I've lived with the 90 for just over a week now, and (as mentioned before) am coming from a Mitsubishi WD-73831 (73" DLP).
I'm impressed with this set!
It's all that it's advertised to be, and the shop we got it from has already kicked in the price protection, and refunded $141 when they lowered the price a few days after I ordered it.
So those of you that are waiting will probably see better deals on this set over the next several months, before it bellies out.
I saw that there are a lot of the places that are currently offering it for south of $7K.
I tried a few of them (after they passed the on-line reviews I searched, and were listed with the BBB as A-rated) but the prices were either vapor-prices, or they add-on charges for things ...... like shipping with a shipper that will stay while you do a complete unpack and power on test, or for a warrantee (if not US warranted).
So ... I don't mean to get into pricing, as much as I include this to embolden those of you that are waiting for prices to drop (they are and probably will continue to get closer to the $6K or lower threshold) and to caution you to use the same pragmatic approach that you would if buying a camera/computer via the on-line discount houses.
Get the deails of the delivery and just what you can do before sending the delivery people on their way, in writing.
You absolutely need to do a power-on inspection before you sign anything.
This sounds easy to do, but due to the 90's size and more importantly ........ the way the 90" is packaged in the carton, it requires you to make a work table out of the carton to rest the set on while you install the base, so you can tip it upright and have access to the IR eye for the remote.
And 'that's' needed because you need to run through the initialization set-up before you can do the "power-on test" which needs to go to a TV channel with noise/snow that lights up the screen so you can be sure there are no hairline cracks in the display, that may not show up when the TV's input is an HDMI source (and the screen remains dark).
Until you do the initialization the side buttons (other than the power button) don't work, hence the need to be able to use the remote.
This takes more than just a few minutes, but my wife and I handled it ourselves (we are both in our 60's) although the driver was not happy with the delay at all.
The shop I bought it from has a very defined delivery policy, and requires you to go through a prescribed un-packing and power on test/check list, that they email you and provide via a link, for you to accomplish 'before' you sign off with the shipper.
This protects both them and you.
The particular shop I bought from (supossedly) only uses shippers that are fully in sync with this, bt once again ........ the fellow that delivered pir set was not at all happy about my insistance on following the check list, at all.
This might have been because I live up in the Sierra mountains, and the last leg was a local shipper ...... vs what might be the norm for a regular "city delivery". (????)
One of the highly touted, well reviewed, and BBB A-rated "back east" shops that we also tried, got the advertised delivered price up to Just over $8K, to have the same degree of "protected delivery", so ......... if you buy from one of the these shops, make sure you are getting what you think you are, and not a refurb, used or (a few days after making the order) a call from their sales department saying that you need to buy special insurance and the extended warranty because the set is not US warranted.
Believe me ......... it can be just like trying to buy a camera or computer from most of these "lowest price" shops.
But .... you 'can' still find really good deals on factory sealed, US warranted, delivered with power on inspections ....... but you are well advised to get it all in writing before you seal the deal.
OK ....... enough of that, now the set itself.
As a LED/LCD set it's just amazing to watch, with a clear, bright picture that has brilliant whites and and very black blacks.
At 90" it's just more of everything!!
But, as a with all big sets, it 'is' a double edged sword.
You see a 'huge' amount of detail ....... which means you see a lot more of 'all' the things that are hidden by a smaller screen.
The good .......... you see everything.
The bad ............. you see everything.
If watching a source that has motion blur and/or pixelization, you will see motion blur and pixelization.
There is no hiding that on a screen of this size with a TV that has 2K resolution ......... unless you do something to hide it (like soften the focus, contrast and etc.) but doing that will also hide the amazing detail that the set provides.
But with a well produced HD source (that over the past few years is more and more becoming the norm) the PQ is amazing.
To me ..... the things you can see are worth any of the drawbacks that any large screen is going to disclose.
The accurate reproduction of: luminescent surfaces, the texture of fabrics, the fine grain of wood and small scratches, decay of painted surfaces, and many other details that are simply lost in smaller screens, is where the 90 really shines.
It's ability to provide a rich, bright picture with such stunning detail makes up for any minor drawbacks it might have.
It is simply providing the best TV viewing that I have ever seen, including the older (short lived) high contrast analog Vision One CRT and Faroudja processed systems, that cost as much as $70K in the early 2000's.
As soon as I fired it up for actual viewing, I made a few minor adjustments to it (contrast was almost all the way up, and color was a couple of numbers too high, with the tint a number too much to the red, and with the sharpness at mid range I felt it was too soft by about 3 counts).
Once I tweaked those settings it looked pretty darn good.
Then I tried Suzook's settings that Fastslappy posted, and it was even further improved ....... not by as much as what my initial setting changes made (it was the old 80-20 rule) but subtle increase in overall performance was definately achieved.
The contrast works on the 90 like any other contrast, but the brightness works like a 'black level' adjust, with backlight level acting like a brightness control.
Once doing the advanced settings to mirror Suzook's, I changed the film mode back to on, and to 'advanced 7', active contrast to on, and refresh to 120Hz high.
This is providing the best flesh tones, true colors and overall PQ to my eye ........ which is admittedly probably not as discerning as many of the readers here with younger and better eyes.
Over the week I've had it I also noticed something that made a real improvement for my environment.
The room that the 90" is in is 3 stories tall with 2 story floor to ceiling windows in the wall on the left side of the set.
This is a north facing wall so it only gets indirect sun light, but still ........ it is pretty bright.
This LED set has no problems with the indirect lighting (that doesn't reflect off the screen, just brightens the room) and provides clear rich and detailed picture.
But it brings up the point of the best use/setting of OPC for my room.
I sort of chased the PQ during the day and then again at night.
The fix to this was simply 'narrowing' the range of the OPC, so I would have the same "look" when the room was both light and dark.
While on the subject of room/ambient lighting, the windows I mentioned are not a problem, but if lamps behind my sitting area are on in an otherwise dark room, it does show up as annoying bright spots reflected in the screen.
So, although in daylight the off axis ambient light is not an issue, in a darkened room any light that is reflected off the screen 'is' a pretty big distraction.
The most important thing I've found (so far) is to (obviously) use decent source material and make the adjustments so it looks right, then work the OPC and (more importantly) narrow it's range, so that look 'stays' the same in a bright or dim room.
I found that if I chased trying to make a less than perfect production look good, I just made a well produced source look worse, as it the case with any big screen.
But ....... it is the easiest set to get looking right without calibration, that I have set up.
I do see some color drop off when moving off axis.
IOW: the best seating is directly in front of the 90.
If you are seated outside the side edges of the set, and are closer than ~12 feet, you will see the color 'noticeably' fade a bit as you move farther from directly in front of the set and beyond it's side edges.
To me that 'is' a pretty narrow FOV for optimum viewing, although it's not a factor for us with our seating (we are a minimum of 15ft away from the center of the 90's screen in all our seats).
The amount of soap opera effect is proportional to the 90's size.
I see the same thing in my smaller 2K sets, but to a proportionally less degree.
It can be mitigated by adjusting things that (IMHO) detract from the PQ more than the SOE does.
Besides ......... 'for us' it's something that quickly becomes unnoticed as we actually watch the programming.
But once again ........ it is there and more prominet in this set ....... and is (IMHO) admittedly a negative thing.
I had no ghosting/cross talk at all while watching in the 3D mode.
3D performance was amazing and totally dependant on the quality of the production.
While watching a nature documentary on elephants in Africa on DTV's 3Net channel, when our dogs passed in front of the set ..... it actually appeared that they were in the bushes between us and the elephants!
If watching something produced well, like that or a BD like Avatar 3D ....... it's quite an awesome experience!
But, if looking at some of the DTV's 3Net channel 'less quality' stuff ....... that appears to have been converted from 2D to 3D .......... then "not so much".
I remember when HD was going through a similar time and it took the production people a while to get competent in making HD programming ....... especially (my pet peeve) the proper handling the LFE audio channel so my chair shaker (Buttkickers) system works right.
That end of things is still a hit or miss thing, and almost never right from the independent studios.
This same type of ...... "quality 3D production meaning a good 3D viewing experience" ....... is most apparent on ESPN3D.
Sometimes it's really good, and you are dodging basketballs, and other times you just want to rip your eyes out because it's just too difficult to watch as the foreground and background go in and out of focus!
The glasses that come with the 90 are the Sharp AN3DG20B, and 'evidently' are the upgrade to the heavier (???) AN3DG30.
I found that the smaller nose rest was not enough to keep the mold line in the plastic frame of the glasses' nose arch area from becoming uncomfortable, and soon swapped them out for the included larger nose rests which keep the plastic of the glasses off the bridge of your nose.
Overall, they are comfortable enough to wear for a full feature length movie, and my wife who wears glasses under them didn't have any complaints.
They are very tolerant of leaning your head back in a recliner, and even tilting them to either side by quite a bit did not seem to affect their performance.
I wish they had a hard case for them, but the cloth bag is better than nothing.
I bought two more sets form Amazon and a 4 port USB wall charger (even though the instructions say to use the TV's USB). I did use the special USB cables that come with the glasses, and they charged up just fine.
3D summary ........ it's all good, and although not my main reason for getting this set, I suspect that the future will have me even more glad I have it.
There are some Apps for both apple devices and droid devices, to remote control the TV via your wifi.
I downloaded the one from Sharp for my Xoom Droind pad, and when I used it it caused the front power/3D lamp to remain on in the white mode at all times (woud neve turn off, even with the set turned off).
So I got to try out the Sharp customer service, and they were most helpful.
We had to do a "hard reset" to fix it, which involved unplugging the set, then holding two of the side buttons at the same time and re-plugging the TV back in, then a few more "secrete button combinations" to get to a screen that reported the error, but they got me back to normal operation with clear and easy to follow directions.
So ......... once you have your settings where you want them, be sure to write them down and be very careful using Apps running on your smart-phone, iPad touch or tablet ...... even if they are from Sharp, because they just might cause some problems.
On a similar subject, I (having not yet learned my lesson with the Apps thing) also read that the Logitech K400 wireless keyboard/touchpad would work by just plugging in the USB dongle to a smaller version of the Sharp LED/LCD TV, and so I gave it a try.
The $25 keypad did in fact work for the browser and for entering text data into any of the places that the 90 called for it in it's built in Apps.
But ........ when I started to use it to control YouTube video screen size through the 90's web browser
, it didn't like it at all.
I suspect that this might be because when looking at videos through the 90's YouTube App it is not also looking for media on the USB port, but if using the 90's browser to go to YouTube, it might possibly be polling the USB port for video, and that caused it to get temporarily hosed up.
In any case, the TV's response to it's remote got very sluggish and then finally locked up, and would not respond to any remote commands for a short time.
I don't really know what fixed it ......... maybe it was just time alone to clear itself, or the 3-4 power off/on cycles I did, but it did recover on it's own without the need for a soft or hard reset.
So I learned my lesson, and will use the keyboard to control my laptop which I will port over to the 90 on one of the HDMI ports and then send the audio over to my AVR.
I hope to have pictures and videos of different resolution, different sources, in both light and dark room, with and without lamps on behind the seating area, and post them.
This might take me a while.
I'm sorta busy being blown away by this thing!! Edited by Flyer91 - 3/17/13 at 3:18pm