The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 36

Hi,

I don't think I've noticed that grey/white ghosting on mine.

If it's bothering you, and it sounds like it is, you may want to return it. If you want to try a different panel, like a S-PVA, I would go to a brick and mortar store and make sure you get the one you want. I wouldn't buy online and then "hope" you get the one you want.

Plasmas should offer good motion, as long as you are OK with any drawbacks they may have (best in controlled lighting (not daylight), image retention/burn-in, etc.)

Hey guys, I'm looking into buying a UN40EH5000 and have been looking out for a Txx model but I stumbled across one at a wal-mart tonight with a model number of SS04.

I'm confused by this and not sure what to make of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

NEVERMIND, just embarrassed myself. This is the old CCFL LCD. Been drinkin too much lately. *face_palm*

I just picked up the EH5000 from WalMart the other day, Got an open box for $430, never even looked like it had been open. I haven't checked the service menu yet but the box says HS01, which from past reading leads me to believe this is a Sharp panel. So far I've experienced zero ghosting blurring or any of the mentioned issues other folks have had. I've tried several source materials to include a Toshiba HD-DVD player, Blu-Ray through a Laptop, Dish Hopper and Xbox 360, everything looks as it should. Unlike some other people I actually like the clear motion feature on this TV, the darkened image doesn't bother me at all and if anything reduces my eye strain and seems to help somewhat in fast moving scenes. Gaming is a pleasure, zero issues playing games like CoD, GoW and Skyrim.

The only question I have is regarding my Blu-Ray equipped laptop, 2:3 pulldown and film mode (Not the Selection in Picture Settings) I have the laptop connected with HDMI into the HDMI/DVI port. When playing any Blu-Ray disc is shows 1080-1920 60Hz...Film mode is not selectable and nothing seems to change even when I rename the input. I however do see the proper 2:3 pulldown and labeling when watching On Demand movies from Dish IE 1080 - 1920 24hz and film mode is selectable. I'm using cyberlink software to play the discs and the laptop is set to maintain the original aspect ratio of the source material. Any thoughts? BTW the movie in question is Avatar, I have also tried my other Discs which have the same results.

If the TV shows 60hz, it means your laptop is sending a 60hz signals, thus no need for pulldown.

It's that simple... What's consider better though? I always here about 24hz as some kind test of which source material is tested by or is better than 60hz.. I guess I'm confused.

im so confused alot of info here anyone can just point me to the correct link.

i just bought the UN40EH6000 and looking to calibrate it. It has the TS02 Panel on it.

thank you in advance:)

Hey guys,

Just picked up the UN32EH5300 on sale after doing some research as it sounds like a great television.

I'm going to need some advice/links/resources for calibration, but aside from that - I'm having an issue when hooked up to my notebook via HDMI. It seem to look fine/normal/great in certain resolutions, but not so great in others.

If I set my output to 1680 x 1050 in particular on my graphics card's settings, it looks brilliant, just great. However, if I try to set it to 1920 x 1080, the image is full of noise and just.. doesn't.. look.. right. The colours are off, the image is thoroughly pixelated, something is clearly wrong.

Any guidance? I'm downloading new Nvidia drivers now to see if it's something wrong there, but I was having ZERO issues with my Sharp Aquos 1080p LCD TV which was over four years old... so why god why!?

edit: if it helps at all, I have a TS01 panel

edit 2: just removed video card from computer, rebooted, installed new nvidia drivers, rebooted again - same issue. still looks horrible in 1080p (despite being detected as the 'native' resolution by my video card), 1680 x 1050 still looks great, but super confused why 1080p is looking so noisey, pixelated, and awful :/
Edited by curiouscharles - 2/24/13 at 11:01pm

Go into TV's menu and rename that hdmi port to PC

wow, how the heck does that even MATTER? thanks man!

also, now my audio works as well - thank you so much!

It enables 4-4-4 chroma sub-sampling


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1381724/official-4-4-4-chroma-subsampling-thread

Score! Got my 46" EH5000 from Amazon yesterday and it is a TS02 panel! I was prepared to go through the exchange process if need be, but I'm very happy I won't have to.

I just bought UA40EH5000R
its version is TD02
what does it mean
and plz provide me calibration settings, Using with PC

Turns out I'll have to get Samsung to check it out since the shop won't accept returns until its evaluated.

At any rate, I did a bit of poking around and found that on that specific scene that I linked in the video, it only occured when HDMI Black level was set to Normal. When setting it to Low (crushing all the blacks), the ghosting doesn't occur. Obviously this isn't a solution, but it's something interesting of note nonetheless. I guess it's just because it only occurs with certain colour/lighting situations?

got a UN32EH5000 from Sears, it's on clearance at my store, not sure if it's nationwide. They had to order to ship it to the store, just picked it up last night. it was $100 less than others were selling at the time. They have terrible return policy thou, 15% restocking fee. It has TS01 panel.

I'm thinking about getting the UE32EH5300, but I have a rather specific question for those who have the set. I noticed on one of the images of the set on amazon uk that there is a dvi audio input on the back of the tv which looks to me to be similar to a 3.5mm audio jack, does anyone know what it does?. I am wondering if it is possible for me to connect the tv set to my pc via a dvi to hdmi cable and connect a 3.5mm audio cable from my pc to the dvi audio input jack on the tv and receive audio from the tv speakers? I'm curious about this because it would save me having to get an additional set of speakers when I want to use the tv as a monitor, I have a 560ti video card only with dvi (which from what I understand does not output audio like hdmi does). Have any of you with this set who are using it as a pc monitor have tested this out or are willing to?

That's exactly what it's for. Many TV's have it. Also for the VGA input.

Thanks, exactly what I'm looking for then! Guess I'll bite and the get the tv set, everything I've read seemed to show that it'll be a great monitor as well.

I have a Samsung EH4000 (UN26EH4000F) that does not recognize any flash or external drives on the USB port. I have formatted the drives to NTFS and FAT32 and still no response, even though the manual says it can read either. I put 4 different files (mkv mp4 mpeg avi) but nothing comes up on the screen. People have said its the encoding, but I have played the same movies on different model Samsung flat screens. Does anyone have any solutions or suggestions? Thanks in advance.

The only suggestions I have are either a broken USB port or unrecognised external devices.

The problem with USB drives (usually flash sticks) is there are many different versions of driver required for them. Frequently when you plug a USB stick into a Windows PC a message pops up "installing device driver" (or words to that effect) - which means Windows is having to go to its library for yet another driver to suit the new stick. Embedded operating systems do not have such an extensive range of pre-installed drivers.

However, if you have tried a variety of devices (including hard drives), and particularly if you have proven the devices on other Samsung kit, this seems less likely.

just saw that my un32eh5000 has the manufacture date of 2/2013, I guess it has the latest firmware. You'd think these will be discontinued soon, I guess they are still making them.

It depends on te returns policy of the retailer you bought from - there is nothing actually faulty with having the Sharp panel.

I'm having a problem with the picture on my 32" EH5000 with a TS01. There's like a weird outline on everything on the tv. It's mostly noticeable on people and text. I can faintly see a 2nd image basically. One of the things I just realized is the outline is kinda green on the left side of people, but kinda red on the right side of people.

This is using the settings that were posted here http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406151/the-official-2012-samsung-eh4000-eh5000-eh5300-owners-thread/300#post_22368244

It looks great when I'm using the TV as a monitor for my PC, but when I'm watching cable tv it has those annoying outlines. I'm wondering if it could have anything to do with the stupid little digital receiver comcast makes everyone use now, or if a bad coaxial cable could cause this.
Edited by grandpab - 3/7/13 at 4:32pm

Guys i have posted the information bellow in Sony HX750 Official thread but because one of the tests is done on Samsung 40EH5300 i think you would find it interesting . It regarding about Pulse Width Modulation control in LCD LED displays . I havent red your thread here and i dont know if you commented it but here is PWM Samsung EH5300 against analog controlled ( no PWM ) qualty display of SONY HX750 video compare :

( Video shot at high shutter speed 1/3200 fixed aperture , shutter , iso with Sony NEX 5R ) . If you notice a flicker on the Sony ( right ) when the two displays are in the shot , it is cos of the flicker of the samsung ( it makes the whole room "flicker , will post a video to see how even the "room flickers " from the samsung .

Some article on what Pulse Width Modulation - PWM is : http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm

The below is my post at the HX750 thread , so for somethings i may have said " as i previously posted " it is in regard to my posts in the HX750 thread . I Know this is Samsung EH4***/5*** thread , my intention is not to tharash Samsung as i used to be fan of their tvs Had 3 Samsungs before i decided to trust sony , but turns out Sony is much better option if qualty is what one searches .I am sorry if the details will angry some Samsung fans , but facts are facts .
For more of my comments you can check : http://www.avsforum.com/t/1400263/official-sony-kdl-46hx750-kdl-55hx750-owners-thread/1170 Pages 34-40 ( i have no comments previously of 34 page ) , but most of them are not for samsungs , exept some for the D6530 which was faulty advertised as FULL HD 3D and i managed of scaring samsung to return my money back after even 1 year of usage

Sorry to be the bear of BAD news /facts

Guys as promised more info for Pulse Width Modulation . For my tests i needed a photodiode , 1kOhm resistor , supply , shelded audio cable & 3.5 mm audio jack ,composition board and after some calculations i made my own Photo oscilloscope that can detect light flicker frequency from 0- 44000 Hz when connected to a computer 3.5 mm microphone audio in ( If someone wants more info for the circuitboard , photodiode and know-how to make your own photo oscilloscope , send me a message ) ( turned out the sound card of my new lenovo made tons of noise and was not usable , but for my luck the old Sony Vaio sound card was perfect , with minimal static noise ) .
In my previous posts i shown a video with high speed shutter camera and images for what PULSE Width modulation is and why is it bad . Again basicly manifactures either control the Backlight with an expensive analog current control , or with cheap pulse width modulation ( PWM ) . When PWM is used , if you lower the backlight you will be increasing a period of which the backlight will be turned OFF and reducing the period of the backlight is on . Which will create an invisible flicker ( you should have seen the luminiscent lamps from the old times , they still use them thought ) . Since after you turn the current on an LED it is instantly turned off ( it stops emmiting light instand ) , PWM on the same frequency for LED display is worse for your eyes and health then the same frequency PWM for CCFL because when you stop the supply to CCFL it continues to emmit light for some small time .

NOTE i made them with the composition board so i can test , before i solder them on a circuit board . I should also add that since i am an IT guy and i am studying IT in the collage i mannaged to have a course assigment on PWM and Light luminosity using the same photodiode , PIC controller , programmator , some code in assembly and LCD display , so i will be making my own pocket device that will be able to calculate and display the frequency and the light luminosity in LUX , thought it will not provide Sine Wave like the examples to judge the form of the wave .

Here are the test results . I will be providing better ones . I am using for comparison Sony VAIO notebook (i think CCFL ), Samsung LED 40EH5300 and my beloved SONY LED 55HX570 .
I will provide time stamp for the start of the wave t1 and the end of the wave t2 . Also i will provide informationf for how long is the backlight Off and On .
I will start with the Sony Vaio :

Backlight set to Minimum
t1 start 0,002494
t2 end 0,007506

T=t2-t1= 0,005012
Frequency = 1sec/T= 199.52 hz =~ 200 Hz .
The Backlight is off for : 0,00093seconds which is 1075 Hz and it is on for 0,004082 seconds which is 244,977952 Hz ( note i shouldnt give the ON and OFF in Hz , because it is a time the light is on or off , its a length of a time not a period frequency )

---

Sony Vaio at 50 % backlight

The frequency is the same 200 Hz , roughly the period for the light ON is equal to the Period of the OFF light cycle

---

Sony Vaio at Max backlight

PWM is absent at full backlight . Light is always ON ( which is good for your eyes ) , bacause of that there is no syne wave and no abuse to your eyes . For that notebook backlight should be set to max to avoid eye strain from the PWM flicker

---

Samsung 40EH5300

Backlight at Minimum

t1=0,002222
t2=0,009728
T=t1-t2=0,007506

Frequency= 1/T=133 Hz !!! That is seriously low for an LED , the Sony VAIO gave 200 Hz but it uses CCFL which means the on and off cycle is not so hard so it will be better than a 200 Hz LED , and samsung doesnt even uses 200 Hz but 133 Hz .... an LED LCD should have at least 400 Hz backlight or like proffesional displays have 3000-4000 ( 3kHz-4kHz ) frequency .

Off time is 0,007166 sec and 139,5478649 Hz and On time of the backlight is 0,00034 sec and 2941,176471Hz

---

Samsung 40EH5300

Backlight at 50 %( setting 10 out of 20 )
The frequency is the same 133 Hz . Only change is for the On and Off Duration
Off time is 0,003991sec and on time is 0,003514 . I guess 10 out of 20 isnt the 50 % . I think 11 out of 20 would be 50 % . Anyway watching the backlight at 50 % Would reduce the flicker compared to the Min backlight setting , but ofcourse the flicker will be mostly reduced with backlight at MAX .

---

Samsung 40EH5300

Backlight at MAX
PWB is NOT absent ( at the Vaio notebook it was absent on max backlight ) , even at 20/20 backlight on the samsung there a off cycle .

Syne wave frequency is the same 133 Hz .

Backlight is OFF for 0,000794 seconds 1259,445844 Hz and ON for 0,006734 seconds 148,5001485 Hz . I do not understand why Samsung would have OFF cycle at full backlight . May be it is because they are running the LED at its maximum voltage to achieve constant color temperature and they have the off cycle as some kind of protection . I tried switching the color of the tv to neutral , cold , warm and so on it did not affect that Off cycle . turning on the Motionflow equivalent ( samsung calls if different ) makes the backlight at max look like its on 50 % so it makes it only worse . I tried everysetting and still couldnt have that off cycle removed .
EH5300 owners i would advice you to watch ur tv always at MAXIMUM backlight ( NOTE MAX backlight on the samsung is way way darker than even half of the brightness at the SONY HX750 , i guess Samsung knows that if they make a too bright display customers will turn the backlight to a more lower setting which will cause smaller on cycle and longer off cycle = more eye strain ) . Weirdly almost all presets of Samsung come at backlight set at 14/20 which is worse ( flicker wise ) to 20/20 . So i guess manifacturer advice here SUX and is not aimed for customers health .



Samsung 46B7000 - The TV is an EXPENSIVE LED from 2009 and still has a PWM and flicker but will test and update the post later , when i get access to the tv . So i guess Samsung does not care for consumers eyes health and headaces

---

NOW THE BELOVED SONY 55HX750 .


NO PWM , at Minimum or Maximum or 50 % or any backlight setting Pulse Width Modulation is ABSENT , MEANING - NO FLICKER = NO EYE STRAIN = NO HEADACES .
They use Analog control of the backlight . I have tried amplifying the signal , switching to other resistors in the circuit board of the " photodiode oscilloscope " . Anyway the only thing i was able to observe is some kind of Synchronization at 60 Hz , basicly because the display is in 1080p@60hz . Checked it with the camera with high speed shutter - the backlight doesnt turns off but there is like a small less whiter line that runs from the panel horizontally i guess it is some kind of synchronization . This will not cause any eye strain as there is no flicker .

The image below has the signal amplified and basicly i have the photodiode stuck like 1" off the TV while my previous examples had the photodiode at like 2 feet . I have done that so that synchronization will be seen. It is always seen and it does not change duration by changing backlight from min , 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9, 10(max ) . It is not something that should worry you , at least to my opinion . As that line is not the backlight being Off . Since Sony uses analog control of the LED which may be done by adding a ballast , this may be the ballast cycle , but even so that "line" ( about like 10-15 pixels height ) is barely distinguable with shutter of 1/3200 and video shot at 60hz it appears only at like a little off-whiter than the white ( its not even gray-ish ) ..

Anyway basicly you shouldnt worry for your eyes health , watching the HX750 , regarding to the backlight flicker as it is ABSENT , NONE in the HX750 .
Test is done in Shop/Retail Mode but i have also done test in Home mode ( the one that caps and limits the backlight ) . Home mode also is absent of flicker and PWM ( thought previously i said i am worried that home mode if PWM is used will be worse to your eyes health than Shop mode , here it is not the case - thought in cheeper SONY models if they USE PWM , home mode would be a terrible thing to choose ) .Also i advice using the shop(retail) mode because it removes the energy efficient capping forced by European Union and Energy star directive 642/2009
Here is that 60hz Amplified Synchronization .
Min Backlight Shop(retail) Mode


Max Backlight Shop(retail ) Mode



Min Backlight Home Mode



The higher amplitude raise in the Min Backlight compared to the Max backlight does not mean its bad , at least not something you should worry .It is because for minimum backlight the whole backlight is low , and that " synchronization " appears more contrasted also i may have put the photodiode closer than in max because of the low light emission . Again its not something to worry but anyway i advise setting of backlight to 6-8 for best picture qualty and contrast ( not cos of flicker , since flicker is absent )

There you go , if you like the information and apreciate my time spent , you can post some feedback
Edited by tcruise7771 - 3/8/13 at 2:40am

Interesting information, but I think your assertion that the flicker is seriously bad for you is scare-mongering. We have been subjected to flicker ever since the invention of artificial lighting by AC mains electricity (100Hz UK, 120Hz USA), cinematography (16/24/25 Hz), TV (25/30 Hz), etc.

I admit epileptics have a particular problem, but they tend to respond to much lower frequencies. Some subjects might notice a correlation with migraines, but I am sure we would all be aware of it if that was common. As far as I am aware there is no evidence, or even general concern, that lighting flicker at frequencies above a few tens of hertz is a problem. If you are a sufferer, my sympathy.

Seriously thinking of grabbing a UN50EH5000 from my local walmart here in Canada, but been doing a lot of research on these panel versions, and the one they have on the shelf has a number I've not see here, and I'm pretty sure I've read every page on it! It is Version: MH02 Is this good or bad?

Yesterday, I purchased the Samsung UN40EH5300 Smart LED TV from B&H, my issues is, I notice a blue effect on fast moving objects when watching anything move fast on the TV, what is it? And How do I get rid of it? Mind you I have Version:HH02, which is the Sharp panel...

I have a question. If I get the PAL version of this TV (In eu). Will it show 60Hz video games, or will it just drop every 6th frame?

that is a known issue with the sharp panel, especially on the 60Hz 5 series models

try getting a Samsung panel instead (Txxx)

I havent said it will make you blind but it will result in your eyes pupil contracted at the frequency of the PWM , even if your mind will not process it through your eye optic nerve it will make you tired . Will you feel it or not depends on the person . I am not talking for epileptics . I have posted because that flicker is invisible but its there . I have tired a Lenovo Y570 2011 Notebook and it has 14 800 Hz PWM . Also got access to the expensive at the time 46B7000 Samsung it had the same 133.17 Hz Flicker the EH5300 has . So far from everything i seen ( even old CCFL Vaio notebook has 200 hz and in CCFL PWM is acting softer on your eyes ) is higher Frequency PWM or no PWM analog controlled qualitybacklight seen in Sony HX750 for example . I guess samsung wanted it built cheep . Here example and the use of the photodiode as oscilloscope with the EH5300 and then the old Vaio thats like 6 years old :

And an image from LENOVO Y570


Again i agree with you , watching a 3D movie with active shutter glasses would result in much lower frequency your pupils will contract especially in a display with existing PWM the result will be terrible
And i will not agree for saying that 24p Movies in the cinema will be like watching a movie on a 24hz controlled backlight , Jutter is one thing and Flicker is completely other . At least i cant see any flicker in our cinemas which new digital projectors that use LCD but i admit i am not competent on cinema movie projectors

Also note i have been working over year and half on a 133 HzPWM Samsung LED with more than 10 hours a day sometimes and i had not experienced headaces , but at certain times if you reduce the backlight after a couple of hours writing code your eyes start to feel dry . While on HX750 image feels so "light" on my eyes , while if i look at the EH5300 or B7000 next to it they both feel funny and "heavy". That 133 Hz PWM makes the same feeling an old CRT display set to 85 Hz felt .

I guess the main lesson is that for the models i tested is that Samsung`s goal is for easy and cheap to manifacture display and advertise them agresively with having a nice frame design. All my Samsungs (3 LED models ) had only HDMI 1 as a DVI 1:1 pixel mapping . Sony has 1:1 mapping Full pixel on all the HDMI`s+ Digital Audio from the HDMI + They can passthrough the Doulby Digital 5.1 from the HDMI through the TV Spdif to the reciever + they didnt cut on the analog VGA D-SUB like Samsung did in 2012 .
I can have a Computer , Laptop , Xbox360 , PS3 connected to 4 HDMI ports and all of them will have 1:1 pixel mapping + HDMI audio and 5.1 passthrough
Edited by tcruise7771 - 3/10/13 at 4:10am