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Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 73

post #2161 of 2596
does it have all the other stuff that came in the box? are you gonna wall mount it?
post #2162 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

does it have all the other stuff that came in the box? are you gonna wall mount it?

Just the remote. Yes, it'll be wall mounted as I'm retiring my current 55'' LCD that's on the wall right now.
post #2163 of 2596
Pretty good price, get the extended warranty and check or burn-in or image retention. Might be a good idea to check the hours on it, too.
post #2164 of 2596
is there a way to check the hours?
post #2165 of 2596
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/hdtv-video-displays-processors/23475-how-check-hours-used-your-plasma.html

Taken from that page:
_____________________________________________________________________________________
2011 Models : _X3 / S30 / ST30 / GT30 / VT30
2010 Models : _X24 / C2 / U2 / S2 / G20 / G25 / GT20 / GT25 / VT20 / VT25

Press and hold the {VOL -} button ON THE PLASMA TV.
Then press the {INFO} button on the remote control 3 times.

"Start Adjustment Menu" message will be displayed followed
by the Service Menu after few seconds.

ADJUST {Picture Adjustment}
WB-ADJUST {White Balance Adjustment}
OPTION {Option Setting}
V-SUS {V-SUS Adjustment}
AGING
SRV-TOOL {Service Tool}
{1} & {2} buttons move through options

Press the {2} button once to select "SRV-TOOL".

Then press the {OK} button to access it.

Using the cursor keys, highlight the right side
of the last item "PTCT :00.00.00.00.00" :


Then press and hold the {MUTE} button for 3 seconds.

Time and Count will be displayed in red color:


__TIME = Hours : Minutes of operation.
COUNT = Times the Plasma was powered on.

To exit, unplug the power cable.

<<<<<<<<<< WARNING BY BRUZZI >>>>>>>>>>
The {VOL+} & {VOL-} buttons are used to change values
while in the Service Menu. Make sure not to touch those
buttons anytime while checking the hours used.


Read more: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/hdtv-video-displays-processors/23475-how-check-hours-used-your-plasma.html#ixzz2MKRKarpv
____________________________________________________________________________________

Remember that this is the service menu so be cautious to follow the directions, and no one here is liable for your decision to partake in these operations. That said, it's not as scary as it sounds, just follow the directions and press the right buttons. You will see how many times the TV has been turned on and how many hours it has been on for.
post #2166 of 2596

I use this method at the local AV store when I inquired about a 55GT50 model. The salesman assured me the set was mounted no longer than a month. I asked how many hours and of course he said there was no way to check. I showed him how and discovered it had 361 power-ons and 2900 hours on time; lot of hours in that guys month i guess. He was less than pleased when I told him the only way out of the SM was to unplug the set.
post #2167 of 2596
I have a question. I have a geforce gtx 480 and I set it to output to 1080p/24, but when I try to play 24fps content, it's jerky as hell. It's like every few frames it goes back a frame or something. I'm guessing it's software related, as moving my mouse and windows around doesn't seem to exhibit this same behavior. Has anybody else experienced this, and if so, how did you solve it? It plays 24fps content just fine in 60hz mode. I'm running my TV as my second monitor. My first monitor is running 1600x900 @ 72Hz.
post #2168 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Weatherbee View Post

I use this method at the local AV store when I inquired about a 55GT50 model. The salesman assured me the set was mounted no longer than a month. I asked how many hours and of course he said there was no way to check. I showed him how and discovered it had 361 power-ons and 2900 hours on time; lot of hours in that guys month i guess. He was less than pleased when I told him the only way out of the SM was to unplug the set.

You can just press power, it's not necessary to unplug it.
post #2169 of 2596
So I got best buy to take 950 out the door for the 60'' display model with a 2 year extended warrant. Sounds like a decent deal? Other than the hours, how do you check for burn in? I've never owned a plasma... Does this set run pretty hot?
post #2170 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

You can just press power, it's not necessary to unplug it.

Oh, he tried that and it was staying on. Instructions said to unplug as well. I'll try this on my 60UT50 I just got tonight!

Can't wait to try your calibration settings Anikun07, and thanks for all your input in this thread and the settings thread.
post #2171 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Weatherbee View Post

Oh, he tried that and it was staying on. Instructions said to unplug as well. I'll try this on my 60UT50 I just got tonight!

Can't wait to try your calibration settings Anikun07, and thanks for all your input in this thread and the settings thread.

Thanks. You might try holding the power button down, too. The first instructions I read said to do that, but I've learned that my TV I can just press it once and it turns off and I press it again and it comes back on. If I hold it down that I'll hear the TV click off but then it turns back on again.
post #2172 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by E46M3 View Post

So I got best buy to take 950 out the door for the 60'' display model with a 2 year extended warrant. Sounds like a decent deal? Other than the hours, how do you check for burn in? I've never owned a plasma... Does this set run pretty hot?

yes, very hot
post #2173 of 2596
I just pointed my temp gun at it, depending on how hard the screen is working, bright/white vs dark/black, it's ranging from 90 F to 110 F. At one spot is was showing 114.5 F, but statistically I'm calling that an outlier and not counting is as a reliable/consistent reading.
post #2174 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post

I have a question. I have a geforce gtx 480 and I set it to output to 1080p/24, but when I try to play 24fps content, it's jerky as hell. It's like every few frames it goes back a frame or something. I'm guessing it's software related, as moving my mouse and windows around doesn't seem to exhibit this same behavior. Has anybody else experienced this, and if so, how did you solve it? It plays 24fps content just fine in 60hz mode. I'm running my TV as my second monitor. My first monitor is running 1600x900 @ 72Hz.

Update on this. When I run single monitor to the TV, everything works fine. Looks like it's trying to display the content at the refresh rate of the first monitor, and then running into trouble because it's actually playing on the second. Wouldn't think it would be an issue as the first monitor is a multiple of 24Hz, but idk. Can't seem to find any way around it other than simply disabling the first monitor or running the tv at 60Hz when I want to watch 24fps content from the PC to the TV. Pretty stupid.
post #2175 of 2596
So I got my 60UT50 wall mounted and ready to use, and through the initial setup menu I notices the country selection, which I selected 'Canada' where I live; I went to Viera connect and noticed that 'HuluPlus' was not there by default, nor was it available or listed in the app marketplace. I decided to re-run the initial setup and chose 'USA' instead; upon completion I went to Viera connect again and sure enough 'HuluPlus' app was automatically available. Any ideas why this is? I'm ok leaving it set to 'USA' so long as it won't have any negative impact on the region selection from Netflix, as I subscribe to UnblockUs in order to access USA and UK region Netflix content. Any thoughts?
post #2176 of 2596
Can 0someone tell me how to check for IR or burn in? I'm about to go pick up this 60'' floor model. Thanks!
post #2177 of 2596
I have a question about streaming music.

If I listen to Pandora thru my Denon AVR it makes my UT50 screen go black eventually until you press a button etc.
if I stream MP3's from my Apple TV there is no option to make the screen go black, but Apple TV has a screen saver... It will rotate lots of nice pictures in a cool pattern.

Are either of these better or worse for lengthening the life of my UT50? Does one of them suck more of the longevity out of my UT50 than the other? Thanks!
post #2178 of 2596
you can change that setting on the Denon to go on faster, slower, or not at all. What model is your Denon?

I either turn the Panasonic off and watch on 2d hdtv or on my iPhone
post #2179 of 2596
Denon 1912
post #2180 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I would vote for a sound bar or something similar. I think it would be cleaner and less "mess" than getting converters and the like. But if cost is your main concern then it might be cheaper to find an audio converter and setting everything up.
I have done a little research and it appears that the Panny toslink will be downconverted to 2-1from the native source such as blu ray to a soundbar which sort of sucks as the Blu Ray and many feeds will be a minimum of 5-1 and some 7-2. That means that the ony real way to get decent sound is to have an AVR to send the inputs to the Panny HDMI. It is unclear if the Panny HDMI 2 ARC which would be used by the 3D Blu Ray would be compatable with all brands of Blu Ray 3D.(the information from Panasonic is very lacking on this point and since ARC is supposed to be 2 way communication, not all mfg are on the same spec)

So if 2-1 sterio is what you want then the Panny's toslink optical is ok and a cheapo soundbar would be Ok

If you want to do it right then an AVR link the Denon 1613, 1713,which are 5-1 or 1913 that is 7-1 would be the ticket. Then You can also get some headphones and plug them into the AVR and not bother your spouse with a late night movie.
Edited by generallee - 3/2/13 at 4:11pm
post #2181 of 2596
Can anyone comment on the high failure rate for these units. All the negative reviews Ive read at various websites have all been due to the early failure rate.
post #2182 of 2596
There isnt one. Thats my comment on the high failure rate. Read this thread for more info.
post #2183 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by generallee View Post

I have done a little research and it appears that the Panny toslink will be downconverted to 2-1from the native source such as blu ray to a soundbar which sort of sucks as the Blu Ray and many feeds will be a minimum of 5-1 and some 7-2. That means that the ony real way to get decent sound is to have an AVR to send the inputs to the Panny HDMI. It is unclear if the Panny HDMI 2 ARC which would be used by the 3D Blu Ray would be compatable with all brands of Blu Ray 3D.(the information from Panasonic is very lacking on this point and since ARC is supposed to be 2 way communication, not all mfg are on the same spec)

So if 2-1 sterio is what you want then the Panny's toslink optical is ok and a cheapo soundbar would be Ok

If you want to do it right then an AVR link the Denon 1613, 1713,which are 5-1 or 1913 that is 7-1 would be the ticket. Then You can also get some headphones and plug them into the AVR and not bother your spouse with a late night movie.

I tried to connect some old computer speakers through an optical to analog converter, but my OTA channels weren't giving any audio. I found on Panasonic's support Q&A that the optical will output whatever the original source was and they reiterate that you have to get a converter that has a Dolby decoder if you want to convert it down to stereo. I ordered some cheap-o Chinese optical-to-analog converter with a decoder of some sort and now it's working. I want to test somehow if it's just mushing everything into mono.
post #2184 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfD View Post

I have a question about streaming music.

If I listen to Pandora thru my Denon AVR it makes my UT50 screen go black eventually until you press a button etc.
if I stream MP3's from my Apple TV there is no option to make the screen go black, but Apple TV has a screen saver... It will rotate lots of nice pictures in a cool pattern.

Are either of these better or worse for lengthening the life of my UT50? Does one of them suck more of the longevity out of my UT50 than the other? Thanks!

Ok here is my actual question. Which is worse for the ut50 display: having it on but the screen blackened or having it on and running the ATV plasma friendly screensaver?
post #2185 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfD View Post

Ok here is my actual question. Which is worse for the ut50 display: having it on but the screen blackened or having it on and running the ATV plasma friendly screensaver?
Not sure how you will do it but if you can accomplish a black screen that would be best imo. It should put no real wear on the tv and would create very little heat. Assuming all the pixels are off. Too bad they dont have a "screen off" option like some tvs where basically nothing is working except the audio.
post #2186 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Not sure how you will do it but if you can accomplish a black screen that would be best imo. It should put no real wear on the tv and would create very little heat. Assuming all the pixels are off. Too bad they dont have a "screen off" option like some tvs where basically nothing is working except the audio.

Denon AVR xx12 and xx13 makes the screen black when listening to Internet media sources for longer than say a minute. I don't know if this means that all the pixels are off or not.
post #2187 of 2596
So does the Denon xx11
post #2188 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfD View Post

Denon AVR xx12 and xx13 makes the screen black when listening to Internet media sources for longer than say a minute. I don't know if this means that all the pixels are off or not.
Nice option and I would imagine thats exactly what its for.
post #2189 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by justaplasmaguy View Post

I tried to connect some old computer speakers through an optical to analog converter, but my OTA channels weren't giving any audio. I found on Panasonic's support Q&A that the optical will output whatever the original source was and they reiterate that you have to get a converter that has a Dolby decoder if you want to convert it down to stereo. I ordered some cheap-o Chinese optical-to-analog converter with a decoder of some sort and now it's working. I want to test somehow if it's just mushing everything into mono.
The Panny specs say that the output from the Toslink are Dolby Digital, and PCM, optical so it is true that one needs a decoder. I have an old Pioneer receiver that will do this. If one looks carefullly at the specs on the soundbar being purchased some will and some specifically say that they will not decode.

Probably the best option is to have a modern AVR that will handle these functions and also have a ethernet port. The problem in my case with having a AVR is the limited space and necessary wiring restrictions foor using an AVR unless I can find wireless speakers that are adequate for the job.
post #2190 of 2596
I can tell you from checking OTA signals that this toslink will output both Dolby Digital 5.1 for ABC, CBS, NBC and FOX, 2.0 for PBS and for all sub-stations and standard def'n.
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