The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 38

I have seen it on some video's, in most videos you will not notice it.. In the movie Gladiator, I am experiencing the same as the following video is showing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aem49GvJMZY
Could anyone with an eh5000 (if possible s-pva panel) watch this scene in the movie Gladiator and post if you are seeing the same ghosting/blurring? (watch his face, it is most visible when Maximus' is walking past the soldiers)

Of course this is a pretty dark scene, I guess it might just be a VA-panel issue, not much we can do about it..

Thank you for your help, much appreciated I am pretty sure I was playing at 60fps.. I downloaded the mkv file you linked but it was hard for me to actually see a difference..

Disable the laptop screen in the multi display setup, set tv as main display only, when output to tv.
Make sure tv is receiving 1920x1080p Full HD signal, otherwise you need manually adjust hdmi resolution output in your videocard settings.

That is because of LCD panel with its "natural" low pixel response time=ghosting.
On a Plasma with fast pixel response time, the difference is apparent 60 fps is smooth as butter and the 30fps worst framedoubling and judder, more worst then on lcd as lcd blur cover the frame doubling smoother.
Thats why I got a LCD to play the 30fps console games, beside my Plasma for the 60fps (pc) games.

Ah ok, so I am not supposed to see a big difference because of the LCD technology..
I am just wondering if I got a bad panel/screen compared to others. My set seems to have quite a great amount of this trailing/smearing. Have others seen trailing on their sets? (video @ post #1108) The Trailing is visible at both bright and dark scenes.. Increasing/decreasing brightness seems to have an effect on it but its still there.
Edited by K1ckstarter - 3/14/13 at 2:28pm

I can see big difference on my native 120Hz lcd, you have a native 60Hz panel.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463282/hz-ratings-do-they-really-make-a-difference-above-120hz

The 30fps sde gives framedoubling plus blurring plus judder, can't see clear details (bus number).
On 60fps side, there is no framedoubling, minimal judder and little bit blur,, but details is visible now and with Auto Motion Plus (CMR 240Hz) can make the motion/details more clear and smoother but not perfect as plasma panel.

Read about LCD tech:
http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/lcd-motion-artifacts/
Edited by iBrad - 3/15/13 at 12:38am

Hi all, just a quick note to people scared about the "panel lottery" and a question about calibration.

I purchased the 50EH5000 and it has the Chimei panel. After reading all the posts about which panels are better I was scared to turn this thing on but I am very pleased with it. I have watched movies, basketball and hockey on it and have not experienced any motion blur and the picture is very nice. Is it as nice as my 6xxx series? no, but I only paid $699 instead of $2499

The colors looked really bright and the white was way too bright with the OOB settings, but after using chicolom's settings it looks really great now! chicolom's settings are for the samsung panel but they worked well for me with a little tweaking on the contrast and brightness.

Hi members.

Recently I have purchased UA40EH5000RXXM. It's with Samsung panel.

I am facing one problem so far, sometimes, faces of people becomes greenish( side of there face and hair color) .

I have calibrated the settings as chicolom has given in the forum. But the problem still exits.

I am using SET TOP BOX ( HD ). TATA SKY in India.

If I play HD movie from USB then, the result if mind blowing. But on SD contents from STB( some times, HD contents from STB also), gives greenish tone on faces.

So please help me to improve PQ on this set.

Thnx.

If HD movies or greyscale images don't appear to have a green tint, it could be a problem with the compression on the STB.

If greyscale images also appear to have a greenish tint though, then you will probably need to adjust the white balance settings. Unfortunately, this is one of the hardest things to do by eye (you can't really do it by eye).

Just try either raising your red and blue gain, or lowering your green gain though and see if it helps.

Thnx man.

I will try it within 1-2 hour, and let u know the result.

I've been doing exactly as you said, when hitting info button on tv it shows that signal is 1920x1080 @60Hz. There's only one display (TV) on laptop display settings when connected via HDMI. Resolution is 1920x1080. Still I see a border around the picture. This problem goes away when I select "duplicate screen" on laptops display settings, but then resolution is lower (same as laptops display). Any ideas?

Chicolom, you've been active on this thread for a while Have you seen the problem I am describing a few posts above? (video in post #1108) The point is this seems to be normal for VA-panels in dark scenes. But at my set it is present all the time, although not always that noticable. (so, not only in dark scenes)

I purchased a UE37EH5000 to replace an older (2-3 years) Samsung 32" TV and was disappointed to discover that the picture quality was inferior, very lifeless and with a limited viewing angle compared to the older TV. No amount of adjustment would bring the picture to an acceptable standard comparable to the previous one. I always buy Samsung TVs but this one is dire. Chimei panel.

What model laptop and what type videocard?
Just go through the videocard configure/options screen, there should be options about specific hdmi output settings and change them:
Maybe over/underscan option was en/disabled, displayscaler settings, RGB or YCbCr output settings etc.

You do know that LCD display (any electronics) needs settle time (break-in) also, use pixel jogger 24+hrs with contrast=max, backlight=max and brightnes=min. and see if it got better afterwards!
Otherwise get a native 120Hz (CMR 240Hz +) displays, that gives usually better images/motions.

See post #4, download the pixel jogger (30fps) 10min. in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1456693/do-lcd-leds-have-a-break-in-period-do-they-degrade-with-time/0_50

Your graphics card is under scanning the picture, probably because it thinks it's hooked up to a TV that's over scanning. Some cards do this by default over HDMI.

Look in your graphics card settings for the control for under scanning and disable it.

Yes.

Ghosting is normal with LCDs. It's an artifact of their slow pixel response time. And it's normal for ALL scenes, not just dark ones (it's just usally a little worse in dark scenes for VA type panels).

People post in this thread all the time wondering if there TV is defective because it is ghosting. Just because your LCD is ghosting does NOT mean it's defective. It's what they do.
My advice is to stop looking for it or get a different display type.

My LCD ghosts too, but it's A LOT better than my old TV, and I can live with it.

Hi yes I do know that LCDs need time to settle I have been buying Samsung LCDs for around 8 years but it was pretty obvious that this was so bad that it would never improve enough. I returned it to the retailer today. Worst picture I have ever experienced on any Samsung (I currently have 5).

I have tried the above, but nothing changes.

Chicolom, could u please suggest any calibration DVD or some other material, so what our eyes can't do, some tool will do).

Thnx.

Finally fixed overscan with my EH5000 and laptop. Main culprit is ATI radeon videocard (mobility radeon in my case). I tried installing stupid catalyst control center, but it didn't work (couldn't even install, it's terribly buggy). So after some googling i found this simple solution, that relly works and no catalyst is required:

1. Go to regedit, navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video.
2. In one of "Video" subfolders (named like long letter/number sequences) locate a folder with name 0000 or 0001 that has entry "TVEnableOverscan" in it (in the right side of regedit window)
3. Doubleclick that entry and change value to 0.
4. In the same folder where you fond that entry, add new entry (if it's not there - usually it's not) named "DigitalHDTVDefaultUnderscan" and change it's value to 0 (edit>new>dword (32bit) value).
Restart, enjoy fullscreen HD!

You tried lowering the Green gain and it didn't help at all?

What do greyscale images look like? Do they have a green tint, or do they look neutral.

It's sounding like it could be the source's fault.

I would recommend AVS HD 709 as a calibration tool, but when I said your eye's can't really do it I meant that you need a hardware meter :\

Yes, Good find!, good tweaking, Thanks for sharing the solution!

Hello,
yesterday I bought a Sasmung UE40EH5300 (european model).
Anyway the TV's fine but I'm having some problems connecting it to the PC. I connect it via an HDMI-HDMI cable. The problem is it doesn't work saying "Mode not supported". It only works when I change the Pixel Format from the Catalyst Center (I use a Sapphire 5770) to 4:2:2 . It won't work with 4:4:4. And when it does work at 4:2:2 pixels all over the screen are flickering - like sparkles or something, changing colors for parts of second. It's not that noticable because it's maybe like 10 pixels per second but still it's annoying and I definitely don't think it's normal. It hasn't happened while I used it in TV mode so I'm thinking it's either the settings or perhaps the HDMI cable? Anyway is it normal to have to switch the pixel format to 4:2:2 for the TV to work? My TV is Made in Slovakia and it says version: 01 on the back, but when I go into the service menu and find the "type" the letter after 40 is "A" which means it must be a Samsung panel. Thanks for the help in advance.

Have you tried renaming the source? (push source button, highlight your hdmi/pc connection and use the 'tools' button to change the input name to DVI or DVI PC)

I read about it but didn't know how to do it. Anyway now I've tried it but it doesn't seem to help, the TV still works only if the pixel format is set to 4:2:2. I tried renaming it to GAME, PC, PC DVI, DVI DEVICES - nothing helps. Anyway I think I fixed the flickering though - seems like the problem was that the PC was forcing higher refresh rate on the TV, but when I lowered it to 50Hz looks like it's ok. Btw my video card does have a HDMI output - so I'm using a HDMI-HDMI cable, not DVI-HDMI.
p.s. doesn't seem to be fixed - I just wasn't noticing it. Now I played a movie and I see those sparkles again...
p.s.2 I just updated to the latest firmware but it is still the same, the TV says "Mode not supported" when I switch to 4:4:4 pixel formats - there are 4 options for pixel format in the catalyst center:
YCbCr 4:4:4 Pixel Format
YCbCr 4:2:2 Pixel Format
RGB 4:4:4 Pixel Format Studio (Limited RGB)
RGB 4:4:4 Pixel Format PC Standart (Full RGB)

only the "YCbCr 4:2:2 Pixel Format" works for me. If I select any of the others (The YCbCr 4:4:4 Pixel Format is selected by default so I was getting Mode not supported until I changed it...) the TV says Mode not supported and that's all. It's still visible as a connected device on the PC but that's about it. The resolution I am running at is 1920x1080 at 60Hz - I tried at 50Hz but it doesn't seem to work good, so I'm guessing 60Hz is the right frequency.
p.s.3 another thing I just noticed O.o - My TV type used to be 40A6AF0D, but now after the firmware update it shows up as 40R6AF0D
p.s.4 ok seems like from the service menu you can actually change the TYPE so I guess I accidentally changed it cause I clicked on it a few times now I changed it back to 40A6AF0D. But anyway how can you actually be sure you've got a Samsung panel if this option can be changed - maybe at the stores they know ppl look for Samsung panels and can change them from the service menu?
Edited by S4nDr0 - 3/16/13 at 8:43am

Could be the "bad" hdmi cable, in my case with a highend v1.4 hdmi cable, random pixel noise/sparkles was showing up, until I change it with a cheap v1.3 cable.

Use TV HDMI1 port, rename to PC:
Change (1.3) hdmi cable, still problems then use following trouble shooting:
Set your videocard hdmi resolution output to 1280x720@60Hz and check if TV displaying it correctly, is ok, then advance further with higher resolution in steps and switch the colorspace etc.
When there is still problems in the highest resolution, then still bad hdmi cable or defective videocard, connect to other tv/monitor to verify.

OK, I will replace the cable and tell you if it fixed the problem. Anyway I also have a problem with the Smart HUB - it keeps updating and installing whatever apps it wants to. I don't want no apps there except for youtube and may be skype, but it keeps filling my screen with some PPV and VOD apps... is there a way to fix this bug apart from calling the service and replacing the mainboard (that's what I read in another forum - that it is a very common software bug but they can't reinstall the software so they have to replace the mainboard).

Hi chicolom.

Grey scale images are appeared to be neutral.

I think problem lies with my STB as it is broadcasting/receiving 1080i signal and TV is supporting 1080p signal.

Could it be the problem???? if so, is there any solution for it??

thnx for your help.

Can anyone assist me in my query?

Recently, I purchased a Samsung UE32EH5000 and have optimised the picture settings as per the advice on here. I have a PS3 connected in HDMI 2, I've also changed HDMI 1 name to PC and have my desktop PC hooked up to it.

My question is this, is it possible to use the AV L/R audio ports to play sound through the TV from my PC? I have it connected at the moment but no joy, just wondering if it is possible and if there's something I am doing wrong?

The PC is currently connected TV HDMI to PC DVI.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 5000 in use elsewhere, and my own 5000 coming in the next few days, so I will be able to experiment, but I gather from what you are saying you want to take the PC DVI output (which does not have sound) and connect it to the TV HDMI, but route the PC's analogue sound through the AV inputs.

I have to say I think you are unlikely to be successful, as the HDMI will also be expected to be the sound source. You either need to upgrade the PC to HDMI, or use an analogue video connection to go with the sound.