The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 31

guys i need some help, i know ps3 settings has been discussed here. but where do i change it? i do not see it under video settings (actually the only option i saw was the option where i can choose RGB and Ybcr something or automatic). also the option i have under picture settings on the samsung is only entertain and standard. how can i activate game mode? is there such option?

Thanks
Edited by darkilong - 1/14/13 at 9:10pm

^
game mode is in Menu> General> then somewhere there.. open all the options, and u will see game mode.

Something interesting tonight.

While watching Amazon Prime Instant Video my UN46EH5300 suddenly just shut down. I turned it on again, went back into the Smart Hub and Instant Video and resumed my program.

What just happened?

Hi Chicolom and everyone else.

I've just got an update on the issue you see quoted above. The smearing effect has been bothering me a bit more, and just to double check whether it's normal or not I've recorded a video from the opening segment of Crysis on the Xbox 360 which you can see here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5D2mYzCYuc&feature=youtu.be

(Notice the white-blueish trails on the skydiving soldiers as I move the in-game camera)

If you guys could view the video and let me know if that form of smearing or ghosting (or whatever the term for it is) is meant to be there, that would be much appreciated.

It's hard to tell if the trails are blueish because the whole video is blueish.

Most VA panels will have some smearing/ghosting on that type of scene though. I would expect to see it on mine, but not with any blue/purple trails - just black/dark grey ghosting/smearing. So if you getting blue/purple ghosting in particular then that's probably particular to the Hxxx Sharp panel.

I love that part of Crysis (jumping out of the plane and free-falling to the island)

Thanks for your response. It's good to hear that I probably don't have a faulty set.

I suppose the trails aren't really blueish then... it's more safe to say they are indeed grey/white. That said, the smearing occurs even with slight camera movement (i.e it doesn't have to be fast motion)--is that normal?

All the VA panels have some problems with smearing/ghosting on dark scenes. I don't think the speed of the motion matters. The sharp panels reportedly have blue ghosting, which is abnormal in comparison to the other panels but still seems to be normal for the sharp panels.

So if you're asking whether I think there is something abnormal/wrong with your set, I don't think there is. I would just stop trying to look for problems if I were you.

Hello there.
I'm planing on buying Samsung UE-40EH5000 and I have few questions.
I'll be using it mainly for PS3 gaming, so I'm interested in how it works. I'm concern about input lag and motion blur.
Also, I would use it for watching tv, and since it's a SD resolution, I wonder how picture quality will be.

Purchased a UE40EH5000 from Amazon and recieved a Sharp panel (40H6AFOD).

I know there is a panel lottery element here and that the Sharp is not a favoured panel. Has a clear picture emerged as to why this?

To my eyes it looks fine, though I am far from an expert. I don't play games on it. I do think that it is more reflective than i would like though I can live with it.

Anybody play Unfinished Swan on the PS3 and notice a lot of ghosting? I see this on my UN32EH4000.

Input lag is fine on these. I have the 40EH5000 and input lag is acceptable and perfectly playble on (1-2 frames, 16-33ms lag).

SD in general will look fairly bad on any HDTV.


Read the couple of posts above yours. Sharp panels seem to exhibit purple ghosting for some.

Read the link in my sig for more about the panel lottery.

And how about motion blur and ghosting? And can you tell me how gaming on this tv generally feels like? I've seen some people saying this tv isnt quite for gaming.

So I'm thinking about returning my UN32EH5000 to get the UN32EH5300 - mostly for the extra HDMI port and the smart TV features. Is the screen quality any better? Are there any other superior 32'' HDTVs for $400-500? I like the slim 32'' Sammy but its $700-800

I don't have any issues with it.

Gaming feels fine on it. The blur is better than my previous MVA TV. Good black levels make gaming more immersive.

If you go out of your way looking for non-perfect motion or ghosting on dark scenes, you will probably find something - as you would on any most LCDs. If the best motion is your #1 concern you can always get a TN panel or a plasma or something.


I haven't seen anyone say it "isn't quite for gaming" and I'm not sure what that even means or what would specifically would disqualify it from being suitable for gaming...


AFAIK they source identical panels and just have different software and ports, so I wouldn't expect the picture quality to change.

Turns out the A in the type code refers to an anti-glare Sharp screen.

Are all these Samsung panels very relfective to light sources in the room? My last TV was much more matt than glossy - a lamp beind me is just a diffuse dull glow. On the 5000 I can clearly see detail of the reflection.

I've not seen anyone else refer to this though whatever the panel they have so not sure it's a problem for anyone else? Everyone used to more glossy than matt screens?

55A1UF0E
A — panel manufacturer (A = Samsung; D = CMO; L = AUO; I = CPT)
1 — frequency (6 = 50/60 Hz; 1 = 100/120 Hz; 2 = 200/240 Hz)
U — panel (A = AntiGlare; T = TN; U = Ultra Clear)
F — resolution (F = Full HD; H = HD; U = UD)
0 — 1st, 2nd panel and so on (1st = 0; 2nd = 1 ...)
C — backlight unit (C = CCFL; L = LED; E = Edge LED)


I think AntiGlare is sort of semi-glossy. Ultra Clear might be full glossy.

It has some reflections although they are still a little smudged and fuzzy.

Thanks for the reply (both times).

I guess I can live with it (I don't like it though).

I also think it's wrong for a TV to have multiple panels, and for this to be obfuscated by removing any indication from the label on the box (which seems to be the case here in the UK at least). How can you base you purchasing decision on reviews if the panel, which is the bit you spend your time looking at, is different?
Edited by CBX2013 - 1/23/13 at 1:58am

Yep, panel lotteries are pretty annoying. It would be nice if every tv had the same panel so you could trust different reviews and have consistency in the picture quality.


Removing any identifiers from the box is especially frustrating. Informed shoppers should at least be able use those to find the panel they want. Using different panels is one thing, but trying to remove all evidence of it is another, and just seems like shady behavior.

There shouldn't be any randomness involved in a $500+ purchase.

By blurring/ghosting I meant something like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lBD2wRgiAo
I'm getting dizzy just by watching it.

As for "isn't quite for gaming", well, I've seen some people commenting its good for movies and PC monitor, but not quite for console gaming.

OK. That video looks pretty bad.

I still don't know what you mean by "not quite for console gaming." You'll have to be more specific. I think it's perfectly fine for consoles, and I'm pretty sure many people in this thread use it with consoles, myself included.

The things I think of that would make a TV bad for console gaming are high input lag and excessive motion blur, and it doesn't have either of those.
Edited by chicolom - 1/23/13 at 5:37am

Well, as I said, I've seen some people complaining about motion blur. I havent seen anyone complaining about input lag, tho. But I'm quite noobish when it comes to TVs, so reading few bad impressions with this tv got me scared

So, there's no ghosting/blurring on EH5000 like on that video I posted?

Oops, sorry for double post.

No, It definitely doesn't look as bad as that video.

All LCDs have some ghosting and motion blur though. It's just con of the technology. So maybe all LCDs are "not quite for console gaming."

I don't have any problems with mine though and I use it for gaming (FYI I have a Samsung S-PVA panel).

Hey Chicolom,

I came upon this thread a few months ago, which happened to be within a couple weeks of starting to read Mad's headphone gaming guide. It was cool to see you in both places. I appreciate all the work you've done to help people identify the different panels in the lottery as well as sharing your calibration settings.

I've decided to go with the UN40EH5300, simply because I want that third HDMI port (could care less about the smart apps, though). The Xbox and PS3 will already take up two and my wife is requesting a Wii U this year, so it's the best option. I'm just waiting for 2013 models to start rolling out so the price will come down some more.

Anyway, I had a question about your calibration. What kind of room lighting did you have while performing calibration? I typically game and watch movies with the lights on; otherwise my eyes get fatigued sooner. Will calibration require any compensation if my ambient light amount is different from yours? Thanks!

Ok, thanks for help. One last question, I'll more likely buy 32'' EH5000 so I just need confirmation that there's no difference between 40'' and 32'' EH5000, just screen size?

^
yes, same specs, only screen size is different.

also, i got to know that that future generation consoles, maybe like PS4 and xbox 720, will have increased frame rate in the games.

thats why if you will be buying new console this year, get a 120hz refresh rate TV.

there are no TVs on the market currently that accept a signal with a refresh rate higher than 60Hz

those so-called "120Hz TVs" are converting a 24Hz or 60Hz signal to a 120Hz one in the TV by using frame interpolation (with AMP) or just repeating frames

that being said, there are good reasons to get a 6 series Samsung LED over a 5 series one (a lot less blurring/ghosting, especially on the S-PVA UN46EH6030 that I have and can handle 24fps sources without using 2:3 pulldown)

Hey Vader2000,
I recognized your avatar from Head-Fi

You should calibrate in whatever lighting and environment your going to be using the TV in. So if you use it at night calibrate it with the lighting you have at night. Vice a versa for day. Or have two different calibrations (day cal/night cal).

I just wrote my backlight setting as "20" as I know that it will vary for each individual person and viewing environment. I don't necessarily use 20 though.


With my setup I always use bias lighting with my TV, which is when you have a light source behind the display.
There are several advantages to this:

1) Reduces or eliminates eye strain and viewing fatigue in dark viewing conditions.
2) Eliminates image contamination due to reflections, haze and glare on the screen from conventional room lighting.
3) Enhances perceived black levels, contrast ratio, and picture detail by enabling dark adapted viewing (the ambient light keeps your pupils from dilating, which makes blacks appear darker on screen.)
4) Adds depth to the image.

I highly recommend it. It should help if your getting eye fatigue while maximizing the screens picture quality.

I actually have TWO different bias lights on my TV.

One is a long CCFL tube mounted in the middle with "daylight" reveal bulb in it.
The other is a set of LED light strips that change colors/brightness via a remote.

I use the single bulb for general purpose monitor/PC stuff. I use it just as a would a conventional lamp in the room, but it also provides the benefits of a bias light at the same time.
I use the LED lights when I'm watching TV/Movies/Games as it lets me dim the light low and control the color.


When I'm just using the TV as a PC monitor I usually keep the backlight around 5-10 which is 25-50%. When I'm gaming I turn the backlight higher, anywhere from 15-20 (75%-100%). However, I also switch to Standard mode which lets the automatic backlight dimming engage, so the backlight floats around a bit automatically and will go lower on dark scenes. For games I think automatic backlight dimming makes more sense than movies, and has less of a detrimental effect. For example, it works well when and provides a cool effect when you switch a flashlight ON and OFF in a dark room.

I keep the rest of my calibration settings the same (I don't compensate for the different backlights) and just change the backlight and the mode: I switch between PC, Movie, and Standard modes depending on what I'm watching. I have them all setup to look essentially identical to each other.

I use PC for...monitor/PC use. Movie for TV. And Standard for gaming, and also for some movies/shows that have a lot of dark scenes (where the automatic backlight dimming is more beneficial)

Hope that helps!



Oh, here are two pictures showing an example from each of the two bias lights:




This is what both lights look like installed on the back of the TV:


Edited by chicolom - 1/23/13 at 11:33pm

I downloaded the 1011 firmware off the samsung website. My tv has 1014. Yet after it scans for the 1011 firmware on the usb it says do you want to upgrade version 1014 to 1011. So is 1011 a new update?

1011<1014

I wouldn't "update".