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Hawaii Home Theater Construction - Page 23

post #661 of 755
Thread Starter 
Hi Jim. That picture was the "before" pic. Last night I spent about three hours dialing it in. The current projection screen picture is clear and perfect in every way except there is a pincushioning effect. The lens itself now is just slightly aiming downward unlike the photo above. I'm going to play with it more tonight to see if I can dial it in more and reduce the pincushioning. I could disconnect everything and move it back by about 1-2 feet but I'm not sure that will be enough increased throw distance to solve the problem (while giving me a lot of work to do). Also, would increasing the throw distance 1-2 feet also reduce the brightness significantly??? Which is the best trade off? These are the questions that force me to search for answers.
post #662 of 755
Drop in brightness would be calculated with the inverse square law. So figure out the percentage of the doubling that an increase of 2' would be. If you are at 20'. Double that would be 40' or 20' difference. 2' is 10% of 20'. At 40' the image would only be 1/4 as bright or 75% darker. So 22' would be 10% of 75% darker or 7.5% darker. More or less.
post #663 of 755
This doesn't sound right. What about effect of the zoom lens? It allows you to spread the available lumens over the same area, except from a different throw distance. I would think the losses in brightness from a greater distance would be a function of the lens losses rather than the inverse square law.
post #664 of 755
Oops! ...you can zoom. Then as long as the image ends up being the same size the "only" drop in light should be from cutting through the smoke from all the deep thought in the room. biggrin.gif

You've got the same Lumens spread over the same area. Air density should have a negligible effect.

Change topic. I'm still curious about the lens alignment and what effect the internal image vertical shift could have with the axis. Again, not having set one of these up... can you set the shift to zero and with the anamorphic lens "moving" with the projector get it aimed pretty close to where it needs to be so that internal shifting in minimal? Working angles out on paper, might be lighter.

We never established how the image is shifted; by the chip physically moving or electronically, but either way the axis of the projected image is being tilted off the axis of the lens...unless the lens actually moves. If there is tilting between the two axes, this will get distorted when it hits the A. lens. If the axis of the image is the same as the axis of the joint lenses (and the distance between the two lenses is correct), there should be no unwanted distortion other than from defects in the optics. The center of the lens is always the sharpest and least distorted.
post #665 of 755
Thread Starter 
I played with the lens and it looks pretty darn good. A longer throw would have made it perfect but it is what it is.

I FINALLY put up the door casing and the trim around one of my racks. The rack components and overall appearance continue to improve. I need to order more stuff from MA but it looks darn good I must say. I'm still pretty surprised things are turning out the way they are considering this is my first attempt at any type of construction ever. smile.gif
Here are a couple of update pics:

The opening is for a future Control4 unit and at the bottom a grill vent will be added




post #666 of 755
Thread Starter 
Some more updates.... I was "on call" this week at the hospital so it was a VERY slow week for progress.... oh well. Still, some things continued to improve. First, I started unpacking things and realized my Bryston 6B SST2 was sent with the wrong faceplate.... ugh! It's been sitting in an unopened box for a long time so the error wasn't realized when it should have been. Instead of paying A LOT to send the 100 lb amp back from Hawaii it was worked out to send me the correct faceplate instead. No instructions were included so I was off to work, blind but determined. Aside from the 100 small screws that need to be removed as well as the separate three amps and supporting module, the procedure was sort of easy. It still took over one hour.

Step one: start pulling apart the amp:




and continue until you remove the faceplate:



attach new plate as well as attach handles:



Then put everything back together!

I also had a chance to unpack my Aerial Acoustics 20T's and moved my Aerial Acoustics LR5's to the "wide" position. Nothing is set in stone as everything will need to be adjusted and moved around for best results. Also in the pic are two Aerial SW12's, the other two SW12 subs are in the back of the room as well as the Aerial CC5 center channel. The other speakers are some of the side surround and height speakers by Aerial as well.


Edited by psychdoc - 10/20/13 at 10:50pm
post #667 of 755
Didn't know you were using 20T V2's...................................one of my favorites in my long arduous journey to find speakers for my theater.

BTW, are you planning to upgrade your projector.................ie. change out mother board?

The reason why I ask............well, I'm having second thoughts. I had a well respected AVS member visit my theater and after viewing 1000 he thought there was no real need for the upgrade..............................he was quite impressed with the 1000's picture. Has me thinking whether to upgrade or not............
post #668 of 755
Thread Starter 
Hey Double, great to hear there are other AA (Aerial Acoustic) fans out there smile.gif

I'm very excited about the Sony 4k 1000es upgrade. I signed up weeks ago, likely one of the first through my dealer. I think it would be a mistake not to upgrade. The price isn't too high and it makes it future proof. Without it you will be stuck shortly. It won't matter too much unless you have a big screen which you likely have. Without a doubt, 4k is the future. It won't hit us with force for a couple of years but at least we'll be ready. Heck, Sony will give us the 4K server and a bulb as part of the package. Sign me up! Just my opinion.
post #669 of 755
That is a very sweet Aerial system!

Forgive me if you answered this elsewhere -- just curious how you plan to cool the rack enclosures, especially the one with the Kaleidescape, Control4 etc.
post #670 of 755
Thread Starter 
Thanks Mike. smile.gif All the Bryston amps have yet to be installed so I've not heard the whole room in its final form yet but I'm looking forward to it. I still also need to install my AA 5B's for my "heights" as well as mount my side and rear surrounds. Lots of work still left to do.

To answer your question about my rack thermal management, each rack is sticking out of the back of a closet which forms the small hallway into my theater. On the front side of each closet is a door so you get full access to the back of the racks. On the top of each closet there is a vent with a fan that is ducted to the outside of the house. The comparison between being on and off is night and day (one day I had everything on and I forgot to turn the vent on and noticed the closet was quite warm after an hour or so). Had I done the same thing in the Bryston closet (if it was set up) you probably could have cooked an egg. Last week when my Control4 guy came over we talked about incorporating the vent switch to automatically come on as soon as the rack is turned on to ensure proper cooling at all times. wink.gif

I think there is a pic of my ducts and fans earlier in my thread. When I get some time I'll go back and dig them out and repost here.
post #671 of 755
Ah, good deal. The automatic fan is definitely the way to go -- too easy to forget otherwise! I unfortunately am not able to easily ventilate to outside (the racks adjoin the garage, so there are fire code issues to using air from there). And the oversized ductwork for the theater squeezed out any chance of an A/C duct feeding the kitchenette/equipment room. So, a mini-split air conditioner is going in this week. The racks stay cool enough day to day with the server, TiVo, etc. but when the theater doors close and all the components come on, I need the extra cooling.
post #672 of 755
Brystons are wonderful, but I can't understand for my life why you downgraded the faceplate... biggrin.gif
post #673 of 755
Thread Starter 
It's been a busy time at work. Still, I got my "height" speakers up. I had to create my own mounts using the threaded holes at the bottom of my Aerial Acoustics 5B's. It worked out pretty well. Here are a couple of pics (the Sapele wood will need some touching up but I'll do that tomorrow).



post #674 of 755
Thread Starter 
I finally made the acoustic panel next to the door that has the outlet in the middle of it. It wasn't as bad as I thought.



The wife in the photo. All 15 speakers are now mounted for my 11.4 system. As soon as my final racks arrive from MA I'll be able to test out everything.

post #675 of 755
Lookin' good Psychdoc! And the theater looks nice as well. biggrin.gif

Remind me again - is that a DTS Neo X speaker setup?


And be honest.....how many times have you retracted your screen?? tongue.gif
post #676 of 755
Thread Starter 
Thanks TMcG!!! biggrin.gif And thanks for theater compliment too wink.gif

And yes, you just busted me..... for all those thinking of building a theater..... listen up and learn from one of my biggest mistakes: YOU DON’T NEED A TV BEHIND THE SCREEN. I have yet to install my 80" tv (that I bought to save the Sony 1000 ES bulb when watching news or other silly broadcast tv programs) and I have no desire to do so. Thankfully we can use it in other parts of the house. I think if I install it behind the screen no one will ever use it except for the kids if we make them use it while watching cartoons. For me, watching everything on the big screen is just too much fun.

I'm not sure exactly what you'd call my exact setup from the strict measurements..... probably a hybrid Neo X or maybe a hybrid DSX or maybe just “Neo DSX”. My height speakers (Aerial Acoustic 5B's) sit slightly outside of the mains but not quite at 45 degrees as suggested for DSX. “Heights” are the least important and I think they will sound great where they are.

For anyone interested, I didn’t destroy the expensive Aerial Acoustics 5B’s by drilling into them. On the bottom of the speakers are predrilled holes that were likely meant for a speaker stand that I used for my own purposes. I simply inverted the speaker and used those threaded holes to support the speaker in my home-made speaker mount which is attached to the ceiling.

The next big decision is when to jump on the FOSI Star Ceiling. If I jump on it now I’d like for it to be done by the holidays which might be difficult considering it could take up to 200 hours to complete. I think I might try though….
post #677 of 755
psychdoc, very nice job so far. I was wondering why you would have a retractable screen with set a great setup but then I read about the 80" display... perhaps you should sell it and the screen and install or build a curved screen instead? It would be a perfect match for your a-lens and remove the pincushion you are experiencing. I know, you really want to spent some more $ ;-)

My experience with the FOSI ceiling is that you won't regret it, I love mine. But to be honest I usually turn it off during movies and enjoy it most whilst listening to music.

Good luck with the last few parts of the build. It is all to easy to lose focus on the build and just fallback to enjoying movies with the family.

Cheers,

- Paul.
post #678 of 755
Thread Starter 
Hi Moggie. That is another portion I'd do over differently. In my next theater (hopefully not for a long while) I will be using a curved fixed screen. For me to pull my current screen out would be a major event as I'd have to destroy the soffit as well as the sound proofing drywall and MDF. Lots of destruction which I want to avoid at this point. It would also cost significant coin to buy a new screen that I'd like and the budget for this project jumped out of my wallet long ago. The pincushion effect is actually very minimal and no one has ever noticed it. The only people that might see it are the perfectionists that love this hobby and visit sites like AVS, even then I have my doubts if most would see it unless it was pointed out.

I’m gathering the necessary data for the planning portion for my FOSI ceiling. I’m excited to start but dreading it at the same time (it’s going to make my nearly completed theater look like it’s smack dab in the middle of construction all over again… ugh).

How do you guys add that line at the bottom of your posts like “My old vic theater build”? I’ve looked around many times and could never figure it out. Thanks. By the way, very nice theater Moggie. I love the lighting and small touches you incorporated. It’s funny that since I started building my own theater and began working on my own thread I’ve missed some great entries on other build threads. I’ll have to catch up when mine is all finished. smile.gif
post #679 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post

How do you guys add that line at the bottom of your posts like “My old vic theater build”? I’ve looked around many times and could never figure it out. Thanks

Click on your name to go to your profile screen. Scroll down to where it says "Your Forum Signature". Click on EDIT / ADD. Type your name like "Hawaii Build", highlight the text and click on the chain "link" icon above the editor. Copy in the Hyperlink to your theater and you're done. You also have the option of tying a picture to your signature by selecting a photos link. And you can edit your profile pic from the AVS Standard to anything you want just by uploading the photo.
post #680 of 755
Thread Starter 
Thanks TMcG! Later today I'll follow your directions and see if I can get it done. I spent a few minutes going through your thread as well. Going slow and steady but it really should be a thing of beauty when it's all done! You seem to have quite a full range of skills if you're doing all of that yourself. In general terms, what is your profession again (if you don't mind me asking)? I find it really interesting when people do things way outside their formal training.

I'm still tinkering with what I want the final Contorl4 product to be. I think I might do that in stages. My first priority is to get all the bells and whistles going in the home theater and then see what works well and what doesn't and then get the rest of the house done down the road.

Another update, I'm still waiting for the three custom shelves from MA. Until they arrive I can't load up my three Bryston Amps into the Amp rack that will drive the other 7 speakers (heights, wides, and all four surrounds). Hopefullly they will come in the next week or so. Once they are installed I'll be happy to report on my views of DSX vs Neo X. I'm really looking forward to that!!!!! biggrin.gif

Another good piece of news…. It looks like my folks will be able to come out to Hawaii for a visit in a month or so. Really looking forward to that and spending time with them and having my children spend time with them (they don’t see them enough). It will be great having my pops out to help with the build as well. I still view him as the construction genius while I remain a simple neophyte (although a heck of a lot better than a couple years ago…. Good grief I used to be clueless). That star ceiling will be up in no time!!!!
post #681 of 755
Thread Starter 
Nice chatting with you TMcG…. I sent you another PM

Things are ordered for the star ceiling… the necessary 5’x10’x18mm ultralight mdf boards are being loaded on the boat on the west coast to arrive here in a couple of weeks. I also ordered a bunch of extra #58 drill bits a little bird informed me would be needed during this long project.

I think this weekend I’ll work on some more molding that I’ve avoided tackling so far. Geez, I want those MA custom shelves to arrive so I can test out my full 11.4 system….UGH!
post #682 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post

Nice chatting with you TMcG…. I sent you another PM

Things are ordered for the star ceiling… the necessary 5’x10’x18mm ultralight mdf boards are being loaded on the boat on the west coast to arrive here in a couple of weeks. I also ordered a bunch of extra #58 drill bits a little bird informed me would be needed during this long project.

I think this weekend I’ll work on some more molding that I’ve avoided tackling so far. Geez, I want those MA custom shelves to arrive so I can test out my full 11.4 system….UGH!

Thanks. Same to you.

A couple of things.....there is an option through FOSI where you can have dual electrical leads - one to the motor that spins the optics disc and the other that illuminates the bulb. Their standard version has only the single plug. You want the one where you have the two electrical leads so you can dim the bulb while the motor still receives full power from its own source. This leads me to the other option available from FOSI: a dimmable LED bulb ballast. I believe this is a $50 upgrade, but I would highly recommend it so you can dim the lighting.

I hope this is how you got your FOSI configured.

Did you get any of their other options like the comet or shooting star?
post #683 of 755
"#" drill!!! I didn't think anybody used # drills other than machine shops! What are you building here, a space ship? What are you going to use next, "letter" drills? biggrin.gif

My neighbour is on your rock this week for a little R & R.

I'm still stuck here in TO with our mayor....sigh. I'm so embarrassed.
post #684 of 755
Thread Starter 
Hi TMcG,

Roger that. I'm positive I ordered the two cord version (I think it was only a 25.00 upgrade specifically requested so I can dim it during movies). I'm not sure what bulb they sent me but since I ordered he first part I'll be a bit annoyed if they didn't send me the correct bulb. rolleyes.gif I'll check it out when I get home. I think mine has two shooting stars and two comets. They will need to be at the rear of the room so they don't become a visual distraction during the movie. I've yet to figure out exactly how I'll do them.

Hi Jim,
Sorry to hear you're not the one flying out. If your neighbor is into this stuff then he/she is welcome to come over and check out a demo as well. Just let me know. If it's their first time out here then I'm sure they will be very busy doing the "tourist thing" in the tourist trap called Waikiki. So was it wrong to use "#"???? Still learning this stuff...... smile.gif

The wife sent me a text photo of a MA box waiting for me at home. Let’s hope they sent me the correct items. This weekend might be filled with 11.4 bliss afterall!!! biggrin.gif
post #685 of 755
"#" is exactly right. Just surprised to see someone using these drill sizes (finding these drill sizes). There are about 100 irregularly stepped drill sizes between 1/64" and just under a 1/4", then as the size increases it switches to letters, A - Z. Very weird system.

So I guess we know what you are up to this week end! Good luck! No surprises!!! smile.gif
post #686 of 755
My wife and I went to Hawaii in MArch of last year. We visited the Polynesian Cultural center and had a blast all week enjoying the North East side. Your Theater is coming along B.E.A.Utifully! Thanks for sharing!smile.gif
post #687 of 755
More on the FOSI star ceiling... I think the shooting stars are a cool effect and quite subtle. The comet is actually quite obnoxious for a HT. If it happened very rarely it would be ok but because it is on a short schedule, and puts out quite a lot of light, it can be distracting whilst watching a movie. I wired up fiber for the comet in two locations on the ceiling, one mid room and the other at the rear. I wired up the central one. When I get motivated I'm going to change it to the back or modify the illuminator to reduce the frequency of the comet. I can't find the thread right now but one AVS builder made a very clever modification to add a second blanking disk that made the comet appear far less often..
Quote:
"#" drill!!! I didn't think anybody used # drills other than machine shops!
Doesn't every serious DIY HT builder have both # and letter drills? wink.gif Must be just me but I'm always using odd sized drills.
post #688 of 755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

I can't find the thread right now but one AVS builder made a very clever modification to add a second blanking disk that made the comet appear far less often..

This is it: StockMonkey2000's Desert Sunset build, direct link to the FOSI modification: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1314492/desert-sunset-theater-build/330#post_21122157
post #689 of 755
Thread Starter 
I was reading that exact same thread yesterday. I want the same thing but unfortunately I'm not talented enough to make my own gears. eek.gif if you actually have that kind of talent I'd sure be willing to chat about paying for a second gear while you make your own. If you find out that you don't need a degree in Mech E please let me know.

It turns out only one of my custom MA shelves arrived yesterday. My 6B SST2 happily rests in my rack finally but that means no 11.4 fun quite yet. I still need to mount my other two Bryston 4B SST2 amps
post #690 of 755
Thread Starter 
One of my Bryston shelves arrived and it was installed with my massive 6B SST2 connected and installed as well. I still have my Parasound amp already installed (bottom part of photo) that will be powering the side and rear surrounds but for the weekend it powered some of the front channels ( wides, heights) while the Bryston handled the Left/Center/Right action. I had a little time to play with Neo X and I like it a lot. It's more of a evolution than revolution but I won't be going back to my old 7.1 system ever again. A person who never experienced my theater before sat for a quick demo and she said "this is much better than the real theaters". I agree. biggrin.gif

Photo of the rack to the right of the main entrance to the theater, it's still missing my two Bryston 4B SST2's that will occupy the large open space when my final two MA shelves arrive:



Photo of what you see on both sides as you enter my theater:

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