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The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 29

post #841 of 2167
Hi everyone,

I'm thinking very hard about picking up a EH4003, but I'm worried about input lag with my pre-HD consoles like PS2, Xbox, PS1, and N64

I know I won't get a CRT experience, but can anyone vouch for how well the "Game Mode" works to help with input lag? I'd be using component or s-video where possible. I'd REALLY appreciate some first-hand knowledge and advice!

Thanks guys
post #842 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamhigh View Post

Folks - any idea why could the 'Support --> Self Diagnosis --> Reset' button be disabled (greyed out) on the UN40EH5300 Menu. When I click on 'Reset' anyways I get a 'This function isn't available' popup.
Spoke to Samsung service rep - he is asking me to start a service request, but I thought I will ask you guys first.
Thanks,

I don't know, but when I click "reset" it asks me to enter a 4 digit pin....

You could also just enter the service menu, which will also do a factory reset on the TV.
post #843 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobble9 View Post

Again, many thanks for your continuted help, Chicolom. I'd be pretty stressed without your assistance!

Yes it seems most other games besides Mark of The Ninja aren't giving me too much flak when it comes to their brightness sliders. I must say though that even though you've just explained that Mark of The Ninja is a bit of an outlier I'd still be curious to hear at what exact point the ninja becomes visible for you for comparison purposes (only if possible and if it doesn't take up too much of your time, of course :-)) Since it displays a clear number on its brightness slider I thought it'd be a good test case.

--

However in the Misc A folder, A1 Grayscale Ramp, although I was able to see a distinction across the whole range of the scale, I couldn't notice a change beyond the dotted lines to show where black (16) and white (235) is (beyond the lines, black became fully crushed and seemed like one-shade). In A2 Grayscale Steps, the blacks below 16 were also indistinguishable as before although the whites above 235 were distinguishable (on 46 Brightness and on Movie Mode, to reiterate). Interestingly, at 63 brightness the blacks below 16 did become distinguishable, but at the result of a more washed out image. Based on this, what do you believe is the correct solution, if there is any required?

I also tried the same calibration on my PS3 (for reference, I've got the PS3's "RBG Full" option turned on, which is likeable to the 360's Expanded Ref. Level I believe, as well as Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White turned on) and it was mostly similar...However in this case, even when adjusting the brightness on the Grayscale Steps in the Misc A Folder, the blacks below 16 all blended together and were indistinguishable even up to a brightness setting of 100. Also, all of the non-essential whites (235-253) in the White Clipping test would not display, even with Super-White turned on. I know you don't use a PS3, but do you know why it wouldn't be displaying these even with RBG Full turned, HDMI Black Level set at Normal, and Super-White turned on?

--

Anyway, as you can probably tell, I'm rather new to all of this, being the first time I've really seriously looked at getting my TV properly calibrated. I'm now mainly concerned with ensuring that I don't have crushed blacks when gaming on this TV and that I'm getting all the detail I'm meant to when it comes to dark scenes. Since this is the first time I've owned a TV with blacks as good as this one, I'm having a hard time being able to distinguish what's a good black and what's not and when I'm losing black detail, so if you can offer any more help in this area as we go along, please do! smile.gif

I tested the Ninja game. It starts up with the brightness set to 20/100 at the default, which is way to dark. I can see most of the ninja around 45 and can easily see him at 50. I'm betting 50 is the default setting since it's midpoint between 100. So it seems like that game responds normally, it is just set way dark to start off, probably to force you to adjust the slider manually.


For the Gray scale ramp and gray scale steps, what you are seeing is normal. You're NOT supposed to see anything below the dotted line, ie 16. It's the same as for the Black Clipping pattern. You're only supposed to see bars 17 and above, and bars 16 and below should all be pure black. The dotted line shows where 16 is, so everything outside of it is supposed to be one shade of pure black.

For the white end of the ramp/steps, it's OK to see some different shades of white. People usually calibrate to show whiter than white information above 235. This is because some videos contain WTW information so having that extra headroom doesn't hurt. Almost no videos ever pass blacker than black information, so you want so set the brightness to crush everything below 17 into pure black. If you set the brightness to show bars 0-16 your picture will wash out and blacks will be gray, because no videos are sending any information below 16 anyways.


As for the PS3, I saw this in the AVS HD 709 thread:
"Just to add, the PS3 won't pass BTB or WTW in any RGB mode, or for media in a non disk format (e.g. AVIs burned on a DVD)."
"If you set your PS3 to Y'CbCr on, RGB "limited" and super white "on" you will pass WTW + BTB."
"Use YCbCr output from the PS3, not RGB and turn Super-White On. Also make sure RGB is set to Limited for gaming/XMB/Netflix/etc. (YCbCr output is only available for DVD/BD video playback, nothing else)."


So I think it needs to be set like this:

BD/DVD Output - YCbCr or Auto
RGB Limited/Full - Limited
SuperWhite - On

It also sounds like it also might not pass WTW and BTB information when playing a file off a jump drive or playing files off a disc
"I can tell you that the PS3 will NOT pass blacker than black or whiter than white unless it's played from an authored disc..."

So I think you need to burn the AVCHD version of AVS HD 709 onto a DVD for it to work correctly.

I assume the PS3 switches over to RGB limited range when a game boots up, but I'm still not sure. :\
post #844 of 2167
Did I read something one time on this thread about the EH5000, and maybe other models, being unable to auto-channel the clear channels on Comcast cable? I tried to get mine to do it last night and again today but it is not happening. My Panasonic small flat screen LEDLCD came up with over 60 channels in short order. Why can't the Samsung do it ? Is there a fix for that?
post #845 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I tested the Ninja game. It starts up with the brightness set to 20/100 at the default, which is way to dark. I can see most of the ninja around 45 and can easily see him at 50. I'm betting 50 is the default setting since it's midpoint between 100. So it seems like that game responds normally, it is just set way dark to start off, probably to force you to adjust the slider manually.

Thanks for posting your results. For me It's pretty similar, I find it's most comfortable seeing the ninja at around the 50 mark. It can be hard to see some of the detail in blacks for this TV during the day due to how reflective the screen is (I can see myself in the screen + wearing a white t-shirt, go figure =P), but overall it's good to see we're both seeing similar things.
Quote:
As for the PS3, I saw this in the AVS HD 709 thread:
"Just to add, the PS3 won't pass BTB or WTW in any RGB mode, or for media in a non disk format (e.g. AVIs burned on a DVD)."
"If you set your PS3 to Y'CbCr on, RGB "limited" and super white "on" you will pass WTW + BTB."
"Use YCbCr output from the PS3, not RGB and turn Super-White On. Also make sure RGB is set to Limited for gaming/XMB/Netflix/etc. (YCbCr output is only available for DVD/BD video playback, nothing else)."
So I think it needs to be set like this:
BD/DVD Output - YCbCr or Auto
RGB Limited/Full - Limited
SuperWhite - On
It also sounds like it also might not pass WTW and BTB information when playing a file off a jump drive or playing files off a disc
"I can tell you that the PS3 will NOT pass blacker than black or whiter than white unless it's played from an authored disc..."
So I think you need to burn the AVCHD version of AVS HD 709 onto a DVD for it to work correctly.
I assume the PS3 switches over to RGB limited range when a game boots up, but I'm still not sure. :\

Hmm... it is pretty confusing isn't it. I'm pretty sure the RGB Full works in games because I've got my PS3 set to RBG Full + HDMI Level Normal, and putting the HDMI Level into Low causes the blacks to become crushed. This would indicate that it's working correctly and outputting the full range in games, right?

--

Just a couple other flavour questions while we're here... For starters, why do you set the Gamma to -1 on the TV? And also, on the colour tests I found that it was most accurate to set Tint and Colour to both 50/50 and 50, respectively. Am I doing it right? The goal was to set the RBG filter to each colour and ensure that the flashing colour boxes match the background as much as possible, correct?

Happy new year!
post #846 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by lkntechnut View Post

Ok, I've looked through 25 pages of this thread and I don't see much about the 4000 series. Between a couple of my friends and I, we have recently purchased four model UN32EH4000 Samsung TVs in the last few weeks. They are going to be used a bedroom TV's. I assume there are a lot of other folks who have just bought a 32" model 4000 or the slightly newer 4003 model since they were on sale for $249.
I know they are not high end sets, but I am really hoping to find some detailed calibration info so we can set these up for the best possible picture. Can anyone help???
THANKS!!!

I'd be interested in any help here also. I picked up the 4050 at Sam's Club for a really good price, and am interested in anyone's settings for the 4xxxx. Not sure if the 5xxx's settings could be used for this model or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.
post #847 of 2167
A few weeks ago I made several posts. (see below) and after filing a complaint with Ohio's Attorney General have been offered a new TV by my retailer to replace the one missing accessories. Should I accept the offer of a new TV?

They sent me an e-mail last night. They want an answer today. The original posts are below.

Did I get a returned or floor model sold as new and if so what should I do?

I love my UN46EH5300 but have a question about the packaging.

I bought the TV on December 7 at a big box store in suburban Columbus, OH. The box was sealed with tape. It has a build date of November 2012, Version TH02.

When my wife and I opened it we first noticed that the accessories were behind the television, not in the location specified in the Screws and Guide stand location Stop/Samsung Support Note.

Upon unpacking the set we also found the following were missing and drove to the dealer to obtain them.

1. power cord (obtained the one from the dealer's floor model)
2. Energy Guide sticker (obtained from the dealer's floor model)
3. Stand assembly instructions (downloaded)
4. Cleaning cloth (dealer has attempted to contact Samsung to obtain one)

Also:

1. Screws for stand assembly were loose, four for each part of the stand, and not in two envelopes of four
2. Batteries for the remote were loose and not packaged as two
3. Remote bag had been previously opened.

Everything else was included and the set was still covered in the tape around the edges, draped in white protective material. I also had no problem registering the set on the Samsung website.

Nowhere on the packaging does the set say "reconditioned".

I brought up this issue to the dealer who said they got a recent shipment from Samsung and this was one of them. He said to take the packaging issue up with Samsung.

Needless to say they sold out of this model.

So, did I get taken and if so what should I do? I'm thinking of contacting our state's Attorney General.
Edited by iraweiss - 12/19/12 at 8:35am



Thanks for your responses and confirming my suspicions I guess.

I've been a collector of stereo and home theater equipment since the mid-60's and with all my purchases this is the first time this has happened to me.

I scored some real good deals on discontinued Yamaha Aventage RX-A3000 and RX-A800 receivers just a year ago and they were immaculately packaged.

From what I know the UN46EH5300 has been discontinued and I got the only one not on display in all of that vendor's Central Ohio stores. I watched the salesperson check the computer at the store close to my house who had sold out before having one held for me at a store 20 miles away. If there is a "1" in the inventory computer only the display model is available and anything more than one means an item is still boxed and available for sale. She even had the set's availability physically verified before I made the trip.

I also got a terrific price on the Samsung as I opened a store credit card to make the purchase (10% off the price [most likely set by Samsung of $699], less $20, less another 10% for first purchase with the card) so I doubt that if I returned it and that chain was sold out I would score anything like a similar deal. The best price I've seen lately is $100 more and that is from a vendor who is expecting new shipments on the 28th. Good luck getting them. New models (a 6 series?) will never be priced like that so early in their shelf life.

FWIW here is a link to the price history: http://www.nextag.com/Samsung-UN46EH5300FXZA-46-LED-942558889/price-history-html

And if I asked for a new TV I would be dealing with the "panel lottery". I think my TH02 is a good panel and who knows what the replacement would be. They had a complete selection of Samsung TVs from 19" to 51" in LCD, LED and plasma and they were selling fast.

Finally, if I confronted the department manager a second time asking for a remedy it would be my word against his word that the set is new and badly packaged by Samsung in Mexico and that is ugly.

What I will do is file a claim with my state's AG office with the facts as I have previously stated them. The remedy I will ask for is a partial refund of the purchase price and an extended warranty. Does that make sense?
Edited by iraweiss - 12/17/12 at 9:13am

Edited by iraweiss - 1/1/13 at 9:18am
post #848 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobble9 View Post


Hmm... it is pretty confusing isn't it. I'm pretty sure the RGB Full works in games because I've got my PS3 set to RBG Full + HDMI Level Normal, and putting the HDMI Level into Low causes the blacks to become crushed. This would indicate that it's working correctly and outputting the full range in games, right?
--
Just a couple other flavour questions while we're here... For starters, why do you set the Gamma to -1 on the TV? And also, on the colour tests I found that it was most accurate to set Tint and Colour to both 50/50 and 50, respectively. Am I doing it right? The goal was to set the RBG filter to each colour and ensure that the flashing colour boxes match the background as much as possible, correct?
Happy new year!

Yes, it sounds like the PS3 is outputting full range RGB.

1) RGB full range + black level "normal" = correct
2) RGB full range + black level "low" = crush/clip

3) RGB limited range + black level "normal" = washout
4) RGB limited range + black level "low" = correct

I set the gamma to -1 because it seems to me like the gamma is a little low (< 2.2) based on some eyeball tests.
http://www.lcdreviewz.com/GammaCorrection
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php

(Note that those types of tests ^ will only work correctly if the TV is in "PC" mode where it is NOT subsampling the picture.)

Correctly setting the gamma is more advanced calibration though and is better done with a meter than by eye.


On the Flashing Color Bars pattern, I believe all you need is a blue filter. There are a few more patterns that need R, G, and B filters but I don't think that one does.

On my set, green clips first before the other colors. I had make some adjustments to keep green from clipping to early, and that meant either lowering the white point, or lowering the overall color. I lowered the color which made the tint and color behave differently in the Flashing Color Bars pattern. Setting the color to 38 or 49 for Standard and Movie respectively kept green from clipping and the G46/R54 tint was the setting that made the bars blend the best with that slightly lower color.

However, I just did another calibration pass the other day and ended up lowering the white point slightly in order to have the colors track better. I updated my calibration post with the latest results, which now has the tint at 50/50. The color saturation is higher to compensate for the lowered white point. The Flashing Color Bars all blend together with the current setting, and on Misc A4 Color clipping pattern, the colors clip at about 235 which is where they should clip at.

When you calibrate, changing a setting in one spot affects other spots. Raising or lowering the white point will shift where the colors clip at. That's why its good to go back and check previous settings (white point, black point, color clipping, etc) to see if they have moved after you've made adjustments to other settings.
post #849 of 2167
Is it possible to tell if you know that it's type: 01 and sn: Z9N23SBC300064T. Or Z9K23SHC900339R ?
post #850 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by solarnoise View Post

Hi everyone,
I'm thinking very hard about picking up a EH4003, but I'm worried about input lag with my pre-HD consoles like PS2, Xbox, PS1, and N64
I know I won't get a CRT experience, but can anyone vouch for how well the "Game Mode" works to help with input lag? I'd be using component or s-video where possible. I'd REALLY appreciate some first-hand knowledge and advice!
Thanks guys

Hi all, sorry to bump but can anyone vouch for the input lag on these TV's with say, a PS2 or other older console? I need to make a decision asap whether to exchange the TV I got for Xmas (A Sony Bravia with pretty bad input lag).

Specifically I really want to know if the Game Mode works or if it's just a gimmick.
post #851 of 2167
Hi there,

just for info, this is the link to samygo forum regarding EH4003 -> EH6030 switching because DLNA feature through WIFI dongle (Ralink 2570 chipset):
https://forum.samygo.tv/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=5284

It seems promising... Could anybody help with TDM codes for the model to switch to correct wifi usb dongle?

Thanks.
post #852 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

Yes, it sounds like the PS3 is outputting full range RGB.
1) RGB full range + black level "normal" = correct
2) RGB full range + black level "low" = crush/clip
3) RGB limited range + black level "normal" = washout
4) RGB limited range + black level "low" = correct
I set the gamma to -1 because it seems to me like the gamma is a little low (< 2.2) based on some eyeball tests.
http://www.lcdreviewz.com/GammaCorrection
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php
(Note that those types of tests ^ will only work correctly if the TV is in "PC" mode where it is NOT subsampling the picture.)
Correctly setting the gamma is more advanced calibration though and is better done with a meter than by eye.
On the Flashing Color Bars pattern, I believe all you need is a blue filter. There are a few more patterns that need R, G, and B filters but I don't think that one does.
On my set, green clips first before the other colors. I had make some adjustments to keep green from clipping to early, and that meant either lowering the white point, or lowering the overall color. I lowered the color which made the tint and color behave differently in the Flashing Color Bars pattern. Setting the color to 38 or 49 for Standard and Movie respectively kept green from clipping and the G46/R54 tint was the setting that made the bars blend the best with that slightly lower color.

However, I just did another calibration pass the other day and ended up lowering the white point slightly in order to have the colors track better. I updated my calibration post with the latest results, which now has the tint at 50/50. The color saturation is higher to compensate for the lowered white point. The Flashing Color Bars all blend together with the current setting, and on Misc A4 Color clipping pattern, the colors clip at about 235 which is where they should clip at.
When you calibrate, changing a setting in one spot affects other spots. Raising or lowering the white point will shift where the colors clip at. That's why its good to go back and check previous settings (white point, black point, color clipping, etc) to see if they have moved after you've made adjustments to other settings.


Awesome! Cheers for yet another informative response.

I forgot to ask this in my previous post regarding colour temperature, but if I do decide that I want to switch from Warm1 to Normal using your settings, will there be any other corrections I'll need to make to those settings to adjust or equal out something?
post #853 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobble9 View Post


Awesome! Cheers for yet another informative response.
I forgot to ask this in my previous post regarding colour temperature, but if I do decide that I want to switch from Warm1 to Normal using your settings, will there be any other corrections I'll need to make to those settings to adjust or equal out something?

I would probably check the brightness and contrast as the different color temperatures might move the white and black points around very slightly. And of course readjust the white balance fine tuning (RGB Gain/Offset) for whichever color temp you go with.
post #854 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I would probably check the brightness and contrast as the different color temperatures might move the white and black points around very slightly. And of course readjust the white balance fine tuning (RGB Gain/Offset) for whichever color temp you go with.

Hmm, the first part I should be able to do fine. As for adjusting the RGB Gain/Offset, I wouldn't really know how to go about calibrating that to a satisfactory level. Is there a specific tool inside the calibration kit that would help with getting it right, or would you be able to offer any specific values? Thanks.
Edited by jobble9 - 1/3/13 at 10:41pm
post #855 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobble9 View Post

Hmm, the first part I should be able to do fine. As for adjusting the RGB Gain/Offset, I wouldn't really know how to go about calibrating that. Is there a specific tool inside the calibration kit for that, or would you be able to offer any specific values? Thanks.

Unfortunately you can't really do it by eye. You're eyes will naturally adjust to whatever white balance they're looking at, which makes it difficult to try and set.

If you see obvious color cast to the greyscale though, you can try and remove it. I could see obvious pink tint to the gray scale so I turned down the red and blue gains on mine.
post #856 of 2167
we just bought 40EH5300 today..

1. i noticed that when we connect our laptop (hdmi to hdmi), our screen brightness doesnt have the option "DYNAMIC"? why does it gets removed?

2. i also noticed that when we use Youtube application, and play an HD video, the TV chooses the highest resolution of the video and plays it... by doing this, the video is stopping , coz our internet is slow.... is there an option to make "360p" the default resolution for all the youtube videos?

pls reply. smile.gif
post #857 of 2167
Hey guys, I have a question.

I am wondering if you think there's any shot in fixing or minimizing the damage of this scratch or marking on my EH5000.

ivMJp.jpg
5P4ry.jpg
post #858 of 2167
Hello, I joined you in this forum today and I would like to do some questions(excuse me for my English, I'm Italian).
I was searching for a 32 inches LED TV this Samsung serie likes me very much. Reading almost the entire thread I didn't clearly understand if:

-the EH5000 and EH5300 are the same model except for some minor things like HDMI port number, PIP, and so on?

-which one between them do you suggest of buying?

-which panel is the best(for both of them)?

-I'm interested in low input lag for console gaming and image quality(black deepness, natural colours, etc.), is there a real difference between the two models(input lag and image quality or motion quality over all) or I can choose any of them with confidence?

Finally both of them suffer of panel's lottery or buying a EH5000 I can avoid the lottery and find directly the best panel?

Thank you in advance for your answers.

Best regards
Edited by OldEric - 1/5/13 at 1:52am
post #859 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

Unfortunately you can't really do it by eye. You're eyes will naturally adjust to whatever white balance they're looking at, which makes it difficult to try and set.
If you see obvious color cast to the greyscale though, you can try and remove it. I could see obvious pink tint to the gray scale so I turned down the red and blue gains on mine.

That seems about right. I've set the colour tone to "Normal" now, and from what I can see, none of the "White Levels" need changing. That said, if you would be able to look through your set on the same colour tone level and see if you found the same result, that would be mighty helpful. Of course, if it's too much of a hassle, that's alright! I appreciate all the help you've given me already, so it's up to you.
post #860 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by xcrunner529 View Post

Hey guys, I have a question.
I am wondering if you think there's any shot in fixing or minimizing the damage of this scratch or marking on my EH5000.

That looks pretty deep to me. I don't know of a way to minimize that. I assume you can't exchange it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldEric View Post

Hello, I joined you in this forum today and I would like to do some questions(excuse me for my English, I'm Italian).
I was searching for a 32 inches LED TV this Samsung serie likes me very much. Reading almost the entire thread I didn't clearly understand if:
-the EH5000 and EH5300 are the same model except for some minor things like HDMI port number, PIP, and so on?

-which panel is the best(for both of them)?
-I'm interested in low input lag for console gaming and image quality(black deepness, natural colours, etc.), is there a real difference between the two models(input lag and image quality or motion quality over all) or I can choose any of them with confidence?
Finally both of them suffer of panel's lottery or buying a EH5000 I can avoid the lottery and find directly the best panel?
Thank you in advance for your answers.
Best regards

The EH5300 is a smart TV (has internet apps) while the EH5000 is just a TV. AFAIK they are the same picture wise.

Look at the link in my sig for information about the panels. Both the EH5000 and 53000 use multiple panels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jobble9 View Post

That seems about right. I've set the colour tone to "Normal" now, and from what I can see, none of the "White Levels" need changing. That said, if you would be able to look through your set on the same colour tone level and see if you found the same result, that would be mighty helpful. Of course, if it's too much of a hassle, that's alright! I appreciate all the help you've given me already, so it's up to you.

I don't have a "normal" option. Just cool, standard, warm 1, and warm 2. Maybe normal=standard on non-US sets.

To my eyes, they all look too cool a temperature and look pinkish. If I set the white balance sliders at the defaults then leave the room for a while and come back the screen looks pink to me. That's why I turned down the blue and red gains.

Warm 1 and warm 2 look the closest to being accurate, but I still think they need some adjustments over the default white balance.
post #861 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by hell911 View Post

we just bought 40EH5300 today..
1. i noticed that when we connect our laptop (hdmi to hdmi), our screen brightness doesnt have the option "DYNAMIC"? why does it gets removed?
2. i also noticed that when we use Youtube application, and play an HD video, the TV chooses the highest resolution of the video and plays it... by doing this, the video is stopping , coz our internet is slow.... is there an option to make "360p" the default resolution for all the youtube videos?
pls reply. smile.gif

any1 help? frown.gif
post #862 of 2167
I purchased the 32EH5300 and mounted on a wall bracket for my 11 year old son to play his xBox games in his bedroom .
The problem is I dont know how to delete the Adult channels and even though I have searched extensively can find no reference anywhere on how its done, .
Can anyone tell me exactly how the adult channels are deleted please.
post #863 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Cruise View Post

I purchased the 32EH5300 and mounted on a wall bracket for my 11 year old son to play his xBox games in his bedroom .
The problem is I dont know how to delete the Adult channels and even though I have searched extensively can find no reference anywhere on how its done, .
Can anyone tell me exactly how the adult channels are deleted please.

not sure about how to delete specific channels without doing it one by one manually but you can use the V-Chip to block them by going to Menu, System, Security and then change the pin and activate the desired rating/content blocks
post #864 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by hell911 View Post

any1 help? frown.gif

you can only use Standard and Entertain in PC mode, it's by design
post #865 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

not sure about how to delete specific channels without doing it one by one manually but you can use the V-Chip to block them by going to Menu, System, Security and then change the pin and activate the desired rating/content blocks

OK thanks for the reply. So how do you delete individual channel,s I cant find ant reference to how this is done.
post #866 of 2167
Hello everybody, I went some minutes ago to a local store here in Italy, I found a panel I didn't read about in this thread

ue32eh5000wxzt
type 05

Was written outside the box!

Can you please help me to understand which panel refers to?

Need your help before I buy it(it costs a lot, much more than you paid it...)!
post #867 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Cruise View Post

OK thanks for the reply. So how do you delete individual channel,s I cant find ant reference to how this is done.

not sure but try pressing the channel list button or tools button to see if an option shows up or go into the menu, channel, and look for an option
post #868 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldEric View Post

Hello everybody, I went some minutes ago to a local store here in Italy, I found a panel I didn't read about in this thread
ue32eh5000wxzt
type 05
Was written outside the box!
Can you please help me to understand which panel refers to?
Need your help before I buy it(it costs a lot, much more than you paid it...)!

I don't think anyone knows how or if the version numbers relate to the panel outside the US. The Txxx, Cxxx, Hxxx, etc. versions indicate which facility the panel was made at FWIR, but I don't have any information on how the two digit versions relate.

You can still check the service menu.
post #869 of 2167
Quote:
Originally Posted by iraweiss View Post

Check this out: Samsung 2012 SmartTVs will access DirecTV without a set top box, minimalists rejoice HD
By Daniel Cooper posted Jan 10th, 2012 at 1:03 PM
http://www.engadget.com/2012/01/10/samsung-smart-tv-directv-without-stb/
This is all I know about how it works. As we have WOW cable I have not tried anything with DirectTV. Of course you can use an antenna as well for local stations. The tuner picks up all the Columbus stations just fine.
There are two audio outs: digital and analog.
Digital Audio: The optical digital output terminal will output Dolby Digital (when available) or 2 channel PCM. The digital optical output terminal only sends an audio signal in Dolby Digital when receiving Dolby Digital surround sound from a digital broadcast channel through the TV tuner or a Samsung App via a network connection. The optical digital audio output will only output in 2ch stereo from sources connected to the TV via HDMI, RCA, or USB.
Analog Audio: The television features a 3.5mm (minijack) audio output for connecting the television to an analog 2-channel receiver. You will need a minijack-to-RCA adapter to make a stereo RCA connection between the television and your AV receiver. The TV's analog audio output terminals will output 2ch audio from any of the television's source inputs.

hi,

i bought these 2 items..

a. http://www.cablewholesale.com/hires/2rca-female-3.5mm-stereo-male-adapter.jpg
b. https://www.mycablemart.com/store/images/products/1806_small.jpg

connected them from TV to the home theater (connected them 1 by 1, to test both of them), the problem is.. it wont output the sound from TV to home theater? i tried the AUX option in the home theater, still no sound.

btw~ when i choose the AUX option in home theater, it says NO signal, maybe cables are not correct or something, but it is correct. everything is fine, i dont know what is wrong with it.

pics of my HDTV and home theater ports

a. http://postimage.org/image/ngxfkzlq7/
b. http://postimage.org/image/fpgpmfhkv/
post #870 of 2167
Check your Speaker Settings menu under audio and set to External Speaker.

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