Originally Posted by chicolom
Here is my calibration settings.
On HDMI 1....
1) Rename HDMI input to "PC
" to eliminate subsampling and enable 4:4:4 capability, the calibrate from "Standard
2) If you don't rename the input, I recommend calibrating from "Movie
" mode, as it's the most accurate preset. "Standard" is the next best, but see my notes on it below *Pictures Settings
- Backlight: 20
- Contrast: 100
- Brightnes: 45
- Sharpness: 50 on "PC/Standard" mode, 0-10 on "Movie" mode (without renaming input)
- Color: 50
- Color Space: Auto
- Gamma: 0
- Dynamic Contrast: Off
- Black Tone: Off
- Flesh Tone: 0
- Color Tone: Warm 1, or Warm 2 (Whichever your prefer. I prefer Warm 1 as a slightly cooler image "pops" a bit more.)
- Size: 16:9 on "PC/Standard" mode (this is 1:1 with no overscan IF it's on "PC/Standard" 16:9 on "movie" mode is NOT 1:1 and has overscan), Screen Fit on "Movie" mode (1:1 pixel ratio)
- Digital Noise Filter: Off
- HDMI Black Level: If your source is outputting YCbCr, it will be outputting video levels(16-235), and HDMI Black Level will be greyed out - you don't have to worry about it. If your source is outputting RGB (some game consoles) Normal will then be for 0-255, and Low will be for 16-235. it should be obvious if you have it set incorrectly (it will either be washed out, or crushing blacks and whites).
- LED Motion Plus: Off
Keep in mind these settings are for a Samsung S-PVA panel.Notes:
I like to use AVS HD 709
You'll notice that many of my settings don't stray from the default. That's because this TV is set pretty accurate out of the box.
- This TV is not excessively bright, so maxing out the backlight at 20 is OK.
- Contrast at 100 is OK because it doesn't cause clipping of the highest white values.
- Brightness of 45 (default) has good shadow detail and succesfully shows down to black level 17 while cutting off 16 and everything below it - as it should.
- I don't have a blue filter, but color of 50 looks pretty good if your on the two accurate modes I mentioned above. The other modes, including "Standard" (no input renaming) have innaccurate colors.
- When renaming input to "PC", sharpness of 50 is the ideal setting, as anything above causes artifacts and anything below blurs pixels together. When not renaming input and on "Movie" mode, subsampling is turned on and the sharpness is more difficult to set. Certain pixels are blurred and don't respond well to test patterns.
* I noticed a couple interesting differences between "Standard" mode and "Movie" Mode. "Standard" has more color saturation, and it also has more contrast - meaning the white values clip a little sooner. This is OK though, because it still doesn't clip levels 234 or below when contrast (white point) is set to 100. The other difference I noticed is that "Standard" mode has some automatic backlight dimming when the picture is primarily filled with black. So during credits scenes and such, the backlight will dim a bit to give the perception of deeper blacks. I haven't seen a way to turn this off yet, but luckily the amount of backlight dimming is fairly subtle, and it only does it when the screen has a nearly all black image anyways. I think it's OK to use standard, but I would at least dial back the color a bit so it's more realistic (around 38 or so).
I wouldn't recommend using the "Dynamic" or "Entertain" modes as those aren't very accurate. "Movie" mode is also more accurate than "Standard" mode, but once you rename an HDMI input to "PC", the "Standard" mode changes and behaves differently - becoming accurate again, like "Movie" mode.
Once you've renamed an HDMI input to "PC", you then have only two picture modes: "Standard" and "Entertain". The "Standard" mode on a renamed "PC" input is different
from the regular "Standard" mode (without renaming the input). It behaves similar to "Movie" mode once it's been renamed.
Some options are disabled when renaming an input to "PC".
Settings like "Dynamic Contrast" and "Black Tone" just end up crushing blacks and shadow detail. If you want crushed blacks/shadow detail, just buy a cheaper TV. Same with "Flesh Tone" which makes people sunburned. "Color Space: Native" over-saturates colors - "Auto" is recommended instead. "LED Motion Plus" is OK in theory, but it reduces the backlight brightness to an unacceptable level IMO.
Don't make the TV fight with itself by turning on modes that crush blacks (dynamic contrast) then raising the brightness to counter that and un-crush the blacks. That's like taking a photo in photoshop and blurring it then sharpening it again. You lose detail.
"Game Mode" initially has horrible settings, with excessive sharpness, bad colors, and "dynamic contrast" enabled. Once you tune it down, it behaves exactly like "Standard" mode - which means it still oversaturates colors slightly. It doesn't seem to have an affect at reducing input lag. It does something with the audio, but I don't use the TV speakers so I don't know. If you rename an input to "PC", "Game Mode" becomes greyed out.
Input Lag Test Results
Here are my input lag test results for a Samsung UN40EH5000 (with Version TS02 S-PVA panel). Photos were taken at 1/1000 of a second, and the control screen is my laptop's TN display.
Average input lag appears to be 2 frames
ms. Occasionally it pulls of 1 frame @ ~ 16-17 ms. Less occasionally it takes 3 frames @~50ms.There isn't a substantial difference between having Game Mode ON or OFF from what I can see.
Game Mode ON:
50ms, 31ms, 50ms, 10ms, 37ms, 17ms, 34ms, 0ms ( zero?)
Normal (Game Mode OFF):
33ms, 16ms, 34ms, 32ms, 16ms, 50ms, 34ms, 32ms, 35msPC Mode (Renaming input to "PC", also allows 4:4:4 display):
20ms, 32ms, 33ms, 34ms, 39ms, 50ms, 17ms, 33ms, 51ms, 16ms, 17ms, 17ms, 35ms, 34ms, 16ms