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Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 36

post #1051 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamalisms View Post

On another note, what are the must-haves of the Blue-Ray world in either 3D or otherwise (basically ones that demonstrate how awesome my new child will be), and am I correct in my feeling that I can just use suggested settings here instead of buying one of the discs and running the same stuff myself?
Thanks in advance...

I don't have my UT50 yet, but as far as settings/calibration, every panel is slightly different, so taking optimal calibrated settings from one unit to another may not produce the same result. However, PathofNeo's settings are (from all reports) an awesome place to start, and will be superior to the stock settings (especially "normal" mode, aka energystar compliance mode). It seems like many people are satisfied with them and do not tweak further.

Also, many people have tested the Samsung 3D glasses and say they work fine. The Panasonics are better build quality/fit, but also cost a lot more. I plan on getting a pair or two of the Samsung.
post #1052 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by heyman421 View Post

Can anyone tell me whether these UT50's refresh at 120hz, 96hz, or 48hz when viewing 24hz material in 3d?
And also, is the motion smoothing effect defeatable? When it's turned off, what speed does the screen refresh at? I'm concerned due to the panasonic model comparison sheet showing that only the highest-end model allows 24hz material to be shown at 96hz (4:4 pulldown) while this is a standard feature on 2012 samsung models.
I love everything about these tv's, except the ambiguity of these two issues.
I'm also curious about the previous poster's question ^^ being able to use $20 samsung glasses would be a nice bonus.

From the reading I've done, the UT50 will do either 48Hz or 60Hz in 3D from 24p sources. Some users claim that 48Hz provides the best experience, with little cross talk and no flickering, while others claim 60Hz is better as they notice flicker at the lower setting. To get 96Hz you have to step up to the VT I think (or maybe the GT has it in 2012?).
post #1053 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamalisms View Post

Hey guys,
Glad I found this thread (and site). I've been researching TVs for a few days, as I try to upgrade from our dinosaur, and I've settled in on the 50" UT50 from Best Buy. I'll sell the XBox and basically pay $600-$650 for this TV... which is ridiculous.
Anywho, the reason I'm posting is because I'm trying to get a modest home environment setup, since we'll have a nice TV now. The TV will be mounted on the wall a bit above eye-level, so I'm going to have to get a slight tilt in the mount, which isn't really a problem. Beyond that, I'm planning on buying a blue-ray (probably the BDT220) and then I need to decide what to do about sound... and that's really my question to the group here.
Our house is very small, and not much sound is needed to have something be audible from one side of the house to the other (850 sq ft footprint). With that said, I'm going to be looking for more than the TV speakers offer, as I like to listen to music and just generally would like to have better sound if I have a TV that isn't a decade+ old. I thought about posting in a more general sound forum, but decided to ask in a thread about the specific TV I'm buying to get suggestions from people actually using this same TV.
As I've been looking, I've sort of settled in on getting a sound bar as opposed to more complete systems... but I'm all ears if anyone feels that might be inadequate. Either way, does anyone suggest a particular speaker set-up/brand/product/specific piece over others? Reviews on CNet have led me to maybe a Haier SBEV40-Slim or a Vizio VHT215. My only concern with those boils down to my absence of knowledge. Will they broadcast sound well enough, do they degrade the sound somehow, are there general compatability issues that I need tobe aware of and verify aren't an issue, is there one setup (ARC or otherwise) that works better than others? I'm just trying to fill in the gaps of my knowledge here, and at the same time am ooking for a recommendation. I also liked a ZVOX Z-Base 580 that I saw at Best Buy, but it's probably more than I would want to spend.
Would I be better off merging a Panasonic Blue Ray and TV with a Panasonic soundbar?
On another note, what are the must-haves of the Blue-Ray world in either 3D or otherwise (basically ones that demonstrate how awesome my new child will be), and am I correct in my feeling that I can just use suggested settings here instead of buying one of the discs and running the same stuff myself?
Thanks in advance...

Enjoy the UT50! I can't stop thinking about mine, I love it! I bought it 6 days ago (Wednesday) and had BB price match the bundle on Sunday. I listed the Xbox on Amazon while I was out shopping (gotta love the smartphone biggrin.gif) and had it sold in about 2 hours after posting - amazing! So you should have no problem selling yours. Gamestop is a rip off because they will not accept new, unopened items. You will have to open it for them and then they will give you the used value price for it. As far as sound, I have a very small house, too. It's even smaller than yours eek.gif but not by much. Our living room is 13' x 13' and there are 3 doorways that kind of make it difficult to set up the HT in a variety of ways. But what I bought were Polk Monitor 30s for the surround channels, they are right behind the sofa angled to the center seat. I have Polk Monitor 40s for the front mains, they are a couple inches away from either side of the TV, and a Polk CS20 for the center channel, above the TV on a stand I put together that sits behind the TV (the TV is on a TV stand, but you could wall mount the speaker). Behind our TV is a cutout in the wall for a window between the kitchen and living room so I can't wall mount anything. For a receiver I ordered a previous year's refurbished model, Yamaha RX-V667 to manage the blu ray player and video game consoles for 5.1. I love the speakers and I think they are one of the best values. I ordered all from Newegg when they would have good sales. I think I spent right around $500 for the receiver and 5 speakers - each bought at different times so I had to watch the prices and wait for them to drop again. For a subwoofer I chose to DIY Bill Fitzmaurice's Tuba HT, which is about $500 for all lumber and parts, and is very doable if you have some tools, a bit of DIY know-how, and the room for it because it's big - 24.5" x 36" x 36". But that sub fills the room easily and will amaze you. After having this speaker setup I could never go back to a HTiB or go to a soundbar. The soundbar will definitely be an improvement upon TV speakers, but if you can get a full 5.1, or even 2.1, system I can't emphasize how great it is enough - especially if you like watching movies. I bought my AVR first and couldn't use if for a month because I didn't have the speakers for it (can't run 3 ohm HTiB on a real AVR). Then I had a 2.0 set up, then 3.0, then 5.0, and finally 5.1. It was about 5 or 6 months total but well worth it, so if you can only do a little at a time, like me, you'll be much happier in the end.
post #1054 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by grambo View Post

From the reading I've done, the UT50 will do either 48Hz or 60Hz in 3D from 24p sources. Some users claim that 48Hz provides the best experience, with little cross talk and no flickering, while others claim 60Hz is better as they notice flicker at the lower setting. To get 96Hz you have to step up to the VT I think (or maybe the GT has it in 2012?).

The Panasonic 3D glasses are also rechargeable, which it why I bought them. The fellows at BB said the Samsung only lasted 3 or 4 movies. The Pannys do have a nicer frame though. But I also bought them with two 3D blu ray movies and the TV so when I chose to finance it through the store credit card I could get 0% financing for 3 years. That was the clincher on choosing the Panasonic glasses. If I were paying via non credit or non 0% credit, then I would have most likely opted for Samsung.

The UT50 does indeed only have 48 Hz and 60 Hz. 60 Hz is better for 2D playback, I notice the flicker in 48Hz and it bothers me eyes too much. I've read plenty of mixed reviews for 48 Hz for 3D playback. I'm not sure which I like more.

Can someone enlighten me on the 3D adjustments? PathofNeo said he liked 3D set at -1 for more depth but at the expense of possibly more crosstalk, how does one choose what is "right?" I was also wondering about the different 3D modes, if you press the 3D button on the remote and then the red button for "Manual" there is Native 3D and Sequential 3D, what's the difference?

Oh, and I use a Harmony 650 - there wasn't a UT50 listed in the remote controls setup so I "created" one, I didn't expect the Panasonic remote to be the same as the U50 or ST50. Is there a button, either on the Harmony that can be programmed or on the Panasonic remote, to change the color mode? My Sony LCD had "Scene" as a button that would change between standard, cinema, vivid, custom, and game. Or is this only accessible through the main menu?
post #1055 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by grambo View Post

From the reading I've done, the UT50 will do either 48Hz or 60Hz in 3D from 24p sources. Some users claim that 48Hz provides the best experience, with little cross talk and no flickering, while others claim 60Hz is better as they notice flicker at the lower setting. To get 96Hz you have to step up to the VT I think (or maybe the GT has it in 2012?).

Oh no. I think 3:2 pulldown in 2012 may have to be a deal breaker for me. 2d OR 3d.

I keep seeing reviewers say that "flicker" exists at 48hz even in 2d. I can't even imagine what it'd be like with the active glasses, too.
post #1056 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by heyman421 View Post

Oh no. I think 3:2 pulldown in 2012 may have to be a deal breaker for me. 2d OR 3d.
I keep seeing reviewers say that "flicker" exists at 48hz even in 2d. I can't even imagine what it'd be like with the active glasses, too.

I didn't think the flicker was as bad, if noticeable with 3D because of the glasses. I think the 3:2 pulldown is exceptional on his TV with 2D content. I keep checking to see if motion smoother somehow for turned on, no joke, that's how smooth the TV plays my blu rays.

Can anyone tell me what the Mode button is for on the Panasonic active glasses?
post #1057 of 2596
Another question, I was just looking through the iphone app for this TV and reviews are fairly mixed. I can get over that, but I wonder if anyone knows - I had originally thought that there would be one app that I could use for both the BDT220 and the UT50, however there appears to be separate apps from Panasonic for blue-ray and TV. Would I really need to switch between apps, or would one of them load both devices?

Also, thanks for the earlier replies.
post #1058 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Enjoy the UT50! I can't stop thinking about mine, I love it! I bought it 6 days ago (Wednesday) and had BB price match the bundle on Sunday. I listed the Xbox on Amazon while I was out shopping (gotta love the smartphone biggrin.gif) and had it sold in about 2 hours after posting - amazing! So you should have no problem selling yours. Gamestop is a rip off because they will not accept new, unopened items. You will have to open it for them and then they will give you the used value price for it. As far as sound, I have a very small house, too. It's even smaller than yours eek.gif but not by much. Our living room is 13' x 13' and there are 3 doorways that kind of make it difficult to set up the HT in a variety of ways. But what I bought were Polk Monitor 30s for the surround channels, they are right behind the sofa angled to the center seat. I have Polk Monitor 40s for the front mains, they are a couple inches away from either side of the TV, and a Polk CS20 for the center channel, above the TV on a stand I put together that sits behind the TV (the TV is on a TV stand, but you could wall mount the speaker). Behind our TV is a cutout in the wall for a window between the kitchen and living room so I can't wall mount anything. For a receiver I ordered a previous year's refurbished model, Yamaha RX-V667 to manage the blu ray player and video game consoles for 5.1. I love the speakers and I think they are one of the best values. I ordered all from Newegg when they would have good sales. I think I spent right around $500 for the receiver and 5 speakers - each bought at different times so I had to watch the prices and wait for them to drop again. For a subwoofer I chose to DIY Bill Fitzmaurice's Tuba HT, which is about $500 for all lumber and parts, and is very doable if you have some tools, a bit of DIY know-how, and the room for it because it's big - 24.5" x 36" x 36". But that sub fills the room easily and will amaze you. After having this speaker setup I could never go back to a HTiB or go to a soundbar. The soundbar will definitely be an improvement upon TV speakers, but if you can get a full 5.1, or even 2.1, system I can't emphasize how great it is enough - especially if you like watching movies. I bought my AVR first and couldn't use if for a month because I didn't have the speakers for it (can't run 3 ohm HTiB on a real AVR). Then I had a 2.0 set up, then 3.0, then 5.0, and finally 5.1. It was about 5 or 6 months total but well worth it, so if you can only do a little at a time, like me, you'll be much happier in the end.

how much did you sell the xbox for?
post #1059 of 2596
So, a question about calibration... I've seen multiple places indicate not to calibrate before the 100-200 hours mark. This is mentioned as part of a "just watch TV as normal and don't stick to just video games or just 2.35:1 movies" discussion on burn-in. I think I feel pretty good about not setting myself up for burn-in issues, but the calibration part is not quite as settled in my mind. My question is:

Does the suggestion to wait on calibration have to do with calibrating somehow being bad for pixel break-in, or is it simply a reminder that TV's will start looking different as they self-break-in so there's no need to calibrate twice... or is it something else entirely? If it's the former, I would just stick to basic settings for the first 100 hours or so. If it is the latter, I may calibrate to suggested settings as a jumping off point and then play with it as I watch.

I suspect it is the latter.

(buying a 50" UT50 tonight, along with a BDT220 blu-ray)
post #1060 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by getbigg21 View Post

how much did you sell the xbox for?

I sold it for $250 and it was sold in 2 hours. It cost $17 to ship via Fedex, it would have cost about the same for USPS with insurance and delivery confirmation. With Fedex the insurance cost is less (I think) because every package has a declared value, and it got there in 2 days (I shipped Monday afternoon and it arrive Wednesday). Amazon's commission was about $18 so my net gain is about $210. Not bad. If you choose Amazon to list it I recommend selling for a little less than the lowest price (in this case NEW, don't match the used prices). That's my method of selling and it's worked well in the past with textbooks and a few DVDs.
post #1061 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamalisms View Post

So, a question about calibration... I've seen multiple places indicate not to calibrate before the 100-200 hours mark. This is mentioned as part of a "just watch TV as normal and don't stick to just video games or just 2.35:1 movies" discussion on burn-in. I think I feel pretty good about not setting myself up for burn-in issues, but the calibration part is not quite as settled in my mind. My question is:
Does the suggestion to wait on calibration have to do with calibrating somehow being bad for pixel break-in, or is it simply a reminder that TV's will start looking different as they self-break-in so there's no need to calibrate twice... or is it something else entirely? If it's the former, I would just stick to basic settings for the first 100 hours or so. If it is the latter, I may calibrate to suggested settings as a jumping off point and then play with it as I watch.
I suspect it is the latter.
(buying a 50" UT50 tonight, along with a BDT220 blu-ray)

Here's what you should know about a new plasma (anyone feel free to comment on anything I might miss):
For calibration, people are referring to a full out colorimeter/spectrometer calibration which costs about $300 to have professionally done. You COULD have that performed out of the box but the first 100-200 hours are the most crucial to a PDP because the phosphors are brand new and the colors and brightness/contrast will change within those hours. So if you chose to have a professional calibration performed out of the box you would want to have it done after 150-200 hours because it would no longer be calibrated. However, it is strongly recommended that you do a basic calibration using a calibration disc to adjust brightness, contrast (picture if you've owned a Sony), color, tint, and sharpness. You can use the AVS HD disc, a quick search will bring up the thread with links to download the file to burn to disc - just make sure you read which file you need to download so you're not downloading the wrong file only to have it not work. Or if you own Digital Video Essentials (DVE) HD Blu Ray or Spears and Munsil, or you can use any THX certified movie like Star Wars or Terminator 2. The only caveat with the THX discs is technically they are title specific so the settings may vary slightly than a reference level calibration disc. I like Lifehacker's directions on how to calibrate and they use the AVS disc. It's like cheat sheet on what to do. The key is just know that after 150-200 hours the properties of the display will have changed a little bit than when you first turned it on so you don't want to invest a lot of money into a one time service that's guaranteed not to last. So feel free to use the settings you like and you'll be good to go. I, myself, have never had a professional calibration done, I've just stuck to the free AVS disc and left tint alone since I don't have the blue filter glasses. My current settings are:

Custom:

Contrast 78
Brightness 55
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 0

Color Temp Warm 1
Color mgmt Off
CATS Off
Video NR Off

Aspect Adjustments
FULL
Size 2

HDMI
HDMI Range Auto
Content Type Graphics


Advance picture
Mosquito NR Off
Motion Smoother Off
Black Level Light


Start with sharpness at 0 because by raising it you are actually adding data/altering the source input feed. I think most of these settings are mentioned by others, I had a tricky time telling were contrast was with the disc.

Could someone tell me if they had difficulty getting brightness down to 235? When I had contrast at around 58 the brightness couldn't get the flashing bars below 245-ish.
post #1062 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Can anyone tell me what the Mode button is for on the Panasonic active glasses?

I'm pretty sure the mode button is for watching a 3D movie in 2D mode. When you are watching a 3D movie and someone is sensitive to it they can wear the glasses and see it in 2D mode.
post #1063 of 2596
Can anyone confirm whether or not motion smoothing works in 48hz mode?

Thanks.
post #1064 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit View Post

I'm pretty sure the mode button is for watching a 3D movie in 2D mode. When you are watching a 3D movie and someone is sensitive to it they can wear the glasses and see it in 2D mode.

Yes, you are right. I tried that out and that's exactly what it does. I'm still not sure about the "tweak" for 3D adjustment in the system menu though, the -3 to +3, something with left eye distance?
post #1065 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by heyman421 View Post

Can anyone confirm whether or not motion smoothing works in 48hz mode?
Thanks.

Yes it does work. I have T2 playing as a test in 48 Hz with motion smoother set to strong. But for me 48 Hz flickers and motion smoother doesn't fix that but it does give the soap opera effect.
post #1066 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

Between the time I've spent fiddling with ST/VT50s and what I've gathered on the VT50 thread, I've made a quick list of things thus far of problems that the VT50 is having that we will never have.


- DSE (dirty screen effect)

- Rainbow efffect (similar to dlp)

- less natural crispness/vibrancy

- overall darker (despite the contrary)

- poor vertical viewing angle


That's a lot of problems right there. You know what's causing it? The louvre filter. That new and improved, every so wonderful filter will always be the Achilles' heel of the ST/GT/VT50.


The Kuro has DSE since it uses a similar filter, although not as aggressive. It's naturally less crisp because it's like having a layer of paste on the screen...something I don't want to separate me from the picture. Now the filter does block light from above and absorb for maximum contrast during the day so it will keep relatively good blacks during this time. But it will also have an overall darker appearance pound for pound.


Why does it have a rainbow effect? The answer to this is simple. Because the vertical viewing angle is absolutely horrible. You literally have to center yourself right in the middle of the screen to obtain all the information. If you move up or down then you will see a dark line rise or drop. This is that filter in action. Keep moving up/down and you'll see nothing but a black screen. It's like a line that has a shifting effect wherever it moves (according to your eyes) and that's why I call it 'the wave'. No I'm not kidding. Granted nobody's going to watch standing up like this but it does impact the experience because even a slight shift starts the 'wave' as I wanna call it. It's like a ripple effect that I thought was gone ages ago with DLP, and to a degree LCDs today. Very out of character for plasma.


Who does this impact? Well everyone unless you've plopped down a huge chunk o' change then I guess 'your not effected' now are you? I can see those that use Kinect for Xbox 360 effected by this. You stand/jump/dance/play in front of the screen and you'll be be riding the wave. On the opposite end of the spectrum.. what about those who mount it above a fireplace? Smothered under the wave.


I didn't stress this enough in my review but if your now on the fence with the UT/ST/VT then take a good long look (I mean inspect) the filter in the stores. Doesn't matter the lighting as you'll see what I'm talking about. Now that I've described the symptoms you know what to look for. I feel like I've done my duty to educate the masses on this filter and it's up to you now.


I feel okay with this rant because if your reading this then it means something compelled you to enter the UT50 thread. Maybe out of curiosity? Whatever the case I wish you well on your hunt for your ultimate display. Your always welcome to copy down the settings I provided and plug em in wherever you demo the sets. Still feel like the UT50 isn't for you? Then the joke's on me.




Does all of this annoying crap apply to the ST'30'
since it also has an Anti-Glare filter?
post #1067 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveBoy View Post

Does all of this annoying crap apply to the ST'30'
since it also has an Anti-Glare filter?

All I can say is its one persons opinion, plenty of satisfied owners out there for ST/GT/VT.
post #1068 of 2596
Assuming both are capable, is there a known advantage to doing 2D -> 3D on the TV vs through the blu-ray... or even both if that's possible (haven't tried)?

I'm going to spend some time reading through the manual a bit, but in case one of you has alreayd figured this out... is there a known way to utilize the internet connection built into my blu-ray as a means of connecting the TV (I havent yet bought the adapter) to the Viera Remote iphone app?

Bought the TV last night and played around a bit. The 3D movie Hugo definitely had it's fair share of ghosting (my first TV 3D experience). Any preferences and reasons for how you setup the 3D settings? One specific thing I wonder about is the pop out level.

We haven't gotten it mounted to the wall, so the 50" is closer to the couch than it will soon be... holy cow it's big.
Edited by jamalisms - 8/30/12 at 8:19am
post #1069 of 2596
I want to back up Anikun07 on the suggestion of an HT receiver and some speakers. I toyed with the idea of a sound bar and ended up going the receiver and various speakers route. This was one of the best decisions I made. I have found that the sound system adds more to the movie watching experience than even having a larger screen. This also goes for music as well. Anikun07's suggestions for Polk audio speakers is a good, low-price suggestion.

You could start with, say, an entry-level Onkyo or Yamaha receiver (less than $170 on sale, maybe $150) and start with a couple of small bookshelf speakers (I got a pair of Polk Audio R150 speakers on sale at Fry's for $50! Actually I bought two pairs for this price). If you put these fairly close together below the TV, then you do not need a center-chanel speaker right away. (By the way, I bought this very configuration last Christmas for my In-Laws who are getting hard of hearing and it sounds great.)

When you decide to add speakers, you can buy-up and move the smaller speakers to the back and use them as surrounds. Basically, what I am saying is that for the $200 or so that you might spend on a good sound bar, you could be a long way towards building your own surround system. Even if locating surrounds is problematic, three front-stage speakers and a good sub-woofer will be impressive.

Just my 2-cents worth.
post #1070 of 2596
Apperantly using 'component' rather than HDMI on the ST50(I'm guessing this also applies to the UT50) when gaming
causes a significant reduction in input lag. Just a heads up! Try it out and see for yourself. Some guy in the
Panasonic HDTVTest forums was quite suprised by the results. wink.gif The only downside is that you're getting inferior
picture quality. Yet choosing component over HDMI kind of sucks at the same time, since you're not getting the superior brightness, crisper/clearer image,
and what have you from an HDMI connection. :P
post #1071 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveBoy View Post

Apperantly using 'component' rather than HDMI on the ST50(I'm guessing this also applies to the UT50) when gaming
causes a significant reduction in input lag. Just a heads up! Try it out and see for yourself. Some guy in the
Panasonic HDTVTest forums was quite suprised by the results. wink.gif The only downside is that you're getting inferior
picture quality.

Not for Wii! biggrin.gif
But maybe because RCA plugs send less data and therefore less processing required. An interesting find. Was game mode possibly enabled only on the RCA input? I just mention it because that could do it too, but I expect that was tested.
post #1072 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Not for Wii! biggrin.gif
But maybe because RCA plugs send less data and therefore less processing required. An interesting find. Was game mode possibly enabled only on the RCA input? I just mention it because that could do it too, but I expect that was tested.

Well I don't do playstation and especially xbox anymore, i'm strictly Nintendo. XP
It's been that way since the 80's with a splash of genesis and atari thrown into the mix! hehe

As for RCA(You're talking about basic composite 'Yellow' right?). Those will ADD more input lag in comparison to component and that
has to do with Composite being limmited to being interlaced i'm guessing which adds additional lag in comparison to progressive which component(green,red &
blue) provides. B-)

I've done testing on my X5 and every Plasma & LCD before it and using basic Composite/RCA cables is just a bad idea to begin with.
Laggyness to the extreme! I've noticed however that HDMI usually delivers higher input lag over component....Component seems to always be the sweet spot, at
least in my case which is dissapointing since HDMI delivers better pq. :P Also, he didn't mention game mode but it's probably ideal. Panasonic plasmas look fantastic in game mode imo.
Game mode produces one hell of a bright image on these new panny's i've got to say! XD And i guess we need to keep in mind that practically all of these users ARE using HDMI on their UT50 & ST50's for gaming,
and they're complaining about the lag....I'd totaly love to hear their opinions after switching it up to component.
Edited by WaveBoy - 8/31/12 at 6:12am
post #1073 of 2596
Not trolling here, just want to hear from those, who could actually compare:
P50UT50 or Samsung PN51E550 ?
I'm currently choosing between those two models. I saw them side-by-side in local BestBuy, but haven't had a chance to play with settings. On the (default) settings they were, I liked the Samsung picture more. Though it doesn't mean much.
Surely, I'm scared by those infamous accidental IR test published by Cnet.
Thanks.
post #1074 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by barber76 View Post

Not trolling here, just want to hear from those, who could actually compare:
P50UT50 or Samsung PN51E550 ?
I'm currently choosing between those two models. I saw them side-by-side in local BestBuy, but haven't had a chance to play with settings. On the (default) settings they were, I liked the Samsung picture more. Though it doesn't mean much.
Surely, I'm scared by those infamous accidental IR test published by Cnet.
Thanks.

I think it's safe to say that the UT50 would 'slay' the E550 concerning black levels.
And I'm sure the UT50 provides a brighter image(Game & Vivid mode). But there have been complaints about
this so called 'soft' oil painting look when viewing 720p content on the 2012 panny plasmas...And input lag at least
via HDMI(Component apperantly might be a different story) is worse than last years models. Plus, i'm betting the panny's
like my X5 'when watching movies' have a noisy picture forcing you to drop the sharpness down to 'Zero'

Somebody also mentioned the EE50 does 2 frames/32ms of lag in game mode Via HDMI, or you can label HDMI 'PC' and get 1 frame/16ms(which
is the best any HDTV get for gaming) but color, color temp and sharpness, ect are locked out from the basic picture controls.
Man, your best bet is just to take both home and try them out for yourself so you can decide. I for one wont be going
with the UT50 this year, because of the soft image it generates for 720p content AND the higher input lag in comparison
to last years models. As for the E550, i just don't feel comfortable buying a Samsung Plasma. XP The E550's dimmer picture for gaming and weaker blacks(in comparison
to the UT50) would most definitly bug me. tongue.gif
post #1075 of 2596
By saying RCA connectors I meant both component and composite. But that makes sense about component beings lower because of the interlaced signal. Wave boy, did you buy a UT50? I was wondering what you have for settings on it.

Does anyone know if there is a remote button that changes the "Scene" - as it's called by Sony, but the picture mode, i.e. custom, game, cinema, etc.?
post #1076 of 2596
I preformed an input lag test on the UT50 in game mode with all of the possessing turned off and the majority of the photos put it at 34ms of lag. I did have one photo that was 17ms though. This was via the hdmi out on my laptop in 720p, my laptop doesn't output 1080p if it did it might have tested better. I tested the laptops monitor against my HD CRT and it showed 0ms of lag. I know the proper way to test for lag is to have two video outs, one connected to a CRT and the other connected to the TV you are testing but my laptop only has one HDMI out so take this for what it is. I had the Panasonic S30 for about a week last year and this television feels just like that with regard to input lag and I believe that one tested at 16ms. I'm not sure if I could feel the difference between 1 to 2 frames of lag though. I had to return the S30 because it had fluctuating brightness that drove me nuts. Anyway, I hope this helps and doesn't complicate things more.

BTW today is the last day to get the UT50 and XBox 360 from Best Buy for $849!!! Making the price of the TV essentially $600!!!

LB
post #1077 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

By saying RCA connectors I meant both component and composite. But that makes sense about component beings lower because of the interlaced signal. Wave boy, did you buy a UT50? I was wondering what you have for settings on it.
Does anyone know if there is a remote button that changes the "Scene" - as it's called by Sony, but the picture mode, i.e. custom, game, cinema, etc.?

The remote doesn't have a dedicated button to changing the picture mode, you have to open the menu to do it.

LB
post #1078 of 2596
I am planning on purchasing a new Panasonic plasma for our daughter for Christmas this year. She "trusts" me implicitly on TV's and would be glad with anything I chose/purchased for her with the caveat that it must be "about" 50"...which is reasonable request given that she will be sitting about 10' from the screen. OK...so she "hates" 3-D, and will not be "streaming" videos...I purchased a Panasonic Blu-ray for her last year, BTW, and she likes the "discs." So my question is: Panasonic TC-P50U50, OR the P50UT50 ??? I know the "U" has no 3-D and no big streaming options, and that is fine...and is only available in the 50" size (fine again), but is there any difference in processing quality or any other "picture quality" issue? I read that both models are rather inferior in a room with significant light. Please help me discern whether there is a appreciable difference in potential for better picture quality in the UT. Thanks !
post #1079 of 2596
Does anyone else's UT50 squeak on the pedestal? When I walk near the TV stand and the TV moves it squeaks. It's getting rather annoying but I don't know how I would fix that.
post #1080 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Does anyone else's UT50 squeak on the pedestal? When I walk near the TV stand and the TV moves it squeaks. It's getting rather annoying but I don't know how I would fix that.

Mount it. biggrin.gif
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