Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 57

Yes, this morning I left it on for a couple of hours trying Viera Connect intermittently with no connection made. As a test, I tried running a cable directly from my router to the back of the tv and that solved the problem. Therefore, I just finished installing inwall wiring to accommodate the tv's location rather than try to figure out why the wireless adapter all of a sudden decided to cause issues.

My 50" UT50 finally arrived a few days ago at my local Walmart store after a delay with Site to Store. The increased contrast was immediately apparent and the deeper blacks are stunning. The screen uniformity on mine seems to be quite good. I do see very(and I mean very) faint horizontal and vertical lines on full gray screens but with normal content these are not seen at all. No dark shadow-like lines on the right or left side. The buzzing is no louder than my 2009 U1 which is great.


The only issue I have found is a dead red subpixel about two inches in from the bottom and right side. Should I return it? It isn't noticeable at all unless you are viewing a pure white or red screen and even then it is so far near the bezel that the eye doesn't really look there anyway. I would hate to get one with bad DSE or even more dead pixels.

What type of 3D glasses should I get to use with the UT50? Do you get better glasses if you spend more money?

Are these Samsung glasses OK?

Samsung SSG-4100GB

They are only $20 at BB.

Yes, the Samsung glasses will work. Just make sure they are model number 4100 as only they use RF like the Panasonic's.



I took a macro shot of the pixel issue on my UT50. It almost looks like debris, doesn't it? The dark spot is covering nearly the entire red subpixel plus a little of the green subpixel.

Those work fine and are low cost.
The higher priced models don't really give any better visual quality, just a nicer frame and rechargeable battery vs replaceable battery.

Thank you !!! Will buy 3D glasses soon.

Would these glasses also work: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/playstation-3-sony-playstation-3-3d-glasses-99021/10183192.aspx?lang=en-CA&pcname=&sku=10183192&path=24c9a52b4d42d9dd9ffab01e77292613en02 ?
The Samsung ones are $29 here in Canada.

EDIT: I don't think the Sony ones work because they don't use bluetooth
Edited by gihad - 1/5/13 at 7:25am

They're $18 something at Amazon. So probably cheaper if you get free shipping (and live in a state where Amazon doesn't charge sales tax).

Looks more dim then the previous plasma I had from like a decade ago. Settings will fix that, right?

I'll probably be watching some Blu-Ray
movies, playing some video games, and watching some Netflix. That should be ok for the first 100 hours until I can calibrate, right? I'll probably run the slides when I'm not using it.

EDIT:
Took it off Standard mode. Looks much better. Is it ok to Game mode with a new plasma? Or should I just use cinematic for the first 100 hours?

Use the cinema or custom mode with contrast down lower for the first 100 hours when actually using it (want contrast higher for the break in slides). The Game mode is pretty bright, so higher chance of IR if you use that early on.

When will game mode be okay to use? That is the main thing I do on the TV.

Ok, I'll switch between slides and Netflix for the first 100 hours, with some 3 hour sessions of Xbox with the contrast down on cinema mode.

If that sub-pixel or debris is the only uniformity issue you're having (especially if you can't see it from your viewing distance or it's in a region where your eyes aren't usually focused), keep the set. Playing panel lottery gets old fast and you'd hate to come home with a set with major buzzing, vertical banding, etc. I'd take a dead pixel over any other uniformity problem.
Yes, the Standard setting is rather drab. It's useless, in fact, as far as I'm concerned. Game Mode is fine to use on your new plasma, just go easy on the Contrast slider. If you want an accurate color gamut in Game Mode, make sure to change the HDMI Content setting to Photo. This will also raise your gamma to about 2.35 average, at least in the 10% to 60% range (gamma spikes at 70%+ IRE ranges). The Graphics setting also raises gamma to the same profile as Photo but it maintains the extended color gamut in Game Mode when HDMI Content is set to Off.

If I zoom in on the defect more, I can see a faint outline that goes into the blue sub pixel line to the left of the dark spot. Almost as if the debris is opaque but is creating a shadow as it gets closer to the actual panel. I made the thin white line around the shape to show what I am seeing. With the TV off I can see that something is off in that spot. There are the normal pixel rows but in that area it looks like there is an extra line in between(or covering) the pixels for about 2-3 subpixels long. Almost like a flattened bubble shape in the glass. Could this be a crack? I don't see any physical damage and the box was in excellent condition.

If you can tell something is wrong in that spot when the panel is off then I'm assuming it's either debris underneath the glass, physical damage to the glass (perhaps on the inside) or physical damage to the panel itself. Turn out the lights and try using a flashlight and point light at it from different angles and look at it from different angles. You might notice something new.

I just picked up the same set at a local BB with also a dead pixel 1/3 from the top right corner. Despite the crappy LCD color/image flatness that the 2 prior Samsung LED/LCD I exchanged prior to this set, at least they had perfect no dead pixel screens. IS this a normal thing for Panasonic QC? In other words, if I exchange this screen will I end with another one with a dead pixel? Very frustrating as my 6 year old 42" and 3 year old 65" Panny plasmas still have no dead pixels.
There's also some hum when flashing a 'white' screen.

Otherwise the PQ and motion smoothness are top notch. Blacks are much better than my much maligned 65" from 2009. I dunno why I even bothered with trying a LED backlit Samsung!
Edited by magbarn - 1/6/13 at 11:45am

Ive never had a dead pixel issue on any of my pannys samsung diffrent story exchange it you should be good with replacement

I took another photo of the area, this time with the TV off. The light source is from below and you can see that whatever is there(white arrow) is raised up enough to form a shadow above it. The other white dots are dust on the outside of the screen.

I've learned to live with my dot (that nobody knows what it is) and

The 55" version is on sale on amazon and best buy now for $849.99 I just called bestbuy and received my $50 back.

First movie on my new UT50. No calibration. Really good.

Just got my 55" at local Costco for 799 and the model is std UT50, not UT54.

I'm having a little trouble getting my camera dialed in, but you get the idea. Any lines or blotches are from the camera only and are not visible on the TV.


The blacks are very good. In a completely dark room, 4:3 content is displayed with hardly any sign of the borders. Obviously with a blank screen in the dark you can make out the glow of the set but who watches blank screens?

I got my 55" model today. I'm loving it so far. Blown away as expected by how much better the picture is than on my old Sony LCD RPTV. Just going with Pathof Neo's settings from post #72 for now. Will check it out later when I've done the break in period and get my Disney WoW disc that's on backorder.

Really impressed by the 3D as well--had to run out and buy a couple new HDMI cables though as my Sony BDP-S590 wasn't detecting the 3D set, though my DirecTV DVR was. A couple of the HDMI cables were a good bit older than the others and I guess not compatible with 3D. Avatar looked amazing in 3D the little I checked, as did Prometheus. ESPN 3D looked solid as well, looking forward to watching the game tonight in 3D. Figure that will help with the static image scoreboard as well rather than having it blazing in the 2D channel.

The set does buzz a tiny bit when running the bright slides, but nothing I've heard at all while watching TV etc. Much better than a 42" Vizio I bought and returned years back that had a VERY loud buzz that you could hear in bright scenes of shows/movies even with the volume at regular levels.

So overall, I'm a happy camper. Huge picture quality upgrade, and 5" upsize from my old set for $850.


Edit:

No hints of IR after watching the National Title game last night. Watched mostly in 3D, some in 2D, flipped channels at half time etc. No hints of IR anywhere on the screen when I put the break in slides back on before passing out.
Edited by dmaul1114 - 1/8/13 at 7:24am

I recently purchased the Panasonic P60UT50 and I am wanting to hook it up to the internet. I have my Uverse and DVD going to my A/V receiver and then out to the TV. I am wanting to connect the TV to the internet via the ethernet port on the back of the TV. Can I use an ethernet cable to connect from the back of the cable box directly to the TV which would bypass the A/V receiver? How does the sound from the internet get back to the A/V receiver? Do I need to move the input from the A/V receiver from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 which has the ARC?

Hi All,
I am ordering one of these

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10909&cs_id=1090901&p_id=9460&seq=1&format=2

It is bluetooth and samsung compatible so it should work with our sets, I will post back when I have results.

I'm looking forward to seeing what you think of them. I almost grabbed a pair but went with one pair each of the Panasonic and Samsung glasses to see which design I like best.

Okay, so over the course of the past month, I have read all 1700+ posts in this thread; therefore, I believe I am entitled to a little rant. I feel I absorbed most info presented here pretty well...as evident by my first post as a a plasma cherry. Couple points I want to make. First...I'll bet this D-Nice guy is sitting back laughing at all this! lol...he's probably saying, "Ha! I showed everybody these slides, and they are all wigging out because of it!" lol. The way he is portrayed here as a god like figure makes me laugh...especially since he is nowhere to be found. Second...I found most issues people are inquiring about just takes some hands on trial and error. For first time plasma owners, this thread is invaluble; however, I believe people should just read and learn, rather than post the same question over and over again. Third...and most important to me...is dealing with these slides, break in, and overall anal pixle monitoring. I first came on this thread to do research for a purchase. I made if based off what I learned here. I am happy as can be. I notice no buzzing, or banding; however, I have not ran the slides referenced here. I am now scared to. I don't notice anything during normal viewing. To me, this tv looks fantastic, and I can't stop raving about it to my friends and family..especially the 3d. with my panny glasses, i think it looks phenominal. When I watch 780 content, I am not expectin stellar pq...the oil painting effect doesnt bother me at all, and I don't even notice it with all yall pointing it out to me. ONE question I do have concerns blacks and dithering. How noticeable should it be or not be? I watched Dark Knight Rises, the blacks look good some scenes, and some scenes I see noticeble dithering at even 10ft viewing distance. Is this the source material? How does this movie look on everybody else's sets? what is a good movie to test my tv's black levels? The slides??? Im scared to do that now. I have had my tv since august, and it probably has 4-5 hundred hours on it...maybe. haven't checked as I'm scared to enter the sm....I have no experience whatsoever in that area.

Oh..and another point. My tv has a July 2012 build date. I (knock on wood) have not really noticed any of the issues you guys all have so poignantly pointed out..and I hope I don't get trained to over monitor these things....but you guys are starting to do that! lol. I have not really noticed anybody say they have a july 2012 build date...did I just get lucky? or am i overlooking these flaws because I am not running the slides?

Important question guys. I just had to return a 55ST50, which I loved the PQ on especially after break in. Unfortunately I'm having a hard time finding a replacement in my area. The 60UT50 is available and Im strongly considering pulling the trigger. However, I purchased the budget 60S30 last year and was disappointed. Painfully obvious false contouring and severe line bleed. I understand a little line bleed is to be expected. The ST50 had very minimal and didnt make itself obvious in every source. How is the Line bleed on the UT50 at 60 inches ? and how do streaming content and Blu ray sources perform ? This TV is going to be used for a little T.V and mostly movies, no gaming. At least not for a long time, I have previously learned that lesson......Reason ST50 had to go back was my neglect.

I also bought the tv with 2 year geek squad protection. I don't want to do anything to the tv via sm in case I might void that. I am happy for now, but I love to learn and fiddle with things. I think I may wait til that two years is up to start tinkering with it...so If I make a mistake, I'm not killing myself..and by that time I'm sure I'll have a new tv. does a pro cal make that much of a difference on this tv? I don't want to pay an arm and a leg to do it. I love learning and doing things myself, but I feel I should wait to "learn" on this tv since it may void my warranty. will just accessing the sm to see the hours on my tv void this? anybody know? I am curious because I did buy it in aug and I watch a lot of tv...want to know how many hours are on it. I am having trouble distiguishing between source/media flaws and tv flaws. Any recomendations as far as flawless media to test my dithering/blacks...so if I do have a defective set, I can exhange it while within my two years?