are still at 52 and will raise it to 60 after you hit 400 hours. That seems to be a wee bit more cautious than I'll probably be but I appreciate the reference point of someone that has experienced NO IR in any event.
post #5096 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by D.T.MIKE View Post

I myself like to play x-box Call Of Duty on my 60GT50 using it in custom mode with at first Black Ops settings and now D-Nice settings. Limited the time to 2 hour sessions at first with the set only having about 150 hrs on it. There was some IR from the game in the R/H lower corner that went away completely after about 1 hour of regular viewing and that was checking it with color slides. Now after over 200 hrs of use when I game there is no IR present anywhere on the screen after about 5 minutes.

This statement seems to be on par with what I'm experiencing and glad to hear yet again that with more usage the IR is less aggressive and basically a non-issue. Thanks for sharing! I saw someone on the last page say that 1500 hours he NEVER worries about that stuff. Very encouraging!!
post #5097 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

70 to 80 percent contrast is pretty normal after first 200 hours are you saying 52 is your permanent setting ?
No. I will raise it to about 60, once I hit 400 hours, I'm presently at 250. At that level I see all details. There is no need to go any higher for me. I don't have massive light in the room I'm using the set. And not for nothing the regular THX is at 60 and even that seems too bright to me. Some people like myself are lucky enough to have dark rooms. Or at least the understanding on how to achieve better lighting. My 65VT30 is at Contrast 52 and seems extremely bright. Also in a room with subdued lighting.

You can't really judge Contrast from one picture mode to another based on the setting number...especially the THX modes.
post #5098 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

You can't really judge Contrast from one picture mode to another based on the setting number...especially the THX modes.
I am aware especially considering the Pro mode is locked and I can only imagine what they tweaked in them. But contrast is still too high at 84 no matter what the case. Listen I game also, but I have not yet on my GT and will not until I hit 400 hours but I've never fealt it was too dark on my VT (although the VT seems naturally brighter at lower levels) and I never, ever got IR from gaming and I play for hours some times in a sitting.
post #5099 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

Well you just answered the question to my theory. Understand the higher the contrast level the easier it is to achieve IR. So if 100 is max then 84 is definitely by any one's standards considered high. The member's settings might be respected but he's giving settings to achieve great looking pic, never once did any one say your panel will not get IR with these settings. By comparison my Contrast is at 52 and Brigtness below 50, and I never experience any sort of noticeable IR. I understand not many people can have them at this level because they need brighter. I definitely do not.

I definitely did not answer the question to your theory...at least not in MY case for a NEW set. During my first 100 hours, I tried to game once for 15 minutes with the Contrast at 60 and Brightness at 30 and I got IR that lasted 6 hours. Then at a 125 hours or so I gamed again (same game and you can read my previous post) for 10 minutes with contrast at 60 and brightness at 40. That time the IR lasted for only two hours. At about 175 hours, I gamed again for 40 minutes at the same contrast and brightness (60/40) and the IR didn't last nearly as long nor was it nearly as bright as the previous two sessions. All this may tell me so far, at least for my own set and experience, is that the IR does seem to be getting less aggressive with more panel usage and I'm very relieved by that observation. However, to say that low contrast and brightness will negate IR all together for a NEW set and anyone that gets it must have high constrast and brightness seems to be false information, at least in my case andI had to make note of that.

Now my question was: "What do you consider to be "unacceptably bright" AFTER the break-in period" and I mentioned black ops settings because they did seem to be a bit high in the contrast/brightness department and I want to continue to err on the side of caution becuase I do agree with you that having contrast and brightness too high probably doesn't help the IR situation if you like to game alot and will have these static images up for long periods. Some games seem to be better with not having really bright HUDs also which I never really took note of before but now I'm paying closer attention. I would however like to start taking my contrast and brightness up a notch because 60/40 seems a bit dark for my gaming.

Edit: I just read a later post by you and it looks like you are still at 52 and will raise it to 60 after you hit 400 hours. That seems to be a wee bit more cautious than I'll probably be but I appreciate the reference point of someone that has experienced NO IR in any event.

No need to drop the Brightness setting in relation to IR concerns as that setting is better described as a black level setting. Use the brightness test pattern from the AVS or GCD calibration disk. You'll likely end up with a setting between 55-60. Contrast is up to you and it is the setting that will determine your likelihood of IR. The dark/dim room recommendation with true calibration is 30-35 fL. Without a meter, you won't know exactly where you are, but in Custom mode you'll get in that range with a Contrast setting between 75-85...probably safe to split the difference and 80 will get you close. I believe D-Nice had a target between 33-35 fL and he suggested a Contrast setting of 78. I am upgrading my meter soon and run some tests.
post #5100 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

You can't really judge Contrast from one picture mode to another based on the setting number...especially the THX modes.
I am aware especially considering the Pro mode is locked and I can only imagine what they tweaked in them. But contrast is still too high at 84 no matter what the case. Listen I game also, but I have not yet on my GT and will not until I hit 400 hours but I've never fealt it was too dark on my VT (although the VT seems naturally brighter at lower levels) and I never, ever got IR from gaming and I play for hours some times in a sitting.

Pro mode?
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