Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 44

The way you describe your dead TV sounds like a good description of the UT50. I'm just very particular about reflections and once I notice them I have a hard time seeing what I'm supposed to see. I think you'll have a nearly identical experience with the UT50 based on what you've said.

i have my 55ut50 for about 2 weeks now and im a not very satisfied with the picture quality,my question is...does after 100-150 hours it gets much better in the image department or just a little bit better? i have 30 days for returning but i see all the people here talking about how good this set is so im comfuse.for me it does no look sharp it look a little blury too even with the darbee on,i used to have a un46d6400 samsumg the have a beautyfull picture quality but the motion blur was making me crazy.any color set up you can throw at me? any advice? my current settings set up is..

sony bdp-s790 blur ray

screen format-full (normal is the other choice)
cinema convertion mode-auto.....(video is the other choice)
output video format-Auto (original resolution or 1080p should i choose?)
bd-rom 24p output-ON (auto or off are the others choice)
4k output-Auto (off is the other choice)
YcbCr/RGB (hdmi) Auto (YcbCr (4:2:2)....YcbCr (4:4:4)....and RGB are the others choice)
deep color-Auto
smb-ON
video settings-Direct (brighter room,theather room,auto,custom 1&2 are the others choices)

i set the pictures on the tv to defaults because i was not satisfied but i try these settings...


Picture mode - Cinema

Contrast - 78
Brightness - 52
Color - 48
Tint - +1
Sharpness - 0
Color Temp - Warm 2
Color Mgmt - Off
C.A.T.S. - Off
Video NR - Off

HDMI Settings

RGB Range - Auto
Content type - Graphics

Advanced

Block NR - Off
Mosquito NR - Off
Motion Smoother - Off
Black Level - Light
3:2 Pulldown - Auto

im still not satisfied but as i ask...do i have to wait? does it gets any better? thanks for the help in advance!!!

Set your BDP to 1080p, YCC 4:2:2, disable deep color. You may like increasing contrast to mid to upper 80s and set brightness to 49-50. What don't you like about the picture?

I've got my UT50E, i'm amazed by the pq, but the sound is terriibblleee. It has no deep or anything, anybody have a good set on the sound?

I think that's part of TV speakers. If it really bothers you, then I recommend at least a sound bar but would truly suggest at least a 2.0/2.1 stereo system.

Hi Everybody,

I am posting here instead of the U50 thread because that forum has negligible traffic and I think the panels
are very similar between my p60u50 and the p60ut50. I see, on occasion, orangish tint to skin tones. And
last Sunday it was REAL apparent watching Joe Buck and Troy Aikman. I am using Kaitzmeir's settings from
CNET. Anybody seeing this? I am going to take a picture this week and update this. Any input would be appreciated.
By the way, these are the settings in Cinema mode. As an aside, on my last tv - TH-50PX80U, I saw orange tint on
skin on shows like The Office. The new one looks fine when viewing that. Weird.

Thanks!

My guess would be color is too high or tint is leaning toward red. On the UT50 color is good between 48-50 and if you have color there already, maybe try pushing tint a step or two toward green. Otherwise, a little more technical, might be a red shift in the white balance. Are you using warm 2 for your color temp? It may look orange if your not used to it. Cinema mode should be pretty good though. It may just be the source broadcast, too.

I have a DTS-HD 7.1 Yamah A/V receiver and Wharfdale floorstand speaker. But it bothers me after the PX80, cause the PX had an awsome sound.

I haven't used TV speakers in years. Especially after I built my sub, without it the speakers are good, but the fullness of the sub with real speakers just seals the deal for me. I also don't watch TV (OTA or cable), but I would send the audio out to the AVR.

So I nabbed a P50UT50 since Best Buy has them on sale...

I've only had it for like an hour and I'm already disappointed. The motion resolution doesn't really seem much better than on the LCDs or DLPs I've tried lately... and the overall picture doesn't look that great to me. I've tried multiple different setting combos from the settings thread.

My Optoma HD20 DLP projector looks better than this thing to me even just on a white wall with no screen, and the Sony 42" EX640 I purchased a couple of weeks ago looks WAY better than this thing to me.

Also it almost looks like the picture is strobing/flickering to me. No one else seems to notice but me though. Hmm....

Even after just an hour I'm pretty sure I'm returning this Plasma and then it's just a decision between the projector and the Sony LCD.

Edit: It's starting to look better to me now after it has been on for longer ... but I'm noticing some strange faint green blob near the bottom middle of the screen when I run the scrolling bar utility thing...
Edited by damag0r - 11/15/12 at 10:55pm

What software should I use if I'm running a PC with this to use the 24p direct in?

Hmm... it is looking a LOT better now after it's been on for over an hour.

However, still noticing what seems almost like flickering... and when I run the scrolling bar utility I'm seeing a faint green blob near the middle bottom of the screen that wasn't there when I first turned it on before watching anything.

Edit: I don't know if it was running that pixel jogger w/ pink noise video for a bit or just leaving it on for a while, but it's looking quite great now. The motion quality is improved over the LCD and the DLP but the sample-and-hold type blurring still isn't 100% eliminated... but I guess there's no such thing as perfection in this department, at least not yet.
Edited by damag0r - 11/15/12 at 8:39pm

If you're watching 24p content make sure you have it set to 60Hz because 48Hz will look like it's flickering.

Just watching content off of my satellite receiver, that setting is greyed out and stuck on 60hz. It's less noticeable after watching for a while, but it's still there. Quite odd... I think I can get used to it if this is something normal. Could it be part of their technology for making motion better (emulating CRT flicker more or less) ?

Depending on the content the motion on this set looks as good as a CRT... on other content I still sometimes see the sample-and-hold type ghosting, but it is certainly reduced. I may decide to keep this one after all.

The only things that scare me are the faint green blobs I'm seeing when I run the scrolling bar utility and I like to watch a lot of old 4:3 content sometimes and I don't want noise burning into the screen... I'm afraid of this because many many years ago when I had a very cheap Olevia LCD it had bad IR issues and after watching a couple of days of 4:3 content or playing 4:3 aspect ratio games I got two vertical lines down the screen that lasted for about a month, was really annoying... and anything red displayed for long on the screen would stick the same.

Oh well I got them to print out a "gift" receipt so I have until the 24th of January to decide if this set is right for me. My projector can be returned to Amazon until Jan the 31st also... so I think I'll hold onto both this Panny Plasma and the Optoma HD20 projector for a while and just return the Sony XR640, which looked very very excellent imo... easily best PQ in my mind I've ever seen except for the LCD sample-and-hold effect which I'm suddenly noticing on newer LCDs with super low pixel response time and much improved overall PQ and clarity.

The flickering is only quite noticeable when the background is mostly white or of a solid off white color like in some animated shows or when there is a scene and someone is lying on a bed with really white sheets.

Could it be the ABL? Can I really not disable it completely? I don't care about power consumption one bit.

If it's not that I'm just going to blame the 2500 FFD and assume it's the reason why the motion quality is so much better on this thing, and accept it as I prefer the flicker to the sample-and-hold motion syndrome.
Edited by damag0r - 11/16/12 at 12:36am

And again if anyone knows: What software should I use on a PC to use the 24p direct in feature?

ABL is just brightness and would have nothing to do with flickering. Are you sure you're not seeing dithering or dirty screen effect? The 2500 Hz sub field refresh rate is why the display handles motion better, but it shouldn't be creating any type of flickering.

What do you want to use 24p for? If you want blu ray playback then you just need BD capable software. There are many free softwares, though they require a decrypter in order to play the disc and you want have disc menu support. If you want a paid software which support full BD playback, then you could look at TMT5, PDVD 12, or WinDVD 11. I think Nero has a media suite too. If you just want 24 Hz in your PC, then just set the display refresh rate to 23 Hz for 23.9xx Hz or 24 Hz for 24 Hz.

hi can someone please send me pathofneo's settings please . kind regards

Either I'm blind or they've been removed from his post on the settings thread.

I'm having trouble getting this thing exactly how I'd like it.... one thing is... I notice everyone seems to be using warm2, but I can definitely tell that makes the colors off on my set... it makes skin tones orangish... i prefer setting warm1 and increasing the "color" setting to like 55 or so.

I tried using the AVS 709 .mp4s played from MPC-HC to calibrate and I could never quite get bar 17 on the black clipping .mp4 to flash. As far as the white calibration I don't think I was getting it right at all... and I ended up with a brightness level of like 73 on "Custom".... in the end I gave up and just set it back to how I had it before which was Custom: Contrast 82 or 83, Brightness 58, Color 55, Tint +1, Color temp: warm1 (not warm2)... I can tell Warm 2 is making a lot of the colors way off when I compare it to my well calibrated computer monitor. Warm 1 isn't quite warm enough though... I just had to set Warm 1 and sort of compensate a bit by jacking color up a bit higher than the rest of you seem to be. To me none of the color temp settings are ideal... "normal" actually seems to be most accurate overall when compared to my well calibrated monitor... but it's not warm enough... so I'm just dealing with warm1 as a compromise... which still isn't quite warm enough. The "warmer" I take it the more off the colors get though overall.

I think this thing needs calibration from the service menu. I'm a bit disappointed the white balance settings can't be accessed from the normal menus....

I'm almost certainly keeping this TV, but I'm annoyed at how much I'm fiddling with the settings and I still can't get it quite right.... the Sony EX640 I'm returning because I can't stand the sample-and-hold LCD motion had near perfect color calibration out of the box with only very very minor tweaks, and the white balance settings were available from the normal menu... not that it was off enough for me to even want to try messing with them. Even the Sony BX450 I tried before the EX640 was almost as close color wise out of the box.

I think if I had the service menu codes I might be able to fix the white balance by eye to get it close enough for my tastes... but that's really hard to do without a meter... I wonder how much a pro-calibration will cost... I think I saw someone mention they paid $450 for one... yuck... I refuse to pay that much for a calibration that takes less than an hour... like somehow one hour of work is worth $450 just because some guy has the right equipment... *rolls eyes*. I emailed the place down the road for a quote, if it's reasonable I'll have it done... but I just can't see myself paying much more than $100 for what I could easily do myself if I had the right equipment and software. I had a maid clean my house for 4 hours yesterday and I only had to pay her $69 (it was a promotional offer and I gave her a $100 tip just because I felt like it) .I got lucky re: my computer monitor, when a friend was in town, he made an ICC profile for me and I didn't have to pay a dime.

The PQ is overall very good on this TV.... but not as good in some respects compated to either of the Sony LCDs I tried before this one... I think it left the factory not too well calibrated... I'm really just nitpicking some minor things regarding the color though... The one place it really shines though is the motion quality is much better than the LCDs. It's not as good as a CRT, but it's good enough that even with this 50" which is almost painfully huge for this bedroom I don't often notice the sample-and-hold "blur ghosts" (best term I can come up with for describing them). With the LCDs I'd notice 2-5 "ghosts" following moving objects just depending... on this UT50 most of the time I don't see it at all... and in the case I do it's usually only 1 "ghost"... or the blur is compressed into a much smaller area... but once in a while I still notice it is as bad as the LCD... like I was watching King of the Hill last night and a beer can was slid across the table and I swear I saw 5 of them while it was moving, just like I would on one of the LCDs I tried earlier this month. This is the only case I've seen bad motion blur from this set though. Long story short is it's improved enough and gone enough most of the time I'll probably keep this set just for that reason alone.

I also still notice a very faint strobe/flicker effect from this TV, and I don't think it has anything to do with the dithering... because I see that sometimes... which is another minor gripe, but not a deal breaker... it's especially noticeable when reading white subtitles on dark scene with lots of action for some reason. I guess part of it it's the way I have to move my eyes back and forth constantly to read the subs. It almost looks rainbowy?? Like somewhat similar to DLP rainbowing but different.

I wonder why I've suddenly become so sensitive and notice all these things lately.. I miss being poor... back then I was happy with whatever I could afford... now I scrutinize everything I buy because I can afford such a wider range of displays. Maybe my brain chemistry has changed slightly or something and it's making me sensitive to all of these artifacts I'd normally never notice. *shrug*
Edited by damag0r - 11/17/12 at 5:37am

I think this is a good starting point...

Picture Mode : Custom
Contrast : +78
Brightness : +46
Color : +39
Tint : 0
Sharpness: 52

Color Temp: Warm 1
Color Mgmt.: Off
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off

HDMI Settings
HDMI/DVI RGB Range: Auto
Content Type: Graphics

Block NR: Auto
Mosquito NR: On
Motion Smoother: Weak
Black Level: Light
3:2 pulldown: Auto

I like how the picture looks with these settings. I guess that is all that matters to me. Others will most certainly disagree. So you can make any change to fit your room and viewing needs.
Edited by markjrenna - 11/23/12 at 12:18pm

Cinema Mode with Warm 2 is the closest you will get to D65 and Gamma 2.2 on the UT50 without calibration. Unless your TV was calibrated wrong at the factory this will give you the most accurate picture. If you use Custom Mode you will have a picture with more pop but your gamma tracking will suffer. If you choose not to use Warm 2 then you are choosing to adjust the picture to what you like and not D65. There is nothing wrong with not trying to achieve D65, it's simply the standard enthusiasts aim for to reproduce the picture as the director intended it to be. PathofNeo and I can only give settings that look good to us and we are both aiming for D65 on our sets. Warm 2 will look orange at first, but that's part of getting used to a closer white balance at 6504K.

Oh I know what you mean... after I had my monitor calibrated I thought it was a little brown+red on the whites (sorta orangish I guess)... but when you set this thing to "warm 2" on either cinema or custom it is too far orange and it's taking the blues and greens off where they should be with it... I almost feel like if I could set it somewhere inbetween warm1 and warm2 I might like it... also I can barely even tell the difference between cinema and custom on my set... I can tell the gamma is off on "custom", but I admit I do like the colors to have a bit of "punch", especially when I'm watching something animated and not live action.

Edit: Actually I don't know if "D65" is the same thing you'd calibrate a computer monitor to, but my point is however my monitor has been calibrated with a meter and an ICC profile, I like it. It's just using the iCC profile from TFTcentral and tweaked ever so slightly for my specific one.

Basically I like it D65 but with the color saturation punched up just ever so slightly. Lately I use my monitor as a guide for calibration... Then once I get it as close to what my monitor looks like with the same image, I turn up the "color" setting just a few notches.

I'm getting used to my settings now though, so I think I might just leave it be unless I can get it calibrated professionally for a reasonable price.

Custom or Cinema depending on content
Contrast: 76-83 depending on source
Brightness 52-58 depending on source
Color 52 to 55 depending on source
Tint: 0
Sharpness 0 to 5
Black level: Light

Everything else OFF

Edit: Some thoughts on IR:

I did "break in" the set for like 15 hours with the pixel jogger .mp4s.. and the scrolling bar utility. I also did some testing today by leaving the set on channels with offensive white and bright logos in the corner for 4-7 hours (they do go away during commercials though), and I can only tell there's any at all when using the scrolling bar utility and it fades within a minute or so. Also the green blobs/streaks I saw at the bottom/middle of the screen when running the scrolling bar utility are slowly fading. I'm going to punish it later on with like 6-8 hours of a gaming HUD later on and see what happens. I'm guessing the people with IR problems on the Panasonic plasmas are either just unlucky and/or running their contrast at 100 like retards. *fingers crossed*
Edited by damag0r - 11/18/12 at 2:22am

Hi!
Will the Panasonic TY-EW3D10 glasses work with my UT50?

Download this UT50 service manual:
http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc-p55ut50_ch_gpf15du.pdf/download.html

It will show how enter the service menu (mode), adjustments and save the orignals settings on SD card first.

Don't bother with a professional calibration as your "cheap" UT50 model don't have advanced user (ISF) menu's/modes: wb, gamma, grayscale, RGB finetune adjustments etc.

You can do the White Balance Adjustment (WB-AdJ) yourself by eye in the UT50 service mode only.
Factory setting was crap, all too reddish/yellowish as the ALL-DRV =/and G-DRV was left on max FF setting, this cause the contrast "bloom" and possibly the green blob enhanced.

Set first the ALL DRV (=G-DRV) to lower stepdown e.g. ALL-DRV= EB, R-DRV/B-DRV automatically steps down the same amount.
Use a greyscale, RGB color chart etc. to fine tune the RGB DRV/CUT.

Keep break in with pixel jogger the first 100+ hrs. Use regulary to max out the tv performance.
Green blob, IR, buzz, linebleed, flickering, general PQ will mostly settle down after 1000+ hrs usage.

Hey folks,

About 4 months ago I bought my UT50. I did the 100 hours first use with static images on slide show and a couple of hours using pixel jogger. On the last month, there was an increase of use during day and night as my mom came to my flat to stay a couple of weeks, so she was using watching local tv. However, these stupid local tv channels have a logo on the right bottom of the images, so I got a little burn-in in there. I tried to use the pixel jogger, slide show on static images and even that thing when you select "TV" and there is no cable in there. It helped to reduce a bit, but didn't manage to remove it completely.

Any hints if there is a way to remove it? I'm afraid that Panasonic will not change this TV. Attaching an image, not sure if you guys will be able to see it.
Appreciate your help.

Cheers,
Filipe

A few hours this and that will not help much, be consistent keep running pixel jogger or white screen for 60+ to 75+ hours continously.
Check this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/949107/master-burn-in-ir-break-in-thread-part-ii-all-posts-here-only/3870

Anyone???

No, it's different for 2012.

Thanks iBrad..

In fact I tried about 10+ hrs, but will definitely try 60+ hours running pixel jogger. Will also do the white screen as well.
Looking forward to see a good result. Will post back here once I get this done and share the result with you.

Thanks man.

Cheers,
Filipe