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The very low budget DIY synergy horn build - Page 3

post #61 of 118
Just a bit OT:

I was just thinking about the idea of stacking these styles of speaker to produce essentially a horn line array.

Stacking synergy horns would smooth response and present a larger vertical wave front but would defeat the point of building a synergy horn in the first place wouldn't it?

Just reading over the synergy horn spiel and it mentions stacking the synergy horn which maintains a coherent wave front. But isn't the largest advantage of the synergy horn that it acts as a point source? And thus would suffer the normal defects of line arrays with a large C-C distance between horn centers?

Your response is looking great btw!

How big would the horn have to get to horn load/control directivity at 100Hz? From what I remember your 10" woofers would be acting a lot like direct radiators at this size wouldn't they?
post #62 of 118
Yes - it would be a bit of a waste!

If the output is not enough, then consider attempting a DIY Jericho if feeling ambitious!
post #63 of 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchH311 View Post

Just a bit OT:

I was just thinking about the idea of stacking these styles of speaker to produce essentially a horn line array.

Stacking synergy horns would smooth response and present a larger vertical wave front but would defeat the point of building a synergy horn in the first place wouldn't it?

Just reading over the synergy horn spiel and it mentions stacking the synergy horn which maintains a coherent wave front. But isn't the largest advantage of the synergy horn that it acts as a point source? And thus would suffer the normal defects of line arrays with a large C-C distance between horn centers?

Your response is looking great btw!

How big would the horn have to get to horn load/control directivity at 100Hz? From what I remember your 10" woofers would be acting a lot like direct radiators at this size wouldn't they?

A single speaker is ALWAYS going to sound better than multiples. Stacking them will get louder-but the sound quality will go down a little bit.

It does not suffer as much as other designs-because you are starting with a true point source-and not sereral sources in the same cabinet.

So when you stack 2 you have 2 sources. instead of 3 (assuming a 3 way box) sources in a single box-mixing with another 3 sources in another box and creating all kinds of interference patterns all over the place.

The size of the horn needed will depend on the coverage angle of the horn. As the pattern goes narrower-the horn size has to be LARGER-to maintain the same low freq cutoff.

A basic formula is this. Freq of cutoff=1,000,000/(horn width in inches x horn pattern in degrees)

So for a horn that is 60° and 24" across you get 1,000,000/ (60x24)=694Hz

So for that same horn to have a 100Hz cutoff it is going to have to be QUITE a bit larger.

If you use a wider pattern horn, the physical size could be quite a bit smaller.

But then you run into other issues-How well can ghe HF driver fill out the horn? Getting the mid drivers to fit close enough to the HF driver-IS the pattern to wide for the coverage space and so forth.

It is all a matter of compromise.
post #64 of 118
Thread Starter 
I have finished the rear enclosure for the horn and am now working on measurements / crossover design. Building the enclosure took much longer then the horn itself, many more pieces to cut and glue.


Here I have some of the brackets to hold the enlcosure on the horn. It took me quite a while to figure out this step, how would I cut the brackets to fit on the horn? If I where to cut the brackets on an angle that matches the horn the corners would be a mess with angle chages or seperate small squares on the corners like I did on the v1 horns. Then I figured it out I don't need to cut them at all I need to cut the sides of the horn mouth square. Here you can see the sides and the first two brackets for top and bottom mounted.



Here I am gluing the side brackets on.



Starting the frame.





Dry fit of side panel to check driver clearance and determine location of removable access panel.





Gluing the sides in place.



Some bracing.



All done with access panels removed, the top and bottom are also removable.




Drivers installed.



Now I start my work on the crossover.
post #65 of 118
Outstanding!

Very, very cool ... thanks for sharing, best of luck.
post #66 of 118
Awesome work!
post #67 of 118
Very clean look, mtg90- great work. Really lookin' forward to the graphs. One thought: are you worried about potential phase cancellation between the rear waves of the woofers and mids? If that turns out to be a problem, then I would guess you would have to isolate the two sets.

John

Edit: I think we could all benefit if you'd post raw responses of the tweeter, mid group, and woofer group, as well as your crossover plans... that is, if you don't mind sharing I think it would be cool to see how each of these groups behaves individually in your enclosure.
post #68 of 118
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbomb View Post

Very clean look, mtg90- great work. Really lookin' forward to the graphs. One thought: are you worried about potential phase cancellation between the rear waves of the woofers and mids? If that turns out to be a problem, then I would guess you would have to isolate the two sets.

John

Edit: I think we could all benefit if you'd post raw responses of the tweeter, mid group, and woofer group, as well as your crossover plans... that is, if you don't mind sharing I think it would be cool to see how each of these groups behaves individually in your enclosure.


The mids on this one have been sealed you can see the strips of black cardboard on them. So no rear wave interaction between woofers and mids.

Here are new measurements of the woofer/mid/tweeter in the finished horn. I had ran out of gasket material so 3 of the 4 mids and all the removable panels do not have any gaskets so the enclosure is very leaky.




The woofers are not as sensitive as I thought they would be but the mids are more sensitive then predicted. I think there is somthing going on with the woofer ports and the relationship between the diameter and the depth. I think when the diameter is much greater then the length of the port it acts like the port length moves towards zero because there is no real air slug in the port. You can see this in my woofer plot as all the high frequencies escape, it does not act like a bandpass filtering them out


I have yet to do any crossover work yet, will post plans once I start on it.

I may wire the mids in series to bring them down some without using resistors but I need to see what that will do to my crossover, if I need to throw a ton of copper on them then that idea is out.
post #69 of 118
That looks quite workable, mtg90.

My woofers are going way up higher than I expected or needed, too. I used long oval holes.

Are you giving any thought to bringing these over to the MWAF in July? I'd love to see and hear them. If mine are workable by then, I may bring them.

I'm doing my cabinets a little different than yours, I put rims behind the horn mouth so I can mount the horns like normally done with a driver.

(see http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/i....msg191#msg191)
post #70 of 118
The out of band peaks on the woofers are a bit of a concern. If you have some resonances causing them, then they are actually performing worse than a normal direct radiator. A big part of the appeal of a project like this is to get cheap parts to perform well beyond expectations and I believe a part of achieving that is not only the point source, but also the acoustic bandpass filering which can make the distortion of a cheap driver jump down. So with the mids you see about 30 db reduction in distortion components above 1k.

Now if you have resonances then it's going the other way, actually increasing distortion! I wonder if there is some benefit in increasing the volume in front of your woofers, and experimenting more with the ports. You could add a mounting ring/spacer to try different volumes on an existing design.

Your boxes are looking great by the way.

It's hard to know exactly what is going on, but I might speculate that you are losing horn loading around 200 Hz or thereabouts, then below about 150 Hz what you are getting is simply those woofers running as direct radiators. In that case, the sealed box extension is a bit surprising, if your measurement is accurate in the bass range also. Guessing your woofers have a high Qts hence they won't like a small vented box but if you wanted more sensitivity on your woofers then you'd be looking at woofers with stronger motors where you could port the rear volume of the box, yielding a 6th order bandpass design with the output above 200 Hz or so horn loaded. Probably not a good idea with your woofers, as I suspect they like a sealed box.
post #71 of 118
Thread Starter 
bwalso - I'll be in Italy during the MWAF so thats a no go

Paul -
I think some of the dip at 120hz may be room related causing the woofers to look like they have a larger peak at Fsc then they should. The woofers are mid Qts ~4.5 but have a high Vas around 5.8 cu ft which causes the high Qtc of the enclosure. I have already played around with the idea of porting the enclosure for a 6th order bandpass (can do this in winISD because drivers act as direct radiators at this frequency) I get a peak if I tune it anywhere above 30hz the only real benefit is the reduced cone excursion from 22-60hz when played fullrange.

I'll try and play around with it, I can only add 3/4" more material in front of the driver before it hits the top or bottom panel, so I may try that. I can also tape some 2" pvc on the outside of the ports to see what effect it has when I increase the port length.

When I saw the woofer graph I was , what a mess.
post #72 of 118
Thread Starter 
Ok I have finally got the woofer response I wanted, took alot of effort but I have it.

First moving the woofer back with a spacer ring would not give me the needed volume in the front chamber to get the HF filtering that is needed. What was going on in the woofer response was that I was not getting as deep a 1/2 wavelength cancelation notch at 500hz (woofer port to throat and back) as was in my hornresp sim. This led the peak at 600hz to get through which is about the tuning frequency of the woofer ports.

Here is a graph showin the hornresp sim, winISD sim, and actual measurements of the first iteration.



I had to find a way to increase the front chamber volume enough to get the bandpass filtering to start lower. So here is attempt #2:







You can see I split the horn internals into two seperate parts, one in the front of the horn and one in the rear where the ports are. I figured this would give me the bandpass filtering that I wanted. The woofer fronts are a little cramped under the top and bottom removable panels but I thought there should be enough breathing room for them. I also made a slight modification to the ports.

I don't have the graphs for this one because it turned out just as bad as the first design for filtering HF. It also turns out I had a huge notch at 200hz that I did not know where it was coming from. Gold star for someone who can figure it out from the photos.

After I saw that all my work made the response worse I closed the REW session of my second attept without saving out of rage .


I'll post my finished result after someone guesses the correct reason for why I had the 200hz notch in my woofer response in the second attempt (clue it was not a measurement problem).
post #73 of 118
How did you get the winISD into REW?

Sorry to hear it didn't improve things!

Consider the second flare angle also. This prevents beaming and gives you a more consistent beamwidth, where without you tend to get a narrowing response before pattern control is lost. At some point you want to measure dispersion all the way out to 90 degrees, it's very interesting to see what you get. I suggest you do it outdoors elevated on a PA pole.
post #74 of 118
Thread Starter 
I used SPLtrace to get the winISD response into REW.

Things did improve greatly in the third iteration.

A correct guess to the 200hz notch problem in the second iteration and I'll put up my new woofer graphs for the third iteration.

I'll do some outdoor measurements at some point, I don't have a PA pole but I think I can get the speaker a good distance off the ground for those.
post #75 of 118
I bought a pair and made a turntable for it because I have a lot of use for this stuff. Cheap on ebay too!



When I bought it I was going to see if I could sell the other one to someone local, making my one stand very very cheap ... but no one went for it.

Doing it on the cheap you can always use the ironing board system ...



That is a DIY mic with a chopstick in it!

Try to get it off the ground a fair amount because a Synergy horn has interesting data down to about 200 Hz. Below that point you you are getting into the room dominated region and you don't need to see directivity. If you make the mouth big and/or the coverage wide then you can get a constant beamwidth down low ... much lower than the Ewave style speakers. I can't help but wonder if this is part of their clarity in the midranage.
post #76 of 118
spacing between the woofers into the ported cavity in back? (just a guess).
post #77 of 118
Another guess. Was it caused by a reflected wave through the cone into the ported chamber due to the very close spacing of the woofer front to the outer wall of the box?
post #78 of 118
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaslo View Post

spacing between the woofers into the ported cavity in back? (just a guess).

ding ding, bwalso get the correct answer, they were about 1/2 wavelength apart at 200hz inside the back of the enclosure causing the cancelation. Gold star for bwalso



Quote:
Originally Posted by LFM2; View Post

Another guess. Was it caused by a reflected wave through the cone into the ported chamber due to the very close spacing of the woofer front to the outer wall of the box?

This did cause some issues at higher freqencies but not the 200hz notch.



Ok here is my third iteration, woofers moved closer together so not to cause any canceling issues within the passband and the horn enclosure is much better braced then the other two also.


Original woofer placement/design vs new


woofer/mids/high



The dip at 120-130hz is a floor bounce, It goes away when I measure on the ground. Good response to 80hz, about 5dB more output the the original woofer design from 80-180hz. Reduced cone excursion over the original design, able to take close to 200 watts input before reaching driver Xmax.

Now that I solved the woofer problems I can finally get to crossover design.
post #79 of 118
I found a YouTube video that mtg90 has also posted demoing his Synergy horn:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rAI-uJcblg

And I've compiled a list+pictures of all the DIY Synergy builds I could find online, at: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=23.0
post #80 of 118
mtg90, would you please post a picture of the 3rd version with the damping removed? I am curious to see how you were able to wrangle the new baffle for the woofers in there. I have to say that I think your carpentry skills are impressive and I think this project is coming along great. Do you have any plans to use the rear wave of the woofers by porting that section of the box?
post #81 of 118
Nice work, mtg90. I'm looking at your tweeter response, and I notice a bit of a dip close to 4k. I only mention this because I think Tom Danley ran into a similar dip with his early Unity builds, which was caused by the mid woofer ports (I suppose from diffraction). He solved it by strategically placing small blocks of foam at the mouth of the horn- I don't know the details, however.

Very cool build!

John
post #82 of 118
Thread Starter 
LFM2, my carpentry skills are not as good as some other members on this forum but thank you.

I don't think I will port the other enclosure, it will make the response peaky and would be very hard to do in the current form.

Here are the requested pictures inside the enclosure with foam removed. I have the enclosure split into 3 seperate chambers, each woofer has its own chamber that is ported into the horn and they share the other sealed one.



Here is the shared chamber, the woofers are mounted very close to the mids.





Thanks John,
I looked back at all my tweeter sweeps just to make sure that was not a driver thing because that selenium's FR gets kind of crazy and I do see it on the sweeps with the domes that I tried. Now its gets very interesting, I accidentaly clicked on a mid response while in REW when selecting all the tweeter ones and the slight mid peak I get is at the exact same spot, now I'd like to see someone explain that if in fact those are related and not just coincidence.



Also some crossover work has been done, not the flattest response you'll ever see, but done with parts on hand so I'm not complaining until I hear it.


Mounted on boards not yet soldered, I could not mount in all onto one board and fit in in the enclosure so there is a woofer/tweeter board and a mid board.
post #83 of 118
That is interesting. Can you post sweeps of the combined response and individual mid/tweet responses on the same page? Also, try a tweeter response with all ports taped over and see if the dip goes away. I'm looking forward to seeing how this plays out.

John
post #84 of 118
Great pictures. Thanks very much.
post #85 of 118
Thread Starter 
Here is the combined mid tweeter in/out of phase and individual responses.



Off to do the sweep with taped up mid ports
post #86 of 118
Thread Starter 
OK here is the tweeter response with and without mid ports covered.




Some interesting results the dips at 300 and 850 are gone but little change at 3.6k. There is improvement at 2.5k and 4.5k and overall it is much smoother.
post #87 of 118
Very impressive, way over my own capabilities, none the less great to see what quality can be made @ home.
post #88 of 118
Well, I guess at this point we have to assume the dip relates to tweeter/horn interaction. Either that, or the tape isn't thick/rigid enough, which I highly doubt. Looking at the combined vs. individual responses in post #85, it does look as though the midrange peak corresponds to a SLIGHTLY worse tweeter dip at that frequency, maybe 3db. Not sure if that's worth building a notch filter for your crossover, though. I think at this point, I'd just smile and declare victory

John
post #89 of 118
I saw a dip too, in my Synergy attempt, that was affected by covering the holes.
post #90 of 118
Thread Starter 
Got outside and did some measurements today, 0-60 degrees spaced apart a little bit:
v2outdoor060degrees.png


The response looks best at about 15 degrees off axis.
v2outdoor15degrees.png


My thought is that on axis all the ports from the mids and woofers are at an equal distance and any reflections that occur and cause iregularities in the response will sum. When you move off axis those distances become different and the relfections no longer combine to give large peaks or dips.

I still have some work with the woofer and woofer/mid x-over, going to stuff the sealed woofer chamber becuase right now it is almost bare, only two peices of foam in there. I hope that will help flatten the peak at 85hz.
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