Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 195

Thanks for your info.

I'm exploring some settings now by recommendation and it also sounds like Chad will be able to help me with this some when he comes out.
Edited by ASiani - 1/25/13 at 5:52am

Yeah static on/off would be nice Samsung has one theirs. I will say I had the same connectivity issues before I upgraded my router and I am now using dual band it works flawlessly with both devices on 5ghz channel. Not sure how you are networked but I had to do a major overhaulto my wireless LAN to really get the most out of alot of these apps and tvs.

Film based BD of recent vintage are generally 1080/24P native. Video based BD will generally be 1080/50P or 60P.

Not sure what BDP you have, but relevant settings in Screen Settings Menu for my Sony BDP-S790 are:
Cinema Conversion Mode
Auto: Normally select this. The player
automatically detects whether the
material is video-based or filmbased,
and switches to the
appropriate conversion method.
Video: The conversion method suited for
video-based material will always be
selected, regardless of the material.

BD-ROM 24p Output
Auto: Outputs 1080/24p or 4K/24p
video signals only if you connect a
1080/24p or 4K/24p-compatible TV
with the HDMI OUT jack.
On: Select this if your TV is compatible
with 1080/24p or 4K/24p video
signals.
Off: Select this if your TV is not
compatible with 1080/24p or 4K/
24p video signals.

DVD-ROM 24p Output
Auto: Outputs 1080/24p or 4K/24p
video signals only if you connect a
1080/24p or 4K/24p-compatible TV
with the HDMI OUT jack.
Off: Select this if your TV is not
compatible with 1080/24p or 4K/
24p video signals.

YCbCr/RGB (HDMI)
Auto: Automatically detects the
connected TV type, and switches to
the matching color setting.
YCbCr (4:2:2): Outputs YCbCr 4:2:2
video signals.
YCbCr (4:4:4): Outputs YCbCr 4:4:4
video signals.
RGB: Outputs RGB video signals.

Output Video Format
HDMI: Normally select [Auto]. Select
[Original Resolution] to output the
resolution recorded on the disc.
When the resolution is lower than
the SD resolution, it is scaled up to
the SD resolution.
Video: Automatically sets the lowest
resolution.

Depending on the BDP there may similar setting options available.

I've selected AUTO for all but the last two which are set for RGB and Original Resolution respectively. RGB setting is intrinsically 4:4:4.

Basic requirement for 1080P Pure Direct is 4:4:4 HDMI input; sounds as if you're sending a 4:2:2 input, in which case, 1080P Pure Direct option will be disabled.
Edited by Iain- - 1/25/13 at 9:03am

What you're seeing with moire will translate directly to significant improvement of fine detail in normal viewing. That's what I'm seeing as well.

EDIT: Main caveat of this is it's all down to quality of source material; IOW, garbage in, garbage out.

My 1080P Pure Direct findings are preliminary, but I expect PQ to improve significantly once TV gets proper run-in. After all, I've only had it for three days.

BD titles used in this assessment are:

• HBO "The Pacific". Reference PQ and surround AQ. Best title I have for this.
• Paramount Director's Cut "Watchmen". it's tier 0 rated here. I concur totally.
• Disney "Ratatouille" R2 DVD. Up-scaled by Denon AVR-3313 to 1080P.

Edited by Iain- - 1/25/13 at 9:30am

Please forgive the slightly newbie here that hasn't read the 195 pages....

But I'm very close to buying a plasma and it comes down to a $49 difference between the ST50 or GT50 (both 50inch) and I'm wondering the difference in picture quality or video processing between the two devices. Of course the normal thinking would be "duh, get the GT50 because it's a higher end model!" but with how many AMAZING reviews the ST 50 has got, I'm not sure if moving to the GT50 is even worth the $49. I don't really care about anything besides NetFlix or Hulu so unless that dual core will make the picture quality better, I don't plan to use it with Apps.

I plan to use Cnet's picture settings and with what it sounds like, THX is decent, but not better then dialing in your own settings so...

Final question would be on if 3D is better on the GT50 in THX mode since Cnet doesn't calibrate specifically for 3D.


I know $49 isn't much, but that's another set of 3D glasses or something...

When it was $300 price difference, this question is valid...$50 is a no brainer and just do it. You may not care about the internet apps now, but you may later. At which point you are then going to have to go get an AppleTV or Roku. The convenience of having the THX mode is nice since in Custom you can dial in your 'critical viewing' settings and use THX Bright for day time, etc. Its worth the $50 convenience...

FYI, I settled on the GT50 weeks before the latest prices and then having waited the $50 made it a no brainer...

So this means that the actual content on my BD has to be 24P in order to even have it be processed as 24P by the BD. Is this something I just need to look on the disk jacket to identify if it is or not?

thanks for the explanation. Mines a Sony BDP so it should be similar.

Seriously? Get the GT. Some of us would have killed for that deal when they first came out. No offense but if you're sweating $49 like that should you be buying a $1000 tv?

Definitely go with the GT imo. Plus, as a bonus, Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I'm not really sweating the $49, just saying I don't want to just go with it thinking "more expensive is better", even though right now the price difference is so little...

I guess I was just kinda thinking since the panels seem so damn close in picture quality and the step up features didn't seem to actually work (extra shades of gradation, etc) then there might be a larger owner pool of the ST50 for future questions or calibrations, etc.

I totally didn't think about the easy THX day mode or what not vs my controlled light settings...

I'll probably get the GT50, just wasn't sure if it was a "black sheep" kinda of thing especially since it's being dropped this year.

Understood. You can still post in the ST forum for many things. They share 99% of the features and functions.

It's not just the extra features but the look itself, the GT-50 looks more high end in my opinion.

i had the same question and went with the GT50.
It was an easy decision.
The blacks are a little better. The TV is thinner and has a much higher end look than the ST50.

I have the st and from the pictures on Amazon they look the same as the gt. What is it that makes the gt have a much higher end look? I have never seen one in person.

Thinner bezel and real metal strip all round. ST50 are plastic.

No requirement for it, Generally If title is a movie it will have been shot on film, therefore it will be 1080/24P. Film is 24 FPS, therefore BD will be 24 Hz frame rate.

Even chance that TV series will be film or video based and therefore could be 24 Hz or 50 Hz frame rate.
Edited by Iain- - 1/25/13 at 1:20pm

trying blackops night setting. anyone know if the gamma setting of 2.4 is for larger screens or does it apply to the 55" as well? i know hd-master suggested 2.6 for smaller screens like the 55.

I agree ,especially if its going to be wall mounted ..

The setting actually measures differently than how it is labeled.

On the larger GT50's (60" & 65"): The 2.4 setting is closer to 2.2 in reality and the 2.6 setting is closer to 2.4 in reality.

On the smaller GT50's (50" & 60"): The 2.6 setting is closer to 2.2 in reality.

The settings you mentioned were for a 65" GT50.

ST has a very plastic'y look about it. GT has a more refined and "professional" look. PQ is about the same but I think the GT has a darker filter and may therefore give a better black level. That extra HDMI connector on the GT may be needed at some point. Dual core processor isn't too important today but may be useful later on. For $50, I don't think it's a hard decision.

I'm not the one having trouble making the decision. I am very well aware of the specs of both but was more interested in the cosmetic differences. Plasticky, more refined and professional isn't exactly what I was asking about. But that's ok. The differences in appearance have already been explained to me.

I hope this isn't breaking forum rules, but had to share.

So last weekend we placed an order with Amazon for a 60gt50, which I had put on our wish list because it was at $ #### i didn't buy immediately because needed to take measurements. Unfortunately, when my husband put the order in, the price had jumped up $200. However, yesterday after reading on here someone mentioning the Amazon price guarantee, I checked the site and saw price was back down the $200. . Emailed Amazon and received confirmation of refund. Thanks guys!

It is supposed to be delivered tomorrow. Can't wait.

Congrats and enjoy it. Post your impressions upon firing it up!

Has anyone had any success doing this? I tried with an ATV3 but it only passes back 2.0 over HDMI back to my AVR whereas I can send 5.1 played back on the TV itself to my AVR via ARC - am I missing something or is this not also possible with connected devices?

So i feel I have dialed in my 60" gt the best I can. I still have a few issues and i'm hoping some of you experienced plasma owners can tell me what is normal and just part of the plasma lifestyle so I can decide if i need to exchange for another GT, or perhaps get into a different model like a VT, or just move into LED. For comparison i'm running a 55" HX950 side by side and not seeing any of these issues.

As mentioned a few days ago in watching hockey or anything with a light screen I can see what some of you call DSE ....lots of faint vertical splotchy shadow lines in the screen. I only see it on some content. It's not drastic but it does catch my eye watching that content. This differs from the defined vertical band i had 2 inches from the right side that seems to have faded.

In addition on light screens I can see "select change" in the bottom left corner from spending so much time messing with the picture settings. I'm guessing it will go away from running the scrolling bar. Makes me nervous though. Seems like an awful lot of work and babysitting for a TV that i should just be able to turn on, off, watch, and not worry about being a part of life i need to think about.

I also have a noticeable amount of mpeg noise on large solid backgrounds.

Lastly, on occasion when watching something that has a solid background i get these waves, mostly on tv commercials. The picture below is not mine but it's an example of what i'm referring to. Is it normal for plasma?

I ran the Evangelo break in slides for 200 hrs but per Dnice's post on standard I ran them in standard mode. I have also put 70 hrs of normal viewing in Custom on the Gt. My questions are:



1. How do I know what degree of picture uniformity, blotchiness, DSE, and temporary IR is acceptable? Is the DSE i'm mentioned pretty much normal for just about any plasma? If I exchange will i just have similar issues in other spots?

2. Should I rerun slides but on a brighter setting to age the pixels more? if so will the DSE go away? Will it take care of other issues?

3. Would a VT50 have less of these issues?

Sorry to jumble up the forum with this guys but i'm new to plasma and i have nowhere else to turn.

That's not really the point of ARC. Your devices should be connected to your AVR. ARC is intended for the use of returning audio via HDMI when using OTA or Internet apps....basically audio coming from the TV rather than an external device.

I am about to update my settings. No changes to the 2D versions. I am adding 3D.

My settings have been removed following the actions of JSpectre88.
Edited by HD-Master - 2/26/13 at 10:38pm

Sweet, 3d settings for the masses! Will try this wknd. Thx HD