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Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 65

post #1921 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Regardless of what tech support says, the UT50 does send a signal to the Samsung 4100 3D glasses and they recceive it. I own a pair as do many others and they work fine.

I also checked out another thread about the glasses and that thread sez the Samsung400 3D glasses work..

How do They come? With case? How are they charged? Any tips on sync? Since I am new to 3D I know very little. Does the genuine Panny glasses have any advantages over the 4100 (even if they work)?
post #1922 of 2462
The Samsung 4100 GB use CR2025 batteries--they aren't rechargeable. They come with one battery and a small microfiber cloth. You can get 5 packs of the batteries on Amazon for around $3. No case, and the glasses don't fold (the arms pop off if you wanted to make them smaller for storage).

The Panny's fold and are rechargeable. Also do a better job of blocking light from the sides. For me, not enough to be worth the price difference. And I prefer regular batteries as if they're dead when I want to watch something I can just pop in a new battery, where as the rechargeable ones you have to wait until the recharge.
Edited by dmaul1114 - 1/27/13 at 9:01am
post #1923 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaul1114 View Post

The Samsung 4100 GB use CR2025 batteries--they aren't rechargeable. They come with one battery and a small microfiber cloth. You can get 5 packs of the batteries on Amazon for around $3. No case, and the glasses don't fold (the arms pop off if you wanted to make them smaller for storage.

The Panny's fold and are rechargeable. Also do a better job of blocking light from the sides. For me, not enough to be worth the price difference. And I prefer regular batteries as if they're dead when I want to watch something I can just pop in a new battery, where as the rechargeable ones you have to wait until the recharge.


Thanks, Maybe I will buy a pair of each.

Another question, Since the Panny offers simulated 3D, IS that mode any good for Football?
post #1924 of 2462
I don't think the 2D-->3D mode is really worthwhile personally. Others like it ok though.

ESPN3D has some football, but not much (college national title game was in 3D and looked good).
post #1925 of 2462
I didn't think the 2D>3D conversion would be any good but it actually works well for certain content that has depth. I recently watched a nature film about mountainous regions and it looked stunning!
post #1926 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealjustin View Post

I didn't think the 2D>3D conversion would be any good but it actually works well for certain content that has depth. I recently watched a nature film about mountainous regions and it looked stunning!

It's pretty neat looking at pictures too. It works better on some than others.
post #1927 of 2462
Hi, I, new to the forums. I just got my tv last weekend from Costco. Great tv. Thing is, I was wondering if anyone knew if there were any settings for the digital audio out? I'm connecting the optical cable to an old Sony AVR and it only inputs PCM 48. So no blue light or 5.1 audio. I have my Xbox 360 and AT&T Uverse STB connected via HDMI and the digital optical out connected to my AVR. On my older Sony LCD the optical out would decode out to the receiver and it would play though the AVR in Dolby Digital 5.1.
Edited by babyxbuffalo - 1/27/13 at 8:32pm
post #1928 of 2462
Hi guys. Can anyone help me with ut50 and 4k capability? I'm not sure I understand the concept and whether it's worth it to get the Sony BDP S790 for the upscaler or not.


Thanks!
post #1929 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpsmith01 View Post

Hi guys. Can anyone help me with ut50 and 4k capability? I'm not sure I understand the concept and whether it's worth it to get the Sony BDP S790 for the upscaler or not.


Thanks!

Zero benefit considering the UT50 is a 1080p set and thus wouldn't benefit from 4K input and it probably wouldn't even handle anything over 1920x1080p@60hz.

the s790 upscaling to "4K" is just marketing considering blu-ray is limited to 1920x1080. and so are cable, satellite and OTA.

once 4K sets launch in mass maybe having the s790 might offer some future-proofing but if blu-ray gets a 4K update surely there will be new 4K players too and those would probably upscale just fine in the future.

If anything the s790 offers improved upscaling for it's streaming content as it's most tangible benefit and the supposed 4K features aren't really a factor with current TV's.
post #1930 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyxbuffalo View Post

Hi, I, new to the forums. I just got my tv last weekend from Costco. Great tv. Thing is, I was wondering if anyone knew if there were any settings for the digital audio out? I'm connecting the optical cable to an old Sony AVR and it only inputs PCM 48. So no blue light or 5.1 audio. I have my Xbox 360 and AT&T Uverse STB connected via HDMI and the digital optical out connected to my AVR. On my older Sony LCD the optical out would decode out to the receiver and it would play though the AVR in Dolby Digital 5.1.

odds are you"ll have to use a receiver with HDMI . I'm not sure but most TVs that have ARC don't decode/transcode from HDMI over to the optical output because it needs an extra license versus HDMI just passing the data over ARC so you need a receiver with ARC if the sources are plugged into the display or just have the sources direct to the receiver with HDMI.

the optical out is more so you have dolby digital when you watch OTA from the built in ATSC tuner. sadly it seems the older TV's handled audio routing better since AVR's didn't have HDMI as commonly and kinda had to be capable of processing the HDMI inputs.

I could be wrong , but looking at the manual I don't see a setting to change that would get you Dolby Digital, only reference to NTSC from the optical being PCM and that it can do PCM 48,44.1 and 32khz

a good excuse to get a AVR that can handle the newer lossless audio formats and HDMI

It is a possibly a reason the UT50 is a lower cost option or a really really well hidden setting frown.gif
post #1931 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWells55 View Post

Could someone perhaps help me understand HDMI Audio Return Channel (ARC)? I'm a bit fuzzy on how it works, particularly with this TV. I'll be connected to a Harman Kardon AVR 1700 receiver.
  • Does only the second HDMI port that says (ARC) support this feature?
  • I understand that this feature allows me to return the sound from the apps and TV tuner to my receiver. Will it also return the audio from a component or composite video source with RCA audio plugged into the TV, or will I need an optical cable for that?
  • Will the TV speakers automatically turn off when ARC is active, or do I need to disable the TV speakers?
  • I have to select ARC as an input on my receiver, right?

Anyone? Tried researching this on my own and wound up just getting more confused, heh.
post #1932 of 2462
Well I got my Panansonic TC-L55ET5 LED set today and sent the UT50 back--was a painless return process.

Someone asked for my impressions of the two when I got the new one so hear goes.

In short, I love the LED set. Yes, the blacks aren't as good and motion isn't handled as smoothly. But both are vastly better than on the Sony LCD RPTV I was upgrading from so I can't complain. Bright and colorful scenes I prefer on this new set. Being brighter such scenes really pop. Dark scenes were definitely better on the plasma--but are still very good on this LED set. And I watch more sports and play more games that I watch movies really, so that's a good trade off for me.

3D is one area I'm really impressed/surprised as being passive rather than active I expected it to not be as good as on the UT50. But it's actually better IMO. The 3D on the UT50 tended to have some blurring/double imaging on pop out type stuff--much clearer on this set. And I much prefer having passive glasses and not having to mess with batteries etc. Even better since 4 pairs were included with this tv, where as I had to shell out $38 for the Samsung 4100GBs for the UT50 (already returned them to Amazon).

Best of all, TV is completely silent. No buzz on white screens at all, where as my buzzing UT50 was driving me nuts. I love not having to worry at all about IR and being able to game as long as I want or leave the set on ESPN all day etc.

Only minor nit pick is the screen is still a tad reflective--though not nearly as bad as the UT50 that was near unwatchable with the blinds open during the day or more than one lamp at night.

So overall, I'm super happy. LED is just a better fit for my uses due to not having to worry about IR and no buzzing (which I'm very sensitive too apparently as I've returned two plasmas for buzzing).
post #1933 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaul1114 View Post

Well I got my Panansonic TC-L55ET5 LED set today and sent the UT50 back--was a painless return process.

Someone asked for my impressions of the two when I got the new one so hear goes.

In short, I love the LED set. Yes, the blacks aren't as good and motion isn't handled as smoothly. But both are vastly better than on the Sony LCD RPTV I was upgrading from so I can't complain. Bright and colorful scenes I prefer on this new set. Being brighter such scenes really pop. Dark scenes were definitely better on the plasma--but are still very good on this LED set. And I watch more sports and play more games that I watch movies really, so that's a good trade off for me.

3D is one area I'm really impressed/surprised as being passive rather than active I expected it to not be as good as on the UT50. But it's actually better IMO. The 3D on the UT50 tended to have some blurring/double imaging on pop out type stuff--much clearer on this set. And I much prefer having passive glasses and not having to mess with batteries etc. Even better since 4 pairs were included with this tv, where as I had to shell out $38 for the Samsung 4100GBs for the UT50 (already returned them to Amazon).

Best of all, TV is completely silent. No buzz on white screens at all, where as my buzzing UT50 was driving me nuts. I love not having to worry at all about IR and being able to game as long as I want or leave the set on ESPN all day etc.

Only minor nit pick is the screen is still a tad reflective--though not nearly as bad as the UT50 that was near unwatchable with the blinds open during the day or more than one lamp at night.

So overall, I'm super happy. LED is just a better fit for my uses due to not having to worry about IR and no buzzing (which I'm very sensitive too apparently as I've returned two plasmas for buzzing).

Glad it worked out for you, If you are gaming alot Plasma is a tough fit. IR varies from set to set it seems but ESPN is not a problem on most plasmas. If you buy a set without an IR filter any kind of light is going to be an issue.
Edited by chunon - 1/28/13 at 12:11pm
post #1934 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Glad it worked out for you, your bad plasma experience is not typical. I watch ESPN days on end and not one hint of IR and no buzzing ever. Gaming different story why folks think plasma is a good match for that is beyond me. Its well documented the UT50 is poor in a bright room environment so no suprise there.

Yep. I wouldn't knock plasma at all. Just not for me. I've tried it twice now (tried a Vizio 6 or 7 years back) and was annoyed by buzz and IR on it.

I think I just have a combo of bad luck with getting ones that buzz louder than the minimal level and being particularly sensitive to buzzing (I heard it at times my girlfriend did not--but she could hear it on bright scenes with sound muted and commented on how loud the white slide was when running the break in slides).

The IR was manageable as anything from ESPN or CNN usually went away pretty quickly. Game IR was worse--I was just willing to take a chance on that to get the better blacks etc. for movies as I'm more into movies than games these days.

Bright room I was aware of. I have a good blind so I was willing to just keep that shut during the day (though I hate losing my 21st story view!) if I was happy with all other aspects of the UT50. That just didn't work out. The ET5 is much better with the blinds open--but it's still glossy so reflections are a bit annoying if watching something darker. But the picture doesn't get washed out like on the UT50 so still much better as expected.

Again, nothing against plasmas. And the UT50 gives a great picture for the price especially. Plasmas just aren't my bag as I'm apparently very sensitive to the buzz and drive myself nuts worrying about IR since I do a decent amount of gaming and ESPN/CNN etc. watching. So not posting my experience as any type of knock on plasmas or the UT50. Just putting it out there for others researching TVs--may save someone with similar uses/pet peeves and sensitivity to buzzing to go LED from the start.
Edited by dmaul1114 - 1/28/13 at 12:35pm
post #1935 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaul1114 View Post

Yep. I wouldn't knock plasma at all. Just not for me. I've tried it twice now (tried a Vizio 6 or 7 years back) and was annoyed by buzz and IR on it.

I think I just have a combo of bad luck with getting ones that buzz louder than the minimal level and being particularly sensitive to buzzing (I heard it at times my girlfriend did not--but she could hear it on bright scenes with sound muted and commented on how loud the white slide was when running the break in slides).

The IR was manageable as anything from ESPN or CNN usually went away pretty quickly. Game IR was worse--I was just willing to take a chance on that to get the better blacks etc. for movies as I'm more into movies than games these days.

Bright room I was aware of. I have a good blind so I was willing to just keep that shut during the day (though I hate losing my 21st story view!) if I was happy with all other aspects of the UT50. That just didn't work out. The ET5 is much better with the blinds open--but it's still glossy so reflections are a bit annoying fi watching something darker. But the picture doesn't get washed out like on the UT50 so still much better as expected.

Again, nothing against plasmas. And the UT50 gives a great picture for the price especially. Plasmas just aren't my bag as I'm apparently very sensitive to the buzz and drive myself nuts worry about IR since I do a decent amount of gaming and ESPN/CNN etc. watching. So not posting my experience as any type of knock on plasmas or the UT50. Just putting it out there for others researching TVs--may save someone with similar uses/pet peeves and sensitivity to buzzing to go LED from the start.

I didnt take it that way at least you stayed in the Panasonic family smile.gif Good luck enjoy your set !
post #1936 of 2462
Thanks!
post #1937 of 2462
I need a little help.......I want to mount my new UT50 on the wall so I will need to purchase a wall mount. Since I know nothing, I am trying not to make a mistake. I will be watching in bed so I have to calculate how high to mount the tv and since I see the mounts have a max of 15 degrees down angle I intend to measure the room and will use a Cadd program to find the center point. But I am a bit confused aboutt the mount. The Panasonic book says that the Vesa hole pattern is 400 X 300. When looking on the net I see people who have made mistakes and there are cheap to expensive mounts available. I know that my wall studs are on 16" centers so the mount arms must fit the 400 X 300 hole pattern and ge mountable up to 9" off center on either side of the wall bracket in order to center the TV so it is not obstructed by tthe bed post from either side of the king size bed. I would also prefer that the tilt angle be adjustable rather than fied.

When I google the 400 X 300 Things like Peerless adapters pop up. I asked a salesman (mistake) and he said a 400 X 400 would work. When I asked "Then why are there 400 X 300 adapters being sold he could not answer. Weight is pretty easy to understand but the ability to shift the TV right or left without a long ugly wall bracket sticking out on one side or the other is important.

I hope those who have installed their own mounts share their experience and recommendations
post #1938 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by generallee View Post

I need a little help.......I want to mount my new UT50 on the wall so I will need to purchase a wall mount. Since I know nothing, I am trying not to make a mistake. I will be watching in bed so I have to calculate how high to mount the tv and since I see the mounts have a max of 15 degrees down angle I intend to measure the room and will use a Cadd program to find the center point. But I am a bit confused aboutt the mount. The Panasonic book says that the Vesa hole pattern is 400 X 300. When looking on the net I see people who have made mistakes and there are cheap to expensive mounts available. I know that my wall studs are on 16" centers so the mount arms must fit the 400 X 300 hole pattern and ge mountable up to 9" off center on either side of the wall bracket in order to center the TV so it is not obstructed by tthe bed post from either side of the king size bed. I would also prefer that the tilt angle be adjustable rather than fied.

When I google the 400 X 300 Things like Peerless adapters pop up. I asked a salesman (mistake) and he said a 400 X 400 would work. When I asked "Then why are there 400 X 300 adapters being sold he could not answer. Weight is pretty easy to understand but the ability to shift the TV right or left without a long ugly wall bracket sticking out on one side or the other is important.

I hope those who have installed their own mounts share their experience and recommendations

What size UT50 did you get?

Monoprice have the best/cheapest wall mounts. I've bought many without any issues. Buying one from Target/BB and you're just overpaying. When you look at a mount, it will tell you the min/max VESA mount and as long as the 400x300 fit in those figures, you're good.

When mounting, try to have 4 carriage bolts hit the studs and you'll be good to go.

I was a little intimidated on my first one, now all my friends call me up to help them with their wall mounts....takes less than 10 minutes.
post #1939 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by undermined View Post

odds are you"ll have to use a receiver with HDMI . I'm not sure but most TVs that have ARC don't decode/transcode from HDMI over to the optical output because it needs an extra license versus HDMI just passing the data over ARC so you need a receiver with ARC if the sources are plugged into the display or just have the sources direct to the receiver with HDMI.

the optical out is more so you have dolby digital when you watch OTA from the built in ATSC tuner. sadly it seems the older TV's handled audio routing better since AVR's didn't have HDMI as commonly and kinda had to be capable of processing the HDMI inputs.

I could be wrong , but looking at the manual I don't see a setting to change that would get you Dolby Digital, only reference to NTSC from the optical being PCM and that it can do PCM 48,44.1 and 32khz

a good excuse to get a AVR that can handle the newer lossless audio formats and HDMI

It is a possibly a reason the UT50 is a lower cost option or a really really well hidden setting frown.gif

Yup, that's all it will output. I thought I was going nuts when I first hooked mine up. Seeing as my dads older samsung plasma output dts I thought they all would. Looks like only older set do it. Kind of a unpleasant surprise. I don't have an AVR and my speakers only take one optical in so now I have to use a manual switch. It is a good excuse to get AVR but that's not happening anytime soon.
post #1940 of 2462
I bought 42UT50 2 days ago and decided to run break-in images as slideshow. While running first three images (first 5 slides go from white to black) I noticed that whole column next to right edge of screen is yellow (1080 pixels). Whille running green slides everything is OK but while running red slides ( if I remeber correctly) whole column is dead (it is black instead of being red like the rest of the image). Also i noticed that while watching SD signal yellow line appears when scene is bright. What should I do

Thank you in advance
post #1941 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by highdefav1 View Post

What size UT50 did you get?

Monoprice have the best/cheapest wall mounts. I've bought many without any issues. Buying one from Target/BB and you're just overpaying. When you look at a mount, it will tell you the min/max VESA mount and as long as the 400x300 fit in those figures, you're good.

When mounting, try to have 4 carriage bolts hit the studs and you'll be good to go.

I was a little intimidated on my first one, now all my friends call me up to help them with their wall mounts....takes less than 10 minutes.
I got a 50UT50 and have it on the stand. Am waiting for the Network cable to come from Monoprice (Thursday) and the glasses (I overpaid) net week. Also I am researching the cable mounts that hide the cables. I have a problem though. I know my house has fire stops which are 4 ft off the floor. The 120V outlets are in the lower partition and the electrical conduits were installed during construction. I was able to fish the D" cables down alongside a pipe and left 75' of 50# fish line back through the attic to pull the net cable through but getting all of the cables and the power back up the wall through the fire block is a roblem. I may end up having to cut the dry wall to get to the fire block to cut a channel. I have seen video of a drill bit on a flexable stick but have no idea who sells these or what size would be needed to put in something like the Monoprice Power thru wall 4652 $47.18> Any suggestions?
The studs are easy to find with my stud finder. I assume you use 3/8 lag screws rather than carrage bolts. What length?
post #1942 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by highdefav1 View Post

What size UT50 did you get?

Monoprice have the best/cheapest wall mounts. I've bought many without any issues. Buying one from Target/BB and you're just overpaying. When you look at a mount, it will tell you the min/max VESA mount and as long as the 400x300 fit in those figures, you're good.

When mounting, try to have 4 carriage bolts hit the studs and you'll be good to go.

I was a little intimidated on my first one, now all my friends call me up to help them with their wall mounts....takes less than 10 minutes.

I haven't looked at Monoprice, but the PartsExpress catalog I received a couple weeks ago had them for $25 for whichever size. Are they pretty much all the same in terms of build strength?
post #1943 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by generallee View Post

I got a 50UT50 and have it on the stand. Am waiting for the Network cable to come from Monoprice (Thursday) and the glasses (I overpaid) net week. Also I am researching the cable mounts that hide the cables. I have a problem though. I know my house has fire stops which are 4 ft off the floor. The 120V outlets are in the lower partition and the electrical conduits were installed during construction. I was able to fish the D" cables down alongside a pipe and left 75' of 50# fish line back through the attic to pull the net cable through but getting all of the cables and the power back up the wall through the fire block is a roblem. I may end up having to cut the dry wall to get to the fire block to cut a channel. I have seen video of a drill bit on a flexable stick but have no idea who sells these or what size would be needed to put in something like the Monoprice Power thru wall 4652 $47.18> Any suggestions?
The studs are easy to find with my stud finder. I assume you use 3/8 lag screws rather than carrage bolts. What length?

Hmmm, never had to deal with fireblock before, it might be best to open up the dry wall a little bit to get take care of that obstacle.

Here is the mount I used for my 55 inch....solid and secure. When I put it up, I would have been comfortable to put a 65 inch on it. All the hardware you need will be included with the mount. I think mine came with 6 lag bolts and I only used 4 because all 4 went into the studs.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=3900&seq=1&format=2

I used these up behind the TV and down below to route my HDMI and another cables that I might need. Depending on your cable needs though, you might want to get larger ones.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042510&p_id=4001&seq=1&format=2
post #1944 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I haven't looked at Monoprice, but the PartsExpress catalog I received a couple weeks ago had them for $25 for whichever size. Are they pretty much all the same in terms of build strength?

I would think so, stamped steel is stamped steel. They all come from China anyways. Haven't used any of the PE mounts, but I have to imagine they are similar to Monoprices.
post #1945 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by highdefav1 View Post

Hmmm, never had to deal with fireblock before, it might be best to open up the dry wall a little bit to get take care of that obstacle.

Here is the mount I used for my 55 inch....solid and secure. When I put it up, I would have been comfortable to put a 65 inch on it. All the hardware you need will be included with the mount. I think mine came with 6 lag bolts and I only used 4 because all 4 went into the studs.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=3900&seq=1&format=2

I used these up behind the TV and down below to route my HDMI and another cables that I might need. Depending on your cable needs though, you might want to get larger ones.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042510&p_id=4001&seq=1&format=2

Basicly I was looking at thee following:



3900 Adjustable Tilting Wall Mount Bracket for LCD LED Plasma (Max 165Lbs, 30~63inch) - BLACK $20.96


3997 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Wall Plate - White $2.00


4004 3-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Wall Plate - White $5.08


4652 Recessed Pro Power Kit w/Straight Blade Inlet White $47.18


4859 HDMI® Right Angle Port Saver Adapter (Male to Female) - 90 Degree - Vertical Flat Left $2.02


7013 1-Gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket $0.93


7015 3-Gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket $3.68


If I have to cut the dry wall to cut a channel through the fire stop then I can patch the wall but since the cut will be below the TV I will have to paint......which means painting the whole room.....cutting in baseboards, door frames, removing and installing the curtains.....UGH you get it. THAT is why I am trying to find the drill on a fle pole


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQG5xkojOiU

These may be available at Lowes. If I go that route, I could just go to the wall box and pull romex up behind the tv for power and then use the low voltage plates to pull the cables up from the network, Blue Ray and D* boes
post #1946 of 2462
My current set up has my 50" on my TV stand and my center channel speaker "sits" on top of my TV, would it seem or sound odd to have high corner mains and a chest level (when sitting) center channel? I've considered wall mounting, but I like having my TV just that little bit closer. biggrin.gif
post #1947 of 2462
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

My current set up has my 50" on my TV stand and my center channel speaker "sits" on top of my TV, would it seem or sound odd to have high corner mains and a chest level (when sitting) center channel? I've considered wall mounting, but I like having my TV just that little bit closer. biggrin.gif
I did what you suggest with my family room TV. I have a Denon AVR so I mounted the L/R speakers in the corners of the room then the center channel directly over the TV. I used the corners in the rear for the rear mount speakers and omitted the side speakers due to room size. (even though the Denon will do 7-2, I use 5-1). Then I put the Audssey mic on a camera stand and moved it around the room as directed to let Audssey do it's magic. I am very happy with the results. As a final touch, I supplied (given to me by Batpig of Batpig World who is a Denon terrorist) the Audssey discrete codes to Logitec had them program them into my Harmony remote so I have one button switching.

The important thing about your center channel is to having it pointing in the right direction and be separately adjustable as to volume in relation to the other speakers. This feature is not available on all AVR's and even Logi does not provide anything other than what the factory remote comes equipted to do. That is why it is important to be able to program sequential steps through pronto codes into the remote.

Many of the Harmony remotes on the market WILL NOT accept sequential pronto codes.

Good luck
post #1948 of 2462
How's this TV in daylight, like watching a 1 pm NFL game? I'm ok with not watching dark Batman movies at 1 pm, but if NFL games look like crap, that would be a showstopper.

I was all set on the 55ST50, but now that it's like $400 more, the UT50 seems like a steal.
post #1949 of 2462
It depends on the amount of light you have in your room. If you have all the lights on and windows opened on a sunny day, then you may see some glaring. A simple solution is to use curtains or blinds.

I prefer watching games on my UT50 over friends' LED TV's. The motion and color is way more realistic with the UT50 I find. And unless I have my blinds opened completely, all my lights on, and have a black screen come up, I won't have any glaring issues.
post #1950 of 2462
If you can control lighting (i.e. have good curtains and blinds) it's fine. If not, then I wouldn't get the UT50. Go for the ST50 or above that have the louvre filters to help block light.

The UT50 looks very bad with sunlight or a bright lamp on between the reflections and the picture looking washed out. I was able to shut my roll down blinds and have it look fine. But personally prefer the LED I exchanged it for (due to buzzing and IR, not the glare issue) as I like leaving the blinds open as I don't like sitting around in the dark and I have a nice view. But that's very much a to each their own thing. I'm not a videophile at all so I'm not hung up on black levels, motion blur, color accuracy etc. so I'm fine losing some of that for no buzz and being able to game for hours with no worries of IR and being able to enjoy my 21st story view.

If you're a big a/v quality guy, then stick with plasma and get some good curtains/blinds and enjoy the UT50, or pay a few hundred more and grab an ST50 with the filter.
Edited by dmaul1114 - 1/29/13 at 7:40am
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