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Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 239

post #7141 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by pyramus96 View Post

Hello all,

Thanks for all the info in this thread. I just ordered my GT50 65-inch, and now I'm trying to tackle the wall-mounting responsibilties (for the first time). I have read the discussions here (and elsewhere) about mounts, but I'm still a bit perplexed as to my "best" option.

In a moment of frustrated haste, I ordered this digicom mount a few days ago: Digicom Mount.

Looking back, however, I'm worried that it may sit out a bit too far from the wall (Amazon lists it at 3"). Also, I've seen no one really discussing this mount brand with the GT50, so I'm worried about compatibility/quality.

Now I'm looking at these two Sanus as a better solution (before hanging something on the wall that I hate): The VLT15 and the LL22. With the VLT I'm concerned about heat and clearance in the back. I've seen some positive comments about the LL22 here that make me comfortable with that one, but I wanted to know if there was any feedback on the VLT. Aesthetically, the closer to the wall the better, so if the VLT is a good option, I'd like to do that.

If it matters, I'm mounting through drywall into wood studs, standard construction.

Thank you for any thoughts, recommendations, suggestions, or explanations as to how all of my ideas are terrible.
I'm not familiar with the VLT or the digi mount. Compatability wise, Sanus has a tool on their website to cross reference which mount will work with which model TV. I have the LL22 and it is awesome! I have the 65gt50. With spacers you can increase the distance it sits off the wall. I used the next to smallest ones and the TV is exactly 3.25" off the wall total (from wall to front of tv). Looks like a picture hanging. The mount has a neato kick stand to make hooking it up a little easier. Emphasize "little" lol
post #7142 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdan View Post

I'm not familiar with the VLT or the digi mount. Compatability wise, Sanus has a tool on their website to cross reference which mount will work with which model TV. I have the LL22 and it is awesome! I have the 65gt50. With spacers you can increase the distance it sits off the wall. I used the next to smallest ones and the TV is exactly 3.25" off the wall total (from wall to front of tv). Looks like a picture hanging. The mount has a neato kick stand to make hooking it up a little easier. Emphasize "little" lol

In many situations a dedicated wall mount is not required. Save your cash and spend $12 on a four foot piece of 1 inch angled aluminum at Lowes. Cut it in half, drill appropriate holes, mount one piece to TV the other to the wall. Two 5/16 or 3/8 bolts and four nuts make up the attachment. Works quite well where a fixed position is required. I've mounted several like this; very clean, very streamlined and secure. Adjust metal gauge according to size/weight of TV.

Just another easy DIY in the right application.
post #7143 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

In many situations a dedicated wall mount is not required. Save your cash and spend $12 on a four foot piece of 1 inch angled aluminum at Lowes. Cut it in half, drill appropriate holes, mount one piece to TV the other to the wall. Two 5/16 or 3/8 bolts and four nuts make up the attachment. Works quite well where a fixed position is required. I've mounted several like this; very clean, very streamlined and secure. Adjust metal gauge according to size/weight of TV.

Just another easy DIY in the right application.
You can get a mount as low as $15. Works fine and no hassle of building a mount.

The only thing I'd say that would make mounting a tv easier to to go ahead and mount it to dry wall vs studs. Sometimes the spacing or location of the studs can be a pain. Get dry wall anchors and call it a day.
post #7144 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

In many situations a dedicated wall mount is not required. Save your cash and spend $12 on a four foot piece of 1 inch angled aluminum at Lowes. Cut it in half, drill appropriate holes, mount one piece to TV the other to the wall. Two 5/16 or 3/8 bolts and four nuts make up the attachment. Works quite well where a fixed position is required. I've mounted several like this; very clean, very streamlined and secure. Adjust metal gauge according to size/weight of TV.

Just another easy DIY in the right application.

Are you drilling holes through both angle pieces then installing bolts to secure the plasma in place? I'm sure it works fine an saves quite a bit of money. The Sanus mount I bought at Best Buy for under $60 is well worth it as it gives one flexability with horizontal placement (tilts as well). I can see the desire to save cash but when one is spending close to $2k for a plasma the added security of a dedicated wall mount is worth it IMO. There are a number of sturdy wall mounts from Monoprice for under $20.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sanus+-+Classic+Tilting+Wall+Mount+for+Most+32%22+-+63%22+Flat-Panel+TVs+-+Black/3025161.p?id=1218374264958&skuId=3025161

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828#1082812

Bill
post #7145 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

The only thing I'd say that would make mounting a tv easier to to go ahead and mount it to dry wall vs studs. Sometimes the spacing or location of the studs can be a pain. Get dry wall anchors and call it a day.

So you would forgo mounting a wall bracket to studs and mount it to sheetrock instead? How is that easier if wall studs can be used? I can understand using anchors if wall studs are not an option for a specific mounting location. But to suggest using sheetrock anchors at all times is actually more work and not as a secure installation.

Bill
post #7146 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

You can get a mount as low as $15. Works fine and no hassle of building a mount.

The only thing I'd say that would make mounting a tv easier to to go ahead and mount it to dry wall vs studs. Sometimes the spacing or location of the studs can be a pain. Get dry wall anchors and call it a day.

Some displays are getting downright light nowadays but you would definitely want the appropriate DW anchor. Some just wouldn't cut it. I've never "not" mounted where I couldn't grab two studs - but agree some applications could require otherwise.

JB360 and BMac,
Sure there are cheap mounts out there, I own a relatively cheap one holding my 54GT15 - I could have easily DIY'd that one as well yet we tilt that TV often depending on whether movie watching or having a stand up XBox kinect or Wii family battle. :-). I also have a full articulating mount that MSRP'd for $500 holding up my Pio Elite. My 60GT50 is actually on the stand - and no JB360, wall mounting wasn't the right application.... My other two displays have DIY mounts.

I didn't post to debate an idea for cost savings only, rather a store purchased mount is not the only option. Hanging a TV isn't rocket science. Whether a cheap or expensive mount, they are 75% of the time a one size fits all (the Omni mount behind my Elite is one exception). On my two displays as well as the other two I have mounted with friends this way, the one size fits all did not provide the aesthetics desired - expensive or not. As I originally stated, if the situation/application allows, extremely simple DIY can be beneficial. For example, the other two patio mounts I fabricated were less than $30 even with paint, min time to construct. The closest store mount capable of the application was over $80 and frankly would have looked hideous from the side where visible etc, and yes that is important to many.. :-). And regardless of my financial situation I am always up for a challenge.

BMac, on two DIY mounts what worked quite well was the angle aluminum pieces one on TV, one on wall - same orientation. Two slightly larger holes drilled about 15-18 inches apart in the piece on the wall. The 1.5 to 1.75 inch long 5/16 bolts go through in equal distant holes on the TV bracket pointing down. One nut on each, tight holding the bolt on the bracket. The second nut threaded all the way on loosely. This leaves you with an approx 1 to 1.25 inch shank remaining. You then just pick the TV up and slip the bolt shanks through the holes on the wall bracket. The loose/second nut is used to help level the panel if your brackets were a tad off etc. TV hangs there, very secure with a tad bit of angle - as close to the wall as the slimmest of mounts.

P.S - Bill, ironically I should own stock in Monoprice for the $1000s I have spent there over the years. I almost purchased one of their mounts yet wanted the clean look of my DIY idea - and yes my fabricated mount cost me more...

Sorry for my semi off topic ramble..


Cheers
Edited by KJSmitty - 3/1/13 at 3:50pm
post #7147 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Move to LED. Sets aren't meant to take slides. Let alone a white slide to check for anything. Let alone buzz. Move to led and be done with it.

As for your stand. Wal mounting is the best and easier solution. I don't know what anyone wouldn't wall mount a set. It's not like people don't place their tv directly infront of a wall to begin with. So mount it right where it is. Height and all. Use the stand for your components. Wall mounts can be super cheap and save space. Plus it just makes everything look that much better.

Speak for yourself. This television is in 10x20 media room with a sliding accordion wall on one 20' side, a media closet on one 10' side, a window on the other 10' side and putting it on the other 20' side is impossible because there is no way to arrange the furniture so I could sit in front of the TV. Trust me, I would rather have it on the wall but there are literally 2 walls in my entire 1200 sq ft condo that could be used to mount a 60" TV, one of them already has a TV mounted on it and the other has my bed up against it. I don't even have a wall I could put a TV stand up against. The entire place is open with windows and walls that jut out unevenly. I am putting this TV in this room because I can control the light, the window has a dark shade and the sliding wall can be closed to seal it off from the rest of the place.

I have the stand 18" out from in front of the media closet. The TV is about 30" away from the closet on the stand and 8' away from the seating and the closet itself is black to provide a fairly nice backdrop. I have no problems with where the TV is. Regardless, I highly doubt it being on the stand is the cause of the buzzing or that mounting it on a wall would all of a sudden cure the problem.

I don't want an LED, I tried it, it was inferior in every possible way to this TV. Not sure why that is the recommendation. I'm not some rookie at this coming here begging for help on what TV to buy, every TV I have owned in the last 7 years has been a plasma. I strayed and tried an LED for 20 days before taking it back because of pathetic uniformity issues and the fact that it couldn't handle motion. Why would I want an LED?

It has nothing to do with the slides either, I did not run slides for "break-in" nor do I have any interest in wasting a week doing so. A TV is meant for watching, not lighting up a room with colors. I put the slides on USB to check for any problems with the screen when it was delivered, pixel problems, cracks I may have missed, etc. Hadn't touched them since. I noticed the buzzing during the first real world content I displayed on the TV after I put it on the stand, with the sound on. I verified it with a blu-ray I knew to have quick cuts between bright and dark and could still hear it with the sound at 20 and those weren't even quiet scenes. The slides were used to confirm it and determine just how dark it has to get before it stops, I could still hear buzzing on the darkest gray slide. That's how bad it was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

If this happened to me I would try loosening the mounting screws (one or two threads) on the back of the tv, just to see if that has any impact on the buzz.

That was my first thought as well since it happened right after I tightened everything a second time. Went back, loosened all the screws but still have intense buzzing. It isn't even just one "white" screens, it is pretty loud on just about any bright screen including the red and green test slides and any "outdoor" daylight scene in a show or movie.

Oh well, disappointing but Amazon is going to ship a replacement out and take this one away next week so we'll see what happens. Hopefully that one is solid. I was perfectly fine with the little buzzing I had with it on the floor in the center of the room, my cable box and PS3 both drowned it out on even the brightest of scenes and any sound washed it out completely. This new buzz was overwhelming and seemed to come from all parts of the TV, left, right and center.
post #7148 of 9030
Great idea KJ. If you're handy. There are many out there who are not though. I'm a contractor and could have built a doozy! Will consider your idea next time smile.gif
post #7149 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdan View Post

Great idea KJ. If you're handy. There are many out there who are aren't.

Very true. I'm transforming a coworker at this very moment.. biggrin.gif. Finishing up a media room above his detached garage. I'm not sure if he ever put a screw in wood prior.. And sometimes regardless of cost the ease of the purchased product beats the the hassle of the alternatives. biggrin.gif

Cheers
post #7150 of 9030
Damnit- Cartoon Network got me. Kids watched 1 movie and now the logo has been there for three days. Faded a bit the first day but any solid color and the distinct outline is there.
post #7151 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoHarmony View Post

Damnit- Cartoon Network got me. Kids watched 1 movie and now the logo has been there for three days. Faded a bit the first day but any solid color and the distinct outline is there.
1 moving causing 3 days of IR? Hmm
post #7152 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerPower25 View Post


That was my first thought as well since it happened right after I tightened everything a second time. Went back, loosened all the screws but still have intense buzzing. It isn't even just one "white" screens, it is pretty loud on just about any bright screen including the red and green test slides and any "outdoor" daylight scene in a show or movie.

Oh well, disappointing but Amazon is going to ship a replacement out and take this one away next week so we'll see what happens. Hopefully that one is solid. I was perfectly fine with the little buzzing I had with it on the floor in the center of the room, my cable box and PS3 both drowned it out on even the brightest of scenes and any sound washed it out completely. This new buzz was overwhelming and seemed to come from all parts of the TV, left, right and center.

Good luck, I hope you get a good one this time.
post #7153 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoHarmony View Post

Damnit- Cartoon Network got me. Kids watched 1 movie and now the logo has been there for three days. Faded a bit the first day but any solid color and the distinct outline is there.

Wow, my son watches that channel or other cartoon channels all day long and I've never had IR on logos. That must suck, but don't worry it will go away.
post #7154 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Good luck, I hope you get a good one this time.

Thanks. I was pretty bothered by it overnight but Amazon was great about rectifying the problem so we'll see how it goes next Wednesday. If it came down to it, I could work around the issue because I love the TV that much. But I wanted to give a replacement a shot. I've played around with it quite a bit tonight and with my wide accordion wall open to my living room and kitchen, I could hear the buzzing over the running dishwasher 25 feet away on bright scenes and THX Cinema mode. As long as the next one isn't as bad or worse, I'll be good with it.

I've been very pleased with the way the TV has held up to gaming. I figured since the replacement was on the way anyway, I might as well run it through its paces with video games and see if IR ever showed up. It has taken a few hours straight to see anything at all, usually scoreboards/tickers in the corners, only visible on a light, solid screen and never during content and its gone almost immediately. Really encouraging since I do game a lot and some sports games (Madden, NCAA, NBA 2K) have some pretty harsh contrasting scoreboard graphics.

Keeping my fingers crossed.
post #7155 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpl20 View Post

Just got my 65" GT50 and love it, playing with the settings a little bit trying to get the colors to pop a little more than they did out of the box, everything is perfect except for a slight buzz on a white screen, not extreme, not over the dialog like I read, you only kind of hear it with the tv muted and replay the white screen and are trying to hear it, I don't think it's of much concern, at least I hope. I also read somewhere that that someone had that buzz go away with time, but that was the only time I saw that anywhere. I'm think that a couple thing might contribute as well, the size, (65" might be louder than a 50"?), it is mounted on a wall, & in a big room with hard wood floors and 9' ceilings. So I guess the two things are; what do you guys do to make the colors really POP & then the whole buzz thing.........THANKS!

BTW, found these settings and like them the best so far, the only difference is I upped the sharpness to 20:

Custom Picture Mode
Contrast +80 to +85
Brightness +57
Color +51
Tint +3
Sharpness 0
Color Temp: Normal
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Color Space: Normal
W/B High R 0
W/B High G +1
W/B High B -6
W/B Low R -18
W/B Low G -25
W/B Low B -7
Black Extension 0
Gamma Adjustment 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black level: Light

bump
post #7156 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpl20 View Post

bump
All of those things you listed can make the buzzing more noticeable. If it is acceptable to you then thats all that matters.
post #7157 of 9030
Has anyone here used the pixel protector disc screen washes on this set? They have a nice one that simulates white noise. I was just curious because I have the disc and was wondering if anyone here had tried it for break in or IR issues.
post #7158 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP33 View Post

Has anyone here used the pixel protector disc screen washes on this set? They have a nice one that simulates white noise. I was just curious because I have the disc and was wondering if anyone here had tried it for break in or IR issues.
I havent personally used one but some people have said they work ok for ir. Cant remember anyone using one for break in.
post #7159 of 9030
Hello everyone.

Yes I'm a newbie to this forum and the proud owner of a P60GT50 which arrived last Saturday. I've been running the slides to age the phosphors, avoiding Fox News Channel, watching full screen content. I'm sure this question has been asked to death, so please forgive me for asking again, but is there a simple way of gauging the total hours on the unit?
post #7160 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpl20 View Post

bump

You indicate the buzz can only be heard when the sound is dead, a white screen is on, and you intentionally listen for it. This is not a problem. Someone just said their set can be heard 25 feet away over the noise from their dishwasher; that is another story altogether.

As far as pop goes, try HDmaster's wide color settings (just go back a few pages) I'm not sure who's settings you have listed; most of the numbers are usually similar. The low red and low green seem pretty negative ?
post #7161 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by SFabozzi View Post

Hello everyone.

Yes I'm a newbie to this forum and the proud owner of a P60GT50 which arrived last Saturday. I've been running the slides to age the phosphors, avoiding Fox News Channel, watching full screen content. I'm sure this question has been asked to death, so please forgive me for asking again, but is there a simple way of gauging the total hours on the unit?

No, but you can pull the info out of the service menu.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1123534/accessing-panasonic-service-menu
post #7162 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagSec 4 View Post

Hi all. I am currently using hd's day settings and i have a question if i change the rgb range from standard 16-235 to nonstandard 0-255 will it impact his settings in any way? I game on this tv 100% of the time and i know games use full range rgb so i want to get the best picture possible. His wide color range settings are perfect because (to my knowledge) it extends the color gamut and makes the gradient smoother and games benefit from this since they are 0-255.

I find the brightness of the panel changes. It gets brighter on nonstandard for me which washes out the colour.

I don't think 'auto' works for the hdmi for the rgb range.

I don't know what the best thing to do is, but I would guess you would need to calibrate it on nonstandard to not have this problem.
post #7163 of 9030
I also notice a change in brightness for 48hz vice 60hz.

I couldn't watch 48hz at first, but if I am in a black dark room, it seems ok to me know.
Edited by ser_renely - 3/2/13 at 8:38am
post #7164 of 9030
I've had my 65gt50 for a few weeks now, having a tech come this Wed. to calibrate it...but what I can't figure out is why 3d is so pathetic when I've read reviews that raved about how good it is...I have an oppo 103 bd player and have a few 3d blurays, avatar, hugo, green lantern, avengers. So is there a setting that'll help or am I just screwed in expecting ok 3d on a home set? The quality of picture on the THX settings is amazing and I can't wait to have it pro calibrated to see how much better it can get, but wtf to do about the horrible 3d? when there's text in 3d it's like 2 or 3 lines of the same text on top of each other...no popping out of the screenof 3d images..
post #7165 of 9030
Have your tech calibrate the 3d as well. I had chad b calibrate my 2d which made the sucky 3d really obvious. Suffice to say he's coming back to do my 3d smile.gif

Thx3d is ok just really dim 48hz helps a little. Chad b's custom 2d on mine looks great so I'm excited to have him get the 3d up to par.
post #7166 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I havent personally used one but some people have said they work ok for ir. Cant remember anyone using one for break in.

OK good to know. They have 3 washes on the disc, I guess they couldn't hurt if I run into any IR.
post #7167 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP33 View Post

OK good to know. They have 3 washes on the disc, I guess they couldn't hurt if I run into any IR.
It cant hurt.
post #7168 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by gajenn View Post

I've had my 65gt50 for a few weeks now, having a tech come this Wed. to calibrate it...
I get nervous anytime an anonymous tech is referred to in a post. I hope your tech is someone with good references and not one of the BB hit and miss herd. eek.gif
post #7169 of 9030
Hey guys, a question about 3D settings. I tried HD-Master's settings and they seemed incredibly dark. I compared them to his night settings, which I normally use, and there was no comparison. I had to do a lot of tweaking and I finally got something that looked pretty nice, but these settings are sort of extreme. Just wondering if these could possibly right or if I must have screwed up somewhere. I believe it might have something to do with using Samsung glasses. When they are turned on, they can easily double as sunglasses.

Custom Mode

Contrast - 100
Brightness - 50
Color - 50
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0
Color Temp. - Normal

Pro Settings

Gamma - 1.8
Backlight - High
AGC - 15
post #7170 of 9030
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I get nervous anytime an anonymous tech is referred to in a post. I hope your tech is someone with good references and not one of the BB hit and miss herd. eek.gif
lol Understood but he is getting a calibration not having a baby! smile.gif
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