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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 219

post #6541 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dagg21 View Post

Hey for all the pros out there I just got around to filling out the product registration online and it refers to serial number on the rear of the model. well mine is mounted to the wall above the fireplace and no way its coming down so is there another way to get it. I googled and stumbled accross a thread for service menu to check hours that sort of referred to serial # being in there but after looking it didnt jump out at me.

I also found it odd they dont requrie that during registration do i even need to bother?

Should be on the box if you still have it.
post #6542 of 9047
Mine has the serial right by the buttons on the side, which a quick pic with a cellphone should be able to show.
post #6543 of 9047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by penguin22 View Post

Mine has the serial right by the buttons on the side, which a quick pic with a cellphone should be able to show.

+1
post #6544 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by acarney View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Yes, that is the only way 3D can be calibrated.

Is that how you did your settings for 3D mode? I figure I'll just use yours when I take delivery smile.gif

Yep! It's a pain in the rear end too! I need to apply a few tweaks and update them.
post #6545 of 9047
Bit of a question about this display... I don't have any professional calibration gear, and I'm not really planning on paying for the service right now, but I usually try to at least get a display close to decent using the test images at lagom.nl. This GT50 gives me really odd results on the gamma tests that I don't have the technical understanding to interpret. I'm using the test images on this page: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php

Obviously the first thing I did with the display was turn off (or down as far as they go) all of the image processing features including sharpness. So when I put these gamma test images up (I have the display connected to a PC) they show very good white/gray gamma, as close to 2.2 as you could get it using this kind of inaccurate test. The thing that concerns me is that all of the color gamma bars are way off. They all track somewhere around 2.7-2.8, which seems more than slightly wrong. I can get them closer to 2.2 by increasing the color picture setting, however it starts to clip saturated colors before it actually makes it to 2.2. I've never seen anything like this on any display I've used before. All of my LCD monitors show color gamma numbers that are at least very close to the white gamma, and my old Pioneer 5080 shows nearly perfect results all the way across.

Basically I'm confused about a few things. First, are these test patterns even going to work at all on this display with the amount of undefeatable sharpness it has? Even at 0 the display fails the sharpness test on the page, and I've seen the subject brought up a number of times. The white gamma does appear to track accurately on the test image (it moves up and down if I change the gamma setting on the TV itself, or using the NV CP). The "inversion" test, which I know is probably not relevant to plasma displays, does show an odd result: two of the 11 patterns are actually purple (a couple of the patterns are made up of green and purple pixels that should end up looking gray on any display I've ever seen). I'm not sure if this confirms the results of the gamma test or proves them to be completely useless... green is the color the tracks the highest (darkest) on those tests.

If that's not the issue then I'd love to know what this actually means. Is the default color saturation just really low, and if so why does it start to clip on the contrast tests (only the color bars) before I can get it to 2.2 on all the gamma color bars? I've messed around with the WB settings in the pro menu, but they seem to have little to no effect on these results. I also won't be able to use any pro settings in the majority of my time with the display; I'm using it primarily as part of my PC gaming rig, so it'll spend much of its time in "game" mode due to the latency. I realize this already totally messes up the image by applying dynamic contrast, but I'd still like to know what these results mean anyway.

Any feedback is appreciated, since it's pretty much going to remain a mystery to me unless I can hear from anyone else. Just to make things interesting, I had a chance to try this on an ST50 and it produced nearly the opposite result (white gamma normal, color gamma a bit bright/low).
post #6546 of 9047
So I have had my 60GT50 for almost 2 months now. I'm coming from a 55VT30. This TV rocks. I used Hidef masters settings and I haven't touched the settings once since! I use his settings for Dish and my media player/DVDs and I use game mode for Xbox and Ps3. Game mode is a huge improvement over my Vt30. I play tons of xbox 360 and haven't noticed any image retention/burn in etc. The colors are great, and I think the thing that helps the most is the increased brightness over the 2011 models. No fluctuating brightness, good sharpness, clear picture. This is what I've been missing! Now what to do what that Vt30 which nobody wants!
post #6547 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

MY NEW SETTINGS

... enjoy![/B]

Plugged in the night time wide color settings, looks very nice.

Biggest thing I noticed is how the color red just explodes off the screen. I really think these are he best plug'm in's so far although I did bump the contrast up 2 ticks.
post #6548 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Maybe he was sick about the state of the Union.
Lol.......
post #6549 of 9047
Just curious if anyone can tell me what's up with Game mode? I tried to calibrate it the other day and got some strange results. I'm only talking about using AVS709, nothing more serious than that. When I did Custom mode I wound up with about 80 contrast and 56 brightness, everything was fairly accurate in the basic settings and the gray-scale tools. In Game mode however, setting one thing accurately gave incorrect results everywhere else. For instance if I set the black screen to flash at 17, the next screen would only show two flashing bars, it wouldn't flash to 19. Then in gray-scale options 16 and the next bar would both be pitch black. Any change to make the gray-scale appear correctly would result in dark grays instead of blacks. I ended up just setting it low enough to make a black background appear completely dark, but I was thoroughly confused by all of it.
post #6550 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by acarney View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom Stranger View Post

I will interrupt your regularly scheduled programming to inform you to update your link for the Blu-ray Picture Quality Tiers. That is the older thread and has not been updated since May. The current PQ Tiers (an excellent way to find demo material is by picking from Tier 0) can be found here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1425519/the-official-picture-quality-tiers-for-blu-ray-rankings-updated-through-december-1-2012/0_60#post_22325128

Awesome! How is this set though? Are the placed into tiers based on viewing them and judging, or is there information released somewhere with each disc saying how they were mastered and at what bit rate, etc?
You are always welcome to read or join the discussion thread for the Blu-ray Picture Quality Tiers, found here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/858316/the-new-pq-tier-thread-for-blu-ray-discussion/20040_60#post_22962651
The placements and final rankings are determined by anyone willing to give their two cents in the discussion thread, based off an agreed-upon set of criteria for the best video quality that 1080P can produce. The first post lays out most of what is considered, but it's not that hard to figure out movies like Toy Story 3 and Avatar are two of the highest-ranked discs released so far on the format.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain- View Post

Thanks for the information; my link is now updated.

BTW, BD titles used for my GT50 PQ analysis are:
  • The Pacific - HBO
  • Ratatouille - Pixar
  • The Sound of Music (45th Anniversary Edition) - Fox
  • Watchmen (Director's Cut) - Paramount
Those are all excellent selections as demo material, particularly since they hit a wide range of material from modern CGI to classic film.
post #6551 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Just curious if anyone can tell me what's up with Game mode. I tried to calibrate it the other day and got some strange results. I'm only talking about using AVS709, nothing more serious than that. When I did Custom mode I wound up with about 80 contrast and 56 brightness, everything was fairly accurate in the basic settings and the gray-scale tools. In Game mode however, setting one thing accurately gave incorrect results everywhere else. For instance if I set the black screen to flash at 17, the next screen would only show two flashing bars, it wouldn't flash to 19. Then in gray-scale options 16 and the next bar would both be pitch black. Any change to make the gray-scale appear correctly would result in dark grays instead of blacks. I ended up just setting it low enough to make a black background appear completely dark, but I was thoroughly confused by all of it.

Unfortunately game mode enables some dynamic contrast you cannot disable. It's not unlike the results you get if you forget to disable it in custom mode. The input lag is quite bad in any other mode so it is very disappointing that no one has ever found a way to disable it.
post #6552 of 9047
How many of you have horizontal line bleed?

I have a little on my new 60" GT50. I had to return my first one due to a bad panel (had a lazer red line up and down the screen.)
Just got this new one and notice this bleed thing.
I only notice it on the news stations when the line comes across skin color.

But if i turn on a DVD and it goes to the green screen for the Ratings... you can see the A LOT more.

From what I understand and have read... ALL plasma T.V.s have this to a degree.
I'd like some input on this from GT50 owners.

Here's a link to my thread I posted with different pics of it.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1458171/need-help-with-faint-lines-not-vertical-but-horizontal

And again... Is it true virtually every plasma has this to some degree? That is what I've been reading so far.
I notice when I up the contrast it gets better but still slightly there sometimes on normal viewing.
This is hard to even say given how it is a small amount if NOT on the green screen anyway.

If it is not true that most plasma's have this to an extent... I will be returning it for a second time.
I just don't want to trade one that isn't bad for one that has it worse if all have it to an extent.

Does anyone know a way to completely get rid of it?

If others can test theirs using a green screen I'd appreciate it.
This is DEFINITELY the way to see it the best. You may or may not miss it if you don't and just look on normal viewing.
Some say the green screen is the only way they can see it. Like I said... I'd REALLY appreciate it if others could test this and post about it.
Edited by mustangman77 - 2/14/13 at 6:53am
post #6553 of 9047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangman77 View Post

How many of you have horizontal line bleed?.

All of us. Every single Plasma owner has Line Bleed.


Quote:
From what I understand and have read... ALL plasma T.V.s have this to a degree. I'd like some input on this from GT50 owners.

There is no need for further input from GT50 owners, it's present on all Plasmas and the GT50 is no different.


Quote:
And again... Is it true virtually every plasma has this to some degree? That is what I've been reading so far.

Yes it's true. Why are you not believing everything you've been reading about it already?

Quote:
If it is not true that most plasma's have this to an extent... I will be returning it for a second time. I just don't want to trade one that isn't bad for one that has it worse if all have it to an extent.

Well some seem to display it worse than others or on more content than others so you have to decide if it's a deal breaker for you or not.

Quote:
Does anyone know a way to completely get rid of it?

There is no way, other than to either stop looking for it, ignoring it in the brief moments that you spot it, or switching to LCD or LED LCD instead and putting up with even more serious issues that those TVs have.

Quote:
If others can test theirs using a green screen I'd appreciate it. This is DEFINITELY the way to see it the best. You may or may not miss it if you don't and just look on normal viewing. Some say the green screen is the only way they can see it. Like I said... I'd REALLY appreciate it if others could test this and post about it.

There's no need for us to test it - all the data posted over the past ten years is already there, the consensus is that all Plasmas do it, and you've apparently already read everything there is to know about it. It's an extremely minor quirk of Plasma technology and it's best to just not obsess over it and stop looking for it, and ignore it when you do spot it. Or go LCD.
post #6554 of 9047
Randy,

Thanks so much for the help!
You made me feel so much better!

The reason I posted this is the things I have read were not always from reliable sources, Wiki, etc.
I wanted to ask here to make sure.

I really appreciate your help.
Mine is barely noticeable UNLESS I turn it to that gosh awful T.V. rating green screen.

This is my firs plasma and after I had to return the first one for a faulty panel I just wanted to make sure I was not having any problems that I should NOT be having.
Again... thanks so much for the help.

Mucho appreciato-ed (Muchos gracias!) hehehe!

Besides... LCD's have their own problems with display in about every one if I'm not mistaken.
Correct me if I'm wrong. I don't mean with line bleed but other problems inherent to them on practically every one.
If that's not so and LCD is the ONE display that usually has NO problems with the display whatsoever... PLEASE correct me hahaha!
I'd definitely buy one if that were the case!
post #6555 of 9047
+1 on Randy's line bleed post.
post #6556 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Tune to an HD channel.
Turn the box off, but leave the TV on.
Press the menu button on the Comcast remote immediately after turning it off.
Turn "Native" off and ONLY select the 1080i (and 1080p if available) resolution.

Sometimes, handshake issues can occur when switching from a channel with one resolution to a channel with a different resolution. The GT50's deal better with 1080i (rather than 720p) anyway, so you're better off sending it that from your cable box.

When I access this menu, there is an option for Dolby Audio. It can be set to on or off. Mine was set to off. I turned it on, but it seemed to make the volume level lower? Do you think it should be on or off?

Thanks.
post #6557 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhcubed View Post

When I access this menu, there is an option for Dolby Audio. It can be set to on or off. Mine was set to off. I turned it on, but it seemed to make the volume level lower? Do you think it should be on or off?

Thanks.
I leave mine off. I've tried both and cannot tell a difference
post #6558 of 9047
I should have a new 60GT50 installed this Sunday. I'm coming from Panasonic TH-50PHD9UK so I'm really looking forward to the added size and 1080p smile.gif. I was wondering if there are specific settings I should use for the first 100-200 hours of break in? I looked in the first post and saw some preferred settings but did not see any settings for initial break in. I did no real break in with the TH-50PHD9UK and it still looks fine. So if there are any settings, viewing habits to avoid or features I should or should not use the input would be appreciated. Thanks smile.gif!

Bill
post #6559 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhcubed View Post

When I access this menu, there is an option for Dolby Audio. It can be set to on or off. Mine was set to off. I turned it on, but it seemed to make the volume level lower? Do you think it should be on or off?

Thanks.

From the user manual for my box:

The Dolby Volume default setting is Off. The options are used as follows:
• Off—Feature is turned off and the output volume may fluctuate during commercials or when changing channels.
• On—Feature is turned on and the DCX3501-M will maintain a more consistent output volume regardless of the channel or program being viewed.

I have mine turned off.
post #6560 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

I should have a new 60GT50 installed this Sunday. I'm coming from Panasonic TH-50PHD9UK so I'm really looking forward to the added size and 1080p smile.gif. I was wondering if there are specific settings I should use for the first 100-200 hours of break in? I looked in the first post and saw some preferred settings but did not see any settings for initial break in. I did no real break in with the TH-50PHD9UK and it still looks fine. So if there are any settings, viewing habits to avoid or features I should or should not use the input would be appreciated. Thanks smile.gif!

Bill
Hey Bill, some have used the D-nice slides and others have just watched their TV. I personally have just watched my set in standard mode for the first 150 hours or so switching around stations and occasionally running the scrolling bar anti retention program. Either way if you have a good set you should not have any problems. After break-in there were several custom settings here that you can dial in and play around with. I currently use HD-Masters Night warm 2 settings. He has done a lot of work and has tweaked several of the settings for Viera cast and 3-D. Best of luck with the new set the TC-P60GT50 is greatest mines beautiful!
post #6561 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacNThorens View Post


Hey Bill, some have used the D-nice slides and others have just watched their TV. I personally have just watched my set in standard mode for the first 150 hours or so switching around stations and occasionally running the scrolling bar anti retention program. Either way if you have a good set you should not have any problems. After break-in there were several custom settings here that you can dial in and play around with. I currently use HD-Masters Night warm 2 settings. He has done a lot of work and has tweaked several of the settings for Viera cast and 3-D. Best of luck with the new set the TC-P60GT50 is greatest mines beautiful!

Hey Mac,

Thanks for your thoughts, much appreciated smile.gif. Its funny that I joined AVS in 2003 and spent most of my time in this forum. But then I got away from video and more into audio and music. But with the purchase of the 60GT50 I have a feeling I'll be spending more time here once again.

Bill
post #6562 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

Hey Mac,

Thanks for your thoughts, much appreciated smile.gif. Its funny that I joined AVS in 2003 and spent most of my time in this forum. But then I got away from video and more into audio and music. But with the purchase of the 60GT50 I have a feeling I'll be spending more time here once again.

Bill

I agree. There's lots of great info here and I've learned a lot about the set. I really am happy with my purchase. Now just working on the speakers for the set up. It's time for new speakers so I can start playing some of my albums again. Just as a recommendation… You may want to purchase Avatar in 3-D to have for your collection. The 3-D looks really great also.
post #6563 of 9047
Hello,
I honestly love my 60GT50 more with each passing day. If debating between a GT50 and ST60, I honestly do not understand why one would get a ST60. In addition to the THX Modes, the GT50 also sports a dual core processor which really helps with the various VIera Apps. In addition, the GT50 has the same 24,xxx Steps of Gradation whereas the ST60 has 12,288.

From the pictures it does look like the ST60 looks almost identical to the GT50 and both use the 2500FFD. Provided the prices are the same or within $100, I do not think the new GUI makes the juice worth the squeeze.
Cheers,
AD
post #6564 of 9047
Edit: I was wrong
Edited by HD-Master - 2/14/13 at 9:09pm
post #6565 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Yep! It's a pain in the rear end too! I need to apply a few tweaks and update them.

It's part of the reason why I selected the GT50 (almost here!), thank you for always searching for perfection and sharing your settings! (And explaining WHY you used them...)
post #6566 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiodork View Post

Hello,
I honestly love my 60GT50 more with each passing day. If debating between a GT50 and ST60, I honestly do not understand why one would get a ST60. In addition to the THX Modes, the GT50 also sports a dual core processor which really helps with the various VIera Apps. In addition, the GT50 has the same 24,xxx Steps of Gradation whereas the ST60 has 12,288.

................

Cheers,
AD

Dual-core processor will also give faster on-line response times. I notice this all the time with my Sony BDP-S790; significantly faster than the BDP-S770 it replaced.

BTW, the steps of gradation are the only thing I'm sceptical of on GT50.

Is this noticeable or is it simply more marketing fluff?
post #6567 of 9047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain- View Post

....BTW, the steps of gradation are the only thing I'm sceptical of on GT50. Is this noticeable or is it simply more marketing fluff?

Last year when D-Nice was evaluating his example GT50 he said the 24,576 Steps of Gradation wasn't noticeable over the ST50's 12,288 steps. If he can't see the difference, then none of us can wink.gif
post #6568 of 9047
Did Panasonic ever resolve the buzzing issue? Would a later build date tv have a better chance of not buzzing? & What % of all GT-50's buzz? Just asking in anticipation of my GT50 arrival......
post #6569 of 9047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpl20 View Post

Did Panasonic ever resolve the buzzing issue? Would a later build date tv have a better chance of not buzzing? & What % of all GT-50's buzz? Just asking in anticipation of my GT50 arrival......

The GT50 doesn't have a "buzzing issue", no more so than any other model or brand. Buzzing is a side effect of one of several different possible defective components inside a Plasma TV and all brands and models have experienced those random defects since the first Plasma TVs became available in the late 90's.

If you happen to get one that buzzes beyond a few feet then it's either out-of-spec or has an internal defect and needs to be returned, replaced, or repaired. Period. The vast majority of us 2012 Panny owners have perfectly silent TVs.
post #6570 of 9047
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmallen View Post

From the user manual for my box:

The Dolby Volume default setting is Off. The options are used as follows:
• Off—Feature is turned off and the output volume may fluctuate during commercials or when changing channels.
• On—Feature is turned on and the DCX3501-M will maintain a more consistent output volume regardless of the channel or program being viewed.

I have mine turned off.

Thanks for the info. I turned it on and off again last night. It seemed to me that with it turned on, the volume was lower and sounded kind of shallow. I was just curious. I left it turned off also.
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