or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 58

post #1711 of 2596
i read the transfer processes used in the dark knight trilogy was horrific...especially the dark knight. something about the studio didn't use optical scanners when trasferring it over? avatar looked awesome...buy not many deep blacks in that movie.
post #1712 of 2596
Oh and I have accumulated a ton over the previous four months. almost all 3d releases, and a ton of regular bd. i had none in july lol. been addicted. tv looks great to me, except some of those black scenes in wich i see dithering. just not sure if it is the source. is there some scene from a movie or something else i can use that is known to be flaw free i can use?
post #1713 of 2596
Your right, some movies also are givin "film grain" on purpose as well. A lot of posts I have read suggest brightness should be set down around the 50 mark. Is this where yours is at ? Im concerned that if I pull the trigger on the 60 inch that these nuances will just be magnified.....
post #1714 of 2596
Lord of the rings movies if you have them in blu ray should be pretty clean. Especially two towers when they raid helms deep at night in the rain. Shouldnt be bad dithering in that scene. I have used it numerous times for sound tests and black levels.
post #1715 of 2596
Black dithering is definitely pronounced on the UT50; however, that's a trade-off I'm willing to make for the overall excellent PQ. To reduce the dithering, I reduce the brightness setting by one notch suggested by the AVS709 calibration disc. From what I remember, that's 50 or 51 in Cinema mode. I'll check when I get home.
post #1716 of 2596
Hi All - I am bringing back my vizio LED 60 inch this weekend and getting the Panasonic TC-P55UT50 from Costco for $799. Came from Plasma, tried LED, going back to Plasma. My old TV was a Panny TH-50PX60U (now in the bedroom). My questions is:

1. What size mounting screws does the TC-P55UT50 take? I cannot find info on that.

2. Do I need a wireless adapter for this or not?

3. Break in period - is it really 100-200 hours at very low levels? If so, what setting should the TV be at.

Thank you for the help..
post #1717 of 2596
Can't help on 1.

2. No built in wireless, so need the dongle or just plug in an Ethernet cable.

3. Opinions are mixed on the break in period. On mine I just went with some posted settings from PathofNeo early in this thread for my normal watching, and when not in use I'm running some break in slides (see the IR thread for details) on an SD card on the default custom settings--and will do that until I hit 100 hours of the slides.

That ages the panel so it's more stable to be calibrated. It doesn't make it more resistant to IR than just watching full screen content for the first 100 or so hours when plasmas are more prone to IR, but it does get me past those 100 hours faster than just watching a few hours a day of course.
post #1718 of 2596
1. Check the online user manual at Panasonic's website.

2. For wireless transmission, yes. You can also use a regular network cable (preferred method).

3. Break-in slides are primarily for those who wish to calibrate their displays with hardware. Also, they're usually done at high contrast to decrease aging times. Running plasmas at low contrast during the first few hundred hours is suggested for those who plan on gaming, or watching a lot of non-full screen content, or watching a lot of channels with static content. I think people get a little too paranoid in this regard, but to each their own.
post #1719 of 2596
Screw size is m8. And at least 0.67" and no longer than 1.46". That came right from the owners manual.
post #1720 of 2596
Thanks guys for this info. Yukon - how low should the setting be for break in? Thanks again
post #1721 of 2596
Contrast in the 70-80 range should be fine for regular watching the first 100 hours or so.
post #1722 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by emerito99 View Post

Thanks guys for this info. Yukon - how low should the setting be for break in? Thanks again
As suggested, 70-80 is probably good. Around 80 is where a lot of people settle for dim rooms anyways. I simply use the TV the way I want (85 contrast during the day in custom, 82 at night in cinema) and watch a variety of content, including games. I'm also using the break-in slides when I'm at work and at night (custom, contrast 100) in preparation for a hardware calibration. However, I'd still run the TV the same way absent the break-in slides.
post #1723 of 2596
Hey guys. I just got a TC-P55UT50 as a gift and I'm debating whether to keep it or go for a different model. I'm used to a TC-P58VT25 which I no longer have. Hoping maybe you guys can address a few questions for me?

Picture quality vs. VT25
Is there going to be a big downgrade in color accuracy and picture quality? I absolutely loved the VT25 in THX mode - some of the absolute best color accuracy I had ever seen. I'm worried if I open this thing up and start using it, I'm going to be disappointed.

3:2 pulldown/handling 24p
I'm also worried about going back to 3:2 pulldown after being used to 4:4 96Hz. From what I hear, the 2:2 48Hz mode is still useless to anyone sensitive to flicker (myself included, bothered by CRT monitors at anything below 85Hz back in the day).

Gaming
I previously used a CRT RPTV for all my gaming. 0ms input lag and I've gotten very, very, used to it. Has anyone tested/found out the exact lag in ms for this TV, and do they notice it compared to a CRT? I play shooters that will be refreshing at 60FPS and I play competitively, so it's a major issue for me. Are there particular settings to reduce input lag, does game mode make a difference?

720p content/image scaling
I've got devices that will be feeding 720p - are the rumors of recent Vieras scaling 720p content and resulting in a soft "oil-painting" like image true and is the UT50 affected? For devices like the Xbox 360 which render content at 720p but can use their own scaler to scale 720p to 1080p, am I better using that scaler or the TV scaler.

Break-in
To modern plasmas need to be properly broken in? Do I need to prepare a slideshow of the color images and loop it for 150 hours?
post #1724 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by AAcesUp View Post

Important question guys. I just had to return a 55ST50, which I loved the PQ on especially after break in. Unfortunately I'm having a hard time finding a replacement in my area. The 60UT50 is available and Im strongly considering pulling the trigger. However, I purchased the budget 60S30 last year and was disappointed. Painfully obvious false contouring and severe line bleed. I understand a little line bleed is to be expected. The ST50 had very minimal and didnt make itself obvious in every source. How is the Line bleed on the UT50 at 60 inches ? and how do streaming content and Blu ray sources perform ? This TV is going to be used for a little T.V and mostly movies, no gaming. At least not for a long time, I have previously learned that lesson......Reason ST50 had to go back was my neglect.

Line bleed on my 50UT50 is significant. It's not the type that only shows up in menus, disclaimer screens etc. - I've seen it an alarming number of times in TV and film, usually most visible on peoples faces. Any scene involving venetian blinds or colonial style windows is usually a disaster.
Edited by Oubadah - 1/9/13 at 6:43pm
post #1725 of 2596
Thank you so much for the response. Blinds !! yes blinds wreaked havoc on the S30 lol. I appreciate the response.
post #1726 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesoxpyro View Post

i read the transfer processes used in the dark knight trilogy was horrific...especially the dark knight. something about the studio didn't use optical scanners when trasferring it over? avatar looked awesome...buy not many deep blacks in that movie.

I watched the beginning and then clicked through chapters of "The Dark Knight Rises" and thought the dark scenes looked fine, but in the dark scenes like the dinner party at Wayne Manor, the lighting is extremely golden so it makes the black levels appear that way. The rooftop scene with Blake and Gordon looked good, too, as did the scene with Catwoman and Batman in the subway. I'm not extremely picky but I thought the colors looked right for the scene. I thought the shots wide, scenic shots of the city looked excellent and very crisp and detailed. My favorite movie for demo'ing new equipment and such is Star Wars. The opening shot of the Star Destroyer chasing the Corvette is my favorite. You should try some space/sci-fi films on blu and see how those look. Star Wars space scenes look amazing to me on my UT50. biggrin.gif
post #1727 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWells55 View Post

Picture quality vs. VT25
Is there going to be a big downgrade in color accuracy and picture quality? I absolutely loved the VT25 in THX mode - some of the absolute best color accuracy I had ever seen. I'm worried if I open this thing up and start using it, I'm going to be disappointed.
The UT50 has very good color gamut accuracy and color decoding. Also, the greyscale tracks close to 6500k in at least one of the presets (I've only measured Warm 1, which gets under 10 dE from 30%-100% IRE).

Most importantly, the black level and contrast of the UT trumps that of the VT25. Put side-by-side, I'd be shocked if anyone chose the VT25.
Quote:
3:2 pulldown/handling 24p
I'm also worried about going back to 3:2 pulldown after being used to 4:4 96Hz. From what I hear, the 2:2 48Hz mode is still useless to anyone sensitive to flicker (myself included, bothered by CRT monitors at anything below 85Hz back in the day).
Forget about 24p on the UT. Useless.
Quote:
Gaming
I previously used a CRT RPTV for all my gaming. 0ms input lag and I've gotten very, very, used to it. Has anyone tested/found out the exact lag in ms for this TV, and do they notice it compared to a CRT? I play shooters that will be refreshing at 60FPS and I play competitively, so it's a major issue for me. Are there particular settings to reduce input lag, does game mode make a difference??
Game Mode does make a difference, but it still won't compare to a CRT, especially if you're a competitive player. HDTVtest measured input lag around 40ms, but they're also using a new test method to measure input lag and the numbers seem to be higher across the board compared to the old monitor-stopwatch method. They also tested the UK model and those models seem to differ quite a bit from NA models.

There's a user here who uses the UT as a monitor and I think I saw a screenshot of him playing Unreal or Unreal Tournament. If that's the case, it can't be that bad.

I haven't noticed any increased input lag coming from my S1, which had under 20ms average input lag, but I've only played Red Dead Redemption so far.
Quote:
720p content/image scaling
I've got devices that will be feeding 720p - are the rumors of recent Vieras scaling 720p content and resulting in a soft "oil-painting" like image true and is the UT50 affected? For devices like the Xbox 360 which render content at 720p but can use their own scaler to scale 720p to 1080p, am I better using that scaler or the TV scaler.
Scaling isn't a strong suit of the 2012 Panasonics, although I'd say the issue is a bit exaggerated. A lot will depend on the viewing distance and the quality of the feed. Sitting 11' from my 60UT50, I can notice some softening compared to my S1 on moderately compressed feeds. High-quality feeds are much less affected. Also, the contrast and color performance completely outshines the scaling problems. I'd much rather watch the UT50 over the S1 on the vast majority of 720p feeds.

Always use the 360's internal scaler. It's a good scaler and guarantees the least input lag. And, yes, use an external scaler when you can to the UT50. My WD TV Live is set to output 1080p, for example. Having said that, there are scalers out there worse than what's in the UT50, so I'd compare individual devices' scaling to the UT50's whenever given the chance.
Quote:
Break-in
To modern plasmas need to be properly broken in? Do I need to prepare a slideshow of the color images and loop it for 150 hours?
This was addressed a page or two back.
Edited by Yukon Trooper - 1/10/13 at 12:24am
post #1728 of 2596
Wow, awesome reply, thank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Trooper View Post

The UT50 has very good color gamut accuracy and color decoding. Also, the greyscale tracks close to 6500k in at least one of the presets (I've only measured Warm 1, which gets under 10 dE from 30%-100% IRE).

Most importantly, the black level and contrast of the UT trumps that of the VT25. Put side-by-side, I'd be shocked if anyone chose the VT25.
Wow, I wasn't expecting to hear that. The VT25 blew me away in terms of color - best I'd seen since calibrated CRT RPTVs which I always loved. If this even comes close to the VT25, which it would seem it does, then I will be very happy indeed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Trooper View Post

Forget about 24p on the UT. Useless.
I figured as much. How's the 3:2 pulldown? Good enough that I'll survive despite being used to 4:4?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Trooper View Post

Game Mode does make a difference, but it still won't compare to a CRT, especially if you're a competitive player. HDTVtest measured input lag around 40ms, but they're also using a new test method to measure input lag and the numbers seem to be higher across the board compared to the old monitor-stopwatch method. They also tested the UK model and those models seem to differ quite a bit from NA models.

There's a user here who uses the UT as a monitor and I think I saw a screenshot of him playing Unreal or Unreal Tournament. If that's the case, it can't be that bad.
Sounds like I need to just unbox the sucker and start playing on it and see how it goes. Hopefully roughly two frames of input lag is livable. Where does this amount of lag fall compared to other TVs - is it notably better or worse with other plasmas or with LCDs?

Of course then I'm going to be complicating things with a receiver - I'd like to only have a single HDMI cable and a power cord coming out of the TV since I'm wall-mounting it (plus Panasonic only put two HDMI inputs on this model for some absurd reason). So I imagine that's a whole new world of input lag that I have to investigate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Trooper View Post

My WD TV Live is set to output 1080p, for example. Having said that, there are scalers out there worse than what's in the UT50, so I'd compare individual devices' scaling to the UT50's whenever given the chance.
External scalers it is. Also, I see you mention the WD Live - I got one three years back and wound up not really using it since it had trouble with a lot of the 1080p MKVs I threw at it and the picture quality seemed inferior than streaming the same files to my PS3. Maybe I'll try unboxing it and updating the firmware. My real question though is why you're using it at all? Doesn't this TV have all the features of the WD Live built in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukon Trooper View Post

This was addressed a page or two back.
I'll take a look through the last few pages.

Thanks again!
post #1729 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfran1 View Post

Hi All,
I am ordering one of these

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10909&cs_id=1090901&p_id=9460&seq=1&format=2

It is bluetooth and samsung compatible so it should work with our sets, I will post back when I have results.

I just got my 55" UT50 delivered yesterday. I ordered those Monoprice glasses for the heck of it. I don't know if it's just me, or if they don't work properly. The TV is definitely in 3D mode... I've tried my FiOS cable box and some HBO 3D content, as well as some Vudu 3D Demo content on Viera connect. The glasses are paired and definitely active (you can see the difference through them off vs. on), but I'm not seeing anything in 3D. I see what I can only describe as ghosting (that is, slight double-images). It's not exactly as it is if you watch 3D content without the glasses on at all, but it's not clear, nor does it look 3D at all with the glasses on and active. I'm pretty sure I should have no problem seeing 3D as I've been to a few 3D movies (obviously it's a different technology). Is it possible the glasses aren't syncing right? I was going to pick up a pair of the samsung 4100GBs this evening, just to see if it's the monoprice glasses which are the problem.

Edit:

It figures, they just announced 3d glasses for Panasonics at CES:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10909&cs_id=1090901&p_id=9461&seq=1&format=2

I thought this was supposed to be a multiple-manufacturer standard... what the heck are they doing different on the Samsung glasses which makes them incompatible with Panasonics?


NVM... IR... read too quickly.
Edited by Compulov - 1/10/13 at 3:04pm
post #1730 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I watched the beginning and then clicked through chapters of "The Dark Knight Rises" and thought the dark scenes looked fine, but in the dark scenes like the dinner party at Wayne Manor, the lighting is extremely golden so it makes the black levels appear that way. The rooftop scene with Blake and Gordon looked good, too, as did the scene with Catwoman and Batman in the subway. I'm not extremely picky but I thought the colors looked right for the scene. I thought the shots wide, scenic shots of the city looked excellent and very crisp and detailed. My favorite movie for demo'ing new equipment and such is Star Wars. The opening shot of the Star Destroyer chasing the Corvette is my favorite. You should try some space/sci-fi films on blu and see how those look. Star Wars space scenes look amazing to me on my UT50. biggrin.gif

I seem to have a habit of agreeing with anikun. The Dark Knight Rises was my first BR play on the UT50 which looked pretty accurate - absolutely enjoyable . After reading posts this board I was paying more attention than I might have otherwise.

I've worked with DV filming and editing enough to know there are a variety of factors so I won't pretend to present myself like an expert. Nolan does use film vs, dv which may create different scenarios in the encoding process or just look different to viewers used to something purely digital. Just a guess, either way I feel like the end result was near to what I saw in the theater.
post #1731 of 2596
I received a pair of Samsung SSG-4100GB glasses today and popped in IMAX Under the Sea 3D. I had tried on a pair of 3D glasses at Best Buy a few years ago when this newest technology was just starting to come out and while I could sort of see the effect, it wasn't enjoyable. I was looking forward to seeing if anything had improved and within the first few minutes of viewing the IMAX film my jaw was very close to hitting the floor! Sure it is a bit darker than normal 2D but in a dimly lit room like mine it still looks great on almost everything except a blue sky where you do notice it more.

Hardly any crosstalk was noticeable to me. Just pure, awesome 3D. The part where the sea snakes swim toward you is breath taking. And the jellyfish! Stunning. I also tried a little 2D-3D conversion using my Cars blu-ray and it wasn't too bad. Obviously not as much of the effect as a true 3D movie but in certain scenes it did really well(things like mountains and darker areas with brighter objects).


The SSG-4100GB's fit nicely over my prescription glasses and I could easily enjoy a movie without feeling like I had six eyes biggrin.gif Highly recommended and for $18 you can't go wrong.
post #1732 of 2596
Yeah, I have those Samsung glasses to and like them a lot, especially for the price.

Only cross talk I've noticed was on things far forward in the field of vision during the national championship game the other night--pompoms in the front of crowd shots etc.). But I haven't watched much 3D yet.
post #1733 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

You're right LCD has come along way but LCD's have there own set of problems, it all boils down to what you are willing to accept. If you are seeing dithering from that distance something is up with either your setting or the panel is defective. Do you have 200 hours on your set yet, Plasma's improve quite a bit in the first couple hundred hours. As far as what you can see up close how is that relevant ? At any rate Plasma isn't for everyone, you seem to be someone that would be much happier with a lower end lcd, nothing wrong with that. To get the equivalent black level in an LCD you will have to go high end and pay at least triple what you paid for your UT50.

Chunon,

Sorry, I've been away from this thread for a bit. I'm not quite sure what you are trying to imply by saying that I'd be happy with a lower end LCD...Certainly if I'm pointing out PQ flaws with what the fanboys are touting as the PQ deal of 2012, we both know that's not true at all. Will I be willing to SETTLE for a cheaper LCD TV to avoid Buzz, Dithering, IR (more on this in a second) and absurd power consumption? Maybe. I've got what I would consider a pretty advanced home theater setup with integrated z-wave controlled lighting scenes, RF remote control, media server, color spectrometer calibration tools etc. etc that I've all done myself on a very low budget through lots of research). I'm a bit put off by your comment...

So, as I've alluded to already, I'm on my second 55UT50. While the vertical striping is barely less noticeable on the second set, the IR issues are horrendous on this set and basically as bad as my 2009 5 series Samsung Plasma. I kid you not, the SmarTVierra logo that displays on startup for a brief moment stays visable on a solid color screen for at least a minute or two (maybe longer, I've never timed it). Load the Pandora app and I can see the big "Pandora" title from the first screen on the music screen VERY CLEARLY. Worse yet, I played Pandora for a couple of hours last weekend, which has a screensaver, but the music progress bar is now visible over a week later on solid color backgrounds (or break-in slides). Yes, I can see it even in normal content!

What's worse is that I have 3TB of content on my HTPC. If I load my movie interface even briefly to select a movie, when I start the movie, I can see silhouettes of the movie box outlines for a few minutes into the movie. Same for the Netflix and Amazon apps. Tell me how that is acceptable picture quality? It's totally distracting!

I've always broken in my Plasma displays with slides and I do have at LEAST 200 hours on this second set and IR is getting worse and worse. I may be simply unlucky with a bum UT50 but after 2, I'm starting to doubt it. The first display didn't seem to have IR quite as bad but this is terrible. And no, I'm not using Contrast 100....I've got it at 86 right now.

So, will I be happy with LCD? I don't think I will be but I'll sleep better at night knowing that I won't see previous high contrast scenes in the next scene of the movie. I'd be buying an IPS panel LCD anyway which should have good color accuracy but worse black levels sadly...We'll see what I do.
post #1734 of 2596
That's clearly a defective panel if the IR is really that bad.

I've not noticed any IR on mine I got on Monday after watching ESPN for a couple hours etc. and then running slides when done.

The buzz I'll grant you. My room is pretty small (I'm about 7-7.5' from the screen) and I can thus hear it in quiet bright scenes. But I can live with it for the PQ that I love on it, and I don't plan on being in such a small condo all that much longer.
post #1735 of 2596
I am using the hdmi(arc) input between my Yamaha yep-2200 and my tv. When I watch netflix through viera connect, it does not play 5.1 surround. I've noticed this when playing netflix through my ps3 and also my Apple TV. I thought netflix was 5.1 capable. Am I missing a setting on my tv and other sources?
post #1736 of 2596
Pretty sure the TV apps can only send 2.0 sound to the receiver via the optical out or the HDMI return.

But yes, you should get Netflix in Dolby Digital 5.1 from other things like the PS3 and Apple TV (I've used it and Amazon on my PS3, Xbox 360 and Sony S-590 and gotten DD 5.1 from a 3 devices--all hooked up to a Denon 1312 via HDMI, also worked on the two consoles via optical too the before I got the new receiver and Bluray player).

So it's probably some receiver setting for the PS3 and Apple TV I'd guess, assuming their audio settings are right.. I'm not knowledgeable enough of different receiver brands/settings to to help you out though. Hopefully someone else can.
post #1737 of 2596
Has anyone used a slim wall mount with the 50UT50? I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to get mine one the wall. I would like to get it as close to the wall as possible. I also want to be able to tilt it a little. Unfortunately it seems like this TV wasn't setup to make that easy, with the connections coming straight out the back (what a stupid idea, even my 6yr old Sceptre had them coming out the bottom) and the bumps at the bottom on ether side.

My main concern is if I get a slim wall mount that tilts, when I go to tilt it down the bumps or connections will prevent the TV from tilting at all. I am going to be getting right angle connectors to help with that issue. Though another annoyance is Panasonic stacked the hdmi ports on top of each other, so that prevents being able to use to right angle connectors. So one of the hdmi cables are going to have to be a port saver

Any advice?
post #1738 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemark81 View Post

I am using the hdmi(arc) input between my Yamaha yep-2200 and my tv. When I watch netflix through viera connect, it does not play 5.1 surround. I've noticed this when playing netflix through my ps3 and also my Apple TV. I thought netflix was 5.1 capable. Am I missing a setting on my tv and other sources?

My bad.......I am getting surround. I just wasn't picking shows that are 5.1 capable.
post #1739 of 2596
I would reeeeally like to pick this tv up, but after hearing it doesn't support 4:4:4 chroma subsampling, I'm hesitant. Anyone with experience using this tv as a pc monitor? I saw someone earlier in the thread saying they tried it, and it's fine, but I'd appreciate more opinions. I play a lot of rpg's and rts's, so things like the chat text in WoW or item names on the ground in Diablo 3 need to be legible. Anyone willing to give it a go from that distance to see if it still looks nice?
post #1740 of 2596
Well it looks like the UT50 only outputs PCM/Dolby Digital over optical. It doesn't not output 5.1 dts, according to the manual and so far what I have tested shows that also. I have my media center and ps3 hooked into the hdmi ports and my audio hooked into to optical output of the TV. So if I want dts or anything better then 2.0, I'll have to connect it direct. That is probably fine for most but I only have 1 input on my audio for optical and I wanted less inputs to have to change which switching between sources. Why doesn't the UT50 just pass the audio to the optical port untouched?? Or am I missing something?
Edited by bnevets27 - 1/11/13 at 3:56pm
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread