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Hawaii Home Theater Construction - Page 19

post #541 of 755
Thread Starter 
Acras..... sage advice and wisdom beyond your years smile.gif I'll be following you plan going forward since one calibrator stated that if he would only consider making the trip out here when he's already in California working on other theaters which will take place in Dec/Jan timeframe. So I'll be tinkering away for a few months prior to his arrival (if he is even willing to fly out and it won't cost me an insane amount).
Edited by psychdoc - 7/17/13 at 9:00pm
post #542 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

If I were you, I'd skip the QSC and live with the Marantz 8801's processing capabilities for a good long while before making the investment in the QSC stuff. I am sure you will be stunned by the sound quality and it will be easier for you to play around, make adjustments and generally learn how changes you make in the processor affect the in-room sound.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

I think it makes sense to assess the sound quality and to make certain measurements (like with REW) before deciding you need any EQ or whether to alter the acoustic treatment. Then, after getting familiar with the sound, no harm in running the XT32 setup in the Marantz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acras13 View Post

My very amateur 2 cents Psych would be plug it in , fire it up and run it for a while , make some changes based on your personal preferences , live with it for a bit , then evaluate whether or not you want to ship a calibrator out to your place.

Sounds like consensus to me! biggrin.gif
post #543 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post



Sounds like consensus to me! biggrin.gif



+1
post #544 of 755
Thread Starter 
Agreed. It is the common sense thing to do. I have many months to go before my room is completely done. While the work is ongoing I expect that the room will be operational and I'll be able to play with it and tweak it (although moving those heavy subs is a real pain in the butt). At that point I'll make the decision to pay the extra bucks for a calibrator only if I feel I'm missing something.

The second door went up last night. Some adjustments were necessary but all is good. Once I get my zero sound kits on both of those doors..... that room will be a sound vault eek.gif (with the exception of some deep low bass). It's still an unusual feeling to have a movie blasting at daytime "I'm home alone" levels at night and not get the "TURN IT DOWN!" from the wife that I've gotten so used to over the years. I've also left the room with the movie on and walked to different parts of the house to see if I could hear anything. In most parts you can hear absolutely nothing. Our bedroom directly above the theater you can hear bass, although at reduced levels. Overall, the soundproofing version I've used is quite effective. The downsides.... I'll never hear the kids or anyone else while in the theater which could be a safety issue if the kids ever need help or get hurt while playing (which is all the time). I'll need to address that when the home automation portion kicks in after final inspection. I still have to work on the bathroom before that happens, however. This whole thing is going to take a while. smile.gif
post #545 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post



Love the kids' reaction and excitement!

THAT ^^ my friend, is what this is all about. Never forget it.

All the work, and money, and techno-playing is just the cost of admission. But THAT is the main event! You'll be creating memories for a lifetime.



At least until they become teenagers. Then all bets are off! rolleyes.gif

563717_410804988948960_205344452828349_1485543_267844825_n.jpg
post #546 of 755
Thread Starter 
Thanks Hanesian, that is the plan smile.gif
post #547 of 755
Hi Matt!

That room looks Awesome! It has come so far so fast since we left, you should be proud of yourself for what you have been able to accomplish. That is a huge undertaking considering this is definitely not your field of expertise. I do wish we could have stayed longer to help you get it finished and hang out with you outside that room a little more. Jim and I are on here frequently checking out the new pics you post...keep'em coming! smile.gif
post #548 of 755
Thread Starter 
Thanks Dawn. It was a lot of fun having you both out. Now that we have a bigger house hopefully we can have you guys out here more often. Maybe it'll be finished by your next visit rolleyes.gif . Tell Jim I said hello.

It certainly looks much different in the room since you left but there is still lots left to do. I'm getting confident that it will likely exceed my expectations that I had when I was first planning the room 20 months ago which is very surprising considering the learning curve I've unexpectedly had to go through. Still, we'll see how the Star Ceiling and molding throughout the room turns out. Done well, those two things will really make this room pop. Done poorly..... well, let's not think of that.

Don't worry about the pics, I'll keep them coming smile.gif
post #549 of 755
Thread Starter 
Outer door progressing in form. Here is the lock. I made sure I could secure the door and limit access to the theater but the keypad makes it easy getting in and out



Here is the outer theater door overall. The more it's taking form the more I believe that if you can do two doors with sound proof kits you will block out a lot more sound then one of those very expensive sound proof doors advertised on the internet. At a minimum it should be equal but it would be far less expensive. Just my opinion but the usual weak link in sound proofing is becoming quite a sound blocker in its own right smile.gif .

post #550 of 755
Thread Starter 
More photo updates... starting to install the baseplates on the the zero door soundproof kits. I'm installing two of them. One on each of the two doors you see.



Top seal going in:



Next the side seals:



Overall, these went in rather easily. I made it so there is good contact with the door seal but that means closing the door takes a good pull. Not too much effort but more than a regular door. Here is the bottom seal with the section that is pushed out and down to make good contact.



One door down, one to go:)

post #551 of 755
With double seals that close I hope you can close your door normally. I've seen instances where the doors seal so tightly it actually creates a pressurized air pocket in the space between the doors. The opposite is true when you go to open the door in that there is an initial bit of suction. The air will be coming from and going through the split in your jamb, so it will be important that you preserve this pathway for the air when you cover the split in the jamb with the decorative molding.

Keep up the good work!
post #552 of 755
Thread Starter 
Wow, great timing. I was just looking at the final product and noticed I did a great job at caulking every little gap...ie I have a serious pressure problem. This room is going to be perfect if the North Koreans ever get lucky with one of their rockets filled with gas. This room and door seals are AIR TIGHT!!! I'll need to drill into the caulking to open up that air space where the hat channel is. biggrin.gif
Edited by psychdoc - 7/21/13 at 1:14am
post #553 of 755
Thread Starter 
Problem solved. Both doors went through final modifications and work very well now without the pressurization problem. Molding and trim still needed on the doors and the rest of the room. wink.gif

post #554 of 755
Looks nice and effective. Only one problem that Jim and I can think of.... Sarah is going to hook up "mama IPad" to that door and crack that code in less that a week. Lol.
post #555 of 755
Thread Starter 
I'm more worried about Nui and all his hair!!!

Installed the LEDs today. They will be on a dimmer and behind some Sapele trim so they will provide a warm indirect glow instead of bright, in your face, direct lighting. The plan is to have them on a Control4 dimmer which is not installed yet (that happens after final inspection wink.gif ). Here they are starting to go up:



Just about done but I still need to place strips below the lips of the stairs:





I think it turned out very nicely although the wife stated she would prefer white LEDs. Of course, this comes from the same person who likes ONLY white colors on the Christmas tree eek.gif (very boring). Final pic:

[/URL )

As always, more to follow.....
post #556 of 755
Will the Control4 dimmer dim the LEDs to off? Most dimmers I've read about have trouble dimming LEDs. It would be nice to find another alternative (although Control4 is a bit out of my price range).
post #557 of 755
Thread Starter 
I've read the same thing. One solution I've read is having high enough of a load. I'll let you know if the Control4 works or not. If it doesn't , it will be mad dash to find something that does. smile.gif
post #558 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post

I've read the same thing. One solution I've read is having high enough of a load. I'll let you know if the Control4 works or not. If it doesn't , it will be mad dash to find something that does. smile.gif

Yes, adding load will help, dimmers typically have a hard time regulating power in the small amounts that are needed to dim LED's. I've heard of people adding resistors in the junction box, adding a couple of small incandescent bulbs, and just adding more strings of LED's to bring up the total amps of the dimmed circuit. If you are comfortable with installing resistors that would be the cleanest, easiest way, rather than trying to figure out where to run another 50'or so of strip lights. Another option would be to put an incandescent light on the same dimmer, but have the light outside of the room, maybe outside the entry.
post #559 of 755
If you decide you want to add a load to help out the dimmer, this was one Mr.Tim suggested in my thread. It's rated for 25Watts, but notice that it's 1500Ohms - so in a 120V circuit, wired in parallel like a light bulb, it dissipates half that - 12.5W

However, Control4's data sheet for their dimmers (1) (2) state a minimum load of only 1W.
post #560 of 755
Thread Starter 
Thanks Fred! I'll have to keep that in mind if I run into problems.

I'm actually planning to use the Control4 Loz-5S1 shown here (I'm not sure how do do the slick link system with different colored words like you did in your message so here is the full link instead): http://www.control4.com/files/products/data-sheets/Control4-120V-Lighting.pdf The Loz-5S1, according to other articles on the web, is specifically designed for LED dimming. It will be inside my soffit where I installed my screen outlet. Hopefully it will work smile.gif But if not, you've provided a possible soution already. Thanks again.
post #561 of 755
I have LED valence lighting in my kitchen over my counter tops. Each strip is powered with a driver matched to the number of LED's, any where from 15 to 24/strip. They may be higher power LED's, but each load is very low. My understanding is that each driver could have been dimmed with a Leviton or Lutron dimmer. http://ledx.ca/ledx4.html Collectively, there are four drivers which can be dimmed with one "off-the-shelf" electronic dimmer.

I didn't know that you could have different types of lights on one type of dimmer without noise. It seems to me the resisters would be cleaner, if you had to go that route.
post #562 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Will the Control4 dimmer dim the LEDs to off? Most dimmers I've read about have trouble dimming LEDs. It would be nice to find another alternative (although Control4 is a bit out of my price range).

The Control4 dimmers will dim the LEDs smoothly to about 10% of brightness, then they will shut off. Same thing with turning them on. They will turn on immediately to about 10% then ramp up smoothly to 100%.
post #563 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post

I'm actually planning to use the Control4 Loz-5S1.
The Loz-5S1, according to other articles on the web, is specifically designed for LED dimming.

Are you sure you meant the Loz-5S1? From everything I've read, the Loz-5S1 is a SWITCH (On/Off), not a dimmer.
It appears the LOZ-5D1 is the dimmer variant. (just want to make sure you're getting what you want when you place an order!)
post #564 of 755
Thread Starter 
tephlon- good catch, I thought they were both dimmers. Looking at it again it would appear you are correct. None of the control4 stuff will be going in until after final inspection of the house so nothing has been purchased but at least that's one area there won't be any confusion in going forward. Thanks.

I'm still very curious if the dimmer will work for all my applications. I'm confident that speedoflight is correct regarding the long led run around my soffit but I'm still curious if it will work for the very short runs that will be under the lip of my stairs. If it doesn't work I'll need to just go with control4 switches that will go off and on automatically to light up the stairs. Some of it is for safety but a lot of it is for the fun factor. It's another case of me going a little overboard but it's fun! wink.gif
post #565 of 755
Great thread with a lot of good information! Thanks for documenting it all for the rest of us too!
post #566 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post


Use to live in Lanikai, I miss it frown.gif

That's a very nice room smile.gif
post #567 of 755
Thread Starter 
Mleclair- Thank you for the very kind words. Truly appreciated.

wse- Thanks to you as well. Is that your theater in your post? Very nice indeed. The Lanikai area is beautiful. I lived near there just over a decade ago when I was a medical resident. I used to go jogging in that Lanikai loop all the time. Very Very nice!!

Back to the theater..... it will come as no surprise that once the projector gets in the room with chairs and carpet you will start watching movies. Construction took a good long break and we watched most of our blu-ray movies. I'm running out of movies so the work is starting to gain steam again. I decided to make a plate to distribute the weight of the projector since MDF and drywall will be holding it up. I have 16 thick screws and 4 big bolts holding everything up. I predrilled in stages to ensure maximum strength. I tested it by pulling down with about 100 pounds of pressure and it was rock solid. Still, the Sony projector is not a tiny machine for both the ceiling as well as the Chief projector mount.



I did just about everything myself with the help of a lift although I had a "little" help.

post #568 of 755
Love all the Sapele! It's a beautiful wood and well suited to a theater. Congrats!
post #569 of 755
Beautiful theater Psychdoc!
post #570 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post

Mleclair- Thank you for the very kind words. Truly appreciated.

wse- Thanks to you as well. Is that your theater in your post? Very nice indeed. The Lanikai area is beautiful. I lived near there just over a decade ago when I was a medical resident. I used to go jogging in that Lanikai loop all the time. Very Very nice!!

Back to the theater..... it will come as no surprise that once the projector gets in the room with chairs and carpet you will start watching movies. Construction took a good long break and we watched most of our blu-ray movies. I'm running out of movies so the work is starting to gain steam again. I decided to make a plate to distribute the weight of the projector since MDF and drywall will be holding it up. I have 16 thick screws and 4 big bolts holding everything up. I predrilled in stages to ensure maximum strength. I tested it by pulling down with about 100 pounds of pressure and it was rock solid. Still, the Sony projector is not a tiny machine for both the ceiling as well as the Chief projector mount.



I did just about everything myself with the help of a lift although I had a "little" help.


When you mounted your projector you say 4 bolts are those only going thru wood or do they go into the drywall. I only ask as I have kinda the same thing going on in my install. I have 1.5 inch cross beams 16in apart so I will be looking at doing that with 4 screws on each end of the MDF (10 x 20in). I am mounting the epson 5010 (18lbs).
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