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The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 12

post #331 of 1395
9/3/12 at 9:12pm
I noticed a couple more interesting differences between "Standard" mode and "Movie" Mode.
  1. First, "Standard" has more color saturation (11 points more) - so "Movie" mode set to Color: 50 is equivalent to "Standard" mode Color: 39.
  2. Second, Standard mode has more contrast (6 points more), so "Movie" mode Contrast: 100 is equivalent to "Standard" mode Contrast: 94. This is extra contrast is OK though, because it still doesn't clip levels 234 or below when contrast (white point) is set to 100.
  3. The third difference I noticed is that "Standard" mode has some automatic backlight dimming when the picture is primarily filled with black. So during credits scenes and such, the backlight will dim a bit to give the perception of deeper blacks. I haven't seen a way to turn this off yet, but luckily the amount of backlight dimming is fairly subtle, and it only does it when the screen has a nearly all black image anyways. I think it's OK to use standard, but I would at least dial back the color a bit so it's more realistic (around 39 or so).

"Standard" and "Movie" mode can be made to look identical to each other, apart from the auto-backlight dimming.

Added this information to my post on Calibration
Edited by chicolom - 9/3/12 at 9:37pm
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post #332 of 1395
9/3/12 at 9:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

Here is my calibration settings.
On HDMI 1....
Either,
1) Rename HDMI input to "PC" to eliminate subsampling and enable 4:4:4 capability, the calibrate from "Standard" mode.
Or,
2) If you don't rename the input, I recommend calibrating from "Movie" mode, as it's the most accurate preset. "Standard" is the next best, but see my notes on it below *
Pictures Settings
  • Backlight: 20
  • Contrast: 100
  • Brightnes: 45
  • Sharpness: 50 on "PC/Standard" mode, 0-10 on "Movie" mode (without renaming input)
  • Color: 50
Advanced Settings:
  • Color Space: Auto
  • Gamma: 0
  • Dynamic Contrast: Off
  • Black Tone: Off
  • Flesh Tone: 0

Picture Options:
  • Color Tone: Warm 1, or Warm 2 (Whichever your prefer. I prefer Warm 1 as a slightly cooler image "pops" a bit more.)
  • Size: 16:9 on "PC/Standard" mode (this is 1:1 with no overscan IF it's on "PC/Standard" 16:9 on "movie" mode is NOT 1:1 and has overscan), Screen Fit on "Movie" mode (1:1 pixel ratio)
  • Digital Noise Filter: Off
  • HDMI Black Level: If your source is outputting YCbCr, it will be outputting video levels(16-235), and HDMI Black Level will be greyed out - you don't have to worry about it. If your source is outputting RGB (some game consoles) Normal will then be for 0-255, and Low will be for 16-235. it should be obvious if you have it set incorrectly (it will either be washed out, or crushing blacks and whites).
  • LED Motion Plus: Off

Keep in mind these settings are for a Samsung S-PVA panel.
Notes:
I like to use AVS HD 709 to calibrate.
You'll notice that many of my settings don't stray from the default. That's because this TV is set pretty accurate out of the box.
  • This TV is not excessively bright, so maxing out the backlight at 20 is OK.
  • Contrast at 100 is OK because it doesn't cause clipping of the highest white values.
  • Brightness of 45 (default) has good shadow detail and succesfully shows down to black level 17 while cutting off 16 and everything below it - as it should.
  • I don't have a blue filter, but color of 50 looks pretty good if your on the two accurate modes I mentioned above. The other modes, including "Standard" (no input renaming) have innaccurate colors.
  • When renaming input to "PC", sharpness of 50 is the ideal setting, as anything above causes artifacts and anything below blurs pixels together. When not renaming input and on "Movie" mode, subsampling is turned on and the sharpness is more difficult to set. Certain pixels are blurred and don't respond well to test patterns.
* I noticed a couple interesting differences between "Standard" mode and "Movie" Mode. "Standard" has more color saturation, and it also has more contrast - meaning the white values clip a little sooner. This is OK though, because it still doesn't clip levels 234 or below when contrast (white point) is set to 100. The other difference I noticed is that "Standard" mode has some automatic backlight dimming when the picture is primarily filled with black. So during credits scenes and such, the backlight will dim a bit to give the perception of deeper blacks. I haven't seen a way to turn this off yet, but luckily the amount of backlight dimming is fairly subtle, and it only does it when the screen has a nearly all black image anyways. I think it's OK to use standard, but I would at least dial back the color a bit so it's more realistic (around 38 or so).
I wouldn't recommend using the "Dynamic" or "Entertain" modes as those aren't very accurate. "Movie" mode is also more accurate than "Standard" mode, but once you rename an HDMI input to "PC", the "Standard" mode changes and behaves differently - becoming accurate again, like "Movie" mode.
Once you've renamed an HDMI input to "PC", you then have only two picture modes: "Standard" and "Entertain". The "Standard" mode on a renamed "PC" input is different from the regular "Standard" mode (without renaming the input). It behaves similar to "Movie" mode once it's been renamed.
Some options are disabled when renaming an input to "PC".
Settings like "Dynamic Contrast" and "Black Tone" just end up crushing blacks and shadow detail. If you want crushed blacks/shadow detail, just buy a cheaper TV. Same with "Flesh Tone" which makes people sunburned. "Color Space: Native" over-saturates colors - "Auto" is recommended instead. "LED Motion Plus" is OK in theory, but it reduces the backlight brightness to an unacceptable level IMO.
Don't make the TV fight with itself by turning on modes that crush blacks (dynamic contrast) then raising the brightness to counter that and un-crush the blacks. That's like taking a photo in photoshop and blurring it then sharpening it again. You lose detail.
"Game Mode" initially has horrible settings, with excessive sharpness, bad colors, and "dynamic contrast" enabled. Once you tune it down, it behaves exactly like "Standard" mode - which means it still oversaturates colors slightly. It doesn't seem to have an affect at reducing input lag. It does something with the audio, but I don't use the TV speakers so I don't know. If you rename an input to "PC", "Game Mode" becomes greyed out.
_____________________

Input Lag Test Results
Here are my input lag test results for a Samsung UN40EH5000 (with Version TS02 S-PVA panel). Photos were taken at 1/1000 of a second, and the control screen is my laptop's TN display.
Average input lag appears to be 2 frames @ ~33 ms. Occasionally it pulls of 1 frame @ ~ 16-17 ms. Less occasionally it takes 3 frames @~50ms.
There isn't a substantial difference between having Game Mode ON or OFF from what I can see.

Game Mode ON:
50ms, 31ms, 50ms, 10ms, 37ms, 17ms, 34ms, 0ms ( zero?)


Normal (Game Mode OFF):
33ms, 16ms, 34ms, 32ms, 16ms, 50ms, 34ms, 32ms, 35ms

PC Mode (Renaming input to "PC", also allows 4:4:4 display):
20ms, 32ms, 33ms, 34ms, 39ms, 50ms, 17ms, 33ms, 51ms, 16ms, 17ms, 17ms, 35ms, 34ms, 16ms

I tried your settings. When I calibrated, they required some modifications. I wonder if it is due to my Hxxx panel.

Backlight 17

I found contrast of 100 turned my flashing grey bars too pink. I lowered it to 87

Brightness is 44

Sharpness is 9. I found anything 0-15 or so works.

Color 47

Tint G45/ R55

I also like warm1

Anyway, those settings do look better than what I had on standard, so thanks for the help. I did use my blue glasses to adjust color and tint.
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post #333 of 1395
9/3/12 at 9:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHTbuyer View Post

I tried your settings. When I calibrated, they required some modifications. I wonder if it is due to my Hxxx panel.
Backlight 17
I found contrast of 100 turned my flashing grey bars too pink. I lowered it to 87
Brightness is 44
Sharpness is 9. I found anything 0-15 or so works.
Color 47
Tint G45/ R55
I also like warm1
Anyway, those settings do look better than what I had on standard, so thanks for the help. I did use my blue glasses to adjust color and tint.

Nice smile.gif

Actually my S-PVA panel also turns the flashing white bars pink, unfortunately. I haven't tried messing with the white balance fine tuning yet - it might be correctable to an extent....

EDIT: Corrected the problem via the white balance controls.

Sharpness is sort of personal preference on normal mode. I agree with you about anything from 0-15 being fine. When set to "PC mode", the pixels behave a little differently and 50 becomes the most accurate choice.

I don't have a blue filter handy, so I just eyeballed the colors tongue.gif. My color and tint settings, might not be perfect, but luckily the set is pretty darn accurate out of the box.

Luckily you can make standard look identical to movie mode, which means it doesn't have undefeatable image processing - except for the dynamic backlight. I haven't found a way to disable it yet (apart from calibrating Movie and Standard identically and switching between them), but luckily it's pretty subtle.
Edited by chicolom - 9/5/12 at 11:54am
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post #334 of 1395
9/3/12 at 10:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHTbuyer View Post


I found contrast of 100 turned my flashing grey bars too pink. I lowered it to 87


I tried turning R-Gain down to 16 and B-Gain down to 20 in the white balance fine tuning. Seems to alleviate some of the pinkness in the upper end of the greyscale without detrimentally affecting the picture.

I have contrast at 98 which shows whites up to 244, which is sort of a middle ground between 234 and 255, but that's what AVS HD 709 recommends (up to 244) if the display can show all 255, which mine can.

Let me know if you come up with any other fixes.


A handy way to A-B compare settings, is to calibrate Movie and Standard identical, then change settings one mode and use the "Tool" button on the remote to switch back and forth between them.
To get Standard identical to ovie, set everything the same except subtract 6 from Contrast and 11 from color
Edited by chicolom - 9/3/12 at 10:39pm
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post #335 of 1395
9/4/12 at 10:14am
@ NewHTbuyer and Chicolom,
would you recommend the 32eh5300 based on what you found with your tinkerin and a price of £370
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post #336 of 1395
9/4/12 at 11:57am
Yes there was hope Virginia.....

I went to my local Target and where there had been a 40UNEH5000 with a version code of TS04 ... it was there no more. I went to the next Target and the clerk found a set with a version code of TS02. I said "I'll take it." I purchased it for the "sale" price of $549 without warranty. On my way out of the store I noticed it was a 40UNEH6000, I went back to inquire and it seems they had the prices mixed up somehow so I got the 120Hz TV for the price of the 60Hz one. Don't know if this is the same at all stores.

Anyways I now have a UN40EH6000F with Version Code TS02 what indicates it has the Samsung panel as seen from the service menu 40A1AFOD.


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post #337 of 1395
9/4/12 at 12:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by giin View Post

@ NewHTbuyer and Chicolom,
would you recommend the 32eh5300 based on what you found with your tinkerin and a price of £370

Yes, I love the S-PVA panel on mine. Great viewing angles, and contrast. I like the direct lit LED's - there's no flashlighting like you might get with edge-lit sets.

I also like the TV's processing and picture options. It gives pretty good control over the picture.

I can't speak for the smart TV features on the xx5300, or panels other than S-PVA.
Edited by chicolom - 9/5/12 at 11:55am
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post #338 of 1395
9/4/12 at 6:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Which panel versions are the ones to look for? and what others exist?

Cxxx/Bxxx = Chei Mei (S-MVA)
Axxx = AUO Optronics (A-MVA)
Hxxx = Sharp (ASV)
Txxx = Samsung (S-PVA)
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post #339 of 1395
9/4/12 at 7:21pm
I am from India.I want to buy the Samsung 32EH5000 for my bedroom.I am not getting reviews anywhere.Please let me know ur personal views.
I have two viewing distances:7ft and 5ft.
I wanted to know the following:
1) Picture Quality and Audio Quality of both 720p and 1080p videos.Will be watching a lot of them using the USB.Is there any noticeable motion blur.?
2) How do 576i (SD) and HD channels look ?Are there too much pixellations and artifacts while seeing SD content?
3)I want to hook my PC which has ATI 4770HD and Intel C2D E8400 via DVI output to HDMI and play games at 1080p? WIll this be possible and will there be any motion lag?

Please suggest me the best testing materials for testing out the TV in the shop in a short time


If there are any better options in this price,please let me know.
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post #340 of 1395
9/5/12 at 12:14am
I updated my Calibration settings to include a few improvements.

- All three modes: "Standard", "Movie", and "PC Mode" have now been calibrated to produce an identical picture. I did this by compensating for the differences in processing b/w each mode to produce equivalent settings.

- I adjusted the white balance settings to further turned down the pink cast in upper IRE white signals.

- I found a way to manually increase contrast above the upper 100 threshold on "Movie" and "PC" mode by simultaneously increasing R-G-B drives (has the exact same effect as turning up contrast control - both raise the white point). These two modes now have equivalent contrast to "Standard" and still don't clip any white levels below 234.
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post #341 of 1395
9/5/12 at 4:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

Cxxx/Bxxx = Chei Mei (S-MVA)
Axxx = AUO Optronics (A-MVA)
Hxxx = Sharp (ASV)
Txxx = Samsung (S-PVA)
Here in europe, Version No are just two numbers, ex. 01 or 02, is there any chance to recognize the panel from those numbers?
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post #342 of 1395
9/5/12 at 7:18am
Hello, I've had (and returned) two 40eh5000 european model.
First one was "Version 02" - delivery date to the shop 08/2012 and was Sharp panel: good (not perfect) uniformity, good blacks, but had the dreaded Sharp pixel arrangement (i.e. :you can't get straight lines to be straight). Also, colors seemed a bit off, bluish picture and very washed-out green.
Second one was "Version 01" - delivery date to the shop 04/2012 and was Samsung panel: bad uniformity (lot of light patches on a black screen in Cinema mode), but blacks were outstanding with a dim light, very good motion and great colors. Returned because of the clouding, really unbearable to me.
Other than that, I watched several "Version 01" expo units, both of the eh5000 and of the eh6030 in the shops and I think they were all SPVA. They all looked the same of mine, including the somewhat glossy screen finish (Sharp one was more matte).

I'm still a bit doubtful about near perfect screen uniformity on this model. For those who have a good panel, did you try to look at it on a black or near black screen with lights turned off and (fundamental) in Cinema mode (which doesn't dim the screen)? Would you mind taking some shots? It still seems unbelievable to me that my panel was so bad and other people get almost perfect panels. I don't say this can't be, only it's strange for sure. One thing is certain, luck is involved and the "full array" led backlighting doesn't warranty nothing regarding panel uniformity.

At this point, I still have to make up my mind if to try another one from another shop, maybe a "Version 01" of recent production, or to give up and start evaluating plasmas. Fact is that if you can overlook this problem, this Tv can really be amazing; it was fundamentally a gaming Tv and I had never see my Wii look so crisp, detailed and colorful even despite I was accustomed to a smaller display. PS3 was stunning, with the most crisp and vibrant picture.
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post #343 of 1395
9/5/12 at 8:38am
Just picked a 40EH5000 from a Target here in SW Virginia, USA. Got the TS02, and I'm very happy with it. My OTA reception on the other hand....
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post #344 of 1395
9/5/12 at 11:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoroastro View Post

I'm still a bit doubtful about near perfect screen uniformity on this model. For those who have a good panel, did you try to look at it on a black or near black screen with lights turned off and (fundamental) in Cinema mode (which doesn't dim the screen)? Would you mind taking some shots? It still seems unbelievable to me that my panel was so bad and other people get almost perfect panels. I don't say this can't be, only it's strange for sure. One thing is certain, luck is involved and the "full array" led backlighting doesn't warranty nothing regarding panel uniformity.

I admit it doesn't have perfect uniformity, but I have to be looking for it (test patterns) to notice. The majority of the time it's a non-issue, and I can overlook it in lieu of the other pros of the TV.
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post #345 of 1395
9/5/12 at 1:29pm
Just bought a UN37EH5000 37" model since it is the only screen that would fit in my old "square" cabinet (since it is only 34" wide).

When I am watching anything during scenes where the screen is mostly black it looks like there is a white "ghost" or reflection/"cloud"(?) of some king at the middle bottom part of the screen. If I move around and look at the tv from different angles the "ghost" or blob (as I like to call it) will disappear but when you look directly at the screen it is noticable during the black scenes.

Anyone now how to adjust the set so I don't see this during dark scenes? The pic is pretty nice in all other regards.
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post #346 of 1395
9/5/12 at 1:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I admit it doesn't have perfect uniformity, but I have to be looking for it (test patterns) to notice. The majority of the time it's a non-issue, and I can overlook it in lieu of the other pros of the TV.

True. Look at my Post #323. I was really really happy with this set until I noticed vertical/horizontal banding. Only appears on gray and green background. So, whenever I watch sports like golf or soccer, banding jumps out. mad.gif. PQ is incredible though. Will give it a try few more days before make up my mind.
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post #347 of 1395
9/5/12 at 1:40pm
Per the prev post, is this the dreaded LCD "screen uniformity"(?) issue??
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post #348 of 1395
9/6/12 at 7:01am
Hi guys,

I received today a Samsung UE32EH5000 bought from Amazon UK. Any info on the manyfacturer/panel, should I keep this one or look for another one?

I read that some Amazon users on the UK got non UK TVs and so they weren't Freeview ready, how could I check If mine has the Freeview service (I'm new in the UK and don't really know what I should be looking for)

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post #349 of 1395
9/6/12 at 7:17am
It was my birthday yesterday and I got the 40 inch samsung EH5300

Here is the model and version taken from the back of the TV



I checked that model code too and it was the H version which I believe to be the sharp panel?

The picture quality is amazing on this TV but unfortunately it has quite a big problem that I am considering returning it

I am getting what seems to be a ghosting effect when fast moving objects are on screen over a mid tone background,

Here is a video example

I get a blue tinted halo around all lines of a moving object. can somebody tell me what is wrong or advise me on what to do, I only bought this yesterday and i activated the warranty so returning it isn't a problem, I need a pretty quick reply though..
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post #350 of 1395
9/6/12 at 8:49am
UPDATE ON PREVIOUS POST:

We contacted Argos about the issue and we are taking it back for an exchange for the same TV.

I'm hoping its a fault with the set and i manage to get the same version without this problem but If it is to do with it H (Sharp) Panel. I can only hope that I win the panel lottery and manage to get one without this edge tingeing problem.
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post #351 of 1395
9/6/12 at 10:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFishcake View Post

It was my birthday yesterday and I got the 40 inch samsung EH5300
Here is the model and version taken from the back of the TV

I checked that model code too and it was the H version which I believe to be the sharp panel?
The picture quality is amazing on this TV but unfortunately it has quite a big problem that I am considering returning it
I am getting what seems to be a ghosting effect when fast moving objects are on screen over a mid tone background,
Here is a video exampleI get a blue tinted halo around all lines of a moving object. can somebody tell me what is wrong or advise me on what to do, I only bought this yesterday and i activated the warranty so returning it isn't a problem, I need a pretty quick reply though..

are you in the game mode?
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post #352 of 1395
9/6/12 at 11:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by z4x3r View Post

Hi guys,
I received today a Samsung UE32EH5000 bought from Amazon UK. Any info on the manyfacturer/panel, should I keep this one or look for another one?
You can check the panel by yourself following these steps
Quote:
Press info-menu-mute-power from standby.
Look bottom right and don't touch anything.
Search for your inch number and after the letter

A:Samsung spva
H:Sharp
P:CMI (ChiMei)
R:AUO

Exit with power off on remote

ex, 32A6AFOD means a samsung panel
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post #353 of 1395
9/6/12 at 2:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabbra View Post

are you in the game mode?

Yeah I have renamed the input to game and turned game mode on. This problem happens to everything on screen and not just game mode so I guess its faulty or a dud panel. I am exchanging it for the same TV tomorrow morning so I will see how it goes and keep the forum updated

Here is a second video which shows the problem better. It seems to be getting worse and worse, Its unbearable when watching TV. Im seeing blue flashes on black and white Films.
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post #354 of 1395
9/6/12 at 5:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFishcake View Post

Yeah I have renamed the input to game and turned game mode on. This problem happens to everything on screen and not just game mode so I guess its faulty or a dud panel. I am exchanging it for the same TV tomorrow morning so I will see how it goes and keep the forum updated
Here is a second video which shows the problem better. It seems to be getting worse and worse, Its unbearable when watching TV. Im seeing blue flashes on black and white Films.

FYI Game Mode looks horrible stock. It also has digital noise filters turned on which will smear things. You have to turn almost all the settings back down on it.

But if it still does that purple/blue ghosting even on Movie mode, I'd say there's something wrong with it.
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post #355 of 1395
9/6/12 at 6:05pm
The ls5700 series is a more expensive product. I don't think it's a resonable comparison.
( In response to post 266)
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post #356 of 1395
9/6/12 at 7:03pm
just wanted to post an update...played around with settings and turned OFF "digital noise filter" or whatever....and seems to have reduced the motion blur a bit.....is that typical??? also turned color to "warm 1" ...made a world of difference when watching a regular dvd......looks like i may be hanging onto the 32eh5000
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post #357 of 1395
9/6/12 at 10:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by robster80 View Post

just wanted to post an update...played around with settings and turned OFF "digital noise filter" or whatever....and seems to have reduced the motion blur a bit.....is that typical??? also turned color to "warm 1" ...made a world of difference when watching a regular dvd......looks like i may be hanging onto the 32eh5000

When you were saying the motion bothered you a week ago, I suggested you try turning OFF all the extra processing (including the Digital noise filter). Digital noise filters usually smear the image together.
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post #358 of 1395
9/6/12 at 11:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFishcake View Post

Yeah I have renamed the input to game and turned game mode on. This problem happens to everything on screen and not just game mode so I guess its faulty or a dud panel. I am exchanging it for the same TV tomorrow morning so I will see how it goes and keep the forum updated
Here is a second video which shows the problem better. It seems to be getting worse and worse, Its unbearable when watching TV. Im seeing blue flashes on black and white Films.


Looks like a defective panel IMO.
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post #359 of 1395
9/7/12 at 1:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickdc View Post

You can check the panel by yourself following these steps

32P6AF0D here. Is the CMI (ChiMei) any good?

I'm having trouble getting channels from the wall antenna connection. I'm new to the flat (in the UK) so I don't really know If there is a problem with the wall input or my TV not getting the signal right. The owner told me the flat had Virgin Media preinstalled services and I don't know If that can interfere with the signal from the regular channels I could get from the antenna, any clue?
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post #360 of 1395
9/7/12 at 1:18am
got a uk version 02 32eh5000 from john lewis yesterday, service menu says is 32A6AF0D. blacks seem excellent as does motion.
Edited by craigthaagensen - 9/7/12 at 3:38am
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