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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 221

post #6601 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagSec 4 View Post

Actually there is a way to disable this dynamic contrast crap. Go to hdmi settings then to content type and switch to graphics. Instantly the dynamic contrast is gone now can someone please calibrate game mode on this tv and post the settings? Right now im using d-nice's settings but if someone could get close to those using game mode, i would love to play god of war ascension using game mode calibrated to d65. The only downside to game mode is that you cant adjust white balance unless you go into the system menu. Experiment guys.

Was the dynamic contrast the reason I couldn't even calibrate by disk properly or is that a separate issue? I switched to graphics and it was exactly the same as before.
post #6602 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post

Just a quick question. I've read that the PQ between this and the ST50 is virtually identical, but I've also seen that the ST50's can get brighter than this model. I'm wondering only cause I can't find a 60 inch ST50 anywhere, but 60 inch GT50's are scarce but around and I really want a 60 inch TV this time around. Are a calibrated ST50 and a calibrated GT50 virtually identical?
Yes
post #6603 of 9713
Well, I'm sure this has been addressed so I apologize in advance. I'm feeling like an idiot. I bought into the propoganda that newer plasmas did not have the same burn in/IR issues as older models and I did not take the proper care and break in that I did with my older Panny plasma units (which operate flawlessly). I'm paying the price now (and yes I commited the sin of high contrast levels).

It seems I have some serious IR from the CNBC ticker as well Disney channel logo and others. My panel has been used for about 6 weeks so I fear the damage may be permanent as I have read is that it can be reduced but not eliminated completely.

I have used the screen wipe function several times with minimal results. I left the TV on HBO all night hoping to "use" the whole screen enough to alleviate the issue with lackluster results. The IR is very clearly visible when white screens are displayed.

I have also read that displaying a snow pattern for a period of itme may also help reduce the IR if run for some amount of hours. The issue I am having is that the TV knows there is no analogue source availabe therefore I am unable to choose that source to produce the pattern. Does anybody know a way around that?

I humbly ask for advice and tips to help me with my issue. Thank you.
post #6604 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by stansbrand1 View Post

I ordered my 60gt50 from Paul's yesterday for 1699. Still hasn't shipped yet. Im hoping they didn't run out of stock out something crazy like that lol.
For those of you who ordered from them was it a pleasant experience? How long did it take to ship?

I had no trouble at all with Paul's. Took a week to get my 60GT50. Mine was shipped by HomeDirect. Was shipped from Massachusetts to Eastern PA. Paul's will send you a email with a tracking (Waybill) number so you can track it through HomeDirect.
I am not sure if the "local" delivery personnel were from HomeDirect or just subbed out. Once my set arrived at the distribution center in Philly, they called me to set up a delivery date and time. They guys that delivered it to my house were very professional. They actually seemed like they knew what they were doing. They unpacked the TV for me to inspect to make sure there was no damage. (If there is you must refuse delivery). That's as much as they do. They will not mount it or even attach the stand.

Maybe I was one of the "lucky" ones. Everything went smoothly and the GT50 is great. No IR, buzzing or any of the other problems some people seem to have.
post #6605 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by black318is View Post

I had no trouble at all with Paul's. Took a week to get my 60GT50. Mine was shipped by HomeDirect. Was shipped from Massachusetts to Eastern PA. Paul's will send you a email with a tracking (Waybill) number so you can track it through HomeDirect.
I am not sure if the "local" delivery personnel were from HomeDirect or just subbed out. Once my set arrived at the distribution center in Philly, they called me to set up a delivery date and time. They guys that delivered it to my house were very professional. They actually seemed like they knew what they were doing. They unpacked the TV for me to inspect to make sure there was no damage. (If there is you must refuse delivery). That's as much as they do. They will not mount it or even attach the stand.

Maybe I was one of the "lucky" ones. Everything went smoothly and the GT50 is great. No IR, buzzing or any of the other problems some people seem to have.

If you read my posts here, your experience mirrors mine, except for the fact that my box had a hole in it (on the screen side). Luckily there were no poke holes in the wrapping and the screen wasnt damaged. Lucky indeed. I am not sure I would do Paul's again unless they have an extraordinary deal that no one will PM. This is definitely a YMMV scenario.
post #6606 of 9713
I have had the ST50 and I now have the GT50 despite the PQ maybe being the same as others have posted the ST50 looks a lot cheaper looking especially with the plastic rim. If 100.00-200.00 is the only difference I would go for the GT50.
Just my two cents.
Mo
post #6607 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Was the dynamic contrast the reason I couldn't even calibrate by disk properly or is that a separate issue? I switched to graphics and it was exactly the same as before.
That's strange, do you have a ps3? Try to view a picture on it then switch from graphics to off while in the game mode preset. To me off looks like there is a contrast or gamma and color spike and when i switch to graphics it seems to correct it. Try to switch from graphics to off constantly and you will see.
post #6608 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by mental1 View Post


I have used the screen wipe function several times with minimal results. I left the TV on HBO all night hoping to "use" the whole screen enough to alleviate the issue with lackluster results. The IR is very clearly visible when white screens are displayed.
What about this doesn't make sense? Six weeks of high contrast fixed images and one night of full screen no fixed images? Notice the discrepancy in time frames in that question. wink.gif

Would someone who doesn't know what happened notice the IR if they were watching a Blu-ray or DVD movie with an aspect ratio that filled your screen (1.78:1 -- 16x9)? Notice the absence of white screens in that question. wink.gif

Take a vacation from the specific channels that caused the IR you're seeing, and mix your viewing material much better than you have in the last six weeks. Stay away from having the same fixed image on the screen for an inordinate length of time. Also, stay away from the solid color or white screens that are used to find IR. Your screen will gradually age enough to even out, and the IR you shouldn't be searching for will be gone.

I watch a lot of NFL on Fox, CBS, NBC, ESPN, and the NFL Network. My wife watches almost every NHL game that our local team plays except for a few games that she attends. All that sports programing involves fixed images for two to four hours at a stretch. Once in a great while I watch a NFL double header on the same channel for maybe seven hours.

The rest of the time we watch shiny disk movies from Netflix with a mix of either no black bars or side black bars or top and bottom black bars. We also watch our local public broadcasting station. All most all of what we watch has black bars, logos or other fixed images. Those fixed images vary in contrast from very low to high. We don't run our set as background filler like a radio. So far, that behavior has protected us from IR for over five years. In that time I've checked for IR with colored slides one time as part of an IR discussion here at AVS.

Mix it up and enjoy. smile.gif

Edit: Pixar animation movies with a 1.78:1 aspect ratio are good sources to use to speed up image retention removal, and if you play them on repeat during the time you're not using your TV it will be even faster. A lot of people have had good results using the pixel flipper in the Disney WoW Blu-ray disk. I own it, but I've never used that feature.
Edited by htwaits - 1/28/14 at 12:40pm
post #6609 of 9713
Thanks for the response. I do see your point about the time periods. Even though I have been viewing the TV for 6 weeks, do you see any benefit of running the break in slides at this point? I know I shouldn't be looking for it, but when I do the wipe, I can certainly notice large areas where the white areas are not uniform. I don't want to over think it, but I do want to do what is best for the TV long term and more importantly my viewing of it. Thanks again!
post #6610 of 9713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post

Just a quick question. I've read that the PQ between this and the ST50 is virtually identical, but I've also seen that the ST50's can get brighter than this model. I'm wondering only cause I can't find a 60 inch ST50 anywhere, but 60 inch GT50's are scarce but around and I really want a 60 inch TV this time around. Are a calibrated ST50 and a calibrated GT50 virtually identical?

Yes. Both use the exact same Plasma panel, exact same Pro Settings menus, exact same AR Filter, and exact same Black Filter so i don't see how the ST50 can get any brighter than a GT50 - both should be identically bright as long as they're both in the same Picture mode (Cinema or Custom for instance). I can't see how one could be brighter than the other, and i can't remember seeing any credible posts that one is brighter than the other.

The VT50 however is a little less bright than the ST50/GT50 due to it's darker black filter.
post #6611 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by mental1 View Post

Even though I have been viewing the TV for 6 weeks, do you see any benefit of running the break in slides at this point?
To paraphrase what D-Nice has at the top of each and every post that contain his calibration setting. By the way, he makes the point in very large red bold face type. Using slides to age the display evenly for 100 hours is in no way related to preventing IR.
Quote:
I know I shouldn't be looking for it, but when I do the wipe, I can certainly notice large areas where the white areas are not uniform.
In most cases the "wipe" is a placebo to make you feel better. Normal use of your TV with a constant mix of what you're watching is a better way to take care of your TV. It's more fun too. biggrin.gif
post #6612 of 9713
htwaits
That "watching shiny discs" thing cracks me up every time. biggrin.gif
post #6613 of 9713
sorry Wrong Thread
post #6614 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

htwaits
That "watching shiny discs" thing cracks me up every time. biggrin.gif
With so much streaming, how else can one indicate the real thing? wink.gif
post #6615 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagSec 4 View Post

That's strange, do you have a ps3? Try to view a picture on it then switch from graphics to off while in the game mode preset. To me off looks like there is a contrast or gamma and color spike and when i switch to graphics it seems to correct it. Try to switch from graphics to off constantly and you will see.

I tried it again and it definitely turns off dynamic brightness in darker scenes when set to graphics or photo. For whatever reason it still looked exactly the same when I tried to calibrate by disk though. I'm assuming there's something else turned on in the game mode that prevents a simple contrast/brightness calibration. I don't think it really matters either way, it just seemed strange.
post #6616 of 9713
OK, found what I'd read, but it was from HD TV Test RE the UK models of these TV's. So it may not be applicable...

"As with the VT50, the Panasonic TX-P50GT50B has a luminance cap in its [Professional] picture modes (the ones that offer the full range of calibration controls). Unlike the VT50, the GT50 managed to produce 90 cd/m2 of light with a 100% white windowed test patch, whereas the VT50 managed 80 cd/m2. We wonder if that has anything to do with the different screen filter, “Infinite Black Ultra”, on the VT50. The cheaper TX-P42ST50 can still produce brighter and slightly punchier images than both of them, though, hitting around 130 cd/m2 easily (we’re not sure if the 50″ ST50 is the same, but we’d guess that it is, seeing as the light output cap seems to be consistent with the inclusion of the “Professional” picture mode, compared to the ST50′s “True Cinema”). It’d be good if Panasonic could un-cap these modes with firmware updates; in the current state, raising the [Contrast] control is useless in the Professional modes and only serves to crush out whiter-than-white details in the video signal, without actually raising the light output of the panel by any real amount. The ST50′s [Contrast] control does crush whiter-than-white details if turned up fully, but does also increase panel light output.

On the TX-P50GT50, the [THX Cinema] mode’s [Contrast] control isn’t locked, and it behaves like the ST50 in this regard. That means that in the [THX Cinema] mode, we had no issues hitting 130 cd/m2, which is better for brighter rooms. However, video enthusiasts take note that the THX modes have no in-depth calibration controls (although since they’re pretty accurate, anyway, that might not be troublesome for most users – at least not when the plasma panel is new).

There is also a [THX Bright Room] mode, which some have suggested should basically act as a surrogate for ST50-style controllable light output. We don’t agree. While the THX Bright Room mode (which uses a combination of a very low gamma setting and high panel light output) works well in a sun-drenched room, it’s overkill for users who just want a brighter image in moderately-lit viewing environments, due to its very low gamma setting (which is fixed). If you engage this mode in a standard viewing environment, the picture will look very washed out. That’s not a criticism of THX; since it’s obvious that this mode was not designed for “normal” viewing environments (if there’s such a thing as “normal”!)."
post #6617 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post

OK, found what I'd read, but it was from HD TV Test RE the UK models of these TV's. So it may not be applicable...

"As with the VT50, the Panasonic TX-P50GT50B has a luminance cap in its [Professional] picture modes (the ones that offer the full range of calibration controls). Unlike the VT50, the GT50 managed to produce 90 cd/m2 of light with a 100% white windowed test patch, whereas the VT50 managed 80 cd/m2. We wonder if that has anything to do with the different screen filter, “Infinite Black Ultra”, on the VT50. The cheaper TX-P42ST50 can still produce brighter and slightly punchier images than both of them, though, hitting around 130 cd/m2 easily (we’re not sure if the 50″ ST50 is the same, but we’d guess that it is, seeing as the light output cap seems to be consistent with the inclusion of the “Professional” picture mode, compared to the ST50′s “True Cinema”). It’d be good if Panasonic could un-cap these modes with firmware updates; in the current state, raising the [Contrast] control is useless in the Professional modes and only serves to crush out whiter-than-white details in the video signal, without actually raising the light output of the panel by any real amount. The ST50′s [Contrast] control does crush whiter-than-white details if turned up fully, but does also increase panel light output.

On the TX-P50GT50, the [THX Cinema] mode’s [Contrast] control isn’t locked, and it behaves like the ST50 in this regard. That means that in the [THX Cinema] mode, we had no issues hitting 130 cd/m2, which is better for brighter rooms. However, video enthusiasts take note that the THX modes have no in-depth calibration controls (although since they’re pretty accurate, anyway, that might not be troublesome for most users – at least not when the plasma panel is new).

There is also a [THX Bright Room] mode, which some have suggested should basically act as a surrogate for ST50-style controllable light output. We don’t agree. While the THX Bright Room mode (which uses a combination of a very low gamma setting and high panel light output) works well in a sun-drenched room, it’s overkill for users who just want a brighter image in moderately-lit viewing environments, due to its very low gamma setting (which is fixed). If you engage this mode in a standard viewing environment, the picture will look very washed out. That’s not a criticism of THX; since it’s obvious that this mode was not designed for “normal” viewing environments (if there’s such a thing as “normal”!)."

The EU models are different.
post #6618 of 9713
Quick question. I'm about to purchase a movie. There is a 3D and non 3D version. My question is. If I purchase the 3D version does that mean I'll be forced to watch the movie in 3D every time I play it? Or will I still be able to enjoy the 2D version of it as well?
post #6619 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Quick question. I'm about to purchase a movie. There is a 3D and non 3D version. My question is. If I purchase the 3D version does that mean I'll be forced to watch the movie in 3D every time I play it? Or will I still be able to enjoy the 2D version of it as well?
Im sorry but Im really not sure.
post #6620 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Quick question. I'm about to purchase a movie. There is a 3D and non 3D version. My question is. If I purchase the 3D version does that mean I'll be forced to watch the movie in 3D every time I play it? Or will I still be able to enjoy the 2D version of it as well?

It depends on the movie. Which is it?

Some will have a 2D version and a 3D version...with the 3D version still having the 2D film in the case as well (either on a separate disc or on the same disc). Others will have a 2D version and a 3D version...but the 3D version will only have film in 3D.
Edited by HD-Master - 2/16/13 at 6:23pm
post #6621 of 9713
Avatar. Titanic. iRobot. A few others
post #6622 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Avatar. Titanic. iRobot. A few others

Avatar is 2D/3D on the same disc.
Titanic comes with a 2D disc and two 3D discs (the 3D version is split between two discs) in the same case.
I don't have I, Robot...checking on it now.

Update: I, Robot is 2D/3D on the same disc.
post #6623 of 9713
Pretty sure those come with a 2d version avatar does for sure
post #6624 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Quick question. I'm about to purchase a movie. There is a 3D and non 3D version. My question is. If I purchase the 3D version does that mean I'll be forced to watch the movie in 3D every time I play it? Or will I still be able to enjoy the 2D version of it as well?

They all have both a 2D and 3D version. At least everyone I have ever seen has. Some have seperate discs, some have a 2D/3D option on the same disc.
post #6625 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Quick question. I'm about to purchase a movie. There is a 3D and non 3D version. My question is. If I purchase the 3D version does that mean I'll be forced to watch the movie in 3D every time I play it? Or will I still be able to enjoy the 2D version of it as well?

They all have both a 2D and 3D version. At least everyone I have ever seen has. Some have seperate discs, some have a 2D/3D option on the same disc.

I could have sworn there were some that were 3D only, but I guess not. I can't find any.
post #6626 of 9713
This is my first post here!

I finally got a GT50 few weeks ago from BB for 1699 and I'm loving the picture! (But I just can't believe they are releasing the 60ST60 for $1699. Looks like the specs are the same or better than the GT50.)

But my settings is driving me crazy.
I got a Sony 3D blu-ray player BDP-S580, Sony HT-SS370, a TC-P60GT50 and a Harmony 650 Remote.
The problem is that my HT does not pass thru 3D from the BD Player, so the work around I found is to hook up a HDMI directly to the TV and a Digital Coaxial Audio Cable from the BD to the HT.
By doing so, I need to switch the input on HT to "video", but because it takes few seconds for the BD to fully turn on, the HT thinks that there's no audio signal from the "video" input so it switches to "TV" input to receive the audio from the TV ARC. Using the sound from the TV ARC I'm only receive 2 channels because the TV downgrade the signal, so I have to manually switch to "video" to get the full DTS 5.1 from the BD.
I could turn the ARC off, but by doing so I won't be able to use when I watch something on Viera Connect. I guess my only solution is to buy a new HT System. *sigh*
post #6627 of 9713
I remember that Toy Story Trilogy and Shrek 3D is a 3D only set.
post #6628 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by fabiosugitani View Post

I remember that Toy Story Trilogy and Shrek 3D is a 3D only set.

The 3D Toy Story BD's have both a 2D and a 3D disc in the case. The 3D Shrek BD's ARE actually 3D only...except for the fourth one which as both 2D and 3D on the same disc.
post #6629 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by fabiosugitani View Post

... so I have to manually switch to "video" to get the full DTS 5.1 from the BD... I guess my only solution is to buy a new HT System. *sigh*

I guess if you feel that a few button pushes on your AV receiver's remote is an unmanageable burden, then a complete HDMI 1.4 set-up may be an option. What about just powering on the BD player first ? Or leaving it on all the time so the outputs stay active ?

New components are always fun but calling it your "only solution" sounds like something I would tell my wife when we asked why UPS just delivered a 50 pound box.
post #6630 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Quick question. I'm about to purchase a movie. There is a 3D and non 3D version. My question is. If I purchase the 3D version does that mean I'll be forced to watch the movie in 3D every time I play it? Or will I still be able to enjoy the 2D version of it as well?
What 3D bluray player are you using?
On my Panasonic 3D Bluray Player when I start to play any 3D Bluray it comes up with a screen and asks me to select to play as 3D or 2D.
So its a function of the 3d Bluray player, not the TV.
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