Distance to mount projector in new construction

you know about throw ratio right? that will tell you what the projector capable of (or, rather what projectors the room design will work with).

if ceiling height is very high then it probably doesnt matter, but most prefer no potential visual obstructions so behind the viewers is best. you can probably get away with directly above the viewers in most cases if fan noise is not an issue.

you either need to start with a projector and see if it fits your room, OR calculate exactly where you want it in your room and seating positions then see which projectors fit the room.

seating ration of about 1:1 and throw ratio of about 1.5-2:1 seem to be most common.

all ratios are relative to screen size....

so for a 120" screen, you want to sit 120" away (1:1 ratio).

a 1.5:1 throw ratio for a 120" screen means you want the projector 180" away (15ft), 2:1 = 20 ft...etc.

the limiting factor for a big screen is obviously light output, and you definitely dont want the projector in front of you (so at least more than 1:1 throw ratio is what you want)..

some people feel like 1:1 is too close to sit, so you need to see what feels best for you....keep in mind that sitting farther away decreases your eyes effective resolution of the screen (ie, just pulling numbers out of my arse, but from 20ft away 1080p and 480i look the same on a 60" screen -- totally random numbers for an example, definitely not accurate)....follow?

there are numerous calculators for all of this online, they may seem daunting at times, but just work with it and fiddle and it will start to make sense.

16 ft is too far as mentioned. I would put the seat backs at 13. for the Panny I would put the lens at 15 ft from the screen for maximum brightness but behind the seating. You need to figure out what to do with the 7 extra feet in the room. More seating? desk facing the screen?

Buy your projector and shine it on a blank wall, then decide your screen size, viewing distance and mounting location.

If you can't decide in advance and if the joists in the ceiling run the length of the room, you could put a long HDMI cable(s), Romex and what ever else you want to run to the projector to cover the range of distances being considered in the joist cavity. Once the room is drywalled and you can try out the projector then cut a hole in the ceiling at the appropriate distance and pull the wires out. Cut the romex to the proper length and place it in an old work box and run the HDMI into the projector.

Greg

Don't forget the extra blocking for all potential projector locations, What Greg says is right on target with putting up Romex along the entire path then reach up and grab it. However the joists can actually run either way. Just cut hole in the joists and string the romex loosely. As for the HDMI you can put up a conduit and reach in and cut it and pull in your cables later.

I have my Panasonic PT-AE400U sitting 22 feet from the screen and it looks beautiful. I also have a light controlled room - it is in a basement with one window which has a blackout blind on it.

For the extra blocking, I put up one layer of 1/2 inch OSB, green glue, then a second layer of drywall. I can mount anything I want anywhere I want.

Ditto but I am just over 20 ft.

Consider each end of your projector's zoom and the impact on the picture contrast and brightness.

If you mount it with the lens wide open, you'll get a brighter picture but if you mount it at the other end of the focal length, you'll lose brightness - but gain contrast. So, if you're pushing to the edge of your units amount of light it can put out, mount it as close as possible to the screen.

Consider each end of your projector's zoom and the impact on the picture contrast and brightness.

If you mount it with the lens wide open, you'll get a brighter picture but if you mount it at the other end of the focal length, you'll lose brightness - but gain contrast. So, if you're pushing to the edge of your units amount of light it can put out, mount it as close as possible to the screen.