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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 175

post #5221 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikew630 View Post

Hello,
I am hoping someone can help me out. I recently replaced my 3 year old Panasonic TC-P50GT10 with a 60" Panasonic TC-P60GT50. The GT10 is a great TV and I had no issues with it at all. I just hooked up the new P60GT50 to watch some playoff football. I was stunned to see such noticeable motion blur during plays. I literally couldn't make out the numbers on players backs while they were running. It is almost as if they are jumping across the screen.
I have read nothing but great reviews about this TV and am wondering if I may have a defective unit? I switched over to the NHL network and it was borderline unwatchable.
Are there any settings that anyone can recommend to help this issue? I have tweaked the custom picture settings that I have found online, but they do not help.
I have a hard time believing this TV would be inferior to my 3 1/2 year old plasma.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike

Try watching on THX Cinema or THX Cinema Bright Room. You may google, "Panasonic GT50 Black Ops settings Day Night" for settings. Those are more detailed settings. What is your input? I am watching OTA which is less compressed than cable or satellite. I am watching it through my Dish receiver. Fox broadcasts in 720p so I changed my receiver to 720p output to get rid of artifacts from coverting that signal to 1080i. I do the same for ESPN. The TV providers, Dish and Direct, provide HD Lite, which is 1440x1080 vs 1920x1080 so you get artifacts for those lines having to be filled with duplicates.
post #5222 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by size14d View Post

The TV providers, Dish and Direct, provide HD Lite, which is 1440x1080 vs 1920x1080 so you get artifacts for those lines having to be filled with duplicates.

Only Dish Network used HD-Lite. DirecTV hasn't done that for a long time.
post #5223 of 9713
Thank you all for the replies.

I have tried watching in THX Cinema, Cinema and custom mode. They all appear to have the same issue.

The custom mode has the following settings (which don't seem to be all that great. Any recommendations would be great.)

Contrast: +100
Brightness: +72
Color: +51
Tine: 0
Sharpness: +25
Color Temp: Warm 2
Color MGMT: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Color Space: Wide
W/B high R: +4
W/B high G: +5
W/B high B: +6
W/B low R: -6
W/B low G: -9
W/B low B: -6
Black Extension: Default
Gamma Adj: 2.6
Rest of the settings default

My cable provider is DirecTV.

I turned "Motion Smoother" from low to off and am still experiencing the issues. Thank you all for the quick replies and suggestions.
post #5224 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikew630 View Post

Thank you all for the replies.

I have tried watching in THX Cinema, Cinema and custom mode. They all appear to have the same issue.

The custom mode has the following settings (which don't seem to be all that great. Any recommendations would be great.)

Contrast: +100
Brightness: +72
Color: +51
Tine: 0
Sharpness: +25
Color Temp: Warm 2
Color MGMT: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Color Space: Wide
W/B high R: +4
W/B high G: +5
W/B high B: +6
W/B low R: -6
W/B low G: -9
W/B low B: -6
Black Extension: Default
Gamma Adj: 2.6
Rest of the settings default

My cable provider is DirecTV.

I turned "Motion Smoother" from low to off and am still experiencing the issues. Thank you all for the quick replies and suggestions.

Certainly some problems there. I would suggest the following as a starting point...

For a dimmer room (perhaps at night)-

Contrast: 78
Brightness: 56
Color: 47
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
CATS: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings...

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: -1
W/B high G: -2
W/B high B: +1
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: +2

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced Picture...

Mosquito Noise: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light


Or these for a brighter picture-


Contrast: 88
Brightness: 56
Color: 47
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
CATS: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings...

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: -1
W/B high G: -2
W/B high B: +1
W/B low R: +9
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: +1

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced Picture...

Mosquito Noise: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light
Edited by HD-Master - 1/6/13 at 3:49pm
post #5225 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by size14d View Post

The chance for IR is much greater during the first 150 to 200 hours. If you want to see what it looks like, watch CNN for 10 minutes and then go to Setup, Anti Image Retention and run the Wipe and you'll see ghosting of the CNN logo. After break in, you won't be able to see it as much. Watching moving images also gets rid of IR. Right now, watching the Seahawks Redskins game on Fox, most likely there will be some IR from that Fox logo in the upper right. When I first got my TV and was watching football, like on RedZone, I would zoom in the picture.As I got some hours on the TV, I would periodically zoom in and go back to the full picture. I don't do that anymore. And I just checked, no IR.

That's bizarre... I never had IR on my Kuro (oK, granted a great TV. But I found a great deal on a Panny TC-p50u50 that I put in my office a month ago. No IR at all. That's the lowest in the model line you can buy. (GREAT blacks by the way.)

Thanks for your input BTW. Maybe it's worth using D-Nice's slides, just to avoid logos and bars and still get the break-in?!?!

Again, thanks... now I gotta go concentrate on the 4thQ... on the Kuro!
post #5226 of 9713
Black Ops most recent bright room settings. And I would put your DirecTV receiver to 720p while watching this game.



Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +56
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: 0
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -2
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: 0
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
post #5227 of 9713
Here are Black Ops night settings.

(updated 12/11/2012) Please note that the "Gamma adjustment" setting HAS been changed.

I calibrated these to achieve 35fL.

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +84
Brightness: +55
Color: +45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: +20
Color temp.: Warm2
Color mgmt.: N/A
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: N/A

Pro Settings

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: -1
W/B low R: +7
W/B low G: -2
W/B low B: -3
Black Extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced picture

Motion smoother: Off
1080p pure direct: On (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)
Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 60Hz (only applies to and can only be adjusted with a 1080p signal)

Please note that due to panel variances and room lighting...your experiences with these settings will vary.
post #5228 of 9713
These are CNET Senior Editor David Katzmaier's settings

Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +76
Brightness: +59
Color: +45
Tint: +1
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm 2
Color mgmt: Off [grayed out]
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off

-- Pro settings submenu
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: +8
W/B high G: +2
W/B high B: +1
W/B low R: +2
W/B low G: -3
W/B low B: +2
Black extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

-- Aspect adjustments submenu
Screen format: Full
HD size: Size 2
H size: [grayed out]
Zoom adjustments: [grayed out]

-- HDMI settings: [no change from default]

--Advanced picture submenu
3D Y/C filter: Off [grayed out]
Color matrix: HD [grayed out]
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz
post #5229 of 9713
Turned on my 3 week old 55GT50 this morning and all I get is the red light flashing 6 times. I left it unplugged for a while but it still won't turn back on without flashing. Any ideas? Luckily Amazon already said they'd send out a new one and I figured its dead but any thoughts?
post #5230 of 9713
"Certainly some problems there. I would suggest the following as a starting point...

For a dimmer room (perhaps at night)-

Contrast: 78
Brightness: 56
Color: 47
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
CATS: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings...

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: -1
W/B high G: -2
W/B high B: +1
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: +2

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced Picture...

Mosquito Noise: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light


Or these for a brighter picture-


Contrast: 88
Brightness: 56
Color: 47
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
CATS: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings...

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: -1
W/B high G: -2
W/B high B: +1
W/B low R: +9
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: +1

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Advanced Picture...

Mosquito Noise: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light"




These settings are definitely helpful - the picture looks much better. Thank you for your suggestions.
post #5231 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

That's bizarre... I never had IR on my Kuro (oK, granted a great TV. But I found a great deal on a Panny TC-p50u50 that I put in my office a month ago. No IR at all. That's the lowest in the model line you can buy. (GREAT blacks by the way.)
Thanks for your input BTW. Maybe it's worth using D-Nice's slides, just to avoid logos and bars and still get the break-in?!?!
Again, thanks... now I gotta go concentrate on the 4thQ... on the Kuro!

I just watched mine...solely me, during the break in. I zoomed in when needed. No way I was going to go and watch another TV when I have this TV in the house, lol. Of course, I don't have a Kuro. Anyway, just checked and no IR on the Washington Seattle game. The last bad IR I saw was a couple weeks back on the NFL channel. Might have been NFL AM. I got my TV back in October and its used heavily, to give an idea of the hours on it.

I know some on here didn't have the luxury of being the sole user. I read about the guy whose wife listened to Pandora all the time and burned that into the screen. Learning about plasma IR the hard way.
Edited by size14d - 1/6/13 at 4:33pm
post #5232 of 9713
How tight can a GT50 be mounted to a wall and still have clearance for power and HDMI cables? I don't know which way the input jacks face. In other words, if I use this mount that lies ".55" / 1.4 cm from the wall" would room for the cables be an issue? http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/visionmount/low-profile-mount/LL11

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
post #5233 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sickman View Post

How tight can a GT50 be mounted to a wall and still have clearance for power and HDMI cables? I don't know which way the input jacks face. In other words, if I use this mount that lies ".55" / 1.4 cm from the wall" would room for the cables be an issue? http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/visionmount/low-profile-mount/LL11

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

That mount is way too overpriced. I use this one for my 65" GT50:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082807&p_id=4114&seq=1&format=2
post #5234 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sickman View Post

How tight can a GT50 be mounted to a wall and still have clearance for power and HDMI cables? I don't know which way the input jacks face. In other words, if I use this mount that lies ".55" / 1.4 cm from the wall" would room for the cables be an issue? http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/visionmount/low-profile-mount/LL11
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

That looks like the exact same mount I got for my 65" GT50. The kit comes with several different sized bolts as well as plastic spacer pieces. I had to use the biggest spacers on my setup, I think they pushed the plasma approx 1" (maybe a little bit more) away from the actual surface of the mount. You should go online and look at the diagrams for the GT50 series. All the HDMI inputs face out on the left side of the panel (when facing front of panel). The power cord is near the middle and the other inputs (VGA, ATSC/coax and composite/component) are on the left side facing down.

There's one major issue I had with this mount. Those two vertical arms that hang from the main fixed horizontal bar rest very close to where your two 16" studs are. On my wall I had installed a coax (RG6) wall plate, an AC outlet, and a dual HDMI wall plate on the left stud (2 boxes fixed to the left side of that stud, 1 box to the inside/right side of that stud). It took a lot of wiggling to get that left vertical arm to fit (I was forced to remove the outer face plates of those two boxes on the left side of that left stud and move the actual connectors as far to the right as possible). All this would have been avoided if Sansu only made their fixed horizontal bar just a few inches longer to allow you to swap the vertical arms from left to right so as to face outside instead of inside (towards the middle of the panel).

Bottom line you will not be able to attach this mount FLUSH to the back of your panel - you will need to use the big spacer to give you that 1" between the flush wall mount and your panel. Once you have that there's enough room to plug in the AC and HDMI cables.

PS -if you can place your wall plates and/or conduit opening to the left side of the left vertical arm you are in WAY better position than if you have everything located dead center (in that scenario you have to route all the wires (with exception of AC) down under the left vertical arm and then up and around into the side inputs. Its a pain in the ass to do when holding the panel up before latching on to horizontal bar, and virtually impossible to do once the plasma is mounted. I had a buddy help me mount my 65" pig. He held the right side and I had to hold the left side of the plasma with one hand about half a foot away from the wall while I used my other hand to connect all the wires. Once we hang the plasma on the mount that was it - no going back to adjust anything directly behind the panel.
post #5235 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sickman View Post

How tight can a GT50 be mounted to a wall and still have clearance for power and HDMI cables? I don't know which way the input jacks face. In other words, if I use this mount that lies ".55" / 1.4 cm from the wall" would room for the cables be an issue? http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/visionmount/low-profile-mount/LL11
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

To orient the HDMI cables to the right-hand side and not have the cables sticking out or bent sharply, use two 270 degree port savers for each cable, Monoprice ID 3850. Somewhere on this forum there is a photo showing how it looks.
post #5236 of 9713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

To orient the HDMI cables to the right-hand side and not have the cables sticking out or bent sharply, use two 270 degree port savers for each cable, Monoprice ID 3850. Somewhere on this forum there is a photo showing how it looks.

I just re-posted them in the ST50 thread this morning......

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397245/official-panasonic-st50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/8190#post_22794266

900x900px-LL-f9440654_IMG_4884.jpeg
post #5237 of 9713
Ok, last try…

If a new owner uses D-Nice’s break-in slides, is it best recommended to use D-Nice’s settings as well for best picture optimization?

Are the two interconnected in some synergistic way… 1+1=3?

Or… can using the break-in slides stand on their own with a different set of settings? Can a new owner use the slides for breaking the panel in, then use CNET’s settings or Black Ops or someone else’s?

I cant seem to get an answer to the questions and it’s more curiosity than anything else. Ive used D-Nice slides and settings for a Pioneer Kuro and a 60st30 so I know they work great.

Any answers appreciated.
post #5238 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

Ok, last try…

If a new owner uses D-Nice’s break-in slides, is it best recommended to use D-Nice’s settings as well for best picture optimization?

Are the two interconnected in some synergistic way… 1+1=3?

Or… can using the break-in slides stand on their own with a different set of settings? Can a new owner use the slides for breaking the panel in, then use CNET’s settings or Black Ops or someone else’s?

I cant seem to get an answer to the questions and it’s more curiosity than anything else. Ive used D-Nice slides and settings for a Pioneer Kuro and a 60st30 so I know they work great.

Any answers appreciated.

It's hard to say. D-Nice tries to cut down on the variables as best he can by having a consistent process. In the end, there are variations in every GT50 though. The easiest way forward might be to follow his instructions for the slides. Then afterwards, try his settings and others to see what you prefer. You won't be able to nail it without buying a meter to calibrate it yourself or paying a professional to calibrate it for you.
post #5239 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sickman View Post

How tight can a GT50 be mounted to a wall and still have clearance for power and HDMI cables? I don't know which way the input jacks face. In other words, if I use this mount that lies ".55" / 1.4 cm from the wall" would room for the cables be an issue? http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/visionmount/low-profile-mount/LL11
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
I got Sanus ll22 for my 65"gt50. I used the next to the smallest sized spacers so the TV is exactly 2" off the wall. Used those right angle connectors Randy pictured. Plenty of room for the power cable as it lies pretty darn flat. The ll22 has a little kickstand the lifts bottom of TV off the wall enough for the wife to squeeze her hand in behind :-P
post #5240 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

It's hard to say. D-Nice tries to cut down on the variables as best he can by having a consistent process. In the end, there are variations in every GT50 though. The easiest way forward might be to follow his instructions for the slides. Then afterwards, try his settings and others to see what you prefer. You won't be able to nail it without buying a meter to calibrate it yourself or paying a professional to calibrate it for you.

Thanks, friend. I'm not gunshy about his settings at all; used them twice on two decent tvs as indicated above. It had just occurred to me that once you use those slides for 100 hours, have you done something to the phosphors that will only allow then to function at their highest capacity while on his settings.

It's kind of a question like choosing a path and once you've started down that path, you can't (easily) turn around and go back.

In the end, I'll say WTF and just do it though, I'm sure.

Thanks again!
post #5241 of 9713
my 10 year old 37 inch sony plasma died.
after doing a bit of research, the GT50 is now on top of my list.
From what i've read so far, there isn't much of a difference between VT50 and
why would anyone go for the ST50 nowadays? The price difference is only about $100.
So this led me to the GT50.

How much power does it use?
I've read that it uses 150 watts, but when i download the instructions, it says 400 watts??
post #5242 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I just re-posted them in the ST50 thread this morning......
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397245/official-panasonic-st50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/8190#post_22794266
900x900px-LL-f9440654_IMG_4884.jpeg

Whoever invented those deserves a Nobel Prize! I have mine on a stand and the cables I have are so thick they peak around the side before being pulled back.
post #5243 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by size14d View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I just re-posted them in the ST50 thread this morning......
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397245/official-panasonic-st50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/8190#post_22794266
900x900px-LL-f9440654_IMG_4884.jpeg

Whoever invented those deserves a Nobel Prize! I have mine on a stand and the cables I have are so thick they peak around the side before being pulled back.
Randy's solution is a classic by now. But, keep in mind that if HDMI related problems crop up in the future, every connection point in the entire HDMI chain will be suspect and need checking. I'd like to tell the guy at Panasonic a thing or two about the location of their HDMI inputs. eek.gif
post #5244 of 9713
What will happen to this forum now that there won't be a 2013 GT model? From what I read the lineup will be ZT60 (55", 65"), VT60 (55", 60", 65"), and ST60 (50", 55", 60", 65").
post #5245 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

What will happen to this forum now that there won't be a 2013 GT model? From what I read the lineup will be ZT60 (55", 65"), VT60 (55", 60", 65"), and ST60 (50", 55", 60", 65").

It happens every year. The 2011 GT30 thread didn't become the 2012 GT50 thread. There will be new threads for the new models.
post #5246 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I just re-posted them in the ST50 thread this morning......
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397245/official-panasonic-st50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/8190#post_22794266
900x900px-LL-f9440654_IMG_4884.jpeg

So, you only need the angle connector job if you're running cables across the back of the display to the other side? Or do you need them pretty much no matter what?

It looks like there is room if the cables run from the jack then out to the right (in your picture; left if facing the front of the display).

Appreciate the responses. Thanks.
post #5247 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sickman View Post

So, you only need the angle connector job if you're running cables across the back of the display to the other side? Or do you need them pretty much no matter what?
You need the right angle connectors if you want to hide the HDMI cables. For instance, our HDMI cable goes through the wall to a component rack on the other side. Our Pioneer's HDMI input is located such that the cable connected to the TV goes straight into the pass through that I've installed in the wall.

The same would be true if a TV was sitting on an equipment cabinet and the owner wanted to hide the cables. Any cable connecting directly into a Panasonic 2012 display will have the cables exposed on the left side of the display when viewed from the front. With 28 AWG cables,any bend sharp enough to hide the cables will cause the primary cable connection to be unstable.
post #5248 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

It happens every year. The 2011 GT30 thread didn't become the 2012 GT50 thread. There will be new threads for the new models.

Yes, but this year there won't be any GT series at all. Only ST, VT, and a new ZT, which is above VT not below as GT was.
post #5249 of 9713
In regards to my IR problem with the channel logo's (tru-tv, NBC), I've tried just about everything suggested and the problem doesn't seem to be going away, so I called Amazon this morning and requested an exchange, which they agreed to. I didn't tell them it was an IR problem, and they really didn't seem to care too much as to why it was being exchanged. At least when the new GT50 is delivered at the end of the week, I know not to watch any channels with static logos on it for a long time. It's a shame since it really limits what you can watch on your brand new television. But at least I'm being given a second chance here. I'm actually considering doing the D-Nice slides, but probably won't make that decision until I have the new set here.
post #5250 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boston Red Sox View Post

In regards to my IR problem with the channel logo's (tru-tv, NBC), I've tried just about everything suggested and the problem doesn't seem to be going away, so I called Amazon this morning and requested an exchange, which they agreed to. I didn't tell them it was an IR problem, and they really didn't seem to care too much as to why it was being exchanged. At least when the new GT50 is delivered at the end of the week, I know not to watch any channels with static logos on it for a long time. It's a shame since it really limits what you can watch on your brand new television. But at least I'm being given a second chance here. I'm actually considering doing the D-Nice slides, but probably won't make that decision until I have the new set here.

stuff makes me worried, if I should just cancel my order for Wednesday and just go the 60 in a couple of months.
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