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David,
I've been working my way through the Audax HT speaker thread and it's disappeared! Did it grow too big and crash of its own weight? If it's still around somewhere, I'd appreciate directions.
Thanks,
Mike

Have a question regarding interconnects or cables concerning video. I have this discussion all the time with associates of mine and would like your opinion. Which is recommended for component video, RG6 or RG59. I say RG6 especially for runs longer then 20'. Appreciate feedback

RG59 is good for 750', RG6 for 1000'. RG6 is havier (gage) than 59 and more inmiune to noise do to the thicker braid (95%).

Hi I'm new to this and am hoping I'm posting this question in the right spot. Just got the Onkyo HT-S780 (HTIB). I don't have it out of the box yet but am wondering if it's possible to hook my computer in with the Onkyo, tv, vcr? My computer has a lot of music on it and it seems logical to me to play the music through the Onkyo instead of the computer speakers. Any thoughts, advice, direction would be most appreciated! Thanks.

Hi!
I'm totally new to this and am not sure where to go to ask my question.
I just received a poloroid under cabinet dvd/tv. I know there are models that offer a speaker system to hook up to a telelphone. mine does not.
I was wondering if anyone knows how I could do this through the audio jacks.
any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you
edestio

a very simple and cheap fix to your problem would be to go to a radio shack and but a connector to convert the headphone out of your pc to left and right(white and red) rca cables. then plug them into and unused input of the onkyo. getting video is a little tricky and depending on your pc theres a few options. a video card being the best.

I need some help, I have built a home theatre and its really not what I hoped for. I read at least a thousand reviews and saved my money for months. I sold a pool table to clear out the room. The pool table had been in the family for over 30 years, so this was a big deal for me. I bought a used Optoma H79 with 390 hours on it. It came with a new sealed in the box replacement bulb. I bought a grey screen reading that it helped contrast, and thinking I would have all the brightness and color I wanted. The colors are very washed out all though the picture is very clear and not distorted or fuzzy. I used a 12 foot RGB cable of good quality and have tried another just for comparision, looked identical. It is ceiling mounted and is focused and fills out the screen well. The blues are terrible, I can't get a blue sky even though I know the projector is capable. On the warm up screen which I'm sure comes off of an internal chip it has a good bright blue and a sharp bright red script. All sky sceens off of the DVD's are a greyish color and all the colors look very dull. I am using an inexpensive JVC XV-M555 three disc player. My sound is through a Sony DA 3000 ES and rocks, it is not an issue. I'm using a hundred inch screen and have great control over ambient lighting and can get the room darker than any theatre I've ever been into. I was expecting vivid colors because of the reviews and not using an overly large screen and the good light control. A friend showed me the THX set up features on a DVD and after going through its setup I did get the best picture I've had, although it was very dark and I had to bump up the brightness which immediatly washes out the color bumping up contrast a little helps off set it, but at best the color sucks. I'm really having a hard time justifying the money spent to my wife. I tried the other bulb and it was no better, which I expected as the original had less than 400 hours on it. I have not tried the S-Video or the serial port as I was told the RGB was best. Where am I going wrong or do I expect to much? I thought I would get at least get close to theatre video quality. Is something wrong with the projector or the operator? I have unbelievably great sound with a mix of speakers, Sony fronts, Polk Audio centers and a pair of old 15"Fishers in the rear with another pair of 15"Jensons for subs coming off of a seperate 700W Fisher amp driven off of the Sony's pre-amp. Sorry guys I had to brag about something seeing as the video sucks. Open for suggestions and comments. Easy on me I'm and old dude. I put most of this in another section and got slapped and told I was in the wrong area. Hope this works out a little better. I need to add that I have spent days in the adjustment and advanced settings and have gotten very familiar with the remote and setup proceedure.

Randy

Randy; sorry to hear about your not so good experience with your imaging. You should be able to dial in the color unless you have an ambient light issue. I suggest that you (borrow) try another DVD player or better yet try a high def source such as a HD-DVD, BlueRay, D-VHS or some sort of high def cable or Sat system and see what changes in your image, get an Avia calibration/set up disc and or better yet contact an ISF calibrator and get a second opinion. I have been doing set up for several years, I appriciate a friends less frustrated set of eyes when it comes to my own system.
esjerry

First let me give you my system components:
Mitsubishi HC5000 HD 1080P projector
Vutec Lectric 1 92" motorized white matte screen
Sony Str-DA5200ES a/v receiver
Playstation3
HTPC Silverstone LC 10
Escient Fireball
Sony DVP-CX777ES
Panasonic TC-32LX700 LCD display
Gefen 1:2 HDMI Splitter
Genesis MX-900 Remote
2 Martin Logan Dynamo Subs
6 Polk LCi In-Wall speakers (3 LC80i's and 3 rear LC60i's)
1 DCH3416 HD Dual Tuner DVR Comcast
Satellite feed input on channel 3 thru Panasonic TV

POLTERGEIST SCREENS-display of white noise

Of course tons of wiring but hence the problem is when switching from sources I get "poltergeist screens" and when changing channels on the cable box. This frustrates me. Is it the splitter? What should I do? It never happens when I'am using the HTPC or the PS3 when surfing the web. Only when viewing source material ie., cable, dvd, tv, which involves switching. Help! It has to be the splitter. Right?

Any suggestions, short of a hammer, on how to get my DVD player to eject the disc? The eject button will not operate the tray at all and there is a disc stuck inside.

I'm new to the concept of forums. Hope I'm doing this correctly. If I'm in the wrong place, can you tell me where to go, Ha Ha!
I have cable tv now. 1 HD box, 1 Std box. The boxes sends out signals on channel 94 for HD and 92 for std signal. So diff tvs throughout the house can view shows by setting tv to 92 or 94 and change cable channels with a system of IR repeaters. I'm unhappy with HD cable quality and price is getting out of hand. I've been looking into DISH or DIRECT TV. Cheaper, more channels, hopefully better quality. Can the signal from a Sat box be distributed on a designated channel like I've got now with cable. Ultimately I'd like to feed 5-7 tvs and be able to watch diff programs at same time. I'm aware that I will need an individual tuner for each distinct channel sent out from the sat tuner box on a channel (92, 60, 94, 74 etc.). Will I need a different method of splitting the signal and distributing it?
Thanks Jeff

I would create a new topic/thread by hitting the "new thread" button at the top left while you're in the tweaks section.
go here to create the topic, its the same url you'd be sent to if you clicked the button.

Ive been using a 12v Kicker monoblock car amp and and a polk dxi12" car sub as the .1 in my bedroom surround set up... I've been using computer PSU power supply to power the amp... The RMS Rating of the PSU is equally matched to the RMS rating of the Kicker amp... The issue I have is that the PROTECT light on the amp is constantly blinking which is indication of low voltage...Is there any way in which I could better power a DC amp in such a setting? The only thing I think could be the issue is the + and - wires coming from the PSU are very thin about a 22-24 gauge ... The setup has ran fine for 2 months now but I just know that it's not operating at it's true potential ... If anybody has any thoughts or advise it'd be greatly appreciated

Computer power supplies are designed for a more linear (constant) load. The dynamics of a sound system power amplifier can seriously strain the power supply. I would suggest a well filtered linear power supply. These are quite similar to most power supplies in traditional audio equipment in that they use a large transformer full wave rectification, excellent filtering and regulation. These are available as enclosed bench top power supplies or as open frame supplies designed for mounting INSIDE a protective enclosure. The reason is that numerous contacts and connection points are exposed and easily can provide a short circuit or a shock.