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The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 52

post #1531 of 2167
Yes, those ripples are analogue line echoes caused by impedance mismatches. The termination at the receiving end has to be a perfect match for the impedance of the cable, so it is not the TV's fault with no control over the cable in use. If analogue was good enough for high pixel rate video, HDMI wouldn't have been developed - digital interfaces eliminate all distortions in the transmission medium, until the distortions prevent any fidelity at all.
post #1532 of 2167
Advanced Settings:

Color Space: Auto on all ("native" does horrible things to the greens)
* White Balance: R-Gain: 8, G-Gain: 25, B-Gain:27 on "Standard" Mode, "PC" Mode & "Movie" Mode both use R-Gain: 22, G-Gain: 39, B-Gain: 41
Gamma: -1 on all
Dynamic Contrast: Off on all
Black Tone: Off on all
Flesh Tone: 0 on all
Motion Lighting: Off on all, BUT the effect of this setting (dynamic backlight adjustment based on the percentage of black on screen) is always present on "Standard" mode anyways (also same for "Game Mode"), and I see no way to disable it. Movie and PC mode the automatic backlight dimming is disabled and motion lighting is greyed-out.

Do i leave the offsets on default? i dont see any?
post #1533 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuardian View Post

Yes, Plasma, that is exactly my issue. Thank you so much for confirming it's the input type. I can rest a little easier until the cables get here now. biggrin.gif

I ordered some cheap on Amazon, I live in the middle of nowhere, and the cheapest I could find in a store was like $13. rolleyes.gif Not expensive compared to the TV, but given what I've already spent, I'll take the cheaper option. tongue.gif

I like monoprice.com for cables
post #1534 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by crashbot View Post

Yes, those ripples are analogue line echoes caused by impedance mismatches. The termination at the receiving end has to be a perfect match for the impedance of the cable, so it is not the TV's fault with no control over the cable in use. If analogue was good enough for high pixel rate video, HDMI wouldn't have been developed - digital interfaces eliminate all distortions in the transmission medium, until the distortions prevent any fidelity at all.

I remember reading somewhere in the EH 6 series thread that the component inputs on modern HDTVs have become worse compared to those on HDTVs of say, 5 year ago or longer... mainly because, most use HDMI at this point for HD sources and now the connection is there only for devices that have only analog video outputs.

FWIW, these component inputs can do 480i/p without significant issues, but HD is problematic (especially 720p and 1080p... 1080i fares better)
post #1535 of 2167
I am doing some comparisons playing Last of Us and Skyrim (PS3) on this vs. my old 26" 720p LCD. And the LCD wins out.

One thing my ln26b460 wins on is dark mode. I will NOT play with dark mode off. When in a dark room I want it to be dark, not grey and washed out. And no matter what I adjust the brightness and other things to I cannot get it to look acceptable. On the 32 LED dark walls appear just completely black. However on my 26 LCD on almost the exact same settings, I can see a bit of the texture in the wall. This is the effect I am going for, and I Just cannot replicate it on the LED.

I think the Size of the 26" is perferable too for my viewing distance (3 feet) because the textures and graphics just appear nicer on the 26". I bought this for the PS4 eventually since (hopefully) all games will be in 1080p. But as it is right now, I just don't know what to do. I wish they still made LCDs, or even 26-28" LEDs because I think 32" is just a bit much for what I'm aiming for.

UN29F4000 is 29" but only 720p
UN22F5000 I might really like, it's 1080p and small, but 22" might be a bit too small.

Any alternatives out there? Looking for LCD if possible, 24ish - 29ish inches, 1080p, good dark mode and "black level" options to tinker with.
post #1536 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

FWIW, these component inputs can do 480i/p without significant issues, but HD is problematic (especially 720p and 1080p... 1080i fares better)
Not much surprise about 480, that's old-school resolution / pixel rate. I am surprised about 1080i, unless that is also half the frame rate.
post #1537 of 2167
HDMI fixed it right up! Things also look ever so slightly sharper, and I have more options now both on my console and my TV's settings, but other than that I don't see a huge change.

There is one other problem I've noticed though, things with deep bass sound horrible, the noise comes out extremely distorted. Not sure if it's because the sound is in 'movie mode', but since game mode locks movie mode on by default it's a little annoying. Is this a problem with all these, or is it just mine? Thanks in advance, and thanks again for help originally!
post #1538 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by demo23019 View Post

I need help this is so confusing someone please explain why when i watch movies threw my PC HDMI dynamic and standard on dark scenes and movie credits the screen dims
But watching TV threw HDMI on standard and dynamic *all the same setting* on dark scene and credits the screen doesn't dim ?

I understand pc mode itself doesn't dim but when i use XBMC and set it to match my video refresh rate this unlocks standard and dynamic settings while watching movies i dont want it to dim though i want it to be like when i watch normal TV for some reason my screen doesn't dim.

Just a follow up on this i finally figured out how to stop this TV from auto dimming when watching movies from PC.

When i was doing ton of research before i read people had luck with other Samsung TV by turning up the brightness threw the TV but this doesn't do anything it would still auto dims.

You have to actually go into your PC video card settings and increase the brightness for your TV i set mine to 57 and this stopped the TV from auto dimming.
Then just adjust your TV settings accordingly.

luckily my cable box is fine and don't experience this crap when watching tv.
Edited by demo23019 - 7/24/13 at 10:28am
post #1539 of 2167
Hi,

I've got a 46EH5000 since a week and i would like to know if the dark lines i see on bright scenes is normal or not ? Some people in this thread seem to have the same problem, other not.
I've got the "Version 01" (samsung panel ?).



That doesn't bother me that much if it doesn't get worse, aprt from this the overall quality is really good.

I can return the tv to amazon but at the risk to not have the same tv (at the price i've got this one i would have to choose a 32" instead, no more stock it seems).

Thanks
post #1540 of 2167
I get this too on a UN40EH5000FXZA. I suppose it has to do with the systems backlighting. Something that will be/is un-correctable.
post #1541 of 2167
I was thinking about the backlighting, but it seems to depend on panels too. Do you know what panel is on yours ? Does the banding get worse with the time ? Does it affect the life of the TV ?
If not, no problem for me.

Sorry for my english, hope it's not too painful to read...
post #1542 of 2167
I have a TS01 Samsung panel - no it doesn't get worse over time. Yet.

I understand you fine smile.gif
post #1543 of 2167
I got rid of My 40EH5300 for the 40ES6100, a huge difference in picture quality and clarity. Recently I swapped my ES6100 out for a 46F6300. Obviously the screen is better, but the colors and PQ is fantastic.

Im a big plasma guy, so I was pleasantly surprised by the F6300. also 46 inch 6300 for $699 at amazon, Cant beat that. the 40ES6100 a couple months back was selling for 680 at sams club.

Smart hub 2.0 is awesome (Flash storage increased from 5xx MB, to 1.5GB, Much quicker with the dual core, Netflix doesnt lag or give me any loading issues so far. Being able to control my cable box with the IR blaster is pretty sweet too.
post #1544 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuardian View Post

HDMI fixed it right up! Things also look ever so slightly sharper, and I have more options now both on my console and my TV's settings, but other than that I don't see a huge change.

There is one other problem I've noticed though, things with deep bass sound horrible, the noise comes out extremely distorted. Not sure if it's because the sound is in 'movie mode', but since game mode locks movie mode on by default it's a little annoying. Is this a problem with all these, or is it just mine? Thanks in advance, and thanks again for help originally!

you don't need to use game mode on these TVs, it doesn't really improve input lag (which is a non-issue on to begin with on the 5 series)... you can try labeling the HDMI input as "PC" though as an alternative (though it's really not necessary for console gaming)
post #1545 of 2167
QQ: I just picked up a 5300. Does anyone know if this works with Directv using the RVU? I can see the TV through my DirecTV account, but it doesn't do anything and the service rep tried a bunch of stuff on their end and it didn't work...
post #1546 of 2167
Really? I'm really starting to think I was too worried about ghosting and not enough about input lag when looking for a TV. My brother pretty much only plays Call of Duty... normally he's freaking amazing on it, but since we've got these TV's we've both not really been playing to our usual potential. Originally I thought it was just getting used to the screen in general, possibly combined with the normal flow of 'bad games'. I've been gaming on a much smaller TV myself, and neither of us have had widescreen... then I noticed a sound delay from the TV vs my audio headset. We were both using CRT's before this, which is like 0 input lag from my understanding...

So it lead me to look into input lag, and EH5300 is listed as 25-28 MS? How does that compare to other TV's on the market in this price range? Does the 'naming port to PC' trick help any more than 'game mode'? I don't mind the frame or two of lag really, I can hardly notice it, but I also recommended this TV to my brother, who is usually pretty stellar at these fast paced FPS games, and I'd hate to find out that was a poor decision.

Thanks in advance for continued help!
post #1547 of 2167
You have to remember that, for its primary design goal, the lag on a TV is not relevant (as long as there is a similar lag in the audio path). HDMI has an inherent lag which may be a few frames - the computer's display adapter probably has a pair of frame buffers, one for updating and the other for output, then the content of the frame buffer is serialised across the HDMI (which takes one frame time), so there is an output lag in the video card. Then in the display (TV or monitor) the completed frame is passed on to the display rasteriser (possibly via an upscaler).

There is no way an HDMI-connected LCD monitor/TV can compete for lag with an analogue-connected CRT, but a monitor specifically designed for the purpose will probably have a much better performance than a TV (and size-for-size cost a lot more).
post #1548 of 2167
Not for normal viewing, but for gaming it's crucial.

mid 20s isn't that bad for input lag. Here's a db with the various models and their lag (http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/#participants-list)

I haven't played with this TV yet, but make sure that, if there is a game mode, turn it on. Also, turn off all of the picture enhancements that may be on. All of them add lag.

My guess is as well with the TV being new, it's taking some time to get used to it. I switch off between a 50" plasma and projector and it always takes me awhile to adjust... (FWIW, others have also commented that being on larger screens has an affect on their performance.)
post #1549 of 2167
Hello all, I have the Samsung UN39EH5003 39-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED HDTV (which is pretty much the EH5000) and i've been pulling my hair out for a month trying too calibrate my TV perfectly for gaming.

Please Note:
1. I use my TV strictly for Xbox 360 use only
2. I prefer HDMI over PC mode due too better picture quality
3. My goal is the optimal setting for best picture and no input lag.
4. My main problem at this time is that reds on my screen are very promanant. Yellows look like Orange and the only thing that seems too fix this is raising the green offset which causes blacks and whites too tint green. Its just a mess


My current settings:
(I have put a ? next too the settings I am not sure or or constantly fiddling with.)

Game mode: on

backlight 20
contrast 90
Brightness 45 ?
Sharpness 25 ?
Color 50
Tint G55/R45 ?

Color space: auto
white balance:
Red offset: 19 ?
Green offset: 25 ?
Blue offset: 25 ?
Red gain: 5 ?
Green gain: 15 ?
Blue gain: 30 ?

Color tone: warm1 ??
Screen fit
Gamma +1 ? (seems too work pretty well)
Digital Noise Filter: On ??
Black lvl low ?
Other stuff off

Turning Digital noise filter off seems too make things sharper but I don't like the static it causes so I keep it on. Even with these settings my color still isint right. I went so far as too use the HDMI output on my laptop too try and fix it by doing side by side comparison and these settings were the best I can come up with but I ether have too much red or too much green.

Any help would be appreciated because I'm super OCD and color sensitive. (The pain of being an artist)
Thanks ^^

P.S. are there any settings in the Xbox itself I should do?
post #1550 of 2167
You could try and use a calibration disk like the free AVS HD709 (use the Search feature to find it) or buy a commercial one like the 2nd Edition of Spears & Munsil. You won't actually be calibrating your set because you need meters and special software for that but you can at least set the "basics" (brightness, contrast, sharpness, aspect, and color). Keep in mind that game mfrs don't have to follow the rec.709 standards (of which the calibration disks are for) but it should improve your pq somewhat. The disks are for blu-ray players and I would turn off all artificial enhancements on the tv and the blu-ray player when adjusting your set.
post #1551 of 2167
Dont know if you're replying too me but I don't have a Blu ray player. I just want to set the optimal picture settings manually. I'm close but when on the default white balance and Tint 50/50 everything's way too red.
post #1552 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gidrah View Post

3. My goal is the optimal setting for best picture and no input lag.
Fat chance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjr39 View Post

Not for normal viewing, but for gaming it's crucial.
I accept that, but it amazes me that people think a budget TV is designed for anything other than watching TV. It may well have other functions, because not to have other functions would put it at a market disadvantage, but the other functions are going to have compromises compared with equipment designed for those purposes (and a lot more expensive). It seems ridiculous to buy a TV based on price and then complain about its HDMI input lag - if lag is the most important thing to you, buy a TV/monitor based on lag specification (and if lag is not specified, don't buy it).
Edited by crashbot - 7/31/13 at 1:06am
post #1553 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gidrah View Post

Dont know if you're replying too me but I don't have a Blu ray player. I just want to set the optimal picture settings manually. I'm close but when on the default white balance and Tint 50/50 everything's way too red.

I was responding to your post. I thought the XBox 360 was a blu-ray player in addition to it being a game box. My mistake. Adjusting by eye for games is next to impossible because one, your eyes are not accurate in the sense of the rec.709 standards and two, and I mentioned, games don't have to follow any sort of industry video standards. Using someone else's settings may not work either because of the inherent differences between tv's (even the same make and model), viewing environment, etc. Your only real option is to fiddle with the settings until you find something that is acceptable, or find a way to adjust your settings to rec.709 standards and leave it.
post #1554 of 2167
I just bought a UN32EH5300F. The main feature that interested me was the 3 timers. I was disappointed to discover that the "On Timers" only work when the set is off. On my previous sets (RCA and Sony) the timer would change the channel at the specified time even if the set was already on. Is there any way to achieve this functionality with the 5300?
post #1555 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by rperlberg View Post

I just bought a UN32EH5300F. The main feature that interested me was the 3 timers. I was disappointed to discover that the "On Timers" only work when the set is off. On my previous sets (RCA and Sony) the timer would change the channel at the specified time even if the set was already on. Is there any way to achieve this functionality with the 5300?

What about setting an "Off Timer" to 1 minute before the "On Timer"?
post #1556 of 2167
Just bought one from BB; to be used with U-Verse primarily second XBox. Any one post settings for these sources?? Thank you!
post #1557 of 2167
hi guys bought samsung led 5300 a few days back.
when i play a movie using a usb and then remove the usb and then delete the movie from the usb using my laptop, i am still able to play video in the tv without it being in the usb. ithink it gets stored somewhere in the tv and you have to delete it one by one to remove it. i want to know if there is a way i can delete them all?
post #1558 of 2167
hi guys bought samsung led 5300 a few days back.
when i play a movie using a usb and then remove the usb and then delete the movie from the usb using my laptop, i am still able to play video in the tv without it being in the usb. ithink it gets stored somewhere in the tv and you have to delete it one by one to remove it. i want to know if there is a way i can delete them all?
post #1559 of 2167
hi guys bought samsung led 5300 a few days back.
when i play a movie using a usb and then remove the usb and then delete the movie from the usb using my laptop, i am still able to play video in the tv without it being in the usb. ithink it gets stored somewhere in the tv and you have to delete it one by one to remove it. i want to know if there is a way i can delete them all?
post #1560 of 2167
Happen to have settings for non gaming on this set - source is UVerse. Thanks!
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