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The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 23

post #661 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

The only trickery would be Samsungs of the dubious CMR. But if it is advertised as a true 120HZ TV, then that would be it's native panel REFRESH rate. The use of some charts from older Samsung TVs is suspect. There is NO reason to believe some or all of the codes translate to the same meaning from a year or two ago.
Also, your reasoning is sound about it being doubtful that a 60HZ LCD panel could do 3D. Not possible and also unlikely, that the panel is somehow "switched" from 60HZ to 120HZ.
Use of old data codes to interpolate current Samsung LCD panel technology is speculative and guessing at best. The "Panelookup" website will be best to determine what the panel type really is, But it takes a few months for specific TV panel data to populate the large data base at that site. It would be good to check your actual panel model number from the inner label (not firmware service menu) and then check every few months at Panelookup to see if the updated panel data is there. Why do I say look at the actual LCD panel label and not firmware? Example: I have a 2010 LG 42LD550 and when checking the service menu panel info it does not report the same LCD panel number as the label on the LCD panel itself.
There can be many reasons for firmware not to agree with actual hardware present in a TV, computer, or any electronic device, ranging from incorrect coding or program updates to changes in manufacturing procedures during the production year.

Good points smile.gif
post #662 of 2165
I hope this post is still considered "on topic" ...

I bought a Samsung UN39EH5003 for my Mom (before I discovered this forum ...). mad.gif

I'm hoping that the excellent info in this thread on recommended picture-adjustments and display-settings will all apply to her TV. Would anyone know why that would or would not be true (i.e. given that the only real differences I've been able to identify are no "audio out" and no chance of Samsung Panel with the 5003")?

Thanks so much - I may be learning late, but I'm learning lots!
post #663 of 2165
I have played with the settings on my 32eh5000 with Samsung panel for a couple of days...I will post some of my favorite settings in a little bit.smile.gif
post #664 of 2165
And a follow-up Q: Do firmware updates also apply to the UN39EH5003?

Thanks (posting as much for badly-needed PM privleges - sorry ...).
post #665 of 2165
Hi all,

I recently bought the un46eh5000 and I'm having problems connecting the audio to an external surround sound system.

It's an older unit so there's no optical, so I bought a 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo plug to two phono plugs. When I plug that into the audio out on the TV and into the sound box I get a lot of huming and I can faintly hear the audio as well.

If I plug the thing into my laptop and play music into the surround sound unit it works perfectly fine.

If I plug headphones into the Audio Out port on the back of the tv it works fine.

So why won't it work from TV to Surround Sound Unit?

Sorry for my newbieness, thanks in advance for your help.
post #666 of 2165
So after fooling around for a while with the settings I have a pretty good picture now. Take note I am only watching Comcast cable TV on this and it is not HD channels but the crappy non-HD stuff we were stuck with using the mini-converter we were given for secondary TVs. Believe me, SD Comcast looks different every time you change the channel so these setting may not work the best for you depending on which channels you frequent. It is the closest thing I have been able to come up with to my big Panasonic Plasma TV in overall color trueness, depth, skin tones, and the like.

UN32EH5000 with the Samsung TS01 Panel

Mode: Movie
Backlight:15...I noticed others going with a full 20 here but to me it is too much light when it comes to the darker scenes and the blacks are compromised.
Contrast 82
Brightness 35....Again, if you go too heavy with brightness the dark scenes are too grainy.
Sharpness 45....at least.....I don't get the ones who are setting it under 20
Color 60 or slightly less
Tint 50/50

Advance Settings:
Color space Auto
White level
Red gain 30
Green gain 28
Blue gain 33
Dynamic contrast Medium...I really like the effect of this compared to having it off.
Black Tone Dark
Flesh Tone +2....I was all over the place with this one, had it negative for a bit, finally decided somewhere in the low + numbers is better.

Picture Options:
Colortone Warm2...maybe Warm1
Digital Noise OFF
LED Motion Plus OFF

I tend to watch this set in a darker bedroom setting but in brighter conditions this is still OK for the most part. Or you could switch over to Standard during the daylight which seems to have a brighter picture to it from the get go. I haven't fooled with the Standard settings but I imagine you could tweak it so that it mimics the Movie setting but increase the backlight and brightness settings to make it overall a brighter picture. Then you could flip over to Standard in very bright conditions and leave it in Movie the rest of the time.

I really like the sound of this set. So glad I picked the bigger 32 inch panel which gets the 10 watts per channel speakers. Smaller panels get 5 watts. I use Movie mode for sound which seems to me to be the clearest and most natural sounding, not tinny at all.
Edited by sourbeef - 11/29/12 at 7:34pm
post #667 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourbeef View Post

So after fooling around for a while with the settings I have a pretty good picture now. Take note I am only watching Comcast cable TV on this and it is not HD channels but the crappy non-HD stuff we were stuck with using the mini-converter we were given for secondary TVs. Believe me, SD Comcast looks different every time you change the channel so these setting may not work the best for you depending on which channels you frequent. It is the closest thing I have been able to come up with to my big Panasonic Plasma TV in overall color trueness, depth, skin tones, and the like.
UN32EH5000 with the Samsung TS01 Panel
Mode: Movie
Backlight:15...I noticed others going with a full 20 here but to me it is too much light when it comes to the darker scenes and the blacks are compromised.
Contrast 82
Brightness 35....Again, if you go too heavy with brightness the dark scenes are too grainy.
Sharpness 45....at least.....I don't get the ones who are setting it under 20
Color 60 or slightly less
Tint 50/50
Advance Settings:
Color space Auto
White level
Red gain 30
Green gain 28
Blue gain 33
Dynamic contrast Medium...I really like the effect of this compared to having it off.
Black Tone Dark
Flesh Tone +2....I was all over the place with this one, had it negative for a bit, finally decided somewhere in the low + numbers is better.
Picture Options:
Colortone Warm2...maybe Warm1
Digital Noise OFF
LED Motion Plus OFF
I tend to watch this set in a darker bedroom setting but in brighter conditions this is still OK for the most part. Or you could switch over to Standard during the daylight which seems to have a brighter picture to it from the get go. I haven't fooled with the Standard settings but I imagine you could tweak it so that it mimics the Movie setting but increase the backlight and brightness settings to make it overall a brighter picture. Then you could flip over to Standard in very bright conditions and leave it in Movie the rest of the time.
I really like the sound of this set. So glad I picked the bigger 32 inch panel which gets the 10 watts per channel speakers. Smaller panels get 5 watts. I use Movie mode for sound which seems to me to be the clearest and most natural sounding, not tinny at all.



Brightness @ 35 + Dynamic Contrast: Medium + Black Tone: Dark > sounds like a recipe for crushed blacks.

Just my 2 cents....
post #668 of 2165
I've had the un50eh5000 for a few days now, and have to say I'm not very impressed with it. I've read through some complaints about motion blur, and I completely agree. It's pretty terrible when I'm playing xbox games. On Black Ops 2, whenever I move the entire screen blurs. I've also noticed text and straight edges have a "jagged" or "stairstepping" quality to them sometime. Case is point: I was watching a replay of the Wisconsin-Penn State game from this past weekend, and whenever the camera panned to the letters on the side of penn state's stadium, they would appear jagged as they moved across the screen.

I do have Clear Motion Plus or whatever it's called turned on. I can try turning that off when I get home, I just found the TV to be too bright when I turned it off when initially setting it up. I have the sharpness at about 40, and I'm in movie mode.

Also, and perhaps more importantly to me, I'm planning on getting a soundbar for this TV but I believe I read one post earlier that said only HDMI1's audio will pass through on the audio outputs? Is this true for both the stereo jack and the optical audio jack? Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm seriously considering returning this (which would be a major hassle since I'd have to ship it back to Amazon).
post #669 of 2165
ok guys, how do you get rid of this HORRIBLE black crush?? I have the UN40EH5050 and i've calibrated it using the AVS-HD disc and light scenes are fine, but the minute it hits a dark scene the blacks are all one solid pitch black ink goopy color. no shadow detail whatsoever (maybe I'm just expecting too much coming from a plasma for the last 10 years).

my settings are almost identical to Chicolom

Pictures Settings

Movie mode
Backlight: 17
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 48
* Sharpness: 10
* Color: 51


Advanced Settings:

Color Space: Auto
* White Balance: R-Gain: 5, G-Gain: 25, B-Gain: 0 on "Standard" Mode, "PC" Mode & "Movie" Mode both use R-Gain: 17, G-Gain: 37, B-Gain: 12
Gamma: 0
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Motion Lighting: Off


Picture Options:

Color Tone: Warm 1
* Size: 16:9
Digital Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level : Normal (using ps3 with HDMI video)
post #670 of 2165
How does streaming work? Must I use AllShare. I have TVersity on my PC and use it to stream to an Oppo BluRay player which is connected to another TV and watch things that way on my larger TV. I can't seem to get that to work directly to the Samsung.

Thanks

Edit 1: OK, got Tversity working. Rebooted router, computer, and TV. Now to get .mkv files to play. Getting unsuported format but what is strange is I had a movie on a USB stick and it played but won't via streaming. hmm.......

Edit 2: Out with Tversity, in with Serviio. Now to get ethernet to the room with the Samsung. Wireless just won't cut it.
Edited by squigly1 - 12/1/12 at 12:24pm
post #671 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan9124 View Post

I've had the un50eh5000 for a few days now, and have to say I'm not very impressed with it. I've read through some complaints about motion blur, and I completely agree. It's pretty terrible when I'm playing xbox games. On Black Ops 2, whenever I move the entire screen blurs. I've also noticed text and straight edges have a "jagged" or "stairstepping" quality to them sometime. Case is point: I was watching a replay of the Wisconsin-Penn State game from this past weekend, and whenever the camera panned to the letters on the side of penn state's stadium, they would appear jagged as they moved across the screen.
I do have Clear Motion Plus or whatever it's called turned on. I can try turning that off when I get home, I just found the TV to be too bright when I turned it off when initially setting it up. I have the sharpness at about 40, and I'm in movie mode.
Also, and perhaps more importantly to me, I'm planning on getting a soundbar for this TV but I believe I read one post earlier that said only HDMI1's audio will pass through on the audio outputs? Is this true for both the stereo jack and the optical audio jack? Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm seriously considering returning this (which would be a major hassle since I'd have to ship it back to Amazon).
The motion blur issue is why I would choose the EH6000. It is a 120hz version whereas the EH5000 is 60hz.. Also, the models with the Version TS02 Samsung panel are reportedly better in this regard.
post #672 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

ok guys, how do you get rid of this HORRIBLE black crush?? I have the UN40EH5050 and i've calibrated it using the AVS-HD disc and light scenes are fine, but the minute it hits a dark scene the blacks are all one solid pitch black ink goopy color. no shadow detail whatsoever (maybe I'm just expecting too much coming from a plasma for the last 10 years).
my settings are almost identical to Chicolom
Pictures Settings
Movie mode
Backlight: 17
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 48
* Sharpness: 10
* Color: 51
Advanced Settings:
Color Space: Auto
* White Balance: R-Gain: 5, G-Gain: 25, B-Gain: 0 on "Standard" Mode, "PC" Mode & "Movie" Mode both use R-Gain: 17, G-Gain: 37, B-Gain: 12
Gamma: 0
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Motion Lighting: Off
Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm 1
* Size: 16:9
Digital Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level : Normal (using ps3 with HDMI video)

My set has really good shadow detail, and I can see all the bars down to pure black.

Try changing your black level to "low".
post #673 of 2165
How are the viewing angles on this TV?

Vertically?

I had an old LCD TV and if I wasn't looking dead straight at it, it wouldn't look right.

I noticed with everything all screwed in place (very tight) that the TV has a very very very slight angle up. So say you're looking at it from the side and straight up is 90 degrees...it's like 93 degrees.

The stand and everything is level and I took the screws out once already and retightened them...but it still has the slight lean as if the screen is looking up.

When I try and pull the TV forward to make it level it's fighting me and returns to where it needs to be so I know it's all screwed in properly.


I guess I want to know is if I'm looking at it and it's at a slight angle vertically (up or down) will it affect the colors/display?
post #674 of 2165
My mom just had an UN32EH4003VXZA from Sears put up in her bedroom, and it seems like I've hit a bit of a mystery regarding what kind of panel she ended up with.

The option number from the service menu is 32S6AH0D, and the version on the box is DH01. I can't make heads or tails of what that means despite reading this thread (it seems like they're new entries?), but it was made in Mexico in August 2012 if that helps...
post #675 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoejohndoes View Post

I guess I want to know is if I'm looking at it and it's at a slight angle vertically (up or down) will it affect the colors/display?

A slight shift shouldn't do much. It also depends on the panel though as the viewing angle changes with the different matrices.
post #676 of 2165
If the set is not at 90 degrees, it is not snapped into place completely. The same thing happened to me initially. Someone else reported they took out the screws and resnapped the set into place and it was then at 90 degrees. Sure enough that was my problem.

Scott
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoejohndoes View Post

How are the viewing angles on this TV?
Vertically?
I had an old LCD TV and if I wasn't looking dead straight at it, it wouldn't look right.
I noticed with everything all screwed in place (very tight) that the TV has a very very very slight angle up. So say you're looking at it from the side and straight up is 90 degrees...it's like 93 degrees.
The stand and everything is level and I took the screws out once already and retightened them...but it still has the slight lean as if the screen is looking up.
When I try and pull the TV forward to make it level it's fighting me and returns to where it needs to be so I know it's all screwed in properly.
I guess I want to know is if I'm looking at it and it's at a slight angle vertically (up or down) will it affect the colors/display?
post #677 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan9124 View Post

Also, and perhaps more importantly to me, I'm planning on getting a soundbar for this TV but I believe I read one post earlier that said only HDMI1's audio will pass through on the audio outputs? Is this true for both the stereo jack and the optical audio jack? Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm seriously considering returning this (which would be a major hassle since I'd have to ship it back to Amazon).

Can anyone speak to this question of audio output? I don't have the proper cables on hand to test it out.
post #678 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoejohndoes View Post

How are the viewing angles on this TV?
Vertically?
I had an old LCD TV and if I wasn't looking dead straight at it, it wouldn't look right.
I noticed with everything all screwed in place (very tight) that the TV has a very very very slight angle up. So say you're looking at it from the side and straight up is 90 degrees...it's like 93 degrees.
The stand and everything is level and I took the screws out once already and retightened them...but it still has the slight lean as if the screen is looking up.
When I try and pull the TV forward to make it level it's fighting me and returns to where it needs to be so I know it's all screwed in properly.
I guess I want to know is if I'm looking at it and it's at a slight angle vertically (up or down) will it affect the colors/display?

I am quite impressed with the viewing angles on mine, which has the Samsung TS01 panel. Even way off to the sides I can still see a pretty clear picture, some color fading but not anything like I remember seeing on regular LCD or rear projection TVs. This was something I was a bit concerned about when deciding to get it and I am glad that the angles are as good as they are.
post #679 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R. Scherr View Post

If the set is not at 90 degrees, it is not snapped into place completely. The same thing happened to me initially. Someone else reported they took out the screws and resnapped the set into place and it was then at 90 degrees. Sure enough that was my problem.
Scott

I would say that mine is close to 90 but now that I looked at it again, after seeing these posts, I can see a very very slight lean back, so slight that I would not have noticed without the poster bringing it up...and I know my stand is on correctly, no doubts about that. You have to really tighten those screws too so there is no jiggling after the TV is put on.
post #680 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourbeef View Post

I would say that mine is close to 90 but now that I looked at it again, after seeing these posts, I can see a very very slight lean back, so slight that I would not have noticed without the poster bringing it up...and I know my stand is on correctly, no doubts about that. You have to really tighten those screws too so there is no jiggling after the TV is put on.
Yeah it's very very slightly leaned back. Unnoticeable unless you really look at it. I have the screws tied in SO SO SO tight but when I accidentally bumped into the stand the TV was on it definitely wiggled/moved forward and back. Even though its secure I think it's because it's top heavy too. It's impossible to keep something like that 100% in place.
post #681 of 2165
I've got a UN46EH5300 hooked up to the samsung 3500 bluray/surround sound best buy had for 177 on black Friday. I've been struggling with my audio all around since I got it hooked up. I also have a 55D6300 with a similar, if not slightly nicer samsung bluray/surround. The 55's audio has never really given me trouble until hooking up my pc through HDMI with an ATI 5450. Thanks to Tulli's post on EDID overrides I got that all taken care of. Because of the success of that card I picked up a 4350 a few days ago for the new set 46" set up. I used the same override I had used on the 55 and I'm still just not able to get 5.1 to pass through. I was wondering if perhaps I'm actually just not able to pass 5.1 compressed from HDMI through the the SPDIF out. Does any one have any information on this? I was under the impression that it could do this without issue but I'm struggling far more than I expected to here. Any advice you all might have would be great.

If you have any questions or need more information I'd be happy to answer.
post #682 of 2165
UNEH4003F
doesn't have optical out, rca out or 3.5mm.
it's for cc
post #683 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

My set has really good shadow detail, and I can see all the bars down to pure black.
Try changing your black level to "low".

oh I can see all the black bars on the calibration disc just fine, and go down to pure black. it's just that dark detail is just really.........black, and not as defined as I'm used to. went to my buddies house who has a much more expensive Panny LED and it's calibrated as well. same thing.... from what I'm gathering it's because LCD/LED's can't differentiate blacks as well as the plasma's I've been used to for the last 10 years so I guess it's something I'll have to get used to.
post #684 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

oh I can see all the black bars on the calibration disc just fine, and go down to pure black. it's just that dark detail is just really.........black, and not as defined as I'm used to. went to my buddies house who has a much more expensive Panny LED and it's calibrated as well. same thing.... from what I'm gathering it's because LCD/LED's can't differentiate blacks as well as the plasma's I've been used to for the last 10 years so I guess it's something I'll have to get used to.


Umm.....I don't think I understand the issue then confused.gif

Could you be referring to the auto-dimming that occurs on near black scenes? Some of the picture modes will automatically dim the backlight if the scene is really dark. Since this shifts the whole gamma range down some of the finer shades of black may be harder to distinguish.
post #685 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

Umm.....I don't think I understand the issue then confused.gif
Could you be referring to the auto-dimming that occurs on near black scenes? Some of the picture modes will automatically dim the backlight if the scene is really dark. Since this shifts the whole gamma range down some of the finer shades of black may be harder to distinguish.

basically, fine detail is being lost in the DARKEST scenes where I can see the fine detail on my Panny plasma..... calibrated to the same levels with my calibration disc on each tv... the auto dimming was something i turned off immediately thanks to this forum
post #686 of 2165
Dang...I'm starting to realize the screen definitely blurs when there's movement. And after reading this thread it seems like a pretty common complain. I have a TS02 Panel so I thought that was the best panel...but the blur is really annoying. I set my calibration like Chicolom said to...but the blacks just don't look that deep...it looks like there's a ghostly layer over it.

Would upgrading to the same model with 120hz refresh rate really help? I don't want soap opera effects so wouldn't the 120hz be useless? I've got 20 more days to return this thing so any recommendations are welcome.
post #687 of 2165
Dang...I'm starting to realize the screen definitely blurs when there's movement. And after reading this thread it seems like a pretty common complain. I have a TS02 Panel so I thought that was the best panel...but the blur is really annoying. I set my calibration like Chicolom said to...but the blacks just don't look that deep...it looks like there's a ghostly layer over it.

Would upgrading to the same model with 120hz refresh rate really help? I don't want soap opera effects so wouldn't the 120hz be useless? I've got 20 more days to return this thing so any recommendations are welcome.
post #688 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoejohndoes View Post

Dang...I'm starting to realize the screen definitely blurs when there's movement. And after reading this thread it seems like a pretty common complain. I have a TS02 Panel so I thought that was the best panel...but the blur is really annoying. I set my calibration like Chicolom said to...but the blacks just don't look that deep...it looks like there's a ghostly layer over it.
Would upgrading to the same model with 120hz refresh rate really help? I don't want soap opera effects so wouldn't the 120hz be useless? I've got 20 more days to return this thing so any recommendations are welcome.

From what I've noticed you either get a panel that blurs/jitters a lot or a panel that clearly shows ghosting but minimal blur or even close to no blurring when its panning quite fast. There is a reason why these sets are pretty cheap compared to the higher end model or even the previous models.

I can see the jittering when I game and look for it but it has not bothered me at all when im actually playing instead of looking for it but I can understand how some will complain about this. I believe the older D5000 models had better motion handling but the backlight bleeding and blacks on those models are bad. the blaks on my panel are fantastic and beats those newer generation plasma screens that samsung displays along side.
post #689 of 2165
Hi all,

I tried reading/searching through this whole thread, but can't seem to find my answers:

  1. How do you check what panel it is?
  2. Which one is the best?


I'm about to purchase UN46EH5000FXZC and wondering what I should check for.

Thanks in advance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vocalvoodoo View Post

I posted this in the other EH5000 thread but thought I'd post here too.
Disclaimer: I'm an HDTV noob.
I just got the 32EH5000 to use primarily as a computer monitor. I love it! I originally purchased an LG 32cs560. It wasn't horrible, but the picture was too blurry for my liking. The EH5000, on the other hand, looks much closer to a computer monitor in clarity. I've also noticed that after a day or so of use there seems to be a lot less pixelation. I suspect that is just due to my eyes adjusting and my brain compensating for the deficiencies in clarity with a large screen, compared to my previous 23" monitor at least.
Input lag:
I can feel it, but just a little with FPS PC games, namely Payday: The Heist. It's certainly not enough to hamper gameplay. In fact, if I didn't know there was such a thing as input lag, I may not have noticed at all. With that said, enabling vsync does make input lag more noticable. I also have a NSX-40GT1 that I tried with my computer and the input lag was HORRIBLE.
Regarding the TS01 and 02 versions, mine is version TS01 (April 2012 manufacture date with firmware 1011) and all 32" EH5000's at my local Best Buy were version TS01. The 40" EH5000's were all TS02's. Is this normal for the 32" or is there in fact a panel lottery?
Lastly, I've noticed that the two top corners of the bezel are loose. You can push each top corner in an 8th of an inch or so, but not so with the bottom two corners. Checked the screws and they were tight. Can someone confirm if their display does this or not? Just want to make sure it's not a manufacturing defect with mine.
post #690 of 2165
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoejohndoes View Post

Dang...I'm starting to realize the screen definitely blurs when there's movement. And after reading this thread it seems like a pretty common complain. I have a TS02 Panel so I thought that was the best panel...but the blur is really annoying. I set my calibration like Chicolom said to...but the blacks just don't look that deep...it looks like there's a ghostly layer over it.
Would upgrading to the same model with 120hz refresh rate really help? I don't want soap opera effects so wouldn't the 120hz be useless? I've got 20 more days to return this thing so any recommendations are welcome.


I had the same with my 50EH5000 BUT I found the trick is to turn OFF the LED motion plus and the Motion Lighting, and turn down sharpness and color. I'm using standard mode and close to Chicolom settings but I found you really have to keep adjusting until you find something that is not too bright while preventing blur. Not sure why Samsung has the LED motion plus on these panels. I'll post my setting later.

I ended up with a "CH01" panel and quality seems good but then I haven't seen a "TS01" panel.
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