LG PA70G LED 1280x800 700 Lumens. - Page 62

I was replying to the guy who was asking about the Pro8200 and the LG. The LG is a freaking MARVEL but it stil doesn't measure up in brightness to a lamp Based projector. If you watch HD programming in an enviroment that has ambient light the lamp based is the way to go. here is comparison of two LED projectors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyp_mKJOnto

The difference in brightness is noticable. The lamp based projedtor is about two steps higher than the Pa70G. Thats ALL I was trying to say.

Bohanna

I've got your point, only that comparing the projectors with different lumen ratings and different in technology is out of context.

I seriously don't know what you guys are talking about, I watch my LG with a lamp on in my room and I can still see it clear as day.

The difference in brightness is noticable. The lamp based projector is about two steps higher than the Pa70G. Thats ALL I was trying to say.

Bohanna[/quote]




Ok, for the sake of friendly discussion, I'll agree that the lamp based projector is more brighter than PA70G, but good for how many hours? Don't you think?

What they are talking about is the fact that most current (and many previous) lamp based projectors are brighter than the PA70G, this is not a knock on the PA70G since it is understood it is an inexpensive LED based projector.

Jason

Yes im sorry for my first raging about it cause of my fault for not being able to set it up correctly. Its not that easy for everyone tho i guess. And i got an early build which can NOW after this EDID Override + focus fix, give me a perfectly sharp picture i couldnt see before.

So even if you got an earlier build - by doing the easy focus fix with these 2 screws (if you got a slightly unfocused unit) - the result will not differ from a later build i think.
My problem was that i couldnt feed the projector with the proper resolution vs aspect ratio and got a not 98-100% sharp image cause of that. The DMD chip maybe doesnt like to compress 16:10 or 4:3 resolution to 16:9 which results in a significant loss in sharpness. It also doesnt like other resolutions than 1280x720 in 16:9 mode or 1280x800 in full mode. So feeding it a 1920x1080 or any other resolution also results in sharpness issues.

For example when i feed it with 1280x720p from the PC before and pressing the middle button on the remote it still says 1280x800p. If i feed it with 1280x800p its saying 1080p... i think the firmware is not that good in this projector when it comes to resolutions and aspect ratios or its the chip. Also if i use 24hz for movies it was not all the time fluent but stuttering sometimes which was very annoying. If i feed it with 60hz it was somehow eyestraining and also not as sharp as now and way less smooth specially in action scenes with 120hz now.

Check if the just scan+proper resolution from the source is available or if there is 16:9 720p (no hz) enabled when pressing the middle button on the remote. Thats the only 2 modes where the sharpness is at 98-100%. If you got the EDID Override it says 1280x720p@120hz.

Another possibility to check the different sharp/unsharp modes is to set it to 1280x720p@50hz in the nvidia controls. This will give you a very much stuttering picture but lets you see a perfectly sharp picture without the EDID Override Mod. So you can see the differences before or without doing the Mod. For me setting it to 50hz allowed me to feed the 1280x720 resolution but not with 60hz or 24hz. Dont ask me why.

Good Luck to you all!


Edited by thomask1979 - 2/26/13 at 2:32am

I've got an Acer H5360 and will continue to use that as my main projector but I'm going to pickup the PA70G for a few reasons. 1) structured light scanning using david laserscanner 2) experimentation with building a DIY DSI multi-touch screen and 3) using it in my room on occasion. Hopefully I'll be joining you fellas shortly as an owner if Frys will hurry up and get to putting on a sale.

Awesome, didn't know the projector can handle 1280x720@120Hz

I added a custom resolution, unplugged the projector and plugged it in again and was able to select 1280x720@120Hz
No more RBE

The only problem is that all the Picture settings are now disabled. Only 'Apect Ratio' and 'Enery Saving' options are available.

Yes you have to set it to 1280x720@50hz and set it up then switch back to 120hz. And yeh i forgot to say no more RBE at 120hz!

Congratz
Edited by thomask1979 - 2/26/13 at 10:48am

Try and think of it this way. ,,,, The LGPA70 is like one of the little smart cars that gets great milage,, is cheap to operate and fun to drive The Lamp projectors are like the family car that you use when you want comfort. For 499.00 delivered you never have to worry about blowing a lamp and you can take it on the road. If it was about 50% brighter and had a Zoom lens it would really be one totally kick ass projector!!

Bohanna
Edited by Bohanna - 2/26/13 at 4:36pm

Thanks again thomask1979for a quick guide on selecting the LCD Projector.But Now I am more confused than ever.What I had gathered from the net earlier appeared to have a single most obvious problem with the LCD projectors was the Screen Door effects,but as You pointed out the problems are not as simple and not a singular one.I think I will stick with the LG PA70G as its not possible here to return the set after you have purchsed it.
Though Time and my own laziness permitting,I may go to New Delhi and see for myself whether the cheaper set is worth something or not.Thanks again.

I think for the price you really can't go wrong with the PA70G. For me the lamp life is priceless, my son has been watching cartoons on it all day and he loves it. I probably wouldn't let him do so with. 2,000 dollar Epson or something. So far I love it and I'm getting a lot of good use out of it. I might pick up the new BenQ once it comes down in price a bit and I get a dedicated theater room, but I am really enjoying the LG. It's bright enough and 90 percent of the content I watch is 720p so that doesn't bother me. I play a lot of games to and there isn't any noticeable lag, the only things I don't like about is the black levels kind of suck but I doubt you'll get much better in the price range. Placement is a pain but it didn't take me more that an hour to find a good spot for it.

I would definetly go for the PA70G if you are using it on a PC/HTPC/Notebook or any other source where you can set the resolution to true 720p natively specially at 120hz. The Acer K330 and Egate cant. The screendoor effect on LCD panel projection is not really visible at 110"+ from proper distance of 3m+ remembering me using the SP-F10M which had a lower resolution than the Egate. So it would have even less screendoor effect. But considering you get a probably brighter (marketed specs vs real specs), 120hz and so rainbow effect free DLP (contrast/black+) with the PA70G makes it nearly obsolete to go for LCD anymore. Even if the PA70G is 100$ more than the Egate it is definetly worth it.

You only have to set it up correctly under windows. If you have an ATI graphics card you need to configure it in the Catalyst Center i guess and for NVIDIA in the Control Panel. All guides and files are in this thread to get it working at 100% performance (sharpness/120hz/resolution).

Without this thread i would still sit infront of an unsharp 1000$ PA70G for the next year so thanks to all here contributing for free!
Edited by thomask1979 - 2/28/13 at 2:43am

FYI I have found the blacks to be more of a deep gray like in lamp based projectors, The blues are more of a dark aqua and there is an overall slight red tint when trying to set fleshtones. Over all the colors are more saturated than in my LCD projector. No matter what I do I can't get the bright white screen that I am used to on a 110 inch screen. This is not a complaint . I LOVE the PA70. But for home theatre use I like the Sanyo Lamp based projector. The PA70 will allow people to extend the life of their lamp Based projectors for much longer

Bohanna

True the colors were much better and white was white on my Samsung SP-F10M LCD/3LED Combo. But i still prefer my PA70G now that i have the correct settings . The flaws are acceptable until there will be the next step in LED projectors which will take some time cause every company wants to make money with bulbs as long as possible. Since theres no real pressure by the customers its just like with gas/oil vs solar/eco energy.

The color shiftings are coming from the convergence or CA whatever you want to call it. It makes the white not really reddish but more purple and the black a tad greenish/blueish.
Its not a fault of the technology i think its poor QA and quality of material used. For example plastic lenses.... Until better companys are going into the LED direction like EPSON or JVC etc we wont see any better quality. But i find it ok to use the PA70G meanwhile.

As I stated previously these are not reference displays (not that anyone has that expectation) but much of what you guys are complaining about can be calibrated away.

There are certain aspects that would require an outboard CMS to fully correct (mainly green saturation) but these units can get pretty close to D65/6500k/2.2 gamma when properly calibrated.

Obviously it would be great if they were better out of the box but sadly that is not the case. There are some factory pre-sets that yield reasonable results without a full CMS calibration (for those that are not videophiles this is likely to be more than acceptable IMHO).

Jason

How do you calibrate this projector without a CMS?

really dont want to return this projector but im having a hell of a time getting a good picture out of it

the colors either seem dull or i dont know the word, too bright? can not seem to get a natural looking picture no matter what i set it on or play with the picture settings..

for what i do most, which is playing xbox 360 or watching netflix/hulu on the 360, the picture is just plain no good. i keep playing with the focus trying to make it sharper, but it never really happens. it seems evenly focused, just never really can get it super sharp, maybe im expecting too much of it? or i have one with the bad focus issue? i thought the ones that had problems had uneven focus like one side or corner?

i hooked it up to my "htpc" and the ati catalyst control center or whatever setttings will show its capapble of up to 1080p/120hz but i think my video drivers are either out dated or not capable of custom refresh rates so i have not been able to feed it 120hz



returning it. not much difference between the screen and my light grey flat paint knock down textured sheetrock wall, not impressed.

Proper calibration requires more than a CMS, you also have to adjust the basics properly (contrast/brightness/sharpness/etc.) and there are factory pre-sets that are available on the PA70G that can lead to a more pleasing and semi-accurate image (color temp/dynamic contrast/gamma/black level/color gamut/etc.). So if you get everything except the CMS dialed in you'll still have a fairly decent image over-all, certainly much better than it comes out of the box.

- - - - -

cut,

It sounds like you may have a unit like the second unit that I had, it was very uniform but would never get sharp. Can you make out sharp individual pixel's right up at the screen?

A textured wall or screen will detract from the image and focal sharpness. Those Inland screens are honestly horrible, they have far too much texture to result in a pleasing image (which it sounds like you discovered).

Jason
Edited by DaGamePimp - 2/28/13 at 2:05pm

i will fire it up and look when i get home. i should be able to make out the pixels clearly you are saying or i might have a bad unit? if thats the case should i crack it open and try to screw fix? or not waste my time and send it back?

i really want to like this thing lol its not making it easy



i have some large sheets of a plastic almost pvc type material i think its used for kitchen or bathroom walls, i think i still have some from yrs ago when i had a projector last, might have to dig it out, i think it might work better then this inland screen im returning

ATI Catalyst Control Panel will only allow HDTV custom resolution overrides. So say if the EDID only had a 1080i profile, you could make a 1080P resolution override at either 50 or 60Hz.

There are only three ways that I know of to do custom resolutions if you have a Radeon card.

One is to use an EDID override that contains the resolutions you want.

Two is to use CRU(custom resolution Utility) made by ToastyX.

Three is to use a registry editor made by some German? guy(Mr. Lolman) to edit resolutions for downsampling. You can simply edit it in, if you know the porches, sync widths, pixel clock, etc...

I've never used Powerstrip, so I'm unsure if it could do the same. I do know that last I checked, it was incompatible with AMDs 7XXX series of GPUs.

I use the program by Mr. Lolman for downsampling in games that allow it. I use a 2560x1600@120Hz resolution that is downsampled to 1280x800@120Hz settings and 2560x1440 to 1280x720@120Hz.The only problem is that you need to use Java, which has been the target of hackers lately. Check out the Guide over at Guru3D.
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=366244

While downsampling is great in some games, you will not want to use it for the desktop.

EDIT: just wanted to add that the downsampling utility does not work with catalyst 13.1
EDIT#2: Nvidia will allow downsampling in 3D Vision.
For TriDef, you have to use an editor they made for their software
http://www.tridef.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3325
Edited by Rugrash - 2/28/13 at 9:16pm

'

cut,

nowadays I just follow the thread and read comments but refrain from commenting, mostly, but Im gonna put in my 2 cents...what you're experiencing is exactly what I had in the last unit I returned, soft focus..the best way to test how sharp your focus is to hookup you PC and just go to a text/web (this website) page and see how sharp the text is. if you can't get sharp text to look sharp then you have a bad unit...that being said, don't expect to look like your laptop or lcd display or your flat panel TV, if your text is relatively sharp then consider yourself lucky and enjoy your new toy. as far as the color, I did find this projector to be a bit cartoonish looking...colors looked almost fluorescent, but I was able to reign in by dialing down the "color" setting to under 50, text looks a lot better with sharpness below 60...I believe that while some people have genuinely bad units, others have unrealistic expectations, by having been spoiled by lamp based projectors and the sharpness their computer displays:D

i might just be expecting too much from a projector, i can see individual pixles, like a screen door effect but only if im looking up close, but there not super clear and defined, but easy enough to see. yes the colors are almost neon unless i turn them down at which point they seem to go bad... if this is normal for this projector then i guess it is what it is, good for movies and racing games or whatever but easily blown away by a cheap 1080p lcd tv lol at color reproduction and over all definition

Hi cut,

i dont know where to start or which post to quote so i begin here.
First, people also told me that i probably have a bad unit cause i couldnt get this thing sharp even after the screw fix, which helped only a bit.
But after using the EDID Override and the possibility to use the correct source resolution and hz i am totally happy with the new sharpness and great fluent picture i have with this projector. But as not only me and even you were pointing at in this thread is the sad fact thats not too easy to set this projector up so you get 100% performance out of it. Otherwise it is definetly worth it when you are successful, specially for the price youre paying in your country.

Also keep in mind this is not an Epson TW3200 or something for 2000$ it is a new generation, very cheap produced projector with alot of childhood illnesses, which i personally think the setting it up correctly is the biggest problem.

When you got it set up correctly it is like night and day performing wise. But not everyone is technically talented enough to do so with this thing. Its not easy thats for sure. If you really want to like it you should set yourself to work and read thru at least the last 10 pages and go thru the many guides for the screw/lens fix (which is very easy even for untechi persons) but specially for the 720p@120hz override which gives the endresult that changed my mind about this projector from absolutely horrible unsharp crap to absolutely awesome sharp and pleasant to watch.

Dont give up too early its the best solution if you want LED at the moment.

Good Luck!

edit: And yes the colours are just what they are considering its a plastic lens which is the reason for the cartoonish/neon appearance. Here is nothing to win by correct setup but its ok if you dont put a glass lens projector or HTDV next to it.

LG has solved the problem of focus?
the pb60g has focus problems?
thanks
Edited by fabryb - 3/1/13 at 8:50am

I got one a week or so ago and have been pretty happy with it but also know that the focus is not quite right. I feel like if the focus wheel went just a little farther, I would be fine. But I have it dialed as far as it will go and text is slightly blurry. If I watch a blu-ray (over component-VGA on a 92" screen) it looks pretty great (has the slightly defocused smooth effect that I used to get with my X1, but much better if memory serves). The colors/picture when watching blu-ray are very nice. When looking at text, I can almost get it to be sharp if I stand and hold the focus ring down with a little pressure, but when I let go, it returns to slightly defocused.

I am pretty sure I am going to try to exchange mine and see if I roll a better unit...I would like to have the focus range such that I can go from defocused to focused to defocused with room on either side of the sweet spot for adjustment. Do people with the "good" units have this ability or does your focus point come at the very end of the dial? Am curious if I should just try the making screw adjustment or exchange it?

Also, I am still setting up for this projector, converting from my previous setup. Previously, I had run a 25ft C14 power cable (standard computer/monitor cable) to my old projector. I am planning on using that and buying something like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OC579E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A8ZS0UANLEAA6) to convert back to a 3-prong power outlet, when I saw this (http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-60320-C5-receptacle-60320-C14/dp/B004OC74EK/ref=pd_sim_e_6). Can anyone tell if this thing would fit the port on the power brick? I will probably just go with the other, but was curious if I could go with this one and eliminate some extra cable.

Thanks for any input.

skeletor8,

Regarding the focus wheel/lens travel...

On the focus dial there is a filled section on the gear teeth that prevent it from turning all the way around. My findings show that the dial is not placed optimal from the factory (LG QC ) and does not allow full lens travel (especially for larger screen sizes/longer throw).

You can take off the focus dial, once inside the unit, and optimize your lens travel, you'll need a set of small precision phillips screwdrivers. It will make sense once you are looking at it, move the focus dial back and forth and watch your lens travel. The lens has stopping points and you'll want set the focus dial for maximum travel between those two points while sacrificing a little bit at the short throw focal range. I would also suggest you tighten the focus dial a bit more than it was stock but be careful not to over-tighten/strip (this will eliminate some of the play in the dial).

This procedure helped a decent amount on two of the three units that I have had (I did not attempt it on one of the three). I have focal adjustment in either direction on my 100" screen (throw is 10' - 11').

Obviously this is a do at your own risk procedure, it could void your warranty if you are not careful and leave signs that the unit has been opened.

Best of luck either way (should you attempt an exchange instead).

* That adapter looks to me like it would fit the power brick, sometimes a little trimming is required but that looks like the correct fitment.

Jason

should maybe of said - maybe im expecting too much of a $500 700 lumen led projector at this point. i dont mind doing some messing around to get somthing to work right even if it involves opening it up, but even if i can manage to get my 5yr old computer to pump out 720p 120hz it still does not do me much good for xbox, which is what i do when i do have a spare hour a day to sit in front of somthing

i will keep reading back back pages on this thread, hopfully i can make my mind up/determin if my unit is defective before its too late to return it, if its not already

John
Edited by bony - 3/12/13 at 4:13am

Don't mean to jack up this thread, but seeing that some of you might be looking at some options...this looks interesting... 8,000 hrs, 3D ready, 15,000:1 contrast and all for 699.00? not sure what it means by PC 3D ready

http://www.jr.com/viewsonic/pe/VIW_PJD7820HD/

3000 Lumens / 15000:1 Contrast Ratio / 1920x1080 Resolution / HDMI With 3D Blu-ray Support / PC And Video Input Options / Speaker
The ViewSonic PJD7820HD is a high-performance WXGA DLP projector which includes BrilliantColor technology to produce more vibrant colors. With 3000 lumens and 15000:1 contrast ratio, it’s guaranteed to shine in virtually any setting. This projector comes standard with widescreen resolution, HDMI, 3D Blu-Ray ready, Integrated speaker and DynamicEco. With the latest HDMI, the PJD7820HD can display 3D images from 3D Blu-ray players. Filter-less design and DynamicEco - reduce Brightness by 70% when it’s not in use - provide for virtually zero maintenance and longer product life. With only 3.3 inches high and lightweight at 4.6 lbs, the PJD7820HD is a portable projector ideal for use in corporate, education and home office environments.
Type: 0.65" Digital Micromirror Device (DLP)
Resolution: WXGA 1920x1080 (native)
Lens: 1.1x Manual Optical Zoom / manual optical Focus
Keystone: Vertical digital keystone correction (+/- 40º)
Display Size: 28 - 300 in. / 0.7 - 7.6 m (diagonal)
Throw Distance: 3.3 - 26.2 ft. / 1.0 - 8.0 m
Throw Ratio: 1.5~1.65:1
Lamp Type: 190 Watt
Lamp Life (normal/eco-mode): 5000 / 6000 / 8000 hours (Normal/Eco-mode/DynamicEco)
Brightness: 2800 Lumens
Contrast Ratio: 15,000:1 (w/ DynamicEco)
Aspect Ratio: 16:9 (native)
Color Wheel: 6-seg RGBCYW / 7200rpm
Color Depth: 30 bits, 1.07B Color (10+10+10)
Computer and Video: NTSC M (3.58 MHz), 4.43MHz, PAL (B, D, G, H, I, M, N, 60), SECAM (B, D, G, K, K1, L), SD 480i and 576i, ED 480p and 576p, HD 720p, 1080i, 1080p
Frequency: Fh: 31-100KHz, Fv: 48-120Hz
PC: VGA to 1680x1050 (WSXGA+), Mac: Up to WSXGA+ (may require MAC adaptor)
Audio Input: 3.5mm mini jack
Audio Out: 3.5mm mini jack
RGB Input15-pin mini D-sub (x2)
Composite Input: RCA jackS-Video Input4-pin mini-DIN
Component: 15-pin mini D-sub (x2, shared with RGB)
Output: 15-pin mini D-sub
Control: RS-232 (DB-9)
Digital: HDMI
USB: Type B (for Mouse control and service)
Speakers: 2W
Voltage: 100~240VAC (Auto Switching), 50/60Hz (universal)
Dimensions: 10.6" x 3.3" x 8.7"
Weight: 4.6 lbs.
Edited by garibay_2004 - 3/2/13 at 7:31pm