Originally Posted by chicolom UN40EH5000 Calibration Settings(I'll update this post whenever I update my settings)
I have three different calibration settings for the three modes I use: "Standard
" and "PC mode
" (which is what I call renaming the input to "PC" - eliminates subsampling and enables 4:4:4 capability).
All three modes have been calibrated to look the same.* indicates where the settings diverge some in order to accommodate for differences in processing for each mode.Pictures Settings
- Backlight: 20 on all (adjust for your own room conditions).
- Contrast: 92 on all
- Brightness: 45 on Movie/"PC". I use 46 on "Standard" to compensate for the gamma shift caused by the automatic backlight dimming.
- * Sharpness: 50 on "PC mode", 0-10 on "Movie/Standard" (your personal preference on those modes. I use 5)
- * Color: 50 on "PC mode (can't change it)", 53 on "Movie", and 41 on "Standard" mode
- Tint: 50/50 on all
- Color Space: Auto on all ("native" does horrible things to the greens)
- * White Balance: R-Gain: 8, G-Gain: 25, B-Gain:27 on "Standard" Mode, "PC" Mode & "Movie" Mode both use R-Gain: 22, G-Gain: 39, B-Gain: 41
- Gamma: -1 on all
- Dynamic Contrast: Off on all
- Black Tone: Off on all
- Flesh Tone: 0 on all
- Motion Lighting: Off on all, BUT the effect of this setting (dynamic backlight adjustment based on the percentage of black on screen) is always present on "Standard" mode anyways (also same for "Game Mode"), and I see no way to disable it. Movie and PC mode the automatic backlight dimming is disabled and motion lighting is greyed-out.
- Color Tone: Warm 2 on all.
- * Size: 16:9 on "PC mode", Screen Fit on all other modes. These are the 1:1 ratios for this TV.
- Digital Noise Filter: Off
- HDMI Black Level: Depends on the source. It will be greyed out with a YCbCr signal - If it's greyed out you don't have to mess with it. With an RGB signal "Black Level: Normal" matches full range 0-255 signals, and "Black Level: Low" matches limited range 16-235 signals. Further explanation on full range vs limited range below...
- LED Motion Plus: Off Led motion enables or disables backlight scanning. This intentionally flickers the backlight with the intention of reducing motion blur, but it also cuts the light output/brightness in half.
Keep in mind these settings are for a Samsung S-PVA panel.
______________________________Notes:Explanation of Basic Calibration, as well as limited range (16-235) vs full range (0-255) RGB signals. (Click to show)
Full Range 0-255 signal vs Limited Range 16-235:
8 bit RGB displays show 255 different values. So that's where the 0-255 comes from. 0 is pure black and 255 is pure white. This is what computers render at.
Videos, whether broadcast over cable or on a disc like blu ray compress that 0-255 range down to 16-235. They remap it so that 16 becomes pure black and 235 becomes pure white (instead of 0 and 255). If the TV isn't set to look for that "limited" range, it will keep looking for blacks and whites to spread across the entire 0-255 range. This is mismatched and the picture will quality will show it.
On the Samsungs, the "Black Level" adjustment controls this range. "Normal" sets the TV to 0-255, and "low" sets the TV to 16-235. It is only adjustable with an RGB
signal, because RGB has the option of outputting at either limited range (16-235) or full range (0-255), while a YCbCr
signal is always
limited range. This is why the "Black Level" greys out when you have a YCbCr signal - the TV automatically sets itself to limited range as it knows YCbCr can only
be limited range.
The majority of sources hooked up to a TV use the YCbCr color space by default (cable boxes, blu ray players). This is why most people will have the black level adjustment greyed out on their TV.
RGB is more likely to be used by a computer. Game consoles can use it too, but you sometimes have to go out of your way to turn it on.
Here is another way to think about it:
It's like trying to fit something into a box that's either too small, too big, or just right.
If the "box" (aka the TV) is too small
(0-255 source signal going into a 16-235 TV) the corners get clipped off. The TV has set pure black to be at 16 even though the source is still outputting different shades all the way down to 0. The TV doesn't care though, and turns the 0-16 shades all into black. Same thing for the shades above 235 - the TV turns them all white even if there is information up there from the source. This is when you get crushed blacks and clipped whites.
If the "box" is too big
(16-235 source signal into a 0-255 TV) there's a lot of wasted space that doesn't get used. This is when the blacks become dark grey and the picture washes out. The source wants the pure black to be up at 16, but the TV wants it down at 0, and the TV wins. Just like the Honey Badger, the TV doesn't care. So 16 ends up displaying as dark grey on the TV, even though the source thinks 16 is actually pure black. Result = washed out picture.
If the box is just right and a perfect fit (a 16-235 source signal going into a 16-235 TV... OR, a 0-255 source going into a 0-255 TV) it then fills up all the space perfectly without clipping any corners or having extra wasted space not being used. The picture uses up all the available space without going over and clipping off the corners (blacks and whites) or going under and becoming washed out.Basic Calibration
By the way, this ^ ("The picture uses up all the available space without going over and clipping off the corners (blacks and whites) or going under and becoming washed out.")
is the same premise behind basic calibration
. You want to set the white point to be as as white as possible without going over and clipping highlight information and without going under and washing out. You do this by adjusting contrast
. You want to set the black point to be as black/dark as possible without going too low and crushing dark information or going too high and washing out (turning blacks dark grey). You do this by adjusting brightness
. You want the color range to be as colorful as possible without going too high and clipping information (highest color shades blend together instead of being distinct) or going too low and washing out the colors. You do this by adjusting color
. So on and so forth. You want to fill up all of the dynamic range that the TV has, as closely as possible, without going over or under.
This basic calibration stuff you can usually do by eye. You can look at patterns and see where it starts to clip information and set it just below that level. More advanced calibration involves adjusting the accuracy of the color, the greyscale color temperature, the gamma curve, etc. These things are harder to do by eye, which is why people use meters and software to help out.
I switch between PC, Movie, and Standard modes depending on what I'm watching. I have them all setup to look essentially identical to each other. I use PC for...monitor/PC use. Movie for TV. And Standard for gaming, and also for some movies/shows that have a lot of dark scenes (where the automatic backlight dimming is more beneficial)
I like to use AVS HD 709
to calibrate. I also used a blue filter for color/tint.Good guidelines for doing a basic calibration
, by PlasmaPZ80U.
[*] When renaming input to "PC", sharpness of 50 is the ideal setting, as anything above causes artifacts and anything below blurs pixels together. When not renaming input and on "Movie" mode, subsampling is turned on and the sharpness is more difficult to set. I don't recommend going above 15, and ideally somewhere between 0-10 would be better.
Differences between "Standard" mode and "Movie" mode.
1) Standard has always-on automatic backlight dimming, also known as "motion lighting" in the menus. The backlight dimming seems to happen on YCbCr signals as well as RGB full range
, but not RGB limited range.In Movie mode backlight dimming is disabled completely (except for a pure black screen, where it will also shut off the backlight).
2) Standard has stronger color saturation, approximately 12 points more than Movie mode.
3) Standard has a higher white point (contrast), approximately 6 points more than Movie mode.
Turning up white balance R, G, & B gains simultaneously has the same effect as raising the contrast control (both raise the white point). So, calibrating "PC mode" and "Movie" mode to have the same contrast setting as "Standard" mode is possible
, but it requires is that you turn up the R-G-B drives simultaneously - which is what I did above in my white balance settings.
- Some adjustment options are disabled when renaming an input to "PC".
- It is recommend to disable dynamic contrast, digital noise filter, and black tone as those controls are likely to screw up any calibration and degrade the picture.
- "Color Space: Native" over-saturates colors - "Auto" is recommended instead.
- "Game Mode" initially has horrible settings, with excessive sharpness, bad colors, and "dynamic contrast" enabled. Once you tune it down though, it behaves identically to "Standard" mode. It doesn't seem to change the input lag though (at least on the EH5000), so I'm not sure what exactly it's doing - and why Samsung thinks it "degrades the picture quality". It's possible that "Game mode" is simply an extra picture mode with no effect on processing, and the warnings are just a universal disclaimer to cover their higher end models where it actually does changes the processing...
__________________________________Input Lag Results:Input Lag Test Results (Click to show)
Here are my input lag test results for a Samsung UN40EH5000 (with Version TS02 S-PVA panel). Photos were taken at 1/1000 of a second, and the control screen is my laptop's TN display.
Average input lag appears to be 2 frames
ms.There isn't a substantial difference between having Game Mode ON or OFF from what I can see.
Game Mode ON:
50ms, 31ms, 50ms, 10ms, 37ms, 17ms, 34ms, 0ms ( zero?)
Normal (Game Mode OFF):
33ms, 16ms, 34ms, 32ms, 16ms, 50ms, 34ms, 32ms, 35msPC Mode (Renaming input to "PC", also allows 4:4:4 display):
20ms, 32ms, 33ms, 34ms, 39ms, 50ms, 17ms, 33ms, 51ms, 16ms, 17ms, 17ms, 35ms, 34ms, 16ms