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Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 8

post #211 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgeek543 View Post

Well I'm 15 min into underworld 3d @48hz flicker free and have zero crosstalk,none at all. At 60 i get faint crosstalk. I have no other 3d blurays to test right now,as all my ps3 media server content can't be changed unless someone on here knows a way. So far it looks like if you watch your 3d blu rays in true cinematic 3d 24fps 48hz the TV is good at 3d. Will continue testing and watch the rest of the movie and maybe go buy another movie later to test unless someone knows how to get the ps3 media server to stream 24fps.Maybe I'll go screw with the media server and figure something out.

Watched the entire move set to 48hz and no flicker and it did appear to be somewhat smoother when I changed over to 60hz and replayed some of the same scenes to compare. What is everyone using for the 3d adjustment setting?
post #212 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantiz View Post


Watched the entire move set to 48hz and no flicker and it did appear to be somewhat smoother when I changed over to 60hz and replayed some of the same scenes to compare. What is everyone using for the 3d adjustment setting?

I don't use the 3d adjustment,leave it off. I use custom and have contrast at 100 and brightness at 66 and color at 60 @48hz. Color temp normal. Those are my 3d settings. Everything else off. I finished watching Underworld and had zero crosstalk, not one time did I see any kind of blurriness or double images.My wife even noticed it and a she never notices anything I change. I said do you notice anything and she said yeah it's sharper lol.
post #213 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

Calibration Results for a Dark Room

Picture mode - Custom

Contrast - 78 (76-82 is within ballpark but any higher will result in white clipping)
Brightness - 56 (D-Nice's ST30 reference is spot on)
Color - 48
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0
Color Temp - Warm 2
Color Mgmt - Off
C.A.T.S. - Off
Video NR - Off

HDMI Settings

RGB Range - Auto
Content type - Graphics (probably the most important setting to change, colors too saturated left OFF/Auto)

Advanced

Block NR - Off
Mosquito NR - Off
Motion Smoother - Off (Weak showed little to no artifacts)
Black Level - Light
3:2 Pulldown - Auto

I've been using these settings and they work for me, but I picked up the WOW disc to try my own calibration. I ended up with:

Contrast - 79
Brightness - 46
Color - 49

Left everything else the same. I was surprised my brightness was so far off, but my eye is untrained (never done one of these before), and my tv is only a week old. Gonna try these settings and see how I like them.

Thanks again for your work in this thread pathofneo.
post #214 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamajeep View Post


I've been using these settings and they work for me, but I picked up the WOW disc to try my own calibration. I ended up with:

Contrast - 79
Brightness - 46
Color - 49

Left everything else the same. I was surprised my brightness was so far off, but my eye is untrained (never done one of these before), and my tv is only a week old. Gonna try these settings and see how I like them.

Thanks again for your work in this thread pathofneo.

I use his settings for 2d aswell,I just wish his damn 3d glasses would arrive so we can see what kind of 3d settings he comes up with.
post #215 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgeek543 View Post

Mine is virtually crosstalk free now in most movies or the times it's there it's very faint and in dark scenes. I have found in order to get the least amount the contrast has to be at 100 and turning the brightness up helps a little and keep the 3d adjustment off.Also I have found that to me the color temp set to normal looks best. The crosstalk was horrible when I first started using the 3d,maybe I've just gotten use to it lol. It also has alot to do with the content,as I get almost zero crosstalk in underworld awakening and it's a dark movie. I guess you also have to realize that I got this 50" 3d TV for a broken 42"g10 with atrocious blacks that i got for $550, so I'm in heaven right now lol. Not bragging just saying I went from watching garbage to a new Ut50 and it amazes me all around.

Yeah, I may have misspoke a little. I should mention that while viewing Tintin, I came across very little crosstalk. It actually looked really good. Same with Hugo, which I watched a little bit of earlier today. There was a little more noticeable crosstalk in that one, but nothing terrible. I'd say it's the video games that give me the most noticeable crosstalk. And I would have to blame it a little on the tv, and a little on the games themselves. The tv is most definitely at fault for the crosstalk present in Killzone 3, since my Samsung plasma had no problems running that game at all. But you can tell the 3D on Halo Anniversary was an afterthought, so I'm guessing a poorly done 3D mode on that game was probably to blame.
post #216 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamajeep View Post

I've been using these settings and they work for me, but I picked up the WOW disc to try my own calibration. I ended up with:

Contrast - 79
Brightness - 46
Color - 49

Every panel is going to be different, but generally I find recent Panasonics to be 1 click +/- on these sets as you can see with our numbers. But your brightness is way low and I believe I know why.

Adjusting brightness with Wow disc

First and foremost only set in the environment that you normally watch. If that's at night then do it with the lights out. You shouldn't be seeing anything but the display turned on. Navigate to the basic brightness pattern (first one). Start with brightness set high to something like 65. You'll see dithering ie dancing pixels now so let's move on. Now start reducing brightness one click at a time until the pixels stop dancing and the screen fades to black. This should be 57 or 58. From here you'll end up dialing down 1 click to rid of the last remaining dancing pixels. If you look closely on the left side (or somewhere) you'll see them. It sounds to me like you kept decreasing brightness until the 3rd bar on the right side disappeared. You need to do the opposite and raise it until the bars on the left side appear. So you want to keep the 3 bars on the right showing and raise the brightness until you see something on the left/middle/elsewhere on the screen. Then back it down 1 or 2 depending on how you can live with those pixels.

Note about going -1 than perfect reading:

Decreasing brightness 2 clicks from 58 (bar on left showing) down to 56 nearly defeats dithering on this set. That's why I back it down an extra click from perfect. This eliminates false contouring, and is the difference that makes 480/720p content on your set go from poor/acceptable/good to acceptable/good/great. 57 looked like the perfect reading but 56 erases all nasty artifacts from less than stellar sources. The same rule applied with the Kuro as I ended up with D-Nice's setting of 0. +1 on the Kuro was perfect but only for Blu-rays. Anything less and false contouring shows up (and possibly a low bitrate 1080p source).

Something else to keep in mind is when your finished making adjustments to go back and re-do the whole process. It won't take you long as you already know what to look for. Most often a setting will need changing to match. Be careful when you set the color and hue as you want all 4 bars to look identical. This will take some time and strain on your eye for your fist go around. So it's best to set one thing at a time (color first) then take a break and set the tint. It's easy to make an error staring at the patterns through that little filter. I'm OCD and triple checked with color not being correct at 47 or 49. But if you got 47 then it sounds good to me. Take your time with it.
post #217 of 2596
The glasses now have as estimate delivery date of Tues May 15th. It's unusual for Amazon to not be so prompt but it's probably because I ordered it bundled with some other stuff. Sorry about that guys.

Hindsight is telling me
post #218 of 2596
I've had the glasses for several weeks now and find 3D viewing most enjoyable in Vivid.

Set in any other mode, the picture just comes off a bit too dark IMO.
post #219 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haroof View Post

I've had the glasses for several weeks now and find 3D viewing most enjoyable in Vivid.

Set in any other mode, the picture just comes off a bit too dark IMO.

I'm aiming to change that when I get a little sit-down time with the glasses when they arrive. I calibrated the 42ST30 and got an acceptable 3D picture. I'm hoping to nail the brightness and color and we'll see how the rest of the options line up.
post #220 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post


I'm aiming to change that when I get a little sit-down time with the glasses when they arrive. I calibrated the 42ST30 and got an acceptable 3D picture. I'm hoping to nail the brightness and color and we'll see how the rest of the options line up.

I'm 30min into transformers dark of the moon at 48hz and have already seen some great effects and have so far only seen one instance of crosstalk and it was just in a background shot of a tiny very distant earth from the alien moon wreckage. This completely contradicts all the 60hz crosstalk I got from the same movie downloaded and streamed via PMS. This is great news for us 2012 panny owners because 48hz 3d viewing is very acceptable for movies and practically eliminates crosstalk. We may be out of luck though when it comes to 3d gaming or enjoying 3d rips. I really need to get Hugo,I'm very interested to see what the outcome of it will be because it was watchable but had the most ct of any movie i've seen at 60hz so far.
post #221 of 2596
Very exciting! Cnet and others have tendencies to jump the gun assuming things without digging deep like you have. I always wished 48hz would work smoothly for 3D. If I'm not mistaken isn't the panel applying 3D motion smoothing for 48hz? That seems to be what the jargon on Panny's website is getting at.

It sounds like I'm going to finally enjoy 3D now. I saw Underworld Awakening at the IMAX in 3D and it was breathtaking. Normally I don't like seeing my fav films in 3D...at least not the first go around. But this one changed my mind. It kinda made me wish I opted for the 60" to get the full effect. But I knew as I watched that film that I wanted a 3D display and hoping there's a good one for this year.

I was disappointed not finding a box on my doorstep yesterday.
post #222 of 2596
It is pretty exciting because I'm a big fan of 3d.CNET really should be aware of this. It looks smooth but you'd think if it was using the smoothing the motion smooth setting would be greyed out but isn't. It does look pretty nice at 24fps and motion smoothing at medium. I still prefer motion smoothing off though as it looks to weird for me lol. I've watched underworld 3 times and haven't seen crosstalk anywhere. If it's there I sure haven't seen it.
post #223 of 2596
People who are trying 48hz and still complaining of bad crosstalk are prolly setting their Blu-Ray player to 48hz and that doesn't work,you have to set the TV aswell.
post #224 of 2596
Outstanding. I loved Underworld so I'm gonna have a blast with this one. I have a small stack of 3D blu-rays I caught on sale over the holiday so I'm looking forward to it. I have yet to see any of them. I got them after I returned the ST30 and have been using the Kuro ever since. But knowing me I tend to pull the trigger on things when there's a good enough sale. I paid $10-15 each between Amazon/Deep Discount on New Year's. Knowing they probably wouldn't drop this low for awhile I went ahead and stocked up!

Hope to join the 3D club soon.
post #225 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgeek543 View Post

People who are trying 48hz and still complaining of bad crosstalk are prolly setting their Blu-Ray player to 48hz and that doesn't work,you have to set the TV aswell.

Sounds to me like Panasonic should have defaulted 3D to 48hz from the factory (probably not possible though).
post #226 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

Every panel is going to be different, but generally I find recent Panasonics to be 1 click +/- on these sets as you can see with our numbers. But your brightness is way low and I believe I know why.

Adjusting brightness with Wow disc

First and foremost only set in the environment that you normally watch. If that's at night then do it with the lights out. You shouldn't be seeing anything but the display turned on. Navigate to the basic brightness pattern (first one). Start with brightness set high to something like 65. You'll see dithering ie dancing pixels now so let's move on. Now start reducing brightness one click at a time until the pixels stop dancing and the screen fades to black. This should be 57 or 58. From here you'll end up dialing down 1 click to rid of the last remaining dancing pixels. If you look closely on the left side (or somewhere) you'll see them. It sounds to me like you kept decreasing brightness until the 3rd bar on the right side disappeared. You need to do the opposite and raise it until the bars on the left side appear. So you want to keep the 3 bars on the right showing and raise the brightness until you see something on the left/middle/elsewhere on the screen. Then back it down 1 or 2 depending on how you can live with those pixels.

Note about going -1 than perfect reading:

Decreasing brightness 2 clicks from 58 (bar on left showing) down to 56 nearly defeats dithering on this set. That's why I back it down an extra click from perfect. This eliminates false contouring, and is the difference that makes 480/720p content on your set go from poor/acceptable/good to acceptable/good/great. 57 looked like the perfect reading but 56 erases all nasty artifacts from less than stellar sources. The same rule applied with the Kuro as I ended up with D-Nice's setting of 0. +1 on the Kuro was perfect but only for Blu-rays. Anything less and false contouring shows up (and possibly a low bitrate 1080p source).

Something else to keep in mind is when your finished making adjustments to go back and re-do the whole process. It won't take you long as you already know what to look for. Most often a setting will need changing to match. Be careful when you set the color and hue as you want all 4 bars to look identical. This will take some time and strain on your eye for your fist go around. So it's best to set one thing at a time (color first) then take a break and set the tint. It's easy to make an error staring at the patterns through that little filter. I'm OCD and triple checked with color not being correct at 47 or 49. But if you got 47 then it sounds good to me. Take your time with it.

Thank you very much for that simple explanation. Can you explain what I should be doing with the contrast test pattern? That one confused me as well (the one with the stars).

I'm going to redo it again tonight once it gets dark.
post #227 of 2596
This is a ut50 and my older g10, I wanted to show the black levels on each and see what you guys thought?
LL
post #228 of 2596
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonyxbr1980 View Post

This is a UT50 and my older G10, I wanted to show the black levels on each and see what you guys thought?

Hey that's not a fair fight

The black levels on the G10 are the worst than any other Panasonic model since 2008 (yet i still love my G10 LOL). If i end up getting a GT50 later this year, the contrast improvement is going to be a shock to my system
post #229 of 2596
Question for you guys. I am seriously considering buying this TV for my bedroom. My viewing distance is 10 feet. At my local PaulsTVs, the manager told me he had a 42 inch UT50 in stock (a guy bought it and then returned it a week later because it was too small for him). He told me he would sell me it for $680. Should I hop on this offer? Or should I ignore it and buy the 50 inch one that sells for $1000. Need advice, what would you guys do?
post #230 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jawzey View Post

Question for you guys. I am seriously considering buying this TV for my bedroom. My viewing distance is 10 feet. At my local PaulsTVs, the manager told me he had a 42 inch UT50 in stock (a guy bought it and then returned it a week later because it was too small for him). He told me he would sell me it for $680. Should I hop on this offer? Or should I ignore it and buy the 50 inch one that sells for $1000. Need advice, what would you guys do?

Go for the 50 inch. At 10 feet a 42 inch is going to be too small.
post #231 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

Hey that's not a fair fight

The black levels on the G10 are the worst than any other Panasonic model since 2008 (yet i still love my G10 LOL). If i end up getting a GT50 later this year, the contrast improvement is going to be a shock to my system

I know but I really wanted to see if I would keep the G10 or sell it to a friend and I just sold it. I will miss it but I really like the ut, however, I wonder why we do not get any 42inches here other than the UT.
post #232 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonyxbr1980 View Post

This is a ut50 and my older g10, I wanted to show the black levels on each and see what you guys thought?

The one on the right has an amazingly better picture than the left one.
post #233 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

Hey that's not a fair fight

The black levels on the G10 are the worst than any other Panasonic model since 2008 (yet i still love my G10 LOL). If i end up getting a GT50 later this year, the contrast improvement is going to be a shock to my system

That's what my vt20 looks like, Gotta upgrade
post #234 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamajeep View Post

Can you explain what I should be doing with the contrast test pattern?

The pattern with the stars can be confusing. In fact on some displays it just doesn't work right. For me, the only flat panel it worked almost correctly on was the Kuro. It worked perfectly for the Sony 34XBR960 though. For this I recommend choosing the basic test pattern.

Instructions for calibrating contrast with Wow

Choose the basic test pattern and you'll be using the first pattern. The one with the bars on each side (exactly like the brightness pattern). What you want to look at is the 2 bars on the right side. Don't worry about anything else...just the 2 bars furthest on the right side (ignore the 3rd bar even). You can either set your contrast really high or low. If set to 100 you'll reduce it 1 click at a time until you see a faint line in between the bars. Usually this occurs between 80-88. Once you see the line appear at all verify this by adjust +1 to make it go away. Get to the point where +/- 1 either shows a faint line or disappears. This was somewhere around 83-84 for me. If you start low (60) then you'll raise it until the line goes away and both bars blend.

I'm guessing now your between somewhere around 80-85. From here you want to bring it down just enough until there is an obvious line separating the bars. If you don't (line is too faint) then you'll clip whites. It's tricky but you want to keep the bars blending a solid white color until they no longer blend. At that point raise it up +1 until it blends. Now you've reached peak white without clipping. The star pattern didn't work for me because it had my contrast set to 100 and I know that's not right. It's also a tall tale sign that old crts like the 34XBR960 had monstrous contrast ratios.

This can be harsh on the eye so you'll definitely want to re-check it later. You most likely won't be 100% accurate as this is only a test disc for your eye versus a meter but it gets you right in the ballpark. For reference I used test patterns by eye/filter with my 5020 and D-Nice's setting of brightness/contrast/color were identical. However I've used D-Nice's settings with several displays now so call it cheating but it helped me know what to look for in these patterns.

The book included is pretty useful so be sure and read it, along with watching demos.
post #235 of 2596
Well good news. I got Hugo and the ran the same test cnet did only at 48hz where he is reaching for the mouse and the double image of his hand is extremely hard to see wich is good. You have to look hard to notice it as it is almost non existent,where at 60hz it was very distinct. Cnet really should know about this. I want my credit for it lol.
post #236 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonyxbr1980 View Post

This is a ut50 and my older g10, I wanted to show the black levels on each and see what you guys thought?

That looks like my pz800u... Damn rising blacks.
post #237 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by sage11x View Post

That looks like my pz800u... Damn rising blacks.

If it was "rising blacks" would it not be darker or maybe I do not understand the rising blacks problem, thus I would not know if I had it or not. My g10 just looks less black to me than the ut50. It is still a good picture compared to a lot of L.E.D TV''s. Really wish it had a filter. I now wonder if we will ever see a 42inch here again.
post #238 of 2596
Older Panasonic plasmas had their black levels get lighter after several hours. Black levels rising means that their measured brightness increases.
post #239 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonyxbr1980 View Post

I now wonder if we will ever see a 42inch here again.

I doubt there will be another 42" 1080p in the USA.
post #240 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgeek543 View Post

Well good news. I got Hugo and the ran the same test cnet did only at 48hz ... Cnet really should know about this. I want my credit for it lol.

That was a great catch!
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