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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 173

post #5161 of 9713
Got my 55 inch gt50 in today. Set up was pretty easy and the screen awesome, using BlackOps day time settings right now.
post #5162 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Each HDMI input has its own set of picture modes. The only two inputs worth calibrating are THX Cinema and Custom. Custom is calibrated entirely from the user menu, while THX Cinema requires that you enter the service menu. You also can't change the gamma setting in THX Cinema if you prefer 2.4 over 2.2.
If using one HDMI input on your GT50:
Calibrate THX (via service menu) for darker room viewing conditions and calibrate Custom for brighter room viewing conditions. To switch from day to night, you simple change the picture mode accordingly.
If using an HDMI splitter: Calibrate either THX Cinema or Custom on one HDMI input for dark room viewing conditions. Calibrate either THX Cinema or Custom on another HDMI input for brighter room viewing conditions. To switch from day to night, you simply change the input.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I can see the benefit of each method. Do folks who do calibration as an occupation typically do two setups, one for day viewing and one for night?
post #5163 of 9713
HD-master,

Based on my recent gt50 calibration with chad b, some of your statements I believe are incorrect.

Chad ended up doing thx brightroom and custom on mine. His rationale was that custom allowed him the flexibility to make it like thx cinema as a night mode but the colors would pop more. My subjective impressions confirm that, as well as much better depth and a sense of 3d to the image which the measurements show custom being able to have a much more linear gamma than thx cinema. Basically custom can be calibrated as a much better form of thx cinema, to my understanding, and when I asked chad if it was worth it to tweak thx cinema he said no. Calibrated custom looks perfect to me and the light output is much more than what was possible in thx cinema making it an excellent all purpose mode. He did my bright room just to have in extreme ambient day light conditions but currently I'm finding no need as the light output in custom is excellent. Measurements show thx brightroom to be really good, with the only issue being a gamma around 1.8 which seems to serve its purpose well. The gamma in custom came out excellent and was more linear especially in the upper end where thx cinema has a big peak.

The service menu adjustments are based off of color temp (warm, cool, neutral), and carry over into all picture modes. Once chad finished with the service menu custom required very minimal tweaking in the 2 point white balance adjustment, only needing +-1 here or there.
post #5164 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recstar24 View Post


Based on my recent gt50 calibration with chad b, some of your statements I believe are incorrect.
Have you posted your evaluation or impressions of the calibration that Chad B did for you? If you have let me know were it is and I'll include it in the "reports" lists that are linked in the signature area of my post.
post #5165 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recstar24 View Post

HD-master,

Based on my recent gt50 calibration with chad b, some of your statements I believe are incorrect.

Chad ended up doing thx brightroom and custom on mine. His rationale was that custom allowed him the flexibility to make it like thx cinema as a night mode but the colors would pop more. My subjective impressions confirm that, as well as much better depth and a sense of 3d to the image which the measurements show custom being able to have a much more linear gamma than thx cinema. Basically custom can be calibrated as a much better form of thx cinema, to my understanding, and when I asked chad if it was worth it to tweak thx cinema he said no. Calibrated custom looks perfect to me and the light output is much more than what was possible in thx cinema making it an excellent all purpose mode. He did my bright room just to have in extreme ambient day light conditions but currently I'm finding no need as the light output in custom is excellent. Measurements show thx brightroom to be really good, with the only issue being a gamma around 1.8 which seems to serve its purpose well. The gamma in custom came out excellent and was more linear especially in the upper end where thx cinema has a big peak.

The service menu adjustments are based off of color temp (warm, cool, neutral), and carry over into all picture modes. Once chad finished with the service menu custom required very minimal tweaking in the 2 point white balance adjustment, only needing +-1 here or there.

Both THX Cinema and Custom are excellent candidates for calibration. With an average gamma of 1.8, THX Brightroom is not unless you need an extremely bright picture while compromising on other aspects and appearing washed out. You give something up to hit that high peak. I can hit 35 fL in Custom on one input, while hitting 45 fL in Custom on another input. That's plenty bright for me in the middle of the afternoon with the blinds open and the sun reflecting off the snow outside the windows on both sides of my room...all while maintaining a proper gamma target. If I had to use only one input and wanted two options, I would have to make compromises. The shortcomings of using a calibrated THX Cinema for night viewing are minor, in my opinion, when compared to those of THX Brightroom with its low gamma for daytime viewing. Chad chose THX Cinema over Custom when he wrote his review.

In the end, I'd choose Custom for both scenarios if possible. Not to mention that there is disagreement over whether 2.2 or 2.4 should be the target. Custom allows you to choose for yourself. Using an HDMI splitter to calibrate Custom for more than one input is the closest we can get with the GT50's to the VT50's option of ISF Day/Night.
post #5166 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Each HDMI input has its own set of picture modes. The only two inputs worth calibrating are THX Cinema and Custom. Custom is calibrated entirely from the user menu, while THX Cinema requires that you enter the service menu. You also can't change the gamma setting in THX Cinema if you prefer 2.4 over 2.2.
If using one HDMI input on your GT50:
Calibrate THX (via service menu) for darker room viewing conditions and calibrate Custom for brighter room viewing conditions. To switch from day to night, you simple change the picture mode accordingly.
If using an HDMI splitter: Calibrate either THX Cinema or Custom on one HDMI input for dark room viewing conditions. Calibrate either THX Cinema or Custom on another HDMI input for brighter room viewing conditions. To switch from day to night, you simply change the input.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I can see the benefit of each method. Do folks who do calibration as an occupation typically do two setups, one for day viewing and one for night?

It depends on what the client wants or needs. Some may only care about one scenario, day or night. From what I have read and the pros I have spoken to, THX Cinema and Custom are used most often.
post #5167 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Have you posted your evaluation or impressions of the calibration that Chad B did for you? If you have let me know were it is and I'll include it in the "reports" lists that are linked in the signature area of my post.

Previous page of this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1403635/official-panasonic-gt50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/5130#post_22775406
post #5168 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Both THX Cinema and Custom are excellent candidates for calibration. With an average gamma of 1.8, THX Brightroom is not unless you need an extremely bright picture while compromising on other aspects and appearing washed out. You give something up to hit that high peak. I can hit 35 fL in Custom on one input, while hitting 45 fL in Custom on another input. That's plenty bright for me in the middle of the afternoon with the blinds open and the sun reflecting off the snow outside the windows on both sides of my room...all while maintaining a proper gamma target. If I had to use only one input and wanted two options, I would have to make compromises. The shortcomings of using a calibrated THX Cinema for night viewing are minor, in my opinion, when compared to those of THX Brightroom with its low gamma for daytime viewing. Chad chose THX Cinema over Custom when he wrote his review.
In the end, I'd choose Custom for both scenarios if possible. Not to mention that there is disagreement over whether 2.2 or 2.4 should be the target. Custom allows you to choose for yourself. Using an HDMI splitter to calibrate Custom for more than one input is the closest we can get with the GT50's to the VT50's option of ISF Day/Night.

Valid points for sure. I think it's even more a testament to chad b that he really took my environment and viewing preferences into account. I did ask chad what he uses and he said 98% of the time it's custom, with the 2% being brightroom in an extreme lighting scenario. So far I have viewed custom 100% and its been great in both night time viewing, day time viewing, viewing with the room lights on, etc. My brightroom mode was really more for my wife who likes that kind of pic but even she was super impressed with custom. I would say my calibration was meant to be custom for me and brightroom for the wife but custom turned out so well that she is starting to convert. I do agree brightroom looks washed out and I don't bother with it but its nice to have IMO with custom being the go to reference.
post #5169 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recstar24 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Both THX Cinema and Custom are excellent candidates for calibration. With an average gamma of 1.8, THX Brightroom is not unless you need an extremely bright picture while compromising on other aspects and appearing washed out. You give something up to hit that high peak. I can hit 35 fL in Custom on one input, while hitting 45 fL in Custom on another input. That's plenty bright for me in the middle of the afternoon with the blinds open and the sun reflecting off the snow outside the windows on both sides of my room...all while maintaining a proper gamma target. If I had to use only one input and wanted two options, I would have to make compromises. The shortcomings of using a calibrated THX Cinema for night viewing are minor, in my opinion, when compared to those of THX Brightroom with its low gamma for daytime viewing. Chad chose THX Cinema over Custom when he wrote his review.
In the end, I'd choose Custom for both scenarios if possible. Not to mention that there is disagreement over whether 2.2 or 2.4 should be the target. Custom allows you to choose for yourself. Using an HDMI splitter to calibrate Custom for more than one input is the closest we can get with the GT50's to the VT50's option of ISF Day/Night.

Valid points for sure. I think it's even more a testament to chad b that he really took my environment and viewing preferences into account. I did ask chad what he uses and he said 98% of the time it's custom, with the 2% being brightroom in an extreme lighting scenario. So far I have viewed custom 100% and its been great in both night time viewing, day time viewing, viewing with the room lights on, etc. My brightroom mode was really more for my wife who likes that kind of pic but even she was super impressed with custom. I would say my calibration was meant to be custom for me and brightroom for the wife but custom turned out so well that she is starting to convert. I do agree brightroom looks washed out and I don't bother with it but its nice to have IMO with custom being the go to reference.

Yep, I agree on all points. Chad is amazing in more ways than one. I've spoken to him a few times.
post #5170 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recstar24 View Post

I had an excellent calibration experience with chad b tonight on my gt50. I was using thx cinema and really liked the picture out of the box, I tweaked some of the user settings using spears and munsil. Chad ended up creating a custom mode and through his grayscale service menu and user menu adjustments, looked way better than OOB thx cinema. ...Suffice to say, it is a no brainer IMO for the gt50 since its calibration controls are so limited and that the performance is pretty solid OOB in many respects. I would highly recommend any gt50 owner to consider a professional calibration and I can definitely vouch for chad's knowledge of the gt50.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adb View Post

Interesting about your wifes comment. Mine has never made comments about the picture quality of our sets and after Chad finished his calibrations on the GT 50 she walked into the room and said "Wow- look at that picture". After almost three weeks since Chad's calibration we still make daily comments about how fine the picture is.

So where can I find a guy like Chad local to me? Should do a search for "ISF Calibrators"? I take it this fellow Chad did not simply adjust the user settings via main menu but accessed some service menu or protocol. Someone mentioned "Best Buy"... I remember a few years ago my sister's bf hired people (Geek Squad?) specifically from BB to "professionally calibrate" their Sharp LCD. This guy apparently stuck a device to the surface of the screen and tweaked the TV through some external device or access gadget. Is that what you guys are talking about?

Should we simply search for qualified ISF Calibration and that's it?
Thanks
post #5171 of 9713
There is a nice display calibration sub forum here that has a sticky thread that has isf calibrators, their areas, as well as their contact info. There is also a thread that is basically a newbie calibration thread which is very useful. I would read those first.

TVs differ in the calibration options offered both service and user menu. The panny st50 and gt50 are quite limited - what was amazing was how much improvement a calibration showed even with those limited calibration options. The service menu adjustments to the grayscale provides a somewhat "global" adjustment to the whole set, and then the user menu settings are further tweaked. This recent experience also showed me that even tweaking the user settings can be tricky and benefits from a professional. I had been using spears and munsil to tweak my user settings but what chad was able to accomplish with his patterns and eye were way better than I could have achieved.
post #5172 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckin96 View Post

So where can I find a guy like Chad local to me? Should do a search for "ISF Calibrators"? I take it this fellow Chad did not simply adjust the user settings via main menu but accessed some service menu or protocol. Someone mentioned "Best Buy"... I remember a few years ago my sister's bf hired people (Geek Squad?) specifically from BB to "professionally calibrate" their Sharp LCD. This guy apparently stuck a device to the surface of the screen and tweaked the TV through some external device or access gadget. Is that what you guys are talking about?
Should we simply search for qualified ISF Calibration and that's it?
Thanks

That is partially what Chad uses but he has some much more sophisticated equipment which is obviously needed to get the kind of results he presents plus his knowledge and training. In my opinion the BestBuy calibrators that I have seen do not begin to have the equipment or the knowledge to get a really good calibration. This seems to me be be a case of "you get what you pay for" senario. Just my experience.
post #5173 of 9713
I have a VT30 but recently purchased the 60GT50. I get it next week.. do you guys think I'll see a difference? Should I have gotten the VT50?? Man I hate buyers remorse... I'm so sick of tVs!!!
post #5174 of 9713
Wife and I finally got around to watching a 3D film in its entirety (I have been watching here and there for testing) and one thing I noticed is that sometimes when say a person is standing or in the scene I am talking about, is crouched I noticed a whiteish/blueish almost like a light out line of his body. Is this known as the "ghosting" issue there are with certain 3D displays? I am new to 3D so I have no idea.....Is there a way of fixing or making this less noticeable? The film we were watching was Sanctum 3D and it was in the THX 3D cinema mode.

Thanks guy!
post #5175 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by charles0424 View Post

Wife and I finally got around to watching a 3D film in its entirety (I have been watching here and there for testing) and one thing I noticed is that sometimes when say a person is standing or in the scene I am talking about, is crouched I noticed a whiteish/blueish almost like a light out line of his body. Is this known as the "ghosting" issue there are with certain 3D displays? I am new to 3D so I have no idea.....Is there a way of fixing or making this less noticeable? The film we were watching was Sanctum 3D and it was in the THX 3D cinema mode.

Thanks guy!

If you see a faint doubling of an object or person, like the outline you describe, that is probably ghosting. That is a pretty bad movie as far as 3D goes however. What was the source? Blu-ray, VUDU, On Demand/PPV, etc.? Do you have any other 3D movies you can try out?
Edited by HD-Master - 1/4/13 at 9:49am
post #5176 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by TannerMc View Post

I just bought the new 65GT50. Can you suggest the best settings for my display.

Older panasonics had to be calibrated.

The current ones are pretty good out of the box.

Set it to THX or THX: Cinema. Set it to HDSize 2 for a complete picture.
Done.
post #5177 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohanman View Post

I have a VT30 but recently purchased the 60GT50. I get it next week.. do you guys think I'll see a difference? Should I have gotten the VT50?? Man I hate buyers remorse... I'm so sick of tVs!!!

So you bought it without looking at it at the video store first? Yes you will see a difference and no, not much difference between the GT/VT. Buying TV's is suppose to be fun and exciting, why buy a new one than?rolleyes.gif
post #5178 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

If you see a faint doubling of an object or person, like the outline you describe, that is probably ghosting. That is a pretty bad movie as far as 3D goes however. What was the source? Blu-ray, VUDU, On Demand/PPV, etc.? Do you have any other 3D movies you can try out?

I was watching the 3D film on my Onkyo blu-ray player. I have other films to test out. I remember a while ago hearing about something that we could do to help make the ghosting less "noticeable" with these sets if that makes any sense......?

Thanks
post #5179 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by charles0424 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

If you see a faint doubling of an object or person, like the outline you describe, that is probably ghosting. That is a pretty bad movie as far as 3D goes however. What was the source? Blu-ray, VUDU, On Demand/PPV, etc.? Do you have any other 3D movies you can try out?

I was watching the 3D film on my Onkyo blu-ray player. I have other films to test out. I remember a while ago hearing about something that we could do to help make the ghosting less "noticeable" with these sets if that makes any sense......?

Thanks

What other 3D films do you have that you can try out?

In the GT50 "Picture" settings, go the "Advanced picture" section (while in 3D) and set "24p Direct in" to 48Hz.

avunemy2.jpg
post #5180 of 9713
I think you're talking about 48hz. Try turning on 24p in the BD player and then 48hz on the tv while playing a blu-ray.
post #5181 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recstar24 View Post

I had an excellent calibration experience with chad b tonight on my gt50.
Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the flat panel (post#2) lists that are linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post.
post #5182 of 9713
**** this TV. It's absolutely worthless. I can't watch ANYTHING without it leaving an after image. Am I supposed to leave my TV on static every night before I sleep to try and erase the IR? And I am convinced most of it is permanent burn in. I've had enough of this ****.
post #5183 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by GiantSquid View Post

**** this TV. It's absolutely worthless. I can't watch ANYTHING without it leaving an after image. Am I supposed to leave my TV on static every night before I sleep to try and erase the IR? And I am convinced most of it is permanent burn in. I've had enough of this ****.

What are your settings and how long are you watching something with a static image displayed? I'm not sure why you thought running static overnight would help the situation. An IR scroll bar or 1.78:1 Pixar film would be more effective.
post #5184 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by GiantSquid View Post

**** this TV. It's absolutely worthless. I can't watch ANYTHING without it leaving an after image. Am I supposed to leave my TV on static every night before I sleep to try and erase the IR? And I am convinced most of it is permanent burn in. I've had enough of this ****.

what is your contrast?
post #5185 of 9713
This is my history of IR/Burn-in with my 55GT50

1) DirecTV logo - sometime within the first 7 hours of TV's life - THX night setting - casually going through DTV guide to find something to watch. Logo couldn't have been on screen for more than 5 minutes. Image is still there when I try to look for it on an all white screen.

2) CNN LIVE logo + Breaking news banner - sometime between 50-70 hours of TV's life - THX night setting. This was caused when a family member was watching CNN's uninterrupted coverage of the school shooting. If I had to guess, the logo was left on screen for two hours. This is when I ran static for 24 hours. It was effective in blurring the logo but it was still there.

At this point, I turned the contrast to 35, only used ideal THX setting when viewing a fullscreen, logo free movie.

3) CNN LIVE logo + banner message (again) - after 250 hours - contrast @ 35. This was cause by simply watching CNN for about two hours. I ran the static but this time it's not going away. Very clear CNN logo and the bottom right corner. It's there when a solid color is on screen.

At this point I said screw it, and set the TV back to THX. Setting the contrast to 35 didn't help and it made everything look dull.

4) Prime Ticket Clippers logo + game score - close to 300 hours of TV's life - THX night setting. Just sitting back watching a reply of a Clippers game. This one is as bad as it gets.

I just got off the phone with Amazon and they are giving me a refund.
post #5186 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by GiantSquid View Post

... refund.

That's a real shame. I've done much worse to my set and have never had even the slightest hint of IR.
post #5187 of 9713
REPLACING FIVE-YEAR OLD KURO FOR 60GT50 AND NEED HELP

Greeting friends,

Retiring a five-year old Pioneer Kuro 5080 to the upstairs BR in favor of the 60GT50. Tweaked the Kuro with D-Nices break-in slides five years ago and used his settings and all went perfectly. It was a 720p set that blew people away, but it ‘s starting to show insufficiencies. So, a couple of things about the GT50:

1. Thanks to Randy Walters for tireless effort in getting people directed where they need to go

2. While I know D-nice’s settings will be different for every TV, will the break-in slides be different also, or are they universal?

3. If one uses D-Nice’s slides, does one have to use his settings also or can one use DN’s slides and CNET’s or any settings he cares to.?

4. Is there a consensus about the 72-100 hour break-in/?Required or unnecessary?

5. I see that since I last went through this, there are some calibration discs available at a reasonable price to the public; the Disney WOW, one called an A-??? that you can download somewhere here, and others. Accepting that nothing will top a pro calibration in your room, is there a feeling these discs do something more or better than a D-Nice break-in? If so, which ones and why.

I’m five years out of the process and need some refreshing. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. smile.gif

PS: Panels are luck of the draw. Is there a manufacture date and firmware edition I should be looking for.? Specific Issues?
post #5188 of 9713
I just watched my first 3D movie on this set tonight (Avengers). I used the 48Hz setting as suggested by CNET(and HD-Master a few posts back) I must say the experience was just awesopme! It was every bit as good as the the theater except smaller. WOW! My love for this set really grew tonight. Is there anything else I can do to enhance the 3D viewing on this set? Are there any personal 3D calibration settings anyone would like to share or is it just best to let it default to that THX 3D Cinema setting?
post #5189 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohanman View Post

I have a VT30 but recently purchased the 60GT50. I get it next week.. do you guys think I'll see a difference? Should I have gotten the VT50?? Man I hate buyers remorse... I'm so sick of tVs!!!


I have a somewhat similar dilemma, but I have not pulled the trigger yet... I have a GT30 which I am keeping, but I need a 2nd unit for another location. I have seen a 60GT50 and a 55VT50 selling at the same price and I am having some difficulty deciding between them. I want the 60GT50 for the screen size, because I have seen the benefits of "size" since 3d technology came along... On the other hand, I have heard great things about the VT50, and its pq and tweakability, and I am wondering whether it would not be better to sacrifice the 5inches of real estate and settle for the 55VT50. If money were not an issue, I'd simply spring for the 65VT50, and be done with it, but, of course, my budget says no. This should not be taken as a knock on the GT50 at all, as I have heard great things about it too. I know I'm looking for a small "edge" in advantages here. The two Bestbuys nearest to me do not have either unit, so if I want a personal inspection or audition, I'd have to take a drive to a Magnolia located more than 60 miles away from me, which seems like a hassle at the moment, which is why I am here asking. So what do you guys think? If you could pick up either a 60GT50 or a 55VT50 at the same price, what would you do? I know some of this might be subjective, but I still believe one of these options has an edge over the other, and I am trying to find that edge... Help if you can. Thanks.
Edited by sahmen - 1/5/13 at 6:01am
post #5190 of 9713
I have a question: When you guys turn on your GT50s and the Viera start up logo appears for a few seconds, do you notice IR? Because I do. It quickly goes away but I'm just wondering if I got a lemon. If a 3 second logo causes IR, maybe my set is more susceptible to IR than the typical set.
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