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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 225

post #6721 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Yes, THX Cinema is a tad green out of the box. The solution is either to calibrate THX Cinema in the service menu or use Custom.

If THX Cinema (and THX Brightroom?) can be calibrated through the service menu, then why not use one of those as an alternate "Day" setting to complement "Night" setting in Custom instead of using an HDMI splitter for Day/Night? Is that just a preference or am I missing something? Maybe it wasn't even you that mentioned using a splitter but I thought it was.

I do use an HDMI splitter. I prefer the calibrated performance of Custom over THX Cinema. Just a personal preference.
post #6722 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I do use an HDMI splitter. I prefer the calibrated performance of Custom over THX Cinema. Just a personal preference.

Thanks. So custom mode actually has better results (when calibrated) than THX even if THX were to be calibrated? I've actually given Chad B a deposit and I think I have another month or so before he comes out and I'm just looking for the best (and possibly cheapest) way to get good Day/Night results. If I have to buy a splitter to make that happen I probably will but I think I'd prefer to try to get a calibrated THX Bright Room for my day setting since that would be used less anyway. Would that be OK do you think?
post #6723 of 9713
First off, I just wanted to say that I have been using your night settings HD-Master and they are excellent. I found the picture to be much sharper overall than the D-Nice settings. That could have something to do with me not following his procedure at all though. biggrin.gif

I found something out that pertains to your Day settings. I was recently testing some things myself, trying to get Game mode as accurate as your night settings. I noticed that contrast is actually capped on all the modes. I didn't test on Cinema or Vivid, but I did check the rest of them. On THX Bright Room, Custom, and Game, the contrast is all capped at 80. On THX Cinema the contrast is capped at 70. I didn't use any kind of equipment, but I used a number of different samples. The increase in brightness is easily noticeable going from 75-80, and 65-70, respectively. Anything farther than those points yielded absolutely no detectable change in brightness. So unless I'm way off, your day settings are only 2 contrast higher than your night settings.
post #6724 of 9713
Sh
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

Thanks. So custom mode actually has better results (when calibrated) than THX even if THX were to be calibrated? I've actually given Chad B a deposit and I think I have another month or so before he comes out and I'm just looking for the best (and possibly cheapest)
way to get good Day/Night results. If I have to buy a splitter to make that happen I probably will but I think I'd prefer to try to get a calibrated THX Bright Room for my day setting since that would be used less anyway. Would that be OK do you think?
Should have gone with Kevin miller. He calibrated my THX bright room as a day mode and the other as a night as previously mentioned. However he commented many times how the custom mode does NOT turn out better results when calibrated. HOWEVER, he went on to notice that the custom mode DOES produce a better 3D images when calibrated. I would contact tweak my tv and see what they have to say
post #6725 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Levine View Post

Sh
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

Thanks. So custom mode actually has better results (when calibrated) than THX even if THX were to be calibrated? I've actually given Chad B a deposit and I think I have another month or so before he comes out and I'm just looking for the best (and possibly cheapest)
way to get good Day/Night results. If I have to buy a splitter to make that happen I probably will but I think I'd prefer to try to get a calibrated THX Bright Room for my day setting since that would be used less anyway. Would that be OK do you think?
Should have gone with Kevin miller. He calibrated my THX bright room as a day mode and the other as a night as previously mentioned. However he commented many times how the custom mode does NOT turn out better results when calibrated. HOWEVER, he went on to notice that the custom mode DOES produce a better 3D images when calibrated. I would contact tweak my tv and see what they have to say

Given your history in this thread, I have serious doubts that Kevin Miller (or anyone else) performed a professional calibration for you.
post #6726 of 9713
It's the strangest thing...I think my set is becoming more prone to IR as it ages. lol Just yesterday, I was watching a Blu Ray disc and was at the menu for maybe a minute and after I hit Play, I saw the residual of the menu left behind. Same thing happens during the warning or ratings screens before previews. I've had this set about 9 months and I'd say I watch it at least once a day for an hour or more. I've put countless hours of MW3 and Black OPs 2.....I have no clue why it's so easily susceptible to IR like this?? I'm using HD-Masters settings BTW with the contrast at 76 and brightness at 54 because I'm in a really dark room tongue.gif
post #6727 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by TIME2PLAYDAGAME View Post

It's the strangest thing...I think my set is becoming more prone to IR as it ages. lol Just yesterday, I was watching a Blu Ray disc and was at the menu for maybe a minute and after I hit Play, I saw the residual of the menu left behind. Same thing happens during the warning or ratings screens before previews. I've had this set about 9 months and I'd say I watch it at least once a day for an hour or more. I've put countless hours of MW3 and Black OPs 2.....I have no clue why it's so easily susceptible to IR like this?? I'm using HD-Masters settings BTW with the contrast at 76 and brightness at 54 because I'm in a really dark room tongue.gif

It only takes a matter of seconds to get an after image on a dark background, but it fades shortly after. Shouldn't be anything to worry about, I'm guessing you just never noticed it? Whether or not that should go away completely in time or not I can't say, only had mine for a couple weeks. I don't have any issues with lasting IR even after hours of gaming, from logos, etc.
post #6728 of 9713
Is Verizon Fois HD actually any better PQ than Comcast HD?

I got a pretty good offer from Fois and they are trying to tell me the PQ will be better. They are both 1080i so i don't think so but...? Trying to figure out if I wan't to switch.
post #6729 of 9713
No, I wouldn't think so. But it depends on how much compression Fios uses versus the cable in your neighborhood.
post #6730 of 9713
I have FiOS now and to me, I can see a lil bit of a brighter, sharper image than Cablevision/Optimum. The picture never stutters or freezes. Internet speed and reliability is no contest...FiOS hands down! I got 25mbps down and 15mbps up package and no matter what time of day I run a speed test, I'm always 5-7mbps higher than what I'm supposed to be. The really good thing is the your line into your home is your line, your internet is not shared with the whole neighborhood. The main reason I made the switch though is the deal...I have every channel, 2 HD boxes, HD multi-room DVR, plus EPIX and NFL Redzone channels for my 2yr contract. Ooo and of course the phone. All for $142 and that's after taxes. When I'm close to the end of my 2yrs they said they will renew for 2 more yrs at the same cost. After 4yrs....it's up for grabs lol I was paying Optimum $192 for every channel(no Epix or NFL) and I had to pay for Premium OnDemand channels(FiOS they're included w/your channel subscription). I had 15mbps "speed boost" with them and it was crappy during peak hours. Anyways, I don't regret switching at all...Good luck with your choice. I'm done sounding like a FiOS salesman tongue.gif
post #6731 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by weedeater View Post

No, I wouldn't think so. But it depends on how much compression Fios uses versus the cable in your neighborhood.

I noticed the last time comcast came out to install a new box that the technician actually manually set the amount of compression on a service menu. Options were low,med.,high and he set it to high. So unless they are mandated to set it to a high compression setting, would trying to get the tech to set it lower actually help with PQ??
post #6732 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by TIME2PLAYDAGAME View Post

I have FiOS now and to me, I can see a lil bit of a brighter, sharper image than Cablevision/Optimum. The picture never stutters or freezes. Internet speed and reliability is no contest...FiOS hands down! I got 25mbps down and 15mbps up package and no matter what time of day I run a speed test, I'm always 5-7mbps higher than what I'm supposed to be. The really good thing is the your line into your home is your line, your internet is not shared with the whole neighborhood. The main reason I made the switch though is the deal...I have every channel, 2 HD boxes, HD multi-room DVR, plus EPIX and NFL Redzone channels for my 2yr contract. Ooo and of course the phone. All for $142 and that's after taxes. When I'm close to the end of my 2yrs they said they will renew for 2 more yrs at the same cost. After 4yrs....it's up for grabs lol I was paying Optimum $192 for every channel(no Epix or NFL) and I had to pay for Premium OnDemand channels(FiOS they're included w/your channel subscription). I had 15mbps "speed boost" with them and it was crappy during peak hours. Anyways, I don't regret switching at all...Good luck with your choice. I'm done sounding like a FiOS salesman tongue.gif

Ok thanks. They offered me the same deal, but wait do you get HBO too? That was the only thing not included.
post #6733 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

If THX Cinema (and THX Brightroom?) can be calibrated through the service menu, then why not use one of those as an alternate "Day" setting to complement "Night" setting in Custom instead of using an HDMI splitter for Day/Night? Is that just a preference or am I missing something? Maybe it wasn't even you that mentioned using a splitter but I thought it was.

My guess is because he is using a Harmony remote with activities for day and night. It is much easier to program the remote to select a "day" or "night" input vs programming it to go into the menu and change the picture mode.
post #6734 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASiani View Post

Thanks. So custom mode actually has better results (when calibrated) than THX even if THX were to be calibrated? I've actually given Chad B a deposit and I think I have another month or so before he comes out and I'm just looking for the best (and possibly cheapest) way to get good Day/Night results. If I have to buy a splitter to make that happen I probably will but I think I'd prefer to try to get a calibrated THX Bright Room for my day setting since that would be used less anyway. Would that be OK do you think?

Chad did my custom as a normal viewing mode and my thx bright room as a day mode. His custom calibration has proven to be versatile enough to be used all the time in my current situation. In fact he got enough light output on my custom that I could use that as a day mode and thx cinema as a night mode. Chad is really great about asking questions on what you want and he really caters specifically to your situation.
post #6735 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by acarney View Post

Is it not possible to have converted 2D -> 3D in Viera connect stuff? (Netflix/Hulu) Are you only able to use it with live TV or 2D bluray and DVDs? :sad:

Conversion works fine on YouTube; based on that, it does work in the Viera apps. I can't comment on any limitations that Netflix or Hulu placed in their apps because I don't use either. The conversion occurs after the signal is in the TV so I can't imagine why any signal from any source can't be converted. Every source I have ever tried gives me the standard 2D>3D format select or the 7 conversion options after keying the red button manual mode.
post #6736 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Custom settings do the exact same thing as the service menu settings no difference have you tried HD Masters custom settings most folks really like them. There is absolutely no reason to go in the service menu unless you are tweaking one of the thx modes and then only with a meter software and some knowledge.
That's just flat out false
post #6737 of 9713
Whats false about it besides the all cut and drive settings ? Granted service menu settings are done on a color temp basis but the drives and cuts work the same
post #6738 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

I noticed the last time comcast came out to install a new box that the technician actually manually set the amount of compression on a service menu. Options were low,med.,high and he set it to high. So unless they are mandated to set it to a high compression setting, would trying to get the tech to set it lower actually help with PQ??

I can see how "on-demand video" initiated by a request by your box could be provided at varying levels of quality / bandwidth but for normal "serves all" channels I don't think this setting would do anything.
post #6739 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

I can see how "on-demand video" initiated by a request by your box could be provided at varying levels of quality / bandwidth but for normal "serves all" channels I don't think this setting would do anything.

That makes sense
post #6740 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

Conversion works fine on YouTube; based on that, it does work in the Viera apps. I can't comment on any limitations that Netflix or Hulu placed in their apps because I don't use either. The conversion occurs after the signal is in the TV so I can't imagine why any signal from any source can't be converted. Every source I have ever tried gives me the standard 2D>3D format select or the 7 conversion options after keying the red button manual mode.

Hmm, I'll have to try again, mine wasn't doing anything...
post #6741 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Custom settings do the exact same thing as the service menu settings no difference have you tried HD Masters custom settings most folks really like them. There is absolutely no reason to go in the service menu unless you are tweaking one of the thx modes and then only with a meter software and some knowledge.
That's just flat out false

There is nothing you can do for Custom in the service menu that cannot also be done in the user menu.
post #6742 of 9713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

Is Verizon Fois HD actually any better PQ than Comcast HD?

I got a pretty good offer from Fios and they are trying to tell me the PQ will be better. They are both 1080i so i don't think so but...? Trying to figure out if I wan't to switch.

FIOS and Comcast both broadcast in 1080i as well as 720p - that's dictated by the individual broadcasters. I supposed it's possible that Comcast's HD signal in your area is capped at 720p, but that's not likely.

FIOS has better picture quality than ANY other TV service provider. In West Los Angeles the improvement compared to Comcast and Time Warner's PQ is massive. In Hermosa beach, the difference isn't as profound but is still way better. FIOS is virtually the same PQ as over the roof antenna. If i could get FIOS in my town i'd drop TWC in two seconds even if it were more money, and my TWC franchise has better PQ than any other TWC or Comcast network i've encountered when i compare it to my antenna.
post #6743 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

FIOS and Comcast both broadcast in 1080i as well as 720p - that's dictated by the individual broadcasters. I supposed it's possible that Comcast's HD signal in your area is capped at 720p, but that's not likely.

FIOS has better picture quality than ANY other TV service provider. In West Los Angeles the improvement compared to Comcast and Time Warner's PQ is massive. In Hermosa beach, the difference isn't as profound but is still way better. FIOS is virtually the same PQ as over the roof antenna. If i could get FIOS in my town i'd drop TWC in two seconds even if it were more money, and my TWC franchise has better PQ than any other TWC or Comcast network i've encountered when i compare it to my antenna.

Wow! Thanks Randy. Looks like I am gonna book my install.
post #6744 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Levine View Post

Sh
Should have gone with Kevin miller. He calibrated my THX bright room as a day mode and the other as a night as previously mentioned. However he commented many times how the custom mode does NOT turn out better results when calibrated. HOWEVER, he went on to notice that the custom mode DOES produce a better 3D images when calibrated. I would contact tweak my tv and see what they have to say

I don't know who's better than who and as long as I'm getting a professional to do it and not a rush job by the geek squad, I'm sure I'll be happy with the result. I've never had a professional calibration done and I'm really looking forward to my first time being on this set. I chose Chad B. because some other knowledgeable members mentioned that he does calibrations in my area on occasion so I went with it. So far, he has been very friendly and professional in communication exchages and had I been ready for him a little sooner, I would have caught him on his last trip out my way but I don't mind waiting as it will give my TV some more hours anyway. If for some reason I need an alternate, I appreciate the alternate recommendation....thanks
Edited by ASiani - 2/20/13 at 8:53pm
post #6745 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recstar24 View Post

Chad did my custom as a normal viewing mode and my thx bright room as a day mode. His custom calibration has proven to be versatile enough to be used all the time in my current situation. In fact he got enough light output on my custom that I could use that as a day mode and thx cinema as a night mode. Chad is really great about asking questions on what you want and he really caters specifically to your situation.

Thank you, this was helpful indeed. :-)
post #6746 of 9713
Keep in mind not all fiber optic TV systems are the same and that different areas can have different levels of service. The last time the Dish guy was out here, he was talking about all the AT&T Uverse customers he had that were switching. Another thing to consider is OTA which is free once you get the correct setup and that is much less compressed than most providers. Atlanta has between 40 and 60 OTA channels reserved or in use at any given time. Football OTA is just incredible. You need to change your TV's resolution to that provider's native resolution, Fox and ABC are 720p and CBS and NBC are 1080i. Otherwise you can get artifacts from your TV converting the signal.

You can get antenna info here http://www.antennaweb.org/Address.aspx and antennas can't be prohibited from being erected due to homeowner covenants, its illegal.
post #6747 of 9713
Should I be worried? eek.gif Lower right hand corner.



This is from watching 2 continuous hours of the History channel. My set is still fairly new, only around 250 hours old. Does this seem normal or is my set possibly defective? I have been under the impression that IR comes with the territory, but then others claim they have never had IR issues. I'm just not really sure what to believe here. That image was taken on a red slide, but it was easily visible on any light background watching normal content. After running content for 10+ hours it has all but disappeared. From close up, and on a red side, I can still make out parts of individual letters in the word "History", but it is too faint to easily be able to recognize the entire word. From a regular viewing distance I can't see anything at all on slides or regular content.

Edit: I also get IR from using the menu too frequently. Using it over and over comparing and contrasting settings will cause IR of the entire word "Menu" as well as some of the smaller lettering on the bottom. Even though the lettering is large and bright white, it still can't have been on screen for more than 10-15 minutes in total as a static image. After 15 hours of running static content I still have a faint but noticeable "M and e" remaining. This is probably the third time I have gotten IR just from the menu, but it does go away completely each time. If anything I'm just concerned with how quickly the TV gets IR. I assume it will become more IR resistant as it ages though, so I'm not ready to give up this amazing PQ just yet. I'm also not sure how I would return it. I got the TV from Paul's, who I hear isn't the easiest to work with, and I know for a fact they don't have any replacement GT50's.
Edited by JSpectre88 - 2/21/13 at 11:01am
post #6748 of 9713
probably a dumb question, but how are people doing 2 custom settings? like in hd-master post, he has one custom settings for day and one for night.
post #6749 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

It only takes a matter of seconds to get an after image on a dark background, but it fades shortly after. Shouldn't be anything to worry about, I'm guessing you just never noticed it? Whether or not that should go away completely in time or not I can't say, only had mine for a couple weeks. I don't have any issues with lasting IR even after hours of gaming, from logos, etc.

Do you really mean to say what you said? "...an after image on a dark background?" Don't you mean "an after image on a light/white background?" I have NEVER seen an afterimage on a darker image. Am I missing something? English can be a wonderful vehicle for communication...sometimes.eek.gif
post #6750 of 9713
Quote:
Originally Posted by unarmdragon View Post

probably a dumb question, but how are people doing 2 custom settings? like in hd-master post, he has one custom settings for day and one for night.

I don't know all the details, but it's something like this. You can have different settings for each input on your TV, so if you have an HDMI switch/(splitter?) then you simply change the input to go to your other settings. Again I'm not positive how it works, but HD-Master has explained he uses this method before.
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