Official Sony HX850 Owner's Thread (46HX850, 55HX850) - Page 56

Have u watched a full movie in the dark? Higher backlights can be tolerable in darkness but will eventually cause eye strain. Also if you head to the theater ull start to realize how dim the picture is haha. I had the 850 and preferred 5/10 for backlight in all environments. Im not big on watching in complete darkness though.

I'd say minimal backlit in a full dark room does indeed seem "too dark but 5 might be too high for me. I guess it's trying to get the best compromise. Good shadow details with higher backlit but you don't want it too high or else your black starts to look gray/bluish. To my eye, 5 is a bit too bright, espicially on light scenes where in a dark room, you get he feeling your eyes is getting tired because of the light output. We are all made different though.

To me, a backlit of 3 is a good compromise where my blacks are still very black and I get more details in shadows.

Sad news. The hx850 replacement, kdl55w900a has a bigger price tag than the 850! 3k for an edge lit set! Really Sony!?

Picture will be awesome though

You would hope at that price tag for just a 55. I don't think if will even come close to your new 55HX950 though. I think the W900 will be only a marginal improvement over the HX850 as it is.

Well the HX850 holds itself very well against the HX950 with more haloing.

; )

I think the appeal of the 850 was performance for the dollar, but with only a $200 separation between the W900 and 55hx950, it seems like an odd price point. How much was the 55HX850 when it debuted?

Agreed Aaron.

Sorry for repeating my previos questions again, but does anyone know the following?:

- what is the difference between the motionflow settings (I.e. What does the tv actually do)?

- same goes for the film mode one (I.e. Auto 1 auto 2)

- what does SBM do

I could only find speculations on these 3 items. Sony is keeping it secret I guess...

Although SonyStyle has the pre-order price set at $3K for now, B&H still shows the price as $2798. And I believe Sony is including two pairs of 3D glasses with their 2013 top-of-the-line models.

If I recall correctly, the 55HX850 debuted at $2600. And I suspect new 55HX950's will be as hard to find by the time the w900a hits the stores as the HX929's are now.

Sad thing is with Sony's new tv's they are going Passive 3D which stinks to me.

I personally don't like 3D full stop lol

The w900a is active. It also includes 4 pairs of glasses. The 802 is passive.

How you getting on with your calibration? I tried my WOW disc today and couldn't get the contrast right (the local dimming probably dosen't help) in the end the contrast was way up to max setting. In the end I found my intial settings were not that far away but i'm still tweaking, one day i'm happy with the picture then the next day I change it again (not by much though) is this normal??

I would imagine that these sets wont be easy to calibrate with all the processing going on etc......

Can you confirm the 4 pairs? CES info said 2.

W900 is also edge lit using quantum dot...wonder how that will translate in PQ

I still haven´t been able to do the calibration yet but when I do I'll also check the contrast with the spears ans munsil calibration disc. The one thing I'm not sure is what should be correct, doing the calibration with local dimming ON or do it with local dimming OFF. I have consulted this question with the Disney WOW Producer - Richard J. Casey on the official forum http://www.avsforum.com/t/1303667/disneys-wow-world-of-wonder-blu-ray-official-avsforum-review/510 , but he didn´t give me a direct answer. For what he told me I deduced that LD should be ON when doing the calibration. what he did told me is that all the processing futures should be OFF during the calibration (like motionflow, DRC, Smooth gradient, etc). If you have some questions regarding the contrast pattern feel free to ask him directly on the forum, he usually answer on a weekly basis.

For basic calibration you should turn off all processing whatsoever incl. local dimming etc because it might (and will) interfere with your adjustments.
Additionally you should do the settings not only for that specific input but in general or you have to redo this for each and every input used.

Clear does a 3:2 pull down. Standard adds more smoothing to the picture and the one above that, I'm not sure what Sony calls it, creates even more smoothing (SOE).
Auto 1 is what you should have it on with moitonflow on standard or the one directly above standard. Auto 2, I believe, decreases the SOE but I'm not 100%. (24p)
I'm not sure what SBM is. Where is it located in the Menu System?

For 1080i try standard with auto2 or clear with auto2. Auto1 makes movies on some channels studder

SBM is in the video input settings (home -> display -> ...), just under the Colour Matrix and HDMI Dynamic Range menus
Edited by jpeezay - 2/21/13 at 1:44pm

From what I can gather and have read up (on several reviews) the local dimming is still enabled to some extent even when turned off......

Only on a black screen after 7 seco ds or so.

Just curious do most of you if your gamers that is play games on the same setting you watch movies on?

I like to play xbox360 and ps3 in the same settings Ihave for blu-ray (movies) which is cinema 1 scene, but other people like to play games on the video game scene because they feel the lag is considerably reduced. Personally i prefer how my games look on cinema and don´t feel any intrusive lag what so ever. Try both scenes with diferent games and choose the one that you like the best.

I have to play in game scene myself. The input lag introduced by the other mode is just not playable. You might get away with it with single player game that don't require immediate action (rpg comes to mind) but if you play FPS, sports game or action games (platformer comes to mind) you will want to play in game mode.

To keep input lag to a minimum, I have all setting to off except dynamic led that I have on low or standard to keep the nice black and hide some of my flashlighting. Dynamic led seem to not introduce a lot of input lag.

I still think it produce an great picture myself. You can still tweak gamma, colors, backlit, etc to your liking. Absolutely have to keep cine motion and motion flow to off as they introduce a lot of input lag.

The other advantage to the game scene us that it allows the tv to be chroma 4:4:4 which allows for better color us sampling, making details and text to deploy with more precision.
Edited by Guibs - 2/21/13 at 7:07pm

1) what motionflow does is insert aditional frames so that moving images AKA the picture may look more fluid. Because this insertion create aditional frames that are not in the original feed, a Soap Opera Efect(SOE) is created. This SOE alter how you see the feed, so movies sometimes lose that film quality and thus look like you seeing "Days of our lives" instead. Some people like this look some pleople don't (I personally don´t like it). Now to the motionflow options: smooth and standard will make the SOE to be very apparent and strong, clear and clear plus will create a more tolerable SOE but will darken the picture (this two settings insert aditional black frames to the equation), and off will give you the feed intact as send by your blu-ray, xbox, ps3, dvd player or cable box.

2) What film mode does is a process call 3:2 pulldown that convert the 24 frames per second of film to the 30 frames that NTCS television uses. Auto 1 will aply the process with aditional procesing in order to make the picture better, Auto 2 will only aply the process period.

3) Super Bit Mapping (SBM) is related to the capacity of the tv for rendering colors.

4) My two cents: for blu-ray leave motionflow off, for cable you can experiment wit clear or clear plus along with film mode on Auto 1 ( THIS COMBINATION REDUCES THE SOE TO MINIMUM), for games is a question of taste (I leave it off). SBM shoul be left in the OFF position because it will only mess up the almost perfect color calibration of the cinema 1 setting.

Hope it helps you.
Edited by fegam2 - 2/21/13 at 7:02pm

Precisely, which is going to make accurate calibration (using test disc's) i.e brightness/pluge levels etc........very difficult!

Not at all as they are not full black screens

I'm curious Guibs on the game scene mode what do you use game-standard or game-original? and what is the difference between the two?