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Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 20

post #571 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jawzey View Post

Hardcore is lame bro.

That's what the weaklings say.
post #572 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuiGonJosh View Post

That's what the weaklings say.

Haha, played a whole bunch of HC mode in CoD 4 and W@W. It was definitely fun in those modes, but I can't seem to like it that much in MW3.
post #573 of 2596
How is the input lag on this set? Lag is pretty much non existent on my ST50 in custom mode. I currently have a 60ST50 and the louvre filter is killing me. It creates really bad dirty screen effect on bright panning scenes. Does the lack of the filter help with it on the UT50? My living room isn't very bright so I'm thinking the UT50 won't be a problem, and it'll be worth switching to if it removes DSE. Thanks!
post #574 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathrattlehead View Post

How is the input lag on this set? Lag is pretty much non existent on my ST50 in custom mode. I currently have a 60ST50 and the louvre filter is killing me. It creates really bad dirty screen effect on bright panning scenes. Does the lack of the filter help with it on the UT50? My living room isn't very bright so I'm thinking the UT50 won't be a problem, and it'll be worth switching to if it removes DSE. Thanks!

Not a problem at all with regards to DSE on my 50UT50. Input lag is excellent. EXCELLENT!
post #575 of 2596
So what's IR like on 2.35:1 3D BD's? I'm guessing because the settings are much brighter than 2D viewing, I should avoid 2.35:1 3D movies for a little while longer. I watched about 15 minutes of RE: Afterlife and noticed some IR from the bars, but they seemed to go away very quickly.
post #576 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuiGonJosh View Post

Not a problem at all with regards to DSE on my 50UT50. Input lag is excellent. EXCELLENT!

Yeah, I've been gaming quite a bit on this tv, and am blown away by how little input lag there is. It was abysmal on my LCD.

And if you put it on Game mode, the lag is virtually non-existant. It's great.
post #577 of 2596
Hi everyone,

I'm a complete noob and a friend referred me to this site. I bought this TV yesterday for my basement and will be setting it up in a few days...this is my 1st plasma, so I'm a little nervous with IR and this "break in period" I've heard about...

Any advice for how long the break in period is, what settings I should use during that period, and the best settings for sports, TV , blu ray and video games after the break in period? Thanks in advance for your help
post #578 of 2596
You want to stay away from news crawls, bright station logos, and anything with a black bar for the first 100-300 hours of operation. Most people just run the break-in slides for 100 hours on Vivid and call it a day. IR is most notorious during the first few hundred hours of a panels life, so you want to make sure the phosphors age evenly during that time to avoid IR.
post #579 of 2596
I'm seriously considering switching from my ST50 to the UT50, which I never thought I would do...but I have questions regarding how reflective it may be. If I'm in my living room at night with a floor lamp on, will it reflect off the tv? I know during the day I have to keep direct sun off it, but I'm wondering if even having a single lamp on in the living room for light will be enough to create a reflection. I really don't feel like staring at myself while playing Killzone....I probably make dumb faces, lol.
post #580 of 2596
Well...I finally received the 50 UT50 from Amazon yesterday. It cam delivered by CEVA who opened it and plugged it in. I got it mounted and here are my intiial impressions. I immediately turned down Sharpness and Contrast a little in Cinema Mode and turned off all the superfluous options and put on HD movies from HBO and Cinemax as I didn't want any IR. First couple of movies I tried were X Men-First Class on Cinemax and Inception. X Men looked pretty bad as you could see fuzzy pixelation and I was worried. Then Inception was put on and it had none of that. However that is a dark movie and will probably look better once the set is calibrated but at least I knew that the fuzziness was content related.

i noticed some glare but my lights are overhead in the basement and I could live with it, though annoying. with lights out the picture just pops. I have owned most of the top end plasmas at one time or another in my quest to find the perfect balance of price and performance. Poor Best Buy has sold and taken back at least 10 and I have resold on craigslist a couple times as well. I drive my lady crazy!!

So...my 4 year old wants to watch Toy Story 3 so I put in on and turn off the lights and WOW! This is an amazing TV. Black Levels are the darkest I have ever seen. I preface this with the fact that I have never seen a calibrated Kuro but in store 151 at Best Buy a few years back looked awfully good....and it was $2500 dollars but I didn't have the funds at the time frown.gif I've also seen the Sharp Elite and VT50 at Best Buy in the Magnolia section and to my eye, the VT50 looked amazing. Both sets did but VT just called out to you ya know? Well I can't afford either and neither have been in my basement side to side with the UT50 so i don't know but I am telling you...the blacks with real world viewing cannot be that much different. I am thoroughly impressed in that regard. Tried my black level performance benchmark blu ray The Dark Knight as Chapter 2 beginning with cop looking up and drug dealer looking up at the bat signal in the sky and Chapter 7 with Batman and Harvey and cop on the roof and blacks are insane. Blend right into bezel and shadow detail is superb. This could improve with calibration so i am psyched.

Colors are rich and vibrant as is detail. At times watching Toy Story I was seeing things, little details I hadn't caught before...and I have watched that movie like a hundred times on many different TVs. the saturation and vibrancy was awesome. it really made me sorta giddy that I spent $899 for this kind of performance.

One problem I did see was in motion resolution. I turned off all the extra features including motion smoother and in the beginning of Toy Story 3 during the intro there was some jerky panning going on and I saw it a couple of other times during the movie. Not sure if I need to have that smoother on low or something. Maybe others can help me out. I will try it later.

Anyway, I love it and am currently running D-Nice Slides. Hopefully someone will come up with some reference service menu calibration settings for us or how to navigate SM.
post #581 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathrattlehead View Post

I'm seriously considering switching from my ST50 to the UT50, which I never thought I would do...but I have questions regarding how reflective it may be. If I'm in my living room at night with a floor lamp on, will it reflect off the tv? I know during the day I have to keep direct sun off it, but I'm wondering if even having a single lamp on in the living room for light will be enough to create a reflection. I really don't feel like staring at myself while playing Killzone....I probably make dumb faces, lol.

It depends on where the lamp is located in relation to the TV. I have a lamp that's in front of the TV and I see some glare when it's on, but it's not too horrible. Overhead lights aren't a problem at all.
post #582 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobitaille23 View Post

One problem I did see was in motion resolution. I turned off all the extra features including motion smoother and in the beginning of Toy Story 3 during the intro there was some jerky panning going on and I saw it a couple of other times during the movie. Not sure if I need to have that smoother on low or something. Maybe others can help me out. I will try it later.

Do you have your BD player set to 1080/24p or 1080/60p? I personally think motion is better setting the player to output at 60hz.
post #583 of 2596
Does anyone have any suggestions for settings when watching HD programming? I have Mediacom and I am very underwhelmed by the HD picture. granted, I know this could very well be a Mediacom issue-but wanted to check to make sure.
post #584 of 2596
I have it at 24...I will check it out...thanks
post #585 of 2596
Also, something i figured out a few days ago is that if using cinema you don't have to use graphics for hdmi content,in cinema mode the hdmi content setting appears to do nothing and is exactly the same as custom with hdmi content set to graphics. Also game and custom are the same except in game you can't use 3:2 pulldown or 24p,any changes in the sm to custom also change game.
Edited by pcgeek543 - 6/6/12 at 10:39am
post #586 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgeek543 View Post

Also, something i figured out a few days ago is that if using cinema you don't have to use graphics for hdmi content,in cinema mode the hdmi content setting appears to do nothing and is exactly the same as custom with hdmi content set to graphics. Also game and custom are the same except in game you can't use 3:2 pulldown or 24p,any changes in the sm to custom also change game.

Thanks.
post #587 of 2596
I'm also thinking maybe the hdmi content should be left to auto and the color down to 43. Thats going by dnice st50 reference settings. I know it is the st50 but it makes sense that it would work the same on the UT50 seeing as how he cut the color down to 43. If you don't like the color at hdmi/auto you can just use cinema for movies since it gives you the same as custom/graphics. This really helps giving you more presets seeing as how all three,cinema,game,and custom will all be the same if hdmi content is set to graphics. I think it looks pretty nice at auto in game/custom with the color at 43.

edit: I'm pretty sure that hdmi content should be at auto and color at 43 just like on the ST50 because gamma is supposedly off in cinema and cinema doesn't change regardless of what you set content type to and is exactly the same as custom and game when hdmi content is set to graphics. Gamma appears to change and looks much better atleast to me when hdmi content is set to auto.
Edited by pcgeek543 - 6/6/12 at 2:46pm
post #588 of 2596
What slides are you referring to?
post #589 of 2596
Just search for "D-Nice break-in slides" and you'll find them.
post #590 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobitaille23 View Post

I love it and am currently running D-Nice Slides. Hopefully someone will come up with some reference service menu calibration settings for us or how to navigate SM.

u watched all that content, then d-nice slides? why are u bothering with his slides? it's not required & it does nothing to help IR, it just allows the pdp to looks its best with his applied settings(st50/vt50) he hasn't calibrated a ut50 yet has he?
Edited by leftyguitar1963 - 6/7/12 at 10:42am
post #591 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathrattlehead View Post

How is the input lag on this set? Lag is pretty much non existent on my ST50 in custom mode. I currently have a 60ST50 and the louvre filter is killing me. It creates really bad dirty screen effect on bright panning scenes. Does the lack of the filter help with it on the UT50? My living room isn't very bright so I'm thinking the UT50 won't be a problem, and it'll be worth switching to if it removes DSE. Thanks!

I plan on getting a 55" HDTV in preperation For the Nintendo Wii U(Big retro Nintendo freak here), but I'm currently stumped on what to get. I'm Sold on the UT thanks to Neo's glowing review....But idealy, i need a set
that's rocking '16ms' as far as input lag goes..I know Panasonics lower end sets that dish out less processing are the best in this case. The only reason I'd consider LED is because I absolutely
love the beautiful bright image they can deliver, the beautiful bright whites, no screen glare and crisper/cleaner image they can produce for gaming. But
the inherent awful motion handeling with any LED/LCD is the big turn off, not only for many genre's in gaming but for movies at least for me it's absolutely terrible
and makes for one lousy artifical experience....Besides, do they EVEN make '60hz' 55" LED's? I wouldn't bother with 120hz OR 240hz as they're knownto boast more input lag....sigh*

Anyways! UT seems like my only 'plasma' option. Knowing that samsung plasmas are a step behind in terms of input lag. Anything above 16ms is unecceptable for me
in regarding to Motion/Gyro controls. Traditional controls are less sensitive since you're just clicking a button instead of 1:1 motion based movements.

Ahhh, I'm so used to CRT Tube Lag free gaming. XP
Edited by WaveBoy - 6/7/12 at 2:25pm
post #592 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftyguitar1963 View Post

u watched all that content, then d-nice slides? why are u bothering with his slides? it's not required & it does nothing to help IR, it just allows the pdp to looks its best with his applied settings(st50/vt50) he hasn't calibrated a ut50 yet has he?

I refer to the "D-Nice Slides' just so people know what I am talking about. They aren't actually his. I run the slides because I do believe it helps with IR, at least I found that it has from prior experience. I also believe that running the slides helps age it evenly across all ranges therefore making it 'ready' to calibrate. I don't for a second believe that running the slides for 100 hours and then using his settings for whichever models he's calibrated mean a darn thing. I actually find it laughable that there is an arbitrary set number of hours to run slides and that his settings will work any better for others tv's. He doesn't even enter the SM when he provides his 'applied settings'. Can anyone really explain how slides ran for 100 hours, over 90...or 150 hours makes a difference? I doubt it. I am going to run them for a few days and then calibrate. To each their own though.

As to why I watched all that content...I watched full Toy Story 3 with my girls because they were excited to see new tv. I just check other discs to quickly gauge black levels, shadow detail, colors. to see if I wanted to keep the tv or send it back.
post #593 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveBoy View Post

The only reason I'd consider LED is because I absolutely
love the beautiful bright image they can deliver, the beautiful bright whites, no screen glare and crisper/cleaner image they can produce for gaming.

Then you have no reason to worry. One of the redeeming qualities about the UT50 is the clean image it provides. It reminds me of an LCD with it being so clear. The whites aren't as white as your used to.. then again your seeing blue in those LCD whites so I question the accuracy. The fact that Panasonic left out the louvre filter on the UT coupled with better contrast means the clarity is remarkable for plasma tech. Generally I'd agree with you but not in the case of the UT50. It's a freakish model that will satisfy any guru. smile.gif
Edited by PathofNeo - 6/7/12 at 7:00pm
post #594 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobitaille23 View Post

I also believe that running the slides helps age it evenly across all ranges therefore making it 'ready' to calibrate.

You'd be correct. This is the sole reason to run the slides..whether you elect to use his settings or not. There's too many variables running any content straight out of the box. Between anamorphic bars, overly bright images, uneven pictures, etc there is no particular content you can watch to evenly age the pixels other than a screensavor/pattern set to loop. May as well run the slides and be done with it. Plus by displaying red, blue, and green for 100 hours really sets it up nicely since these are the three colors in which all others are measured.
post #595 of 2596
I just wanted to chime in on 3d. I purchased the Samsung battery operated 3d glasses model no.ssg-4100gb for $19.99. They are good for 2011/12 Samsung Plasmas and they do work great with the UT50. I was only able to watch Directv 3dnet and ESPN3d and I was pleasantly surprised given the somewhat negative reviews. I think the 3d is just fine. I am sure it will look even nicer on blu ray. Just haven't decided if I am going BP player or PS3.
post #596 of 2596
I bought a pair of the Samsung 3D glasses and wished I hadn't. They're uncomfortable, incredibly cheap, and flimsy. The Panasonic glasses are so much more comfortable and the image is a little bit better.
post #597 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuiGonJosh View Post

I bought a pair of the Samsung 3D glasses and wished I hadn't. They're uncomfortable, incredibly cheap, and flimsy. The Panasonic glasses are so much more comfortable and the image is a little bit better.

Wait, so you're saying that glasses which were substantially cheaper and produced by a different company don't work as good? Blasphemy!! biggrin.gif

I picked up two pairs of the Samsung glasses as well to try on my ST50. Could't pass up the incredible price on Amazon. I'm going to give them a shot expecting the worst, and if they end up being crappy I'll save them for guests and get myself the Panny glasses.
post #598 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathrattlehead View Post

Wait, so you're saying that glasses which were substantially cheaper and produced by a different company don't work as good? Blasphemy!! biggrin.gif
I picked up two pairs of the Samsung glasses as well to try on my ST50. Could't pass up the incredible price on Amazon. I'm going to give them a shot expecting the worst, and if they end up being crappy I'll save them for guests and get myself the Panny glasses.

That's pretty much what I'm going to do. I ordered two pairs of Samsungs the other day. I have yet to try the 3D so I need to do that soon. smile.gif The glasses are supposed to arrive tomorrow or Monday. My plan is to get one pair of Panasonics when I see a good deal.
post #599 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by boushh2187 View Post

That's pretty much what I'm going to do. I ordered two pairs of Samsungs the other day. I have yet to try the 3D so I need to do that soon. smile.gif The glasses are supposed to arrive tomorrow or Monday. My plan is to get one pair of Panasonics when I see a good deal.

Yeah me too. Despite the Samsung's being cheaper (both price and build) I highly doubt there is any difference in PQ as there didn't seem to be from my experience using the Panny glasses at BB the other day. They are more open on the sides which lets in light but I am in completely dark basement so it doesn't affect me too much I guess. If Panny ever gets down to $30 I will pick some up but not until then.
post #600 of 2596
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobitaille23 View Post

Yeah me too. Despite the Samsung's being cheaper (both price and build) I highly doubt there is any difference in PQ as there didn't seem to be from my experience using the Panny glasses at BB the other day. They are more open on the sides which lets in light but I am in completely dark basement so it doesn't affect me too much I guess. If Panny ever gets down to $30 I will pick some up but not until then.

The light on the sides can be annoying during the day for me with the Samsung glasses. I have the 3050 model glasses which are essentially the same except for the universal capability, and they let in a lot of light from the window on the left side of my living room. I really don't watch 3D during the day though, so it's not a problem for me. My wife and I occasionally watch a 3D blu-ray at night and they work fine, so I'm assuming the 4100's will be the same.

In case anyone hasn't noticed, in the VT50 thread someone discovered that when watching a blu-ray, setting your set to 48hz mode makes 3D much better, reducing crosstalk by a large amount. The impact was so great that CNET has altered their reviews of the 2012 sets to reflect it. 48hz mode is bad for regular viewing due to the flicker, but apparently when watching 3D it doesn't have an impact. Can't wait to try it!
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